@ 5 lbs, only hood it could be is the dry carbon Cianci victory that only like 5 were made.
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@ 5 lbs, only hood it could be is the dry carbon Cianci victory that only like 5 were made.
And even then, fitment not guaranteed. yikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman
We worked HARD on that....Quote:
Originally Posted by IPD
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_0710.jpg
Bob. :)
I have corbeau RRS seats ordered already from Maximal. Those weigh 26 pounds a piece plus brackets. So if the brackets are 7 pounds each, that's 66 pounds worth of seat. I was going to weigh my stock seats, but assuming they really are 112 pounds that is 56 pounds of savings. I still need to remove my ecs computer, and the abs computer. Maybe 4 pounds there. My corner sub box and mdf floor is still in the car. I can remove it easily but then my meth tank wouldn't be supported at all. I want to make something for the track. That would be maybe 40 pounds more savings.
I still have the front bumper beam side pieces on my car. The aluminum bar is gone but the sides are pretty heavy. Maybe 10 more pounds there. And I'd buy a cianci carbon fiber sunroof and hood right now if someone could guarantee me fitment. Even the early versions of the hood people had rubbing problems on the strut towers. I don't want to chance it just yet. If someone buys the moda r6 wheels I have for sale then I may gamble with the cianci stuff.
It's really hard to make a car light and not feel gutted. I definitely will never lose the a/c or power steering.
These are what the corbeau's will look like, only I'm using my stock seat belts.
http://s3mag.com/blog/wp-content/upl...90612135_o.jpg
ECS computer is ounces, ABS computer not more than a pound (plastic housing with a circuit board in it)
Hood fitment guarantee? LOL
Good luck Charlie :)
Bob.
My seats weigh in at 25lbs each..plus brackets. Please keep me posted on your quest to remove weight...Once I iron out my translator issues I will attack the weight scale viciously to shed the last bit of weight from my car. I'm hoping to hit the scale again before winter hits.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfalcon94
Eric, I think you have an exceptional case for a hood. Most that I've seen come in the 20lb range. Donnie's car also was built from scratch which is also an exceptional case.
just got the corbeu bucket seat and it's way too narrow across shoulders.
And I ordered the XL version. Waist could be tighter, shoulder needs to be broader.
These seats are made for pear shaped people :p
Guess I should go to a store where I can try the seats before :) Way overpriced here compared to UK though.
precisely. it's almost where you'd want to buy only FG & have a custom shop add/shave material so it has a good fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman
FWIW, i'm not completely unhappy with how my scoote2 fits, but there are bulges where i've got low-pressure shocks. I'm not sure if they're from the low pressure shocks or what. pins/aerocatch might actually help fix that...but IDK. I'm leaning more towards stock hood w/ expertly-cut vents or something. maybe go full ghetto & do deuce-coupe style louvers across the entire hood.
Installed:DQuote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ange
No idea which hood. Bought it used and in rough shape. It's a 1g, stock style, no fluff. It is VERY thin. Both the main skin and the support structure are very light weight. It's not a looker or robust, but it's light. It will eventually get painted, which will kill the weight savings with added weight of primer, base and clear...lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by anyonebutme
edit: 5.5 lbs ;)
Whatever it is Eric, it needs more boost.
Don't recall that being the one you had on it last time I was that way. Vent it yet, or is that not much of an issue with the 4g63 arrangement?
Just installed the hood Sunday. Have had it and the fiberglass hatch in a box for 3 years and finally got to the hood. Hatch is next after I get a sheet of tinted lexan to install.
No extractor vent on this one (too much cracking issues since I have to section it to fit). I do have a potential project up my sleeve though. Need to order parts and start mocking it up. I'm a form and function guy so it has to have both. Was reading some aero research papers last night. Function is up in the air at this point. Form will be easy to determine once I order the parts. Unfortunately it seems function may have to be tested on my car for my specific application to determine and once I cut a hole in my hood it will be a PITA to put it back:D Oh well, hasn't stopped me before!
Sounds like NACA ducts are in your future for a low drag high airflow solution.
Ever consider making using your original hood as a base and laying new fiberglass over the top of it to make a mold then working backwards from that? Would give you your vent built in, and hopefully be less likely to crack. Even with 3-4 layers thick, would still be a fraction of the weight of the OEM hood.
I think the skeleton underneath would be the hard part. And getting a flush edge. A shop near me just started making cf roofs for imprezas using this method. You can