I replaced the regulator on the Eastwood TIG with a flow meter from HTP. http://www.usaweld.com/SearchResults...rch=Flow+meter
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I replaced the regulator on the Eastwood TIG with a flow meter from HTP. http://www.usaweld.com/SearchResults...rch=Flow+meter
keep turning the regulator up until you can get a smooth weld without porosity or excessive splatter.
The easy test is weld with it off, then you know how it acts with no flow.
Pretty much what I ended up doing. Porosity and splatter are minimal now, think most anything left is due to technique at this point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Thanks FamilyMAN, I'll give that a look.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Since I don't have free time until next week to mess with it again (and I wore out my grinder cutting wheel) I'm going to try to get a response from Eastwood and see I'd they'll ship me another one for now before I buy a new one. Likely will end up upgrading either way, but it'd be nice to avoid spending more money for the moment.
Need to get more cutting wheels for the grinder so I can cut down that square tubing and make the cart to move the car to clean the garage out and up and rearrange everything for more space. Likely going to ditch/disassemble the two rolling service carts I have now in favor of a large multidrawer rolling tool chest. Still need to finish off the stand I built for the tool cabinet, and to get/make a step stool for that area. Many projects to do to try to get ready before spring break.
I'm thinking the dyno was possibly incorrectly setup too. Apparently (I wasn't actually there unfortunately) the dyno was coming up with front/rear roller difference errors, I also now have 2 flat spots on each front tyre where they locked up on the rollers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Sort of reminds me of this thread
Hub dyno info needed please - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center
Since its that time of the year, working on some stuff (top secret and what not) and trying to get a good head on picture of the 2G headlights with the front bumper off.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...1086ecb051.jpg
Basically a shot about like this. Area that I'm looking into is where that pop up motor is on the 1Gs (the red dot to the side of that picture towards the core support.)
I'm sure you guys can guess what I'm doing, but haven't found a really good picture of that area at an angle like this yet. Wanting to get some stuff planned out before I cut out my old 1G buckets and weld in these 2Gs.
Practing welding is fun isn't it? I love it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrQx...8IANlK7eZDLI1Z
Those welds are looking too cold and you are definitely moving too fast. Try slowing down first. Also, what's your helmet darkness set at? USually around 11 works great. Looks like you missed the joint on a couple which could be due it being set too dark. For myself, a bit of oscillation helps me guide the puddle and make the weld my desired thickness. Also helps because I don't have to pull a perfectly straight line.
Once you get a new gauge and regulator, I would turn the cfh down to the mid 20's. 50 is far too high for these applications. (unless it's your gauge being stupid which sounds like it is.)
Good luck!
Oh yeah, I made some progress on my car as well. Determined exactly how i'm doing the transmission tunnel and made one of the braces that goes over it. No pictures though.
Gauge is definitely bring stupid, Eastwood emailed me this morning though, they're going to ship me a new regulator. Hopefully it works out.Quote:
Originally Posted by MDoe8
While I'm moving too fast, I think part of the coldness is the fact that my 130A isn't rated for 1/4" thick steel with solid core, just flux core. With the voltage maxed out and the edges filleted I got some better results, still moving too fast though.
Setting was at about 11-13, but the angle of the lighting has it coming around my head behind me so it makes seeing very difficult (part of why I need to rearrange everything out there.)
One of my coworkers used to be a welder, he said he would come by and give me some pointers soon so that should help. Going to watch more videos to get a better idea of what I'm looking for while welding.
Regulator issue is definitely something that has me on hold until it's resolved. Just not sure I trust welds on a cart to hold the car without knowing for sure I've got everything set up properly.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...a0db4bdc4c.jpg
Played with it a bit more last night, think was the closest I got to a decent weld but regulator is probably still too low.
