None for the brake lights. I bought a LED turn signal relay to replace the stock relay, but I think I may have the solid state controller. Going to check tomorrow.
Printable View
Pics of brake lights with the led bulbs?
Went out there for about 30 minutes to move stuff around and try to make some space. Going to try to get the garage cleaned up a bit over the next few days (since class is out Monday for the holiday.)
May build some shelving to fit over my washer and drier, need to make an extension cord for my compressor, and cut the wooden base its on down a bit to make it fit in the closet out there.
Debating on using some 2" square tubing and some heavy duty casters to make a low profile dolly to move the car in and out of the garage with until the suspension and wheels are ready to go back on. (Not sure if that'd be enough to support the weight yet but I need to do some math on it.)
Lot of cleaning and planning to do to try to get things squared away.
I suspect 2" square tubing of a reasonable wall thickness would be PLENTY. That's stronger than anything on the car AFAIK.
Especially with so much of the car out right now. I'd have to use math to determine what size I'd need for sure, but obviously longer spans are more subject to stress. I think maybe a 3'x3' box of 1 to 2" square tube with like a 1/8" to 1/4" thickness should be enough to set the car on and move it. Hard part with a smaller cart though is distributing weight evenly enough, so I may stretch it out to a 6'x6'.
Video of the brake lights
http://vid289.photobucket.com/albums...psb4qe4dif.mp4
Running lights
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psq4nz3lcx.jpg
brakes on
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psqjoy3quz.jpg
Sorry for the crappy quality pics. My phone doesn't take good pics at night.
Correct, there's several out there that the tires sit into, which would be an appealing option if the suspension and stuff was on it. I'm going to have to calculate stresses and stuff myself I think, but 2" square tube is probably still complete overkill. Plates on each corner just to help distribute the weight a bit.
Finally finished up the last SS line / speed bleeder and bled ATE formerly blue now gold into the system.
Found out I have 2-3 oil leaks, a p/s fluid leak, and seeping trans casing seals. Woo!
Nice! Almost ready for eleventy hp!
Close but so far away yet. Traveling for work is killing me. I can't stop thinking about getting the engine in the car.
Just need to degree the cams, install upgraded clutches in trans and shift kit in valvebody.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...e175161a89.jpg
Made a thing today. Not pretty, but gets this cabinet up and out of the way. Moved my workbench and built another set of shelves to clear up more room. Filled trash cans with parts. Bout to start fire selling stuff off to get more room and fund the last stretch of this stuff.
There was an issue with my order with Eastwood for my welder. Ended up having to redo the order today, so won't be here till later this week. Postpones my cart plan a little bit, but no worries. I'll get there. Being able to move the car in and out for more space will be a huge benefit. I do need a car cover to put on the car when its in the driveway though.
Pulled the Supra pump to test it. Turned out it was bad. So I ordered a walbro 450lph e85 pump. Forced upgrades...
I'll be installing an unconventional turbo setup in the rear seating area of my SL. I'm anticipating that the location will help balance out the vehicles weight distribution and add significant horsepower improvements without sacrificing reliability. I do concede that the additional sound emitting from this new setup may turn out to be unbearable and result in me having to remove it, as past experience has shown that the spooling sounds very similar to blaring renditions of "Let It Go" or "Shake It Off." Time will tell.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps7a23fyhi.jpg
Went to a local steel place that sells to the public at large.
4- 2" x2" x 3'8" square tubing that's 1/4" thick walls for about 6 bucks each.
1- 1 1/2"x20' 16 gauge round tube for $17
1- 4'x2' 11g plain steel sheet.
Wanted a stainless sheet (since its going on my workbench) but that would've required purchasing a 4'x10' sheet (not cheap.) The plate is going on my work bench (once its been sanded and oiled to prevent corrosion.)
The square tube is going to go towards making the cart for the car.
