nope..no trimming on my end. Just did the pull and opened VD and saved it and posted.
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nope..no trimming on my end. Just did the pull and opened VD and saved it and posted.
These came in:) 800awhp+ worth of of injector on E85. Going to be installing them soon for the single 14Bastard:D
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N...%2B%282%29.JPG
I likely have one of the most retardly overkill 14b setups in the country (but still extremely slow compared to the guys pushing the 14b record). 2.4l, 1g head (big port vs 2g), 4" intercooler, 3" cold piping, e85, Walbro 460, -8/-6 fueling, 2150's, AEM. Only thing I'm missing is big cams. I'd install the Kelford 280/288s for shits/giggles, if I wasn't concerned that the lift may make my stock 2.4 pistons play tackle with my valves. (Didn't check PTV with stupidly big cams when putting this together for a 14b)
(There is a car out there running a longtube forward facing 16g, super high compression on methanol. If he swaps on a 14b ever, which I believe has been considered, that would take the cake! It's VERY quick/fast though.)
enough pictures...put that shit on and get to work!! :D
Will soon enough. Have to meet a customer for real "work" today. Tomorrow is a big shindig at my house. Serving ~40 adults plus kids for food, drinks and big bonfire:D Install will have to wait.
yeah, get to work! (runs away due to hypocrisy of statement.)
Well, my 2 yr old got ahold of the box. An injector clip is hiding somewhere very well. Guess I need to see if I can order one from FIC.
Was late when I got home after a long day of travel and wasn't thinking clearly. Should've taken box to the garage instead of leaving it in plain sight! At least it's only the clip that's missing and not an injector. Although he did take one out of the ziplock bag. Can't blame him. They do look nice and I couldn't wait to touch them either:D
Edit: found it. Back in business.
Some of the tools needed to properly rebuild trans:
7mm(5sp) allan socket, snap ring pliers, 10mm, 12mm, 13m, pick, very small flat blade, Punch,
hammer (metal and soft plastic dead blow), Fine/Sharp edge bearing
separator (OTC (1123) Bearing Splitter - 1/2" to 4-5/8"), Fine edge Race
puller (Kent-Moore PN: DT-47865) and Slide Hammer (OTC 4579 9-Way
Slide Hammer Puller Set)
And a 20 ton press.
Did a 60k over the weekend for a local, he drove it here like this, got lucky.
Attachment 7362
Attachment 7363
Lower timing cover was in 3 different pieces, the last guy only replaced the belt. Hydraulic tensioner was fully compressed.
Yikes!
Installed FIC2150's, new injector connectors, and tucked the injector wiring.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k...%2B%282%29.JPG
So far I can't get them to idle as well as the PTE 1000s (which are for sale; set of 6:)). I'll keep working on it. Haven't tried playing with injector advance yet.
Also installed HKS DLI and opened up the plug gap. That helped the idle some but still not great. Everything is working well in boost. Beat on it for awhile and tweaked the fueling to hit my targets. Raising timing next.:onthego:
Nice garden hose fuel line. Is that -8 or -10?
-8 with wire cover over it so may look a little bigger than normal. Gotta feed the 14Beast!
Hmm..PTE1000s you say? :suspect:
Trying to sell these 880s and hold out for something bigger. Worried that on E85 they'll be nearly tapped out and would require upgrading if I upsize from 14Bs down the road.
That said, selling all these parts to get a Series 2 is priority. Once that's done I'll worry bout injector choice.
They were/are good injectors, but just not going to get it done for next year.
Spent 2 days cutting then polishing my car. The spoiler had faded out to white and the rear left qtr faded completely as well. This pic is 2 years old. It got twice as bad between now and then. Forgot to take recent ones.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps05572768.png
Went to this.
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6dsb3393.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc03twgv6.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psejxcn6pg.jpg
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psictlgn9b.jpg
Then this happened 500kms from my house :(
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psd007c551.jpg
which was caused by this...... After 50k kms the bolt holding the timing belt tensioner pulley came loose sending the pulley through the side of the timing cover and the lovely sound of valves hitting the pistons........
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...psf85ce6b9.jpg
Also this happened. long post.... but worth the read
Well we had 2 GTO's break down on this trip........ I think I am cursed. After we left Bruthen, John Howe [throwawayfool] and I headed back over the Great Alpine Road heading back to his house. We got half an hour out of Bruthen and the car died. Just cut out while cruising down a hill. Still had over to everything and the car would crank but not start. Found blown ECU fuse. Had no tools. No mobile reception and no spare fuses...... I found the AC fan was the right size so we took the 20amp fuse from that and put it in the ECU slot. took the 15amp fuse from the fog lights to use for the fan. Car started and we were on our way. 15 mins later it died again. This time we were really fucked cus we had no 20amp fuses left to use or shuffle. A local driving past stopped and took John into town. Bought 4 packets of fuse but that was all they had and it only contained 4 20A fuses. The local gave us about 7 25amp fuses and we got going again. Lasted 10 mins. New fuse. Lasted 5 mins.... new fuse. Got to Omeo and all the shops were closed and we were fast running out of fuses. It did one weird thing where it stopped but hadn't blown the fuse so it started up again..... We started really worrying then because what ever was failing was now failing without blowing a fuse.
