What did you do today to your 3/S?

I tried to call Penske when I moved 2 years ago.

Long story short, I had reserved a Uhaul truck 2 weeks in advance with a place I usually get from. The DAY OF the move the place calls me and says the truck that was supposed to be back to the day before still wasn't back. We already had people on their way over to help load.

I started calling other Uhaul places and no one had a truck available. I called Penske and they wanted $126 PLUS .99 cents a mile. I basically went off on the CSR and told them they were robbing people for that price and she offered no additional assistance.

I finally found a truck WAY further away, but Uhaul said they would credit me for the additional mileage. On my way there another Uhaul place that was closer called me because he just had a cancellation.

I looked at renting a Uhaul trailer to tow the car for NG. All in all it would have cost me almost $700 for the week! I just went out and bought a brand new trailer. Even if I only used it for NG and then turned around and sold it it would have been money saved over renting it from Uhaul...LOL

When we moved I rented the largest truck Uhaul had. My god I thought the transmission was going to fall out each time the damn transmission shifted. That and the thing was almost redlined going 55 mph... Their trucks are junk and not maintained at all!

I had to rent a Budget truck for work once. I have to say it was one of the nicest trucks I've ever been in. The only thing that sucked was it had a governor on it so I had to watch my speed when ramping up for big hills.

Drove the car to work this morning. Ran over a plastic bag on the way which managed to wrap itself around the driveshaft and make wonderful noises for about half the drive.

On the bright side the steering wheel spacer works great and I think the finished product looks pretty good too:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...psde1sgo9b.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps684dsgv0.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...psryjaef0q.jpg

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Originally Posted by 95gto

Drove the car to work this morning. Ran over a plastic bag on the way which managed to wrap itself around the driveshaft and make wonderful noises for about half the drive.

On the bright side the steering wheel spacer works great and I think the finished product looks pretty good too:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...psde1sgo9b.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps684dsgv0.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...psryjaef0q.jpg

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That does look really nice, I wonder if there are some paddle shifters that would fit your adapter?

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump

That does look really nice, I wonder if there are some paddle shifters that would fit your adapter?

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I'm sure there would be something on the market that would work, the only requirement would be that the mounting method would have to clear the hub adapter for the wheel (for anyone familiar with the EVO III wheel conversion, this spacer literally just spaces out the hub adapter that comes with the wheel from the body of the wheel itself). You would probably want paddle shifters mounted off of the wheel itself though, so they are closer to your hands. I love the improved driving position this gives me but the stalks require you to reach for them now.

I've used Penske for 2 cross country moves. Both times it was around $1500-$1600 for a 26' truck and trailer, after all the discounts I could find.

I dig the spacer cover thingermajobber

Went from junk yellow headlights to this

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...605_211712.jpg

Sanded all the factory clearcoat off, polished, 2 coats of premium PPG clearcoat. Need to wetsand and polish a final time. They look soooo much better.

Swapped in a welded center diff Friday. Stress tested it last night. It passed:D Ran errands around town with it today. One race.....with my wastegate dump tube when it came off and raced me down the road! Time for lock-tite and and/or through bolts w/lock nuts. (Living the 4cyl, no balance shafts, solid mtr mount Life)

How bad is the 4G really without the balance shaft? My cousin is going to eliminate his in the coming months when he does a few other needed things.

Very noticeable on the 2.4 with solid mounts. 2.0 should be less. I also have a monster side exit exhaust that adds some vibration. And big kelford cams. It all adds up to some vibes, shakes and rattles unless you are wide open. Then it all makes sense and everything is right in the world:)

Stock cams and full exhaust, it vibrated and rattled but seemed much tamer. Could be perception.

2.4 with balance shafts...purred.

That's kind of what I figured and had read elsewhere, just was wanting firsthand experience. I think he plans on sticking with stock mounts so it shouldn't be unbearable. He's been in my Stealth with the solid mounts so I am sure he will be able to deal with a balance shaft deleted 4G63

Got these mounted on a new set of AMR's

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...606_135146.jpg

Headlights finished. Look pretty good. Not 100% like new but I havent hit them with a DA and compound.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...606_121343.jpg

Slapped the EVO MAF and catalytic converter back on and passed smog testing. She measured 58 ppm HC at idle where 100 is the limit and 20 ppm HC at 2500 rpm where the limit is 130. So plenty of margin with just the main cat and no precats. I almost went with the Z06 + MAFT but it doesn't have the CARB certification like the K&N on my EVO MAF has. May have been fine though I didn't have it running right yet.

