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Put a bleed hole in the $10 MBC. Works even better now...
Did some driving around and hit fuel cut as it's cooler than when I first set the mbc, had to turn the boost down. (Hit 17-18lbs)
IDC was logged at 107%. No knock though.
Time to start saving up for the first round of upgrades.
First set of poly rear bushes have been drilled, working on the center pin fitment a bit more. Center pin material either needs to be reamed out slightly, or the bolts on the body side need to be smoothed a bit. Wire wheel should take care of that for cleaning up corrosion.
I got the hood all prepped for paint and sprayed it yesterday. Today I will be sanding it back down and spraying it again...WTF!!
I'm thinking the gauge on my gun is messed up and the pressure was too high. Dry streaks all over and textured like rhino liner as the paint was drying in the air. Sadly I'm out of paint now so have to head to Napa and get another gallon. I only need about a quart but they only sell it in gallons. Also getting a new regulator to for the gun.
Well..Getting this rear subframe back on by myself is a pain in the ass. The poly has very little give and I sized the center pins to be pretty much exactly spot on so that there wouldn't be any slop in them when hitting the gas or the brake. So need to get it lined up absolutely PERFECTLY to get all four on there. Still need to make new metal washers to go above and underneath.
May just settle for getting the front wheel hubs back in and the front wheels back on the car.
I feel your pain there, it's a pain in the ass.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
And its on! Needed to just get someone else to work the jack while I positioned everything.
Still need to make new poly and metal spacers for above and below the bushings, but think this will be fine for getting it on the trailer. Need new nuts for the bolts, but not standard pitch for their size. Going to have to take this hardware back to work and swap it out. Same for the front wheel hubs. What I picked up is just too coarse thread. :(
Oh well. Trying to figure out if I want to drive over there now and get the hardware or just call it a day at this point.
Menard's usually has odd thread pitch bolts here... I've found 90% of what I need there.
Eh, just too lazy to take the hub assembly in. And obviously can't take the whole shell. We have various threads, I just assumed standard threading for these applications.
1.25 pitch if I remember correctly.
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Well this is a thing now. Tomorrow morning I'll work on getting the hardware for the front and then I can put the car back on the ground.
Installed axles, mounted up hubs, filled radiator, adjusted clutch, SHE IS ALIVE!!!
13t's, SCE oil pan, Maximal performance oil cooler, new custom southbend clutch all installed in the last month or so, first startup was today. MAYBE an exhaust leak on the rear turbo but thats about it. SO HAPPY. Want to hit up a track day and autocross before I leave for NG on the 18th, gotta get some miles on her and make sure shes reliable, should be :)
^ You easily have one of the most practical approaches at modding your car than anyone I have ever seen. It is so purpose built and thought out, I love it!
I'm probably the slowest person to ever upgrade their turbos ever. Like 5 years with the 9b's it was torture!
Thought: any reason to make adjustable rear upper and lower control arms?
I know uppers should be all that's necessary to adjust for lowering, just know that my ball joints need to be replaced on the lowers and not sure what options we have for that.
I snagged me up a set of PTE 550cc Injectors on ebay for $60.... :p I'll get them cleaned and rebuilt and they should work great with the 13G's I'll be putting in later on.
Well, did quite a bit of searching, there's a lot of conflicting information on the rear ball joint replacement for the lower arm as far as what will and won't work. I'll likely just have to buy some and see what I can find out. Likely find/make a replacement bushing as well. Boo.
Making adjustable lowers is an option, however would require fabricating some kind of adjustable bracket for the sway bar to attach to such that the tube can still be rotated and adjusted as necessary but the sway bar can still be mounted. Not sure it's worth the trouble. Then again, $200 each for new rear lower arms is flipping pricey. Making some kind of bracket to be welded to the rear trailing arm instead would be a bit tedious I think. And need to be spot on between the two sides for the sway bar to do its job properly. Bah humbug.
