What did you do today to your 3/S?

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Originally Posted by 2fnloud

Show me some pictures of what you are doing, I might be interested in a set, like the idea of being able to grease them with the zerk fitting

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Be another week or so probably. Still working on the center pin set up. Have measurements written down somewhere of what dimensions I need, somewhere around a 19mm ID and a 22mm ID, both about 3" long IIRC, but have to dig it back out to order. After that, just drill baby drill. Seeing as how the rear end doesn't need to pivot or rotate, not going to shell these. OEM needed a shell because it was just rubber bonded to the metal, but should be fine without. So long as the poly stays lubricated, shouldn't have much for squeaking or anything. Definitely need better equipment if I'm going to try to produce more of these as it is rather time consuming.

Got the car back together from doing the Adjustable cam gear and matching cam swap. Started it up and it runs like absolute shit!! Sounds like a badly tuned and cammed V8... Figured I had the CAS wrong since I am a 1st gen motor. Turned it 180 and no difference. So now I have to put things on pause to figure out what the hell is wrong with the car.

on another lovely note, I had the car under a cover in the shop for the last month or so now since I was really only working on the motor every now and then. pulled the cover off to find this

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/IMG_2246.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/IMG_2247.JPG


It seems that the damn expandable foam I used to fill in the towers take a hell of a lot longer to cure than the week I let them sit before mounting them. So the foam forced it's way out under the tower and grew upward!! WTF. Now the fresh paint on the trunk is ruined as this shit does not come off and I probably won't be able to get the tower off now to respray any of it, like I have the time!!

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Got the car back together from doing the Adjustable cam gear and matching cam swap. Started it up and it runs like absolute shit!! Sounds like a badly tuned and cammed V8... Figured I had the CAS wrong since I am a 1st gen motor. Turned it 180 and no difference. So now I have to put things on pause to figure out what the hell is wrong with the car.

on another lovely note, I had the car under a cover in the shop for the last month or so now since I was really only working on the motor every now and then. pulled the cover off to find this

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/IMG_2246.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpi...2/IMG_2247.JPG


It seems that the damn expandable foam I used to fill in the towers take a hell of a lot longer to cure than the week I let them sit before mounting them. So the foam forced it's way out under the tower and grew upward!! WTF. Now the fresh paint on the trunk is ruined as this shit does not come off and I probably won't be able to get the tower off now to respray any of it, like I have the time!!

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The car is waste spark, so CAS position won't matter AFAIK.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

Pinion and valve body. Looks as though the pin could be removed somehow (didn't want to try it since this is my only rack atm) and that the "top" may be pressed into the bottom. Can't be sure. Doesn't look like it would or could move much anyhow, but if someone knows more on the system and has a hypothesis, that'd be nice. I am picking up a spare rack that is busted as well for the point of trying to see what I can find that might explain the large dead zone on the center of the rack.

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Honestly I think that the dead zones develop after wear and tear from use. I rebuilt an AWS rack and set the pinion torque on the tighter end of the spec and I could not be happier with how smooth, controlled, and responsive my steering is. Cant wait to install my refreshed Rear rack, pump, and controller valve and have AWS. Seems everyone is obsessed with removing the fun gadgets that made these cars special while I have been converting to them >.<. My car may be slow but it is damn fun to drive! BTW If you are converting a Rack to manual use a FWD rack for the slight increase in turn to turn ratio (2.8 vs 2.5).

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Originally Posted by Bloodlust182

Honestly I think that the dead zones develop after wear and tear from use. I rebuilt an AWS rack and set the pinion torque on the tighter end of the spec and I could not be happier with how smooth, controlled, and responsive my steering is. Cant wait to install my refreshed Rear rack, pump, and controller valve and have AWS. Seems everyone is obsessed with removing the fun gadgets that made these cars special while I have been converting to them >.<. My car may be slow but it is damn fun to drive! BTW If you are converting a Rack to manual use a FWD rack for the slight increase in turn to turn ratio (2.8 vs 2.5).

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I've considered tightening the pinion slightly more, but I will be doing a second rack that is has the pinion welded and see if that makes a difference.

In my case, most of the nice "extra" unique features were already FUBAR. I would very much like to find a good condition blue 94 or 95 VR4 to keep stock and maintained, but just not worth it with this car. I have planned on trying to get a FWD rack to experiment with as well, but would like to do back to back with the AWD rack. Technically, I would assume no reason why you couldn't manual convert the front rack and keep the rear paws rack so long as you connected the lines some how. Just a thought on my part.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

I've considered tightening the pinion slightly more, but I will be doing a second rack that is has the pinion welded and see if that makes a difference.

