True true.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Btw. while having a good pic. That box thing in the corner what's that for? Want to know if I should delete :p
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True true.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Btw. while having a good pic. That box thing in the corner what's that for? Want to know if I should delete :p
I have no idea yet, I need to research it because mine is horrifically rusted and likely non-op.
I'll look into later today.
ECS G sensor
Should've figured someone would know it off hand, thanks ABM. Well, mine is getting deleted then, as is the Wiring for it. Need to get off my ass and do the wiring harness stuff, so much to go through still to find my grounding issues and what not.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
is it only for the ECS? Does the ABS/SRS system use it also? I'll need to look over the wiring again as I can't remember off the top of my head if any other system use it.
You going to make these available to others?Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfalcon94
I don't think I am going to get into the seat bracket business. There would be liability involved, and some of my bends were achieved with a vice and hammer. This was my design pic though before I started. I think the only tweaking I did was with the front inner bracket. It doesn't overlap like in the pics, it just welds onto the front. You basically make the actual rectangle frame part first. Use some shims to get it to sit exactly where you would want in the car. Then see what you need for feet. I think I have about $25 in material into them.
Edit: and the square box thing on the drivers side is some kind of factory part. not sure what it is exactly.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psw9zjvefh.jpg
And here is what I mean by make the rectangle first. You can see how much lower it sits than the corbeau brackets. Put it where you want, cut/bend the feet, tac them on.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps02lxinzc.jpg
Maybe you could do some sort of disclaimer like "For show cars only. Not intended for on or off road use." :DQuote:
Originally Posted by fastfalcon94
"This product also known to the state of California to cause cancer."Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
Thanks for the info to eld I'll try it hopefully won't mess that up. I know I have to calibrate my needles now
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Disclaimers don't really work in the USA. I knew a guy making tubular control arms, and it turned out that he was still completely liable for injury and death even with a 1 page long disclaimer.
Lawyers, f*ck em all.
Yeah, disclaimers don't really mean much in a lot of situations. Just like when shops try to say any damage or theft that occurs while the car is on their lot is not their responsibility, but the law dictates otherwise and they just hope people are stupid enough not to sue them if something happens.
Started to work on my cam gears and prepping to swap the cams. I got the cams set and then set them up in the drill press to drill/tap them to lock them in place so they don't slip.
http://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.ne...e72aed03c4e4fb
All locked in place
http://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hph...57&oe=55B8D48F
My cams had some surface rust on them so I had them soaking in the parts washer overnight to loosen shit up. Pulled them out, cleaned them up and starting to work on polishing the lobes and such.
Left one is polished the right three are not done yet
http://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hph...9f&oe=557438E7
Saturday is our big Cars and Coffee meet here in Raleigh, NC. so I decided I needed to start getting the engine bay all cleaned up since it was covered in dust form being in winter storage.. Three hours later and I finally got it all cleaned enough for the show. I'll hit the hoses and such with tire shine when I get to the show.
http://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.ne...bd68fa3db7530c
http://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.ne...e28b59108e0534
That freaking engine bay...!! Well done sir, that is sharp as hell. Man I'm excited for summer.
Did you degree the engine, then remove the cam gears to drill for locks?
Is there seriously no way to make them not slip? Lock or star washer? Kinda useless then. BCs for the win I guess.
I would think this would more than work.
http://www.wintechracing.com.au/wp-c...her-convex.jpg
The ABS G-sensor is located under the ashtray near the shifterQuote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
<~~ Wonders why ABS needs a G sensor...
So the system can decide to work in the worst possible moment....Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Glad to see the slipping was not 3SX cam gears
I believe it disables on hills greater than 15 degree slopeQuote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Stock engine, stock camshafts, what's there to degree... Heads have never been decked and I confirmed the timing marks on the adjustables to the stock cams. I'm not building a power monster so Im not that finicky about pulling every last bit of power/torque from the motor. I got these for an absolute steal so I'm just going to set and forget. Same concept of buying Jackhammers gears that were the stock ones just drilled out to the settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
I'm not 100% sure if these Fidanza's will slip or not, they are the newer style that clear the timing belt covers. I just know people have complained about adjustable ones slipping in the past regardless of brand. Rather safe than sorry. Seeing as I run a solid tensioner and Kevlar belt I don't have that slack that the hydraulic tensioner gives which may cause a slipping issue to be more common.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
LOL! Well said ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Gotcha. Carry on:)Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
I bought a used CF sunroof cover. The underside was all messed up for some reason like it had been hit with brake cleaner. I repainted the underside, buffed the top, put on new hardware and a new seal. The seal was the biggest pain. I tried a few different things and ended up going with 3m Weatherstrip Adhesive. I also had to sand the front edge down as it stuck out farther than the glass did. I've heard that piece can go flying off all on it's own, so I didn't want the sunroof putting upwards pressure on it when it opened/closed. Now I'm just waiting on my hood and cf vinyl roll for the wing.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pscd5pdnyt.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psdrazwn5s.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psz3svhhvh.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pslsy9rfd0.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2xxmknkd.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psxd2crx1x.jpg
Started tearing down the engine in order to replace timing belt, waterpump and everything else that goes along with it.
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projek...322_223327.jpg
I want a CF sunroof cover, but have heard they might be troublesome. Looks good though.
I raised the bottom part of my subframe. I moved the engine up and back a while ago so my bottom subframe piece was lower than i needed it to be. Gained another inch of clearance!
Fun's over. Hoping for an easy engine swap without machine work. :(
Attachment 7815
I've often wondered how much the rear subframe and front end could be adjusted in a stock application to minimize the angles and help reduce wear on the carrier bearings and DS (perhaps allowing for less vibration from the driveshaft as well, especially if two piece) but is all idle speculation on my part.Quote:
Originally Posted by MDoe8
Today I've shipped a set of heads and got a shipment of sanding discs in for my DA sander. Have to wire my compressor back up to use it, but shouldn't be too terrible to do a few butt splices.
Local yahoo brought another stealth over, he couldnt figure out why his idle was so high...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pst0myq8kh.jpg
I have no words.
wow...just wow
I do, McDonalds!
Well, compressor isn't running. If I flip the switch, sometimes it hums and doesn't run, sometimes it runs but surges between high and low power. Not sure what the issue is, but too many other projects to worry ATM.
Beyond that, through careful use of the welder and some light bondo action I fixed a quarter panel.
Before:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...4737b1e0ef.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...477f8068b7.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...df449c78b3.jpg
After:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...72ed53f504.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...9585cc6288.jpg
Also installed the hoop spoiler today because sleeper. Did what is hopefully the last bits of touch up work to the evil eye mod, and made a tubular rear crash bar to replace my rusted out OEM one (and attaches to the stock shock absorbers).
So most of the cosmetic work on the exterior is done at least aside from the obvious of paint. Under hood and underbody still need work though, and the wiring harness project is looking more unappealing by the day.
Help an ignorant fellow out was it the missing screw? Or the big #10 bolt?
there's a bolt in the BISS port
There isn't a screw missing. That is the the backside of the hole. The 10mm bolt is in place of his BISS.
Before I move the engine up and back, I was thinking about the same thing. I was planning on rotating the differential, not anything on the subframe itself. My driveshaft phasing was going to be terrible so i was going to look into dropping one end and maybe slotting the other for adjustment. New engine placement makes for a perfect setup though :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Also worth noting (not sure how familiar you are in this matter), you do not want a perfectly straight driveshaft. You want equal opposite angles for proper phasing (+x degrees tailshaft, -x degrees diff is an example)