Now back on jackstands to swap the test pipe back in :)

Had an exhaust leak that was driving me nuts on the down-pipe. ordered new gaskets, got them in and still leaking. I couldn't figure out where it was coming from.... Ended up taping off one side of the exhaust and sticking the shop vac on blow into the other side. Pressurize the system and found the leak spraying soapy water on the connections.

https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dc&oe=55EA568C

Also got he rear end all back together after doing some painting and re-tinting the rear tail lights. I used a satin clear on the lights afterwords to dull them down to match the finish of the car. Need to do the same to the reflectors red bar.

https://scontent-atl1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...90&oe=563339C1

Took her out for a test drive and the damn Ac/Alt pulley is squealing. So I need to order a new one. I have fought with that old one long enough so it's time to bite the button and drop the $120 for a new one.

Once the new pulley gets here I'm also going to set the adjustable cam gears back to zero. On the test drive the car cruised like shit. Almost stalled in some gears if the RPM's got under like 3k and the engine is just really choppy until about 3500-4k. She pulls great through just horrible and cruising. I'm just not about to try and drive it like that at NG in a couple weeks...

Also note swapping out the cams and adding in the adjustable cam gears also did NOT fix my decel exhaust popping issue.... So I have no clue what is causing it. Timing is dead on, new plugs and coil pack. IDK So you can call me Poppy at NG!!

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Also note swapping out the cams and adding in the adjustable cam gears also did NOT fix my decel exhaust popping issue.... So I have no clue what is causing it. Timing is dead on, new plugs and coil pack. IDK So you can call me Poppy at NG!!

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Wouldn't exhaust popping on decel generally indicate too much fuel being dumped at that point? Between that and stalling out at cruising, definitely sounds like some kind of boost leak to me. Assuming you have a wideband hooked up and are monitoring AFRs?

Did a boost leak check. All good. No leaks. Running stock ECU, Stock Injectors, Stock Turbo's. Decel runs the AFR's into the 18+ The stalling on cruising didn't start happening until the adjustable cam install set to +3 -1. For instance I used to be able to run in third gear down to almost 2500 RPM's just engine braking it while slowing down. I have a lot of turns and hills out by my house so I usually let the engine slow me down. Now doing the same thing the engine shakes almost like that feeling it's about to stall. Kind of hard to explain. So I have to up shift. 3rd gear decel seems to be the worst for the exhaust popping. rarely happens in 4th.

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Did a boost leak check. All good. No leaks. Running stock ECU, Stock Injectors, Stock Turbo's. Decel runs the AFR's into the 18+ The stalling on cruising didn't start happening until the adjustable cam install set to +3 -1. For instance I used to be able to run in third gear down to almost 2500 RPM's just engine braking it while slowing down. I have a lot of turns and hills out by my house so I usually let the engine slow me down. Now doing the same thing the engine shakes almost like that feeling it's about to stall. Kind of hard to explain. So I have to up shift. 3rd gear decel seems to be the worst for the exhaust popping. rarely happens in 4th.

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Stupid questions of course ( not to insult your intelligence however) but the +1 -3 settings are the ones normally used (Not -1, +3) and the 3SX cam gears are adjusted kind of backwards to most other aftermarket cam gears (such that they have their own page on how to do it.) Throw in that there have been manufacturing issues before (including zero not being zero) and I'd be a bit leery. Mine are getting actually degreed in with a degree wheel, but just making sure that you're up to date on all that jazz. Beyond that, switching back to OEM cam gears *should* have fixed it. Can't imagine what may have happened otherwise to throw it off.

Yeah, got the numbers backward, it's late. These are Fidenza gears and I verified that Zero on them is True Zero so that's good.

Also worked with Chris on getting them set properly. I initially went with a pic of the 3sx cam gears to set them, well didn't even think about it but the 3sx ones have their marking inside the same gear and Fidenza's are marked on the outer portion of the gear. So setting mine initially to the 3sx ones was completely backwards...:facepalm:

My block and heads are completely stock. No machine work to the heads or decking was done to them. So I never degreed them. For now I'm just going to move them all back to zero and see how it runs. Should have it all done in the next couple days.

I had decel exhaust popping last spring but it was because my TPS went bad. It wouldn't read low enough to put my car into decel fuel cut. However your wideband being 18 means it is probably not that.

Got this today.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...ea4c9ea350.jpg

Need to replace my broken power antenna.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

I

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Yeah, got the numbers backward, it's late. These are Fidenza gears and I verified that Zero on them is True Zero so that's good.

Also worked with Chris on getting them set properly. I initially went with a pic of the 3sx cam gears to set them, well didn't even think about it but the 3sx ones have their marking inside the same gear and Fidenza's are marked on the outer portion of the gear. So setting mine initially to the 3sx ones was completely backwards...:facepalm:

My block and heads are completely stock. No machine work to the heads or decking was done to them. So I never degreed them. For now I'm just going to move them all back to zero and see how it runs. Should have it all done in the next couple days.

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The only way to verify zero is actually zero is with a degree wheel, solid lifter, dial gauge, and a piston stop.