In my case, most of the nice "extra" unique features were already FUBAR. I would very much like to find a good condition blue 94 or 95 VR4 to keep stock and maintained, but just not worth it with this car. I have planned on trying to get a FWD rack to experiment with as well, but would like to do back to back with the AWD rack. Technically, I would assume no reason why you couldn't manual convert the front rack and keep the rear paws rack so long as you connected the lines some how. Just a thought on my part.

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It would not be possible to remove the power from the front rack and still have the rear power rack operate. The the pressure from the front rack is what signals the rear rack to turn which ever direction that the front is pointing. The system would not work without the front rack having power.

Damn Greg, looks like your car needs penicillin. It's got a bonsai tree growing out of it!

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

It seems that the damn expandable foam I used to fill in the towers take a hell of a lot longer to cure than the week I let them sit before mounting them. So the foam forced it's way out under the tower and grew upward!! WTF. Now the fresh paint on the trunk is ruined as this shit does not come off and I probably won't be able to get the tower off now to respray any of it, like I have the time!!

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Expanding foam is polyurethane based, solvents aren't going to do much (or anything) to it once dried unless you pay for specialty stuff explicitly for the removal of polyurethane foam. Your best bet for a solvent a local hardware store might carry would probably be something like MEK, but it will damage the surface of the paint as well. I'd try to cut as much off as you can, see if you can remove the worst of it mechanically. A metal putty knife can probably get under the wing to help break the hold there and allow you to remove the wing to repaint this stuff if you do get the time.

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Originally Posted by Bloodlust182

It would not be possible to remove the power from the front rack and still have the rear power rack operate. The the pressure from the front rack is what signals the rear rack to turn which ever direction that the front is pointing. The system would not work without the front rack having power.

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Good point, hadn't really been thinking about that when I responded last night. At any rate, the AWS on my car was toast anyhow and not worth trying to save so it's gone the way of the dodo.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

Expanding foam is polyurethane based, solvents aren't going to do much (or anything) to it once dried unless you pay for specialty stuff explicitly for the removal of polyurethane foam. Your best bet for a solvent a local hardware store might carry would probably be something like MEK, but it will damage the surface of the paint as well. I'd try to cut as much off as you can, see if you can remove the worst of it mechanically. A metal putty knife can probably get under the wing to help break the hold there and allow you to remove the wing to repaint this stuff if you do get the time.

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Yeah, I may have to use something like guitar wire to cut through it depending how badly it adhered to the rear deck. It will have to all be sanded and repainted. not even going to bother with chemicals as I know anything I use will also remove the paint.

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Originally Posted by green-lantern

Damn Greg, looks like your car needs penicillin. It's got a bonsai tree growing out of it!

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He shall now be known as Bonsai Gonzo!! :lo5l:

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Yeah, I may have to use something like guitar wire to cut through it depending how badly it adhered to the rear deck. It will have to all be sanded and repainted. not even going to bother with chemicals as I know anything I use will also remove the paint.

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Greg, I wonder if you could get most of it off with judicious use of a Dremel with one of those wire wheels (maybe a brass one)?

I'd think patience would get you damn close, then maybe you could finish it off with a light compound/polish?

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Originally Posted by j2k4

Greg, I wonder if you could get most of it off with judicious use of a Dremel with one of those wire wheels (maybe a brass one)?

I'd think patience would get you damn close, then maybe you could finish it off with a light compound/polish?

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The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.

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Ah, understood. :wink:

Center pins ordered for rear bushings. Added up what ive sent so far just on materials and sch, not including my time and labor. Total cost including r&d is way higher than I had hoped for..had planned to give a couple sets away to friends, but may have to sell them all just to try to recoup some of the costs :( future runs should be cheaper but jfc...

New tie rods arrived today. Significantly less free play than the old ones had, which is slightly concerning. I expected they'd be a bit tighter, but its quite a bit more. They do loosen up after a minute or so of moving it around.

Also, some shots of the bondo work Snook did for where the panels were welded in the bay. Was going pretty well till we started drinking :D. Still, some more sanding, a bit of glaze and some filler primer should resolve that. Couple more spots that need their new pieces welded in, but progress is progress.