Pictures are overrated anyhow.Quote:
Originally Posted by MDoe8
For 1/4" I pretty sure you need a min of like 170 amps... So your 130 is too low for a single pass. You can bevel the edges of both pieces and do a multiplier pass fill to compensate for it. Up your wire size also to probably a 0.35 if you haven't already. Preheating the part with a torch will also help.
dittoQuote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Flux Core that B. Ive gotten some pretty good welds with the Lincoln Flux core wire on the thicker gauged metal.
My DD needs four new tires so I have been forced into driving the Spyder to work. Damn. To top it off, the weather is supposed to be 68-75 degrees for the next few days. Shit. And to make matters worse, the AC unit isn't working now so I'll have to drive with the top down. Damnit ! :)
Absolutely no sympathy for you Jim!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Haha! I do need to figure out the AC thing though. It was charged and working fine. Now I don't think the compressor switches on at all. Not sure why.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Is the system still charged? I know it wont kick on if there is not enough refrigerant in the system. Might have a leak somewhere?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Well, tapatalk updated today on my phone, haven't been able to get anything to post from it now. Just keeps saying it's trying to to connect to the server or something. Meh.
I had bevelled the edges which helped, however even with the voltage cranked up the steel just soaked the heat up. Hadn't thought about using a torch to preheat.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Don't think I can run .35 wire, largest I think this supports is .30 flux core.
Flux core is what the machine recommends for 1/4" thick anyhow, my roll of Forney flux core should be in Thursday I think. Anywhere from 20-50% off list price pending what I can talk my manager into taking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Borrowed an engine crane and an engine stand. Hopefully the replacement block/engine is delivered next weekend. Was supposed to be this weekend but been pushed to next weekend instead.
Looking at rolling tool cabinets for the garage. Homedepot has one for $119, but it's online only..So can't check it out in person which is a downer. Probably the right amount of storage that I need though.
Harbor Freight has a 26" 11 drawer rolling cabinet for $189, which has good reviews online and I know Ninja uses those US General ones with no complaints. That said, it's way more storage than I need.
Lowes has the lower half of a rolling tool cabinet on sale for $69 (marked down from its normal $180ish) which has like 4 drawers and may be as much storage as I need
The ACE where I work has one of the Craftsmen 5 drawer tool chests left over from last months sale that the manager will let me have for last months sale price of 79.99.
So, hard to say off hand. Anyone have thoughts, or experience with any of these?
I like the HF one, but seriously think it's overkill for how much I need (both in terms of storage space and price) for now. Easy as it is to say that I can always buy more tools later to fill it, I am still a college student so that's a couple years off and I can always buy one down the road when I have more discretionary income and a larger garage space.
Going to go by HF, Lowes and HD today to see what is there to look at for examples and see how I feel about it all.
Do not get a standard duty tool chest, even if it is "ball bearing".Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
Get a heavy duty one or the first time you toss a tool in the drawel the slides will fail.
I have a craftsman chest and not too impressed with it. They have gotten cheap with their construction. Crap sliders with no ball bearings and the bottom drawer is bucked from holding my air tools that it now sticks sliding it in an out and constantly falls off the damn slider. I may have to weld it to the slider as they are not affixed in any way. just metal tabs of sheetmetal holding it to the slider.
I really like Chris's tool cart and thought about picking one up at some point. Drawers are nice and smooth and I like the drawer locking feature on them. Price is right on point for the quality of it also: 30 in. 5 Drawer 704 lb. Capacity Glossy Red Tool Cart
these are still good:Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Sears.com
^ My HD Craftsman has help up great for the past 8 years or so. You have to get the ball bearing drawers or you will be miserable.
Well, went by HF and HD. Not impressed with HDs Husky line (which is what that $119 is.)
HF is putting the red cart like Chris has on sale for about 150 at the beginning of March, and the non-HD version for 109ish.
Thus far, I'm actually leaning towards a big HD HF tool chest that's about 349. Much more stable than most of the other ones, can hold a lot more weight and tools, and allows for much more organization I think. On the fence.
