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got a lot done but only took pictures of the rod ends i made. Rebuilt them using opposite thread so alignments are as simple as turning the whole thing. no need to take it off. Will be posting an update video this week.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...pstlhqsdv4.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psfswolb8t.jpg
Also, my video from last week showing (most) of my failed attempts at steering. Sadly this isn't all of it.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/r8-jWaXND9k
still using that ebay rack?Quote:
Originally Posted by MDoe8
No i was an idiot and forgot it was a rear steer setup so everything was backwards. I am using a mustang rack
I did some more blasting of some smaller brackets & my battery tray/hold-down hardware...The damn weather turned to crap, so I'll wait to powder everything tomorrow night after work.
Trying to figure out what exact kind of turbo's I have had sitting here these last couple of years :confused:
http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...bos-these.html
Did some powder coating last week. Getting the hang of it again after taking a year break from the car.
Some of the brackets that bolt to the turbo and manifolds have a lot of pitting from rust. 2 coats of powders only covers so much and these aren't very showy parts so I didn't feel like priming/sanding/priming/sanding.....
http://i.imgur.com/sDNpcM8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TFrcPZk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VJbQOi3.jpg
Will be powder coating the lower intake plenum tomorrow. Can anyone who has coated one of these tell me how that goo on the bottom reacts in the oven? I soda blasted it today to remove all of the carbon from the runners. These areas will be masked off and the rest will be sandblasted.
Before:
http://i.imgur.com/eh7ktpA.jpg
After:
http://i.imgur.com/kloyp2j.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/x9uYOdx.jpg
I also continued work on polishing my plenum, a job I should have just sent to April because polishing is just not my thing. I still cannot figure out a tool to get into the recessed areas between the bosses.
http://i.imgur.com/kC1Ypeq.jpg
Send it out to be chromed ;)
If will hold up just fine in the heat. I did one a Mirror black which is a 350/15 bake and recently a Chrome powder at 400/10. The goo is like JB Weld. Holds up fine under the heat but the powder will not coat it. I outgass my parts at 450 for 25-30 min and that stuff still held up fine. Getting ready to do another one in chrome here this week....Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ishVR-4
Any forget polishing, I picked up a great Chrome powder I'm using from now on. Granted it is not that polished look, but it is pretty damn close. My only complaint, and there is nothing that can be done about it, is that it has to be cleared after as the chrome powder has ground up metal in it that will oxidize and the clear coat takes some of the shine away. due to how light refraction works....
Here is a plenum I did recently in the Chrome. This is after the clear.
http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.ne...fdb91137ab1a89
Q tip in a drill works really well.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ishVR-4
Those parts look great!!
Yesterday I finished up my steering components, here's a picture of the rod end tube things. Will see all of the parts in the next video.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psgqjw9xta.jpg
Also, snapped a random picture of my car as its getting surgery
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...pszzgxewux.jpg
Which Chrome is that, Greg?
Patented Terminal Chrome with Everclear clear coat. I just got my pre-intake pipes done. On one the clear didn't cure right or the part was still too hot when I did the clear so I have to redo it. Getting ready to do the cold side on my 13G turbo's with it also. I need to get some high temp black for the hotside as I don't carry it in stock right now.
Still working on the upgraded fuel system. Tank is still out until I get a couple more shipments in, but I dropped the back end and started work under the hood today.
I cant believe the amount of stuff you have to take out to get to the fuel filter...
http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...415_192053.jpg
Big thanks to DrGonzo for this one, Still working on making everything around it look as good as the fuel rail does.
http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...415_192127.jpg
And another big thanks to Chris at Ninja Performance for this
http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...415_192143.jpg
Everything is starting to come together. I still need to finish getting the fuel hat back together, put the tank back up, and run the new feed line from the tank to the rail. After that its all just putting stuff back together.
Anyone have any tips for how to mount the new fuel filter? I was thinking about using some self tapping screws and mounting it where the bracket is for the old fuel filter, But its kind of buried under there. Any ideas?
If I was running fresh hose, I'd probably mount the fuel filter higher up on the firewall for easier access to change, OR remotely under the car back by the tank to keep the engine bay uncluttered
Not tonight, but rather what I wrapped up last night...Some more powder got sprayed onto several other parts that still needed it done; some of the stuff had rusted prematurely on me from a not so bright idea to have several parts in a cardboard box (which sucked up a ton of moisture through the past several springs).:distant: Granted, I had only done them using spray paint, so now they're completely sealed.
Attachment 7872
Attachment 7873
I've also begun to fix up more of my current wiring harness so nothing is hacked or contains any damaged connectors...I'm still not entirely certain as to which ports the terminals for the oil pressure sending unit and oil light need to go, but figure that should be easy enough to switch wires around once I have the car fired up again.:frog:
Fixed the small dent on the lower bumper. Then washed and waxed the entire body.
I bought a set of rubber burs for a dremel on ebay or amazon that were 80, 320, and 600 grit. They work pretty well for tight areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ishVR-4
I sat inside of it and made vroom vroom noises with my new helmet on.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...03&oe=55A9B953
What I have been working on here and there during the time I have between jobs and waiting for paint to dry or powder coat to cure...:p
Adjustable Cam gears installed
Swapped my cams back to 1st gen cams
New plugs
New OEM Coil Pack
New AC/Alt Pulley
Powder coated pre turbo pipes - Possibly have to redo the front one as I don't think I got the clear coat thick enough
Powder coated miscellaneous brackets and such
Installed Oohnoo FPR bracket and rerouted fuel lines for the time being till I can redo the fuel lines later on down the road
Powder coated the top of the FuelLab FPR as it wa red and looked out of place.
