ah, I see well good lock to ya.
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ah, I see well good lock to ya.
That's the idea. Now I just have a half ass crimped 0awg connector (hard to crimp wires that big) with 1 single bolt for contact. I'll sand paint off and mount this somewhere else hidden better and more secure. I prefer screw down connections over crimping any day lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
Pulled my trans last night with Jfast and put in the new quadco OS and new TOB and new output shaft seal. Put it all back together and perfect no leaks. Clutch feels alittle soft, but need to drive it now. 9 hours from start to finish with a few delays. Runs like a striped ape.
Check your clutch pedal adjustment, and make sure you got all the air out of the lines.
I actually had the pedal out farther due to the broken TOB. I took off the booster canister and capped it. i am going to re-bleed it this maybe tues wheni get a chance. Just feels like as soon as i let the clutch off the floor it engages.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSCF9029.jpg
My list
List of things to do
1. Big brake kit (XYZ)
2. Coilovers, Not positive what brand yet but it will probably be Megans.
3. Aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft, most likely 3SX aluminum two piece.
4. Replace front Balljoint and tierod ends
5. Replace or rebuild steering rack and bushings (maybe polly)
6. Replace bushings and links on the front swaybar
7. Pull transmission and replace the OBX LSD, with stock or Quaife diff
8. Install balance tube, just bought one off ebay last night with ends already on it that will work great for 20 bucks. I just need the fittings to weld on the pipes.
Edit: Oh and it looks like my rear main seal is leaking for some reason. I guess I'll add that to the list......
Did you use the Gatecrasher method? It's supposed to be fairly easy to drop if you balance it at the right point and use a hoist.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
I've never pulled the engine or transmission myself but I want to go the transmission so I can take it apart and reseal the case. I have this really annoying slow drop that I want to take care of.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
I had a rear pinion seal go and made a thread about it.
http://www.3sgto.org/f17/rear-differ...king-6361.html
didn't know you were getting surging, paul. keep us posted on how/what you use for balancing it.
So, I did some experimenting with some different paints, and here's what I came up with. I was using a GM paint called Torch Red. After spending some time comparing that was the very closest I could get to our own Firestorm Red.
What I had done was use two different primers to see which one would darken, or lighten the color of the Torch Red to make it a more acceptable pair with the original on my car. In the pictures, you can see the sideskirt which I had used a white primer on, is a "perfect" match to that of the door. Whereas the door cap which I had used a brown primer on, is quite a bit darker than the door. (Door being original Firestorm Red)
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...1-img-1306.jpg
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...2-img-1307.jpg
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parke...3-img-1308.jpg
In person, I can guarantee you that I can see absolutely ZERO difference in the paint, regardless of lighting or shade, it is as close to a perfect match you`ll get without going to the actual Firestorm Red itself.
I hope this helps some people in a bind for a quick fixes if need be.
Drove the piss out of it at Autox. Now my Throw Out Bearing squeaks.