Initially thought to be unrelated his car had a bad flat spot whre it would stutter and carry one but was fine under or above that point. It seemed identical to when my fuel pump resistor relay was failing and there was a delay between switching from high to low voltage. After blowing the 8th fuse right on the top of Hotham starting to head down again we realised it only seemed to happen when going slow or the revs where low. I checked and the mechanic who hotwired the fuel pump forgot to bypass the fuel pressure regulator relay which was causing the stutter/flat spot. I also suspected it was causing our issues and when it was switching between high and low voltage it was shorting out somehow. I also noticed the mechanic relocated it and it was getting hit by the weight on the gear shifter. So it's possible it was getting crushed by the weight and caused it to bend etc and short out. In the glove box I found an unused stereo adapter loom and ripped it apart. I used the wires to make a jumper and bypassed the relay. Replaced fuse number 9 and headed off with the aim to never let the revs drop below 3000rpm. We managed to get all the way to his work in Wodonga. We picked up his Land Rover and drove to the caltex. Picked up a tandem trailer then headed to his house. Finally home and in bed by 12:30.
So without John my car would still be stuck in Bright........ without me John would still be stuck on the Great Alpine Road with no phone reception
Eventually got my car loaded up on the trailer in Bright. Got home to my house at 4:30 and unloaded.
Put the carbon fiber hood on it, installed a boost gauge, and Mbc. 12 psi feels much better than 5.
Say it ain't so, Joe! At least your car looks good now... You planning to rebuild?
Last night I worked on my car for about 20 minutes. I ran out of Argon a few days prior and then ran out of mig wire last night and was welding steel too thin for stick. That ended last night pretty quickly.
Finally got a chance to button up the lower half of the car after I installed the motor/trans. Right off the bat noticed the boots were torn on the ball joints. Ordered new ones and when I went to put them on I thought now is the time to install the Stedeban Poly bushing I bought F*CKING 10 YEARS AGO.......LoL
Now I just have to decide whether to get the lower control arms cross members, etc PowderCoated or just clean them up and give them a quick gloss black spray paint.
Masterseries AG111 coating with the silver undercoat.. I'll be doing a brief demo video here in the next few days to show it off. It can be brushed on or spryed on, more durable than spray paint and is easily touched up (unlike powder coat.)
Get a quart of the silver undercoatand a quart of the AG111 top coat for like 35 bucks.
Very interesting from what I just researched on it. But where you getting it for $35 a quart. I only foind it on they're web site for $65 + $15 shipping.
MasterSeries AG 111- Gloss Black Chassis Kit- $64.95 - MasterSeries Coatings
Sorry, ahouldve specified. You get the quart of undercoat, mother quart of top coat plus reducer. Averages out to about 35 quart for each one of the products, didn't mean both quarts for 35 total.
(As opposed to like 45 a quart with shipping purchased individually.)
Started modifying a 2nd gen foglight switch to mount my rotary knob from my LCD boost controller install.
Well..let's see: bought a series2 ecu, sold some stuff, going to pick up a four bolt block and some other stuff Thursday.
Hoping t have some time this weekend to pull out the remaining crap in the engine bay and get stuff cleaned off under the car for the coating.
Been trying to find alternatives to paying $170 for the super pro bushing for the control arm..looks more and more like pouring my own is my only option. Found an evo1-6 bushing that might've worked, but has a metal shell, and you'd already have to keep the factory metal outer shell in place as well so idk. Beyond that, some pan hard bar bushings that were reasonably close, but..meh. Need to measure bushings for the rear subframe and order the ninja AWS delete. Been hard to keep quiet about it, saw it a while back. Very high quality ish.
Pop-up headlight switch on 1st gen and a blank on 2nd gens.
Ahh yes, I have my blank replaced with a switch already...
Blank you say?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...fa551986f5e59e
Got the flashable pulled out of the car, pretty much as far as I made it. Still have to get the wires out of the OBD1 port, but otherwise it's ready to go to its new home.
Still trying to get parts sold, but GPU fan took a shit on my desktop and the waterblock I ordered to replace it and add to water cooling loop doesn't fit despite manufacturer saying it would so I'm stuck using my laptop to get shit done. Bad time for projects and shit for school stuff. Going tomorrow morning to pick up the four bolt block that'll get built eventually. Hoping to get ahead on HW so that I can spend this weekend getting everything else ready to coat everything, but unlikely to happen. On the bright side, the list of parts I need/want to buy for this rebuild keeps shrinking. AWS, ABS delete and poly bushings are the main things left aside from the trans rebuild. Anything else would just be gravy.
Figured out my flash ecu has the 02 sensor wires/jumper swapped internally. Swapped the wires on my boomslang harness for front and rear 02 as well as replaced both older 02s with fresh Densos. And all is good. :) Now I'm just hoping I can make it work nicely with my ARC2 - I'm going to give it a good effort.
Got some fresh looking TD04 DNP 02 pipes and BC 264s in the mail.
Made a wire harness for my SSI-4 to pull in my 3x AEM gauge's output into the innovate log chain I already have with the other 3x Innovate gauges.
facepalm.