On the way out to Ninja, headed to a Carolina Panthers game this weekend so I'll give him a hand for tomorrow.
Looking at finalizing my radiator plans, need to do the 2G bucket swap first so I can make a cardboard mock up to work with.
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On the way out to Ninja, headed to a Carolina Panthers game this weekend so I'll give him a hand for tomorrow.
Looking at finalizing my radiator plans, need to do the 2G bucket swap first so I can make a cardboard mock up to work with.
Chris and I tore down my trans today.. Bad 1&2 gears, bad 1&2 slider, 3rd gear has some wear (but is usable), 3&4 slider should be replaced, 5th gear has more wear than normal (but can be reused since you know..its 5th) and reverse of course looks like dog shit. End case needs replaced as well. Looks like its going to be around 3k for the rebuild offhand, gotta look it all up.
started pulling my trans for a clutch, cried a little, then cracked a beer
I'm working on putting mine back together after doing the clutch. Hopefully it will be running tomorrow night.
Started looking at the gthoe. Not looking good.
You can just see the edge of the belt in this shot which made me think there might be hope and the belt somehow stayed on. Nope.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...pszitash8h.jpg
Timing marks way out on cams.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...pstllgv4gx.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psmkixunkr.jpg
Pulled front rocker cover....... Front cam looks fine. All the inlet cams are bent and the rockers have fallen off. Most of the cam lobes are scored so cam is now junk.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psi2kov2ln.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psjqqa21v6.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps2veem7sd.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps5fzjycbw.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psvscnyyfe.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1dovdvsp.jpg
So new heads at a bare minimum.
:shitsweak:
:( Damn, I'm sorry.
-John
that sucks
That's sucks but cams should be fine. The roller is wide, so a scratch isn't going to affect the performance.
Agreed with familyMAN. So long as they are scratches and not deep wide gouges, should be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Good to know. A mate has a spare set of heads he is giving me so I probably won't need them anyway. Just so frustrating when these heads where reconditioned only 50k kms. I'll just take the lash adjusters out of these heads since they are the 3rd gen type.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
how did all that exactly happen?
Bolt holding the timing belt tensioner pulley came loose and the pulley cut it's way through the cover and the belt came loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
Helped another member start to pull the drivetrain out of a 3s......... First time I turned a wrench on a 3s in almost 3 years
Were you running an aftermarket lightweight crank pulley? That's what caused mine to do that and the main bearings have wear that shows the increased vibration at that end. Otherwise, reusing the stock bolts for the timing may have caused it to back out also.Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOJOE
My stock harmonic balancer was on the way out so I replaced it with another (non oem) stock style one 2 days before this happened. It's also possible the mechanic didn't replace the bolts when doing the timing belt etc. I found the bolt and it looks like it had been loose for a while and the thread was well worn down at parts. The worst thing is I had heard noise from that area but found a noisy PS pump tensioner pulley so I assumed it was that. If I had done a proper job and pulled the timing covers to inspect it before the trip then I would have found this.Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth
Don't beat yourself up over it. I am willing to wager 99% of us would've made the same assumption you did.
Attempting to purchase her a boyfriend! Attempting is the key as they are wanting 7k over the value...
Let's see if I have skillz still...
I planned on completing the car tonight and starting it... but one of my injector seals disappeared :mad: I'm also pretty sure I can't get one locally :BangHead:
Didn't spend much time on the car today, the lady ended up being off and I felt with us both off on the same day for once it was important to adhere to the most valuable rule any car guy should know: "Happy wife, happy life."
Did work on some bushings a bit more, picked up a drill press for making new rear subframe to body bushings. Need a band saw and belt sander still, but they weren't on sale at HF yet :P
Was going to work on degreeing the cams (still stock, but heads have been decked to the limit and alignment on stuff is off) however, my solid tensioner won't bolt up. Bolt holes are just slightly off, not sure if it's an issue with the chamfer for clearance on the tensioner not being recessed enough, or if I need to clearance the oil pump. Would guess maybe an issue with the bolt holes, but it's the tensioner I let Maddog use for the testing on how the tensioners move so clearly it bolts up. Not sure what year oil pump he used it with.
I am officially done driving my car this year as we got snow and salted the roads. So I brought my insurance down to comprehensive. My friend finished welding my passenger seat bracket together and I tried it out. Definitely much lower, my hair no longer rubs on the ceiling and I'm able to go back farther. I don't think you could get the seat any lower with sliders.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psmyemewst.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psh4yalfyz.jpg
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psaku6byoh.jpg
Left is with my bracket, right is with corbeaus bracket.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pse9quwven.jpg
I still need to weld up drivers side, and fab the seat belt bracket for each side. Then I'll primer/paint them.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...1e3b002d84.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...2350d55158.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...937ea40146.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...8e0a1d6ff3.jpg
Gas tank has been grinded down and coated, and while not pictured, the area where it mounts under the car has as well. Needs a 2nd coat plus the top coat, but already looks miles better. Got several samples of GXL and TXL wire in, going to compare sizes, measure ODs and see how much bigger it'll make the harnesses to rewire the car as such.