Cleaned, Cleaning, And More Cleaning
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/image2.JPG
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/image1.JPG
Greg, what size oven do you use? Do you do a lot of these at once, or just a couple small pieces at a time?Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
I use an old GE Frigidaire wall oven from the 1960's that I rewired and cleaned up. The inside is coated in almost a ceramic type of stuff which really helps to control the heat. It was given to me for free from my in laws and works great. I'll probably upgrade it to a Digital PID at some point. I use an infrared thermometer to check part temps and make adjustments as needed. I usually do small parts and stuff like that. It is large enough to do TT plenums and valve covers which is as big as I need. I built a couple jigs to use for valve covers and plenums to make it easy to load/unload them when I coat them and also built a hanging rack inside it.
http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.ne...38b789faf96756
http://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos...00&oe=55E579BB
I got three valve covers done this past week or so, Pissed as two of the covers ended up being bad cores. The one has a crack in where the valve cover gasket goes, and the other one looks like someone tried to polish it and took the edged of the lettering down to far so I can't sand the coating off of the lettering..... I had an order to fill with one of those Mitsubishi covers that I can't fill now due to both being bad cores. So I'm just going to use them as display pieces.
http://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos...e9&oe=559F04AA
Shitty stuff, hate to hear that about the cores. I've got a pair of old ovens that I'd like to weld together to make one very large oven once I move, be much easier to do big stuff like IC pipes and wheels with. Your results always turned out real nice, I just assumed you were using a professional powder coating oven.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
An Oven is an oven, It's all about controlling the temp and using a good powder. My temps fluctuate +/- 20-25 degrees, But I use a good powder that has great overcure properties. I do want to add an aluminum panel heat deflector right above the bottom element as I have seen some parts when they hang the bottom will cure more than the top. So the panel will help direct and radiate the heat better.
I temp to cure on the highside for a lot of things to ensure a full cure and good adhesion. It's also about timing, if you have a powder that cures at 400/10min and you see that part temp only hit 360-370, then add a couple mins to the cure time. I have to do that when doing chrome/clear. the chrome cures at 350/15 min and the clear cures at 400/10 min. So I cure at 375 for about 13min. I hit the part with the Chrome and pop it in the oven, while it is heating up I do a powder swap and clean on the gun and switch it over to the clear, when the chrome powder flows I pull it out and let it cool down to about 200 degrees, then hit it with the clear powder, with the part still hot I get a good interlace between the polymers. I then pop it back in the over and due a full cure.
:lo5l:Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Groove
J-stig
That would be ideal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
Yeah my outgassing procedure is the same. The plenum looks great. I wonder how many coats of primer it would take to smooth out the casting. I have seriously considered the chrome powder, but I have already polished all of my intercooler pipes so I'd like the plenum to also be polished to match. All of your powder coating and hydrodipping really looks awesome. After I get my engine bay all together, I may decide on a black theme instead and send my plenum to you for the carobn fiber dip.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Thanks, however I guess I should have mentioned I am in still in the sanding stage.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
I have seen these before but couldn't find any reviews on them. Good to know they work. Do they last for awhile or do you go through them quickly. Wondering how many I should get.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Not a 3s, but new shoes for my DD volvo.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pstskysoyf.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psi7hwjap9.jpg
I think a light sanding down to a 220 would be enough to smooth things out on the plenum before coating. Then through the blast cabinet should be enough. I have another plenum here I will be working on doing the chrome and ill probably do some sanding on it. Even when Hydro dipping the parts the casting still shows through so I may need to start doing some sanding on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99ishVR-4
Made a 10 bullet list of things to do before NG regarding upgrades and changes. I thought all my money spending was over after the diff, ohlins, turbos, and clutch. WRONG!
I like to use about a 220 grit to sand off the worst of the casting marks, then polishing with a black compound removes the rest and most of the sanding marks made. If powder coating, could probably stop there, or move on to the red and white compounds for a true polish. Not sure whether it'd be worth it with a PC or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
haha that will never endQuote:
Originally Posted by R/T93
Always something to improve!
A bit more accurate for most owners now I think ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ange
You're probably right about that ^^Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
It will come to that Point eventually I guess when going for more horsepower. That's why I prefer lightweight mods over horsepower right now. Less chance of breaking stuff :)
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyways.
Revised Transmission bracket template. Modified to have clearance for exhaust. The angles on each end bolt to the sides of the transmission tunnel.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psjoemt5v2.jpg
What i'm dealiing with ;) Have to cut a lot more for driveshaft clearance...
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psr6jfglv1.jpg
Updated engine bay. Notice the steering in place! Will have more pictures of that once I clean the arms up. They are rough looking right now.
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psrjpzkiqy.jpg
Bonus pictures of my little man giving me a hand (and my old man)
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps44gjatvc.jpg
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/x...psdyjxkt0b.jpg
And a video showing steering
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_wLaaMdt3o
Found the last mudflap I needed for a set!!! And going to order a set of Paul's side skirts for my Stealth.
Discovered this
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...114231_267.jpg
Not really related, but found it after installing this
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...083821_127.jpg
Also have new 550cc injectors installed. Things are moving along.
What turbos you go with Dave?
Is this on the "you know you're a 3/s owner if" list?Quote:
Originally Posted by R/T93
I've been content with what I had for the last 3 years. Oil cooler and pan, turbos and seats are getting me closer to the perfect 3/s in my eyes.
I just know my pre-NG work has also continued to cost more than I initially anticipated, so I can relate to the idea of feeling like you are done spending money only to learn that you were wrong and the spending must continue.
I did just read an article that made me feel a little better about things though. It essentially said that race cars exist in only two states, broken and on their way to being broken. I guess the key is just ensuring that the trip you take to being broken takes a while.