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New compressor to go with a new impact wrench..60 gallon, 7hp peak (about 3hp constant) good for 15cfm @40psi and 11cfm@90psi.
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New FMIC set up so that I get running in the spring for the cheap. Spent very little on it, and will eventually go SMIC and custom piping, but satisfied enough for now. Painted a satin black so that it hopefully hides as I'd like to keep this sneaky sneaky if possible, don't like advertising what I've got.
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Cleared room to get the engine pushed inside the house. I'll put it back together this winter, but not enough room to keep it in the garage with the car in there and every other project.
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Waterneck is drilled (and has since been tapped) for the 3/8NPT for the AN conversion...3/8NPT ended up being bigger than I wanted, but too late now. Ended up having to epoxy the fittings in, hopefully powder coat clings over the top of it.
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New twin plate flywheel is here, just have to pick out what I'm wanting to do as far as my clutch selection and throw it together. Thinking the Quartermaster HD Gear drive..Supports more HP than the standard QM twin, the gear drive arrangement reduces twin plate chatter that you normally get and is basically as close as I can get to the newer QM 8 leg.
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Working out plans to make a body dolly so I can roll the car in and out of the garage as I need room. Leaning towards 2" square tubing. Should support the weight pretty easily. Ideally I'd like to make it long enough to bolt directly to the body (via front and rear subframe mounts) and have it built about 18"-2" off the ground but that may not be viable as it needs to be low enough for the jack to be able to lift and lower it.
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Subframe pulled out, all the pieces of the driveshaft are disconnected..All the bolts for the AWS system have been undone so I am ready to pull it whenever I want.
Bad news, from the mark on the driveshaft, looks like it was rubbing at some point and may be pointing towards rear diff bushings needing replaced. Now facing the dilemma of figuring out solid vs poly vs OEM for the rear diff, and then what to use for the rest of the rear subframe later on. Contemplating solid rear diff and poly subframe, but worried that may make for a very uncomfortable ride in something that is supposed to be GT-esque. I would think that maybe OEM diff with poly subframes would be enough to stop movement and not be unbearably bad. Fair amount of metal shavings on the drain plug, gear oil was black as hell so likely the first time it has ever been changed. Going to have to open the pumpkin up and check out the rear diff to make sure it's still in workable shape.
At this point, thinking I may just disassemble this and get it media blasted, then powder coat it with the TN3S oven this winter. Adjustable control arms and AWS delete are needed, which will clean up some of this mess, but the rest I'd like to get redone before putting it all back together.
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I'm going to do solid rear diff bushings. The diff moved around so much especially on worn out bushings. It's crazy when you see it on your own car. I have some solid subframe bushings but may go with poly since the solids could transmit more vibration. At least the solid rear diff bushings contain it to the subframe assembly where it gets canceled out at the stock subframe bushings mounted to the body. I know a few have run both solid rear and subframe bushings. Maybe they can comment on the ride.
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Reading on that other forum has provided a few insights, namely that full solid rears feels like sitting on the road due to vibration and noise, and a few with solid rear diff bushings have said it created a noise. Contemplating going Bloodlusts route and modifying some poly bushings to fit. Seems like a good middle ground for now. If I don't like them, I can always sell them to go back to OEMs or move up to solids.
Total cost to DIY Poly's would be around 60 bucks or so, very doable. Once I set up the new compressor I can get out the impact and bust the subframe apart to check the actual bushings.
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Worked on getting this all apart today, but ran out of time. Need to give the rear ball joints a few good whacks with a pickle fork to break it apart, but otherwise almost all the nuts and bolts are loose for quick disassembly. This should let me drag pieces up to the front of the garage individually to be cleaned and inspected before being primed and painted. If it looks like a disaster in that pictures, that's because it is.
Next time I roll the subframe out (likely tomorrow night) should be the last time it's in one piece until I put it all back together.
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This arrived Saturday, will be going on eventually. Goal is to eventually try to provide back to back to back kind of VD testing with various intake/maf set ups to see gains and losses, as well as changes in boost response.
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^ Interested to see how the MAFT Pro turns out as I'm looking at it as an option as well