Before:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...8cd8756823.jpg

After:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...128f16fdaf.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...0a9d11ae43.jpg


Need to pick up a new bit for the drill press for the center pins, but otherwise they're almost ready to be installed, which means rear subframe is almost ready to be installed :D

Likely going to try my hand at a DIY AWS arms for the back, may even replace the front bushing for the trailing arm with a heim before I put it all back under there.

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.

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I'd probably try to break it off then get the rest with a plastic scraper and or x-acto knife (for the cracks). It might look fine.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

Likely going to try my hand at a DIY AWS arms for the back, may even replace the front bushing for the trailing arm with a heim before I put it all back under there.

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I made my own AWS delete when I was converting to AWD cost me about $86. Got some nice Teflon lined Heims from Speedwaymotors.com just seach "heim" and "swedge tube" and you should find everything you need. Don't forget some cone washers as well.

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Originally Posted by Bloodlust182

I made my own AWS delete when I was converting to AWD cost me about $86. Got some nice Teflon lined Heims from Speedwaymotors.com just seach "heim" and "swedge tube" and you should find everything you need. Don't forget some cone washers as well.

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Pretty much what I had in mind, especially since a FWD rack will eliminate the awd up there, and a neoprene expansion plug will work for the top of the diff.

That's how I did mine. FWD steering rack, expansion plug on the rear dif and got all my parts from Speedway motors.

For the first time in about 2 years I got the rear hatch release cable to work.

When I tried to add remote hatch release with the alarm, it kinda worked, then quit working all together, after that the lever release quite working in the car.

Relocated the pull for the alarm to open the hatch, and adjusted everything and it is now working again, the release lever in the car AND the remote release for the alarm....feeling accomplished.

The best part is, I know this will not become an issue again.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...2ee297dfd7.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...ee81be7862.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...bbb76dcae7.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...7b85b253c9.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...73c04ba565.jpg

Did this today. Ninja performance poly front subframe bushings. Need to do the control arm bushings next but would rather use a press for that. Definitely much better shape than the old stockers. New center pin material for rear subframe bushings won't be in till Tuesday unfortunately :( but at least the front cross member is mostly ready to go back on, which means the wheels and tires are almost ready to go back on.

Finished up almost all of the wiring and soldering in the engine bay.

http://i.imgur.com/4LC3jqZ.jpg

Confirmed that my rear ground for my sound system is adequate, like 0 Ohms adequate. I also got my mudflaps apart, and the brackets ready for neutralizing then reassemble then coated.

Spent better part of the afternoon replacing fog lights.
They lasted 18 years ...

I spent today installing electroluminesent panel backlighting for the main cluster.

Interior is one step closer to complete:

http://i59.tinypic.com/210ili1.jpg

Bent a piece of aluminum to add 1 washer nozzle under my hood cowl. Seems to work alright. I'm going to see if they make one with 3-4 squirter holes instead of 2.


http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psocznywak.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pskifeg4vo.jpg

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Originally Posted by fastfalcon94

Bent a piece of aluminum to add 1 washer nozzle under my hood cowl. Seems to work alright. I'm going to see if they make one with 3-4 squirter holes instead of 2.

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My Mazda 6 has washer nozzles that each have 4 streams. mine is a 2003 (first production year) so I dont know if they changed them after that but its worth trying to find some at a JY.

You could always find a "wet arm" to make work. My Grand Prix has no nozzles. The stream is sprayed from the wiper arms themselves. If I ever get back to getting the Stealth on the road that I what I plan on doing.

Front steering rack crossmember is back in, steering rack is reconnected to the rest of the steering assembly. The wheel hub/bearing assembly needs to be reinstalled up front, but not rushing since I still need the new material for th rear bushings to get in (tomorrow allegedly) so I can do the rear subframe. Thinking I may just leave the ass end more or less as is for now. Wanted to do the AWS delete stuff first, but honestly I just worry about running out of time, so I'll probably bolt it back on like this and fix it after the move. Subframes being back on means wheels go back on soon which means I can roll it back outside, put body parts on it and throw a car cover on it and actually use my garage to prep for the move which should make it much much easier.

Ready to get this over with..Anybody in TN or NC that wants to help? :D

Well, not to the Stealth, obviously, but I spent 15 hours over 3 days detailing the Grand Prix

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...ps6idgyttj.jpg

Took coils off just to see how much smaller it looked in the engine bay. It's comically tiny looking.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psu4kmanq9.jpg


Put the hood on to check clearances. Actually looks like a car now, weird.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psuql7dy9s.jpg



stock hood cowled = amazing amount of hood clearance.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...pszf8o1bti.jpg




Took it out of hibernation and dusted it off!!