The round tubing I'm going to turn into crash bars. Didn't want to go crazy with it since its really for low speed collisions and I don't want to turn the front of my car into a battering ram. Want to angle it up somewhat to compensate for the car being lowered.
if you get a clean piece of steel you don't need to sand it, just oil or wd40 it once in a while. These have been here for a year:
http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...73624807609588
The millscale or whatever actually prevents rust.
up close the surface after dragging transmissions and whatever over it for a year:
http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...73624807297596
I have one back at my rental place like this that I know he hasn't oiled since I left a year ago and it is still clean.
Not clean unfortunately, there's some rust on it. May be able to get it off with steel wool or Brillo pads or similar.
I actually used a sheet of linoleum floor on top of my workbench. I wanted something somewhat soft to work on stuff and it had to be easy to clean. I keep a piece of 3/4" plywood, sheet of foam board and a sheet of metal "all 2'x2'" under the bench that I place down when needed. Works great!
Right now it has like 1/2 particle board or OSB On it and it basically has started to bend. So if this works out, probably leave it bare.
Replaced the fuel filter, FPR, oil cap (w/a Ralliart one), radiator (3sx single pass), steering wheel (Momo w/quick release hub), BOV (Greddy type S), bunch of coolant lines and heater hoses, various gaskets, tested and clean injectors, rebuilt the TB (thanks DBest!), replaced all the couplers with new ones, deleted clutch booster and window washer bottle as well as other minor things, replaced all worm clamps with T-bolt clamps, powder coated PPE FMIC pipes dark red and chrome. I think I'm missing other minor things. Took a while because of school and work u.u. But its finally up and running.
Oh and replaced the center console on the SL :P lol.
Started the tear down to replace my cracked plenum. Adding this one, the new powered rails and will pull the injectors to put new o-rings on.
Attachment 7661
What you guys don't like getting excited to fix one thing only to be reminded there are 1000 other things that need done?
On a related note, after relacing my shift boot/ knob and realizing how gross my interior is I bought a nice set of stock cloth seats to replace my beat leather ones today.
Pulled the wheels to clean the wheel wells and spray some tire shine in there. Getting it ready for a car show on Sunday. Do judges even notice when you've cleaned and detailed your wheel wells?
Dipped into my trans rebuild fund to buy a new mattress..sad realization that I'm getting older, just tired of waking up so sore and achy every morning.
Bought a bending brake, cart for the MIG welder (still not here) and a reciprocating saw.
Welder is on the way now (huzzah!)
First night of sleep of the new bed was a success. Not nearly so sore as I normally am.
Eastwood 135A MIG. they ended up putting it on sale for $300 right after I order the flux core. So I cancelled the flux core order, and went with the MiG. They put the tig on sale for 600 as well, but think that'd be more trouble with what I'm trying to do now. Next year maybe.
Drained the battery
For some reason I left the door open all night so when I came out for work the batt was dead as hell. So being half asleep, mad and stupid I shut the door.......I have the keyless entry.....now I'm locked out because my key is in the center console. I have another key but of course I can't find it. :/
Shitty stuff Paul. Hope you find the extra. Any chance you could get a pair of vice grips on the hood release cable to pop the hood and get a charger in the battery? Don't remember where the cable runs
Wellll, got cams in today. Went to install them..and dropped one of the cam tower bolts which fell and seems to have somewhat wedged itself into an oil drain. Good thing I haven't torqued the heads down yet since I may have to pull them off to retrieve it. Been trying to get needle nose pliers down in there instead. Working on getting the threads cleaned out after coating the subframes.
Chcecked the shipping update, welder is due to arrive on Wednesday unfortunately (unfortunate because I won't be off again until the week after.)
Magnets are yor friend!
I LOVE my bendable magnet retrieval tool:
Master Magnetic 07229 19" Bendable Bend It Flexible Magnet - - Amazon.com
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31vxHcFQ6SL.jpg
Tried that, I can't get it to come loose. It fell with the head of the bolt down and it's like it has gotten stuck on something or gotten wedged. I get the magnet on it, but it just can't stay attached for me to lift out of there. Going to try needle nose pliers of some kind if possible to avoid taking the heads off (because I'm lazy.)
May pick one of these up for future use.