Spent some time working on wirewheeling the under side of the car..Suffice to say, it's a mess. Even with cover alls and a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cup brush, it's a pain and gets everywhere. And of course, trying to work with an angle grinder for that long makes your hands go numb, always worrisome when you're working with a grinder in front of your face. My face shield is in desperate need of replacement since I can't see for shit through it. Glasses keep me from being able to just wear goggles and it also makes wearing a dust mask a pain in the ass since it forever fogs up my glasses.
Finally finished putting it together after the clutch swap. Initially it was running really rough but after about 15 minutes it cleared up. Now the only problem is it's idling high. I turned the BISS screw all the way down but it's still ~1600rpm. The only thing I changed is the pcv system. I had both krank vents with no stock pcv before, now it's open atmosphere (yes I plugged the hole in the lower intake manifold). Any ideas? I'm thinking I should see if I can get April to build me a TB since I'm pretty sure my IAC is bad.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps26fd07a7.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3b580e2b.jpg
They're a bit bigger than I thought they would be, but they will fit!
Much as I would like to go COP to clean up the engine bay a bit, all indications point to it being a down grade from stock ignition. Be curious to see how it works out for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by box
May explore doing COP with the Series2, just for the aesthetics.
You need a standalone like AEM to get rid of wasted spark and take advantage of COP
Im running 20PSI on my COP setup without issues (using chrome to play with the settings). If you planning on running in the mid 20s PSI or higher then I probably wouldnt recommend it without going to a setup that has 6 coil drivers (AEM).
Or an Emanage Ultimate. This is my current setup using 6x GDI coilsQuote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps1e47c275.jpg
The only issue I'm having is they'll overheat and start to break down after about 30 minutes of driving due to the excessive dwell time (which isn't adjustable). This is why I've gone with the smart AEM coils which will be happy anywhere from 1-9 ms dwell time.
At a glance, the AEM units have a very similar output to the stock Diamond coils except I'll have 6 of them and they're no longer running wasted spark. Should be good for a few PSI at a decent gap.
Without the ability to adjust dwell, then sequential ignition (with your eManage) and the smart coils should work, at least as well as stock does and you should still be able to wire up a DLI if you need more spark energy.Quote:
Originally Posted by box
Your bay looks pretty well done though. Not sure what the metal pipe I'm seeing between your charge pipe and upper radiator hose is. Looks to be too small and curved the wrong direction to be one of the pre turbo intake pipes. Also, looks like two catch cans where the battery was? Wouldn't mind some more details about the set up you're running and why you've done it like this (just to satisfy my own curiosity)
Finally, had a couple hours to work on the car.....
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/4v...4=w807-h695-no
Love how small it looks without the intake and exhaust manifold...(TIG and a couple boxes of stainless and aluminum pipe in the background;)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...%2B%284%29.JPG
And torn down to bare block (picture was blurry so had to play with it)....
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...4=w521-h695-no
JB Welded gouge in head looks perfect. Bearings look good, especially considering how much ferrous metal I cleaned out of the pan the last time I had it apart. No odd wear patterns. Crank is good, and will just get a polish and balance.
Going to use my spare 2.4 block I picked up. The current one has some wear in bores, some odd wear patterns and also what appears to be a crack! Previous owner did a number on this engine. It has served it's purpose as proof of concept. May get it magnafluxed just to confirm, but I'll be using the other block for the build.
So, I believe I have everything I need to take to the machine shop:D Someone on ECMLink was even kind enough to mail me a torque plate to borrow!
Better keep digging Eric looks like you only pulled half an engine out ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Glad to see you're making progress, should be a blast when its done.
Everything has been shoved under the rear end of the car for now so that I'd have room in front of the car to do the gas tank, so pardon the mess. Brief picture of how "clean" I've gotten the underside..Suffice to say, still have a long way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
You can kind of see where the gas tank will mount under the trunk has been coated, only going to bother with one coat.
Gas tank has been coated, two coats top and bottom. In a week or so (whenever I get time again) I'm going to chase threads on the tank and the mounting points, then reinstall it. That'll give me room to move the rear subframe up front to do it, then each of the other components piece by piece.