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psmbbiaphm.jpg



Goofy looking picture

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psvdmn3oha.jpg



Obviously sitting like a truck but ground clearance relative to the car looks pretty good

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psi5iqzgan.jpg



Sittin' like a truck

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4szvkuni.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psna0aw03d.jpg



Annnnnd, back in hibernation

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psncoqj4d3.jpg

...Back to stock VR4 suspension and ride height eh? ;)

Looks like it's coming along swimmingly, but are the pictures on the ground with the engine and trans in it? My VR4 sits like that (on stock coils) with no engine or trans in it, surely the LS isn't that light of an engine..

Anxiously awaiting the arrival of the material for the center pins for rear subframe bushings. Thinking I *may* buy a lathe to try to do a regular production of these. Alternatively, wonder if I couldn't rig up the bench grinder to function vaguely similar. Drill the material, run an allthread extension through it and fasten it to hold it in place. Better option than trying to use the drill press like that. Wouldn't make it much (if any) cheaper, but should make it look more professional and be less of a headache. As is, after doing the math on it, $200 a set may be a bit on the lowside considering. Probably still sell as many extras as I get out of it just to try to recoup some of the costs. Only way I could potentially turn a profit would be to do a group buy so I can buy a larger amount of material at a time.

Still need to pick up some new bolts for holding the front wheel bearing/hub assembly to the knuckle. Not bothering to reinstall sway bars at this point either, don't need them to put her on the trailer. Hopefully should have her back on the ground tomorrow , otherwise it'll have to wait until next week. Once that's done, can start packing up my tools and cramming stuff into boxes.

Flushed my brake fluid in preparation for the NG.

Engine and trans in it! Have a couple hundred pounds of crap to put in it still. Even then, it'll sit higher. I had a 200lb human being sit on the front of it and it was still high. I think it's a bit lighter, aluminum block would definitely be lighter, with all the stuff not used from stock but mainly i bet it's weight distribution.

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

...Back to stock VR4 suspension and ride height eh? ;)

Looks like it's coming along swimmingly, but are the pictures on the ground with the engine and trans in it? My VR4 sits like that (on stock coils) with no engine or trans in it, surely the LS isn't that light of an engine..

Anxiously awaiting the arrival of the material for the center pins for rear subframe bushings. Thinking I *may* buy a lathe to try to do a regular production of these. Alternatively, wonder if I couldn't rig up the bench grinder to function vaguely similar. Drill the material, run an allthread extension through it and fasten it to hold it in place. Better option than trying to use the drill press like that. Wouldn't make it much (if any) cheaper, but should make it look more professional and be less of a headache. As is, after doing the math on it, $200 a set may be a bit on the lowside considering. Probably still sell as many extras as I get out of it just to try to recoup some of the costs. Only way I could potentially turn a profit would be to do a group buy so I can buy a larger amount of material at a time.

Still need to pick up some new bolts for holding the front wheel bearing/hub assembly to the knuckle. Not bothering to reinstall sway bars at this point either, don't need them to put her on the trailer. Hopefully should have her back on the ground tomorrow , otherwise it'll have to wait until next week. Once that's done, can start packing up my tools and cramming stuff into boxes.

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Lot of work into LS swap but it will be fun! Aluminum block would be nice. Good thing wide tires fit in rear of a 3S!

I oringed my block this weekend with Isky tool with engine still installed. Worked well. Great little tool.

Added thought hat occurs to me ATM..do I need to reinstall the rear diff and rear axles to get the car onto a trailer?

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Originally Posted by sergechronos

Added thought hat occurs to me ATM..do I need to reinstall the rear diff and rear axles to get the car onto a trailer?

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Nope.

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

Nope.

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I...I love you right now.

But seriously, very very good news. I know the front needs the axle stubs in place.

Also good news:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...418f220a2f.jpg

Cutting them tomorrow, installing them in the subframe, and hopefully getting it back on the car

I see detailing supplies.

Yeah, had been using it where I rattle canned some paint onto the car as a test. Cleaned up very very well, but the paint is just so soft that I stopped. Once I fix the air compressor I'll probably sand, touch up and do a respray properly.

Changes coming

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...4a47329202.jpg