That comment was in regards to the findings made a year or so ago about certain 3sx and some Fidenza cam gears being a couple degrees off from the start. I verified the ones I have are not off by matching them up to a stock cam gear and ensuring the zero mark matches up to the stock cam gears, which they do.

Got my rear mud guards installed!! and while I was in there with the wheels off, I inspected the pads and cleaned up and re-lubed the calipers with Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant.

http://i.imgur.com/Cutling.jpg

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

That comment was in regards to the findings made a year or so ago about certain 3sx and some Fidenza cam gears being a couple degrees off from the start. I verified the ones I have are not off by matching them up to a stock cam gear and ensuring the zero mark matches up to the stock cam gears, which they do.

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The cams still aren't "zero" on your engine unless you degree them. If they are degreed it actually doesn't matter if you have ones marked correctly or incorrectly as the cams will be set correctly through the degreeing process regardless.

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

The cams still aren't "zero" on your engine unless you degree them. If they are degreed it actually doesn't matter if you have ones marked correctly or incorrectly as the cams will be set correctly through the degreeing process regardless.

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Are you referring to the actual cams or the Cam gears?? I'm taking about the cam gears... They are exactly the same stock vs adjustable and the zero mark used for setting timing is the exact same place on both. So setting my adjustable back to zero would be the same as swapping the stock cam gears back onto the car.

Assuming you were able to get them to match stock cam gears within a degree or less does not mean your cams are where they are intended to be if you have done any of the following: different cams, resurface block, resurface head, different HG.

Adjustable cam gears are first and foremost to set the cams to where the manufacturer intended (OEM or cam card of aftermarket) and second to adjust the opening/closing timing and overlap to suit your mods and desired powerband.

This is accomplished with a piston stop, degree wheel, dial indicator and solid lifter. Takes a little time but worth it. Especially on a DOHC V engine with two sets of cams.

Stock cams, Stock heads and block. No surface work done to either. Stock OEM Head gasket. So the zero mark on my Adj cam gears should be in theory the same as what my stock cams have. or am I missing something....

Should be good.....So why not run stock cam gears?

For those who may have missed it I updated my revival thread yesterday. I got the car started and moved under it's own power. It's nothing exciting, but I posted a video of it running in my thread.

Today, I planted grass where the car sat for the last 2 years. I wasn't able to get anything else done to the car though. I had to get some running done in town, then when I got home I did some work around the house while I waited for my brother to drop my niece and nephew off. I've been keeping them entertained since they got here.

Doubt I'll get anything done tomorrow either, but hoping to make some sort of progress over the next few days.

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Originally Posted by familyMAN

Should be good.....So why not run stock cam gears?

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Had them lying around a few years now and figured might as well drop them in. Figured why not give the whole +1 -3 settings a go... Not so good on my car.

I just got done readjusting them and did a test. Set the exhaust back to zero and the intake to +1.. Took it for a spin and DAMN!!! Pulls like a Raped Ape at 8psi!!! Nice smooth cruising and the exhaust pop is very very minor now. So I'm going to stick with those settings.

Just to note too as I never mentioned it. The engine is a stock TT 2 bolt, the cams are 1st gen TT cams and the heads are N/A heads. When I built this motor I couldn't find decent TT heads and got these for a steal. So maybe that has something to do with it. IDK. But she is running great now and that is all that matters to me... :)

With the rear off off the jackstands, I was able to get the hatch re-wired for the sound system now without the extra weight of two batteries

http://i.imgur.com/3daz0ZY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HaTHbyE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0OmjKYB.jpg

This will support the pair of Arc Audio Amps I will be getting plus the extras like a sound processor.

Tore down the old heads that have bent valves. Found all the intake valves guides are cracked.

Trying to decide what I want to do with the heads.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...6eb06fbbf9.jpg

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Well not today but Sunday I changed my trans oil and motor oil getting ready for NG.

Yesterday I ordered tires and fucked with the wiring to my front O2 sensor. Seems to be working OK now.

I did this Saturday, but I finally had non-humid enough weather to get some beadblasting done on my replacement front crossmember & battery tray.

Now I'm just filling some pitting on the tray & plan to hopefully get the other crossmembers & front anti-sway bar blasted so I can drop them off at the powder coater's very soon.

I bought my car a friend to share the garage with:)

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2elighep.jpg

Nice!

More pics and info plz

Nice grab!!

-John

It's a 133k mile 94 rx7 with the Popular Equipment upgrade. I think that just means it has the front lip, sunroof, and leather seats. It has blown coolant seals. I plan on pulling the motor and transmission anyways to do an LS2 swap. That's going to take a little while for me to save up the funds to do so. I may post some of my extra 3000gt parts I've been hoarding for myself to help get me there faster. I'll have the car tomorrow morning. I paid my friends dad to go get it for me down in Virginia. He should be at the guys house right now.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1sxi3uon.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9x2r9vsl.jpg