Also, loosely mocked up the timing components, water pump still needs replacing, but going to put everything to TDC and get out the degree wheel to degree the cams properly for zero, and then set them to +1 -3 (for now). Check them after that for any signs of valves kissing pistons and if not, call it good enough for government work.
Yeah the Emanage is proving to be a brilliant little box. Currently running speed density without any issues, engine ECU is open loop and the emanage controlling fuel trims off a wideband, and it's controlling the Mivec and the active exhaust. Really under-rated for what you get, a little bit slow compared to the new standalones but so easy to fit and tune and you still get the seamless "jump in a drive" experience that you get with the factory ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
The metal pipe you see goes to a Tial BOV recirculated back into the rear turbo inlet. I've been toying with the idea of running electric/mechanical crank case evacuation pumps to run a vacuum under boost, but haven't quite figured out which road I want to go down. For the mean time, it's just a pair of catch cans with pointlessly overcomplicated (and shiny) plumbing. Looks a little wanky but it does fill up the engine bay quite nicely.
Eric post pictures of your bearings...I'd like to take a look. :)
I'll see if I can get them to photograph well.
Measured more bushings and shit to try to find replacements. Went to work. Aggravated my back (think I pinched a nerve), which is presenting itself in a pain that can only be described as some drugged up midget stabbing my hip and lower back with a blunt ice pick.
Working on scraping money together and saving to test out some ideas for the car. R&D is expensive :WhiteFlag:
Well, once again, nothing to the Stealth, but I did pay off my Grand Prix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
So that means it's officially time to rehab the bastard...
That's my hope Josh. Not only did I pay my GP off, but I paid off one of my credit cards last month.... and I paid off the other last week. I am officially debt free at this point. I set a goal to pay everything off by the end of the year. I caused struggles every once in a while paying so much out, but I met that goal. Now I should be able to throw a little money the Stealth's way.
Well I paid the car off yesterday, right? Today I went to the mall and as I am pulling into my parking spot my cousin asks me what the smoke is? I look over and see a little smoke from the passenger side of the hood. I knew what it was immediately. I popped the hood and the upper coolant elbow was split along the seam. (Coolant elbows are a GM whoopsy "fix" on the 3.8's They are notorious for rupturing at any give time) It seemed to have just happened right there.
I tell him we will go do our thing in the mall, then I can make it to the Advance Auto down the road from the there and try to jerry rig something up to get us home. Unfortunately I didn't have any tools in the car so that was my only option at that point. So I go to Advance, pick up some new elbows, some tape, some rags, some coolant. I thought I might be able to get some tape on the elbow enough to slow the leak down, but there wasn't enough room to get my hands in there to wrap it. I stuffed a rag all around it, fired it up and at least there wasn't coolant being flung anywhere anymore, so I shut the hood and go.
I only make it about 2 miles until the temp starts climbing. I pulled off the road, dumped more coolant in, let it cool and tried again. This time I was able to crest a hill and shut the car down and just rely on braking without power assist and no power steering. I made it to a point where I could safely pull off again and let it cool more. At this point I know I cannot make it home doing this so I called my brother to get our tow dolly hooked up so he can come get me.
I make it to the next exit and get into a gas station to wait on my brother. He calls me a short time later and was like, "Dude, we are both fVcked now. I was coming down 43 and the dolly started bouncing like crazy. I tried to get stopped and as I look in the rearview the whole effing wheel came off and bounced off the bridge. (This overpass is over a valley that is around a 300 foot drop at best guess.) I asked him if the lugs were loose and he responded "No the whole spindle broke off. It's gone. I don't even know how I am going to get this thing home." I suggested unhooking it and putting it in the back of his truck, and if that didn't work shove it off the side of the road and we could get the trailer from work later to pick it up. He was able to thankfully get it in his truck.
So now I am sitting there and figure my only choice now is to call a tow truck. I called the company they tell me it will be $150 but be at least two hours before someone could get to me. I told them I would call them back. I then called my uncle and asked if he was up for bringing my some tools to do some parking lot repairs. He got there about 45 minutes later and we got started. Everything came apart fast and easy. For some reason going back together wasn't as easy.
First the bolts didn't want to line up right. I had to fight the tensioner a little and finally got it bolted up. Then the belt fought me every which way buy sideways. Finally got a correct diagram and got it back on. Filled everything back up and got on the road to get home.
The only issue I have now is for some reason I have no temp gauge. I don't know if I knocked something loose, if there is an air pocket trapped in the thermostat housing, or if the sensor just decided to die just to piss me off a little more.
CLIFFS: Coolant elbow broke. My brother was coming to tow me and our tow dolly broke. Uncle brought me tools to do parking lot repair. Car is running now but temp sensor is not working.