I replaced the rear lca ball joint during my resto. Not sure of the part number but I will look for it. I got the info from one of the threads on the other site.
Edit: Moog K9372
Cussed it out, punched it, cussed it out, and it faught back by cutting my hand and making my life difficult lol. Then, at the end, I left the hatch open not thinking it would be a problem and the garage door hinge sliced it up lol. Thankfully I didn't care about the hatch anyway.
Damn cars, love em but hate em
I did to my 3S today.... 0-60 in 2.85 on damp ground with wheel spin and pedaling it in 1st. I love auto launches.....very much.
AWD burnout and it not on film! FAIL! lol
Nicely done
Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Yeah, had to abort the 1st run. All 4 went for a spin. Let off and back in and the spun again. That would've been a good vid, if you could see me sawing at the wheel of a lazy manual steering rack trying to keep it pointed straight!
Broke it.
:(
What happened
waxed it
Changing rear wheel bearings in the green vr4, left side stub axle was seized in there and required a sledge hammer to free it, resulting in ruined threads on the end. Bench grinder and file saved the day.Quote:
Originally Posted by MDoe8
Rockauto also sent me unsealed inner bearings....
A gear puller does the trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
I couldn't find anything that my gear puller would hook to on the trailing arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by R/T93
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Car is now together enough to drag onto the trailer. It is literally just the barest minimums of bolts holding it together though as it will be torn down again once the move is complete.
Unfortunately found that I have some kind of damage to the unibody as no amount or shimming or adjusting of new fenders allows the passenger door to open without it catching the fender (albeit slightly.). It is incredibly depressing to find as I have now put a lot of time into modifying and cleaning the chassis up. A professional body shop may be able to remedy it, but...ugh.
In other news, now that the car is quasi mobile, I am going to start packing up the garage, spare parts room and all my tools. So probably not much going to be coming from me in terms of having done stuff for a while.
Scrubbed inside, outside, then I lifted her skirt and did underneath too.
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Wow nice and clean wheel-well! That's awesome!
Whoa! Where the hell you been?!Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Parker
Busy cleaning the wheel well obviously.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Well, thus far today I've started tossing stuff in the trash and cleaning up the garage. Most of my tools have been wiped off and cleaned up, my work bench is on it's way to having the various projects bagged and put away (or thrown away.)
So you're moving again?Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Yeah, it's for sure. Moving to Charlotte, NC. Rental truck is being booked for June 19th/20th. Actually going to post up in the TN section, try to have either have a small cook out or a meet up at the Bearden Beer Market either this Sunday evening or next Sunday evening.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
I gave the interior a wipe down & finally tackled rewiring my rear injector harness so I don't have any more broken connectors.
Finished up my steering wheel spacer last night and will be re-installing the evo VIII wheel tonight.
organized more of the garage and packed it up then had a spray bottle of oil remover break and spill all over my floor (and boxes) dropped a plethora of curse words, haven't been back in the garage since.
Did get a sweet deal from Penske. They price matched a Uhaul quote for a truck, but bumped me from a 15' truck to a 26' truck at the same price. Trailer is expensive though, going to try to talk them down.
Sounds like a win. I rented a 26' a couple years ago and it was expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
I'll need another here within the next month. Only going a half hour or so away though. Probably need two trips. :eek:
Well I got quotes via Budget and Uhaul. Budget's truck was cheaper (and unlimited mileage), Uhaul's trailer was cheaper. So I got Uhaul to price match the cost of hte Budget truck, plus their trailer. Then checked Penske prices and they have a lot of 26' trucks not being rented or whatever as the 26' was cheaper than the smaller 12 and 16s. So after that, I called and told them the prices I booked for the truck via Uhaul and Budget and that their 26' truck was cheaper than their 16' truck..They said they had more 26' sitting so they were just wanting them rented out and price matched with that and unlimited miles. Definitely recommend calling these guys with quotes as the internet isn't a great way to get the best price honestly.Quote:
Originally Posted by murphys_law