JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

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Originally Posted by AdamVR4

Hopefully it's not too late... When the crank pulley bolt is allowed to bottom out into the threaded hole of the crank, the threads of the bolt that bind in the crank can deform. When those threads deform, the bolt will get stuck during removal... Then you're in for a world of fun if the bolt snaps.

Before you put any more load on that bolt, remove it and prevent it from bottoming in the hole with a washer stack or spacer of some sort.

Glad to see you should be able to get away with a fairly minimal rebuild.

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Yeah you're right Adam. The first 1-2 threads are deformed a little although fortunately it hasn't damaged the crankshaft. Probably should pick up a new bolt for $12 :redface:

Not sure how minimal. Seems like if I just put stock internals back in I can minimize it. But forged pistons will mean more machine shop work. I feel like if I need the shop to do anything other than basics I should probably just punt and get a shorty from Pampena

Front axle nut is perfect spacer

OK, Got internals for the block on order. Pampena's forged Ross pistons in the stock size with Pampena's proven rings and a full set of Clevite 77 bearings. Said it would take 2 weeks to make them. In the mean time I'll finish stripping out the block and get it cleaned and honed.

Pretty stoked that I'm going to have a forged bottom end for under $1000. Question - should I / can I re-use the wrist pins? Does it make any sense to upgrade them if my power level will be less than 450 AWHP?

My Bluepoint GA317 arrived yesterday so I should be able to complete the head dissassembly.

I'd just get Ray's recommendation, Jim. :)

Agreed on getting Rays opinion.

I have heard stock wrist pins are good for 5-600hp but that is just word of mouth.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimvr4

OK, Got internals for the block on order. Pampena's forged Ross pistons in the stock size with Pampena's proven rings and a full set of Clevite 77 bearings. Said it would take 2 weeks to make them. In the mean time I'll finish stripping out the block and get it cleaned and honed.

Pretty stoked that I'm going to have a forged bottom end for under $1000. Question - should I / can I re-use the wrist pins? Does it make any sense to upgrade them if my power level will be less than 450 AWHP?

My Bluepoint GA317 arrived yesterday so I should be able to complete the head dissassembly.

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What rods?

Stock rods

I already know Ray's opinion.... He's posted it many times on the forums, and and I've talked to him about it when ordering pistons.

Use his tool steel pins for big power builds, otherwise use the stock pins. Never use the aftermarket lightweight pins.

Jim, I would have that block inspected before pulling the trigger on the pistons... I've seen too many detonated motors that the bores looked good at first look, but weren't round, or had a ridge once cleaned up. Ray can build any size you need, I'd hate to see you get stuck with an undersized set because you got in a hurry.

Thanks Larry, I'll visit the shop soon and get the block cleaned and checked.

I would not run a set of aftermarket piston wrist pins. I bent off the shelf Ross pins with about 500AWHP and had to have Ray replace all the bushings on my Crower rods. I went with his tooled steel race pins for $185 and they're much thicker than what comes with pistons. They're slightly beefier than the stock ones too. That's what I chose for my stroker motor. It was $185 for the wrist pins so it was kind of a no-brainer.