I never owned a tool box that was too big...
Physical space is a concern in this garage. With the workbench, shelving unit, 60 gallon air compressor, washer, drier and the car in the garage, physical space is definitely limited.
Don'y worry about buying one that is too big! Trust me when I say you will eventually wish you had the space.
Any plans to fix your car??Quote:
Originally Posted by CoopKill
Yes I have a dead line, and a hard dead line. HDPE starts March 29th, and another April 2*th. So it begins this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
Decided on one. And paid for it. 26" 16 drawer heavy duty from HF. Had a coupon so it was 319.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...d577b62297.jpg
Should be big enough :p. Horizontal foot print is about the same as what the cart would've been. Weighs a fucking ton.
Well, car cart semi worked in a hurried movement. Supposed to get snow Monday and Tuesday (allegedly) so set the car on the cart and moved it out. Cleaned the floor up under the car and got all my tools out from under it before shuffling it back in.
Need to get a grease gun and lubricate everything (since my wheels have fittings to lubricate the ball bearings for pivoting and the bolt that serves as an axle.)
Move the car closer to the far wall so I have a bit more space by the work bench and tool chest for now, And was able to move my welder to the front of the garage (where it'll go into a storage closet.)
going to be a lot of organizing and sorting happening here.
Just hauled my 3s home yesterday.
4.5 hour drive one way, but it was worth it.
1991 vr4 94K miles.
Supposedly jumped time and has bent valves.
Looked in the oil fill and can see at least one rocker popped off, which I've heard is a tell tale sign.
She looks pretty good on the outside and the inside is decent.
I will be doing the work myself.
Attachment 7744
Worked 14 hours on the car Saturday to Sunday morning and then filled the car up with fluids. Crank but no turnover. Hours of troubleshooting noticing no spark no injector movement on the tuning software. Took the cas apart multiple times no luck. Checked connections. Good.
Today I was bored so went to look at the car. Turns out I did not bypass the cas connectors like I had originally thought. Plugged them in and fired right up! Solid tensioner may be a bit too tight though. Will look more into it tomorrow.
Posted a lot of parts for sale on the FB groups. Seems to sell better than on the forums.
Worked out a deal for another trans that pops out of third. Given the shape that mine was in when Ninja and I took it apart literally couldn't be that bad.
Lots of cutting and welding going on here. Hopefully it works out in the end.
Woohoo my car is finally back together and has finally left the garage! Installed ETS fmic, put in refreshed stock heads, carrier bearing bushings, solid tensioner, and replaced front main seal. Idle is good but will definitely need a retune since much has changed.
I got a small coolant leak to narrow down and then install the front splitter and then wash off all this dust! ETS fmic was pretty easy to install. Only modification needed was the vacuum hose barb would hit the cas so I got a 90* barb and the front turbo tuber pipe needed to be cut. Ended up using the stock one and cutting it down since it had the better angle.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...56da083fd5.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...2377fe688d.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...20cba323d8.jpg
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Checked the ecs connectors for continuity on the front struts. On to the rears, then the 9v battery test to determine if they do in fact move correctly.
Leak turned out to be on the thermostat housing connection to rear head. The car is now leak free and running well. Removed stock airbox and main cat and replaced with a cone filter and text pipe. Circled the block a few times and then headed on the freeway to fill up!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...d406159ec9.jpg
The car is running on the rich side at WOT. Next up retune and have the new seat covers installed.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...e063fcc29d.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...04b53bbbbc.jpg
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Its not what I did to her, but its what I did for her. Found a very clean and crack free dash in a scrap yard. The car had been pretty much stripped out, but no one bothered to take the dash.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...shiro/dash.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...fe00dfac88.jpg
Now I just need some new vents. Not bad for $50 bucks.
that ethanol gauge is awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by Andr3w
Yes it is. How much did it run you?
^^ super cool, and we both died a little inside:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...y/DSC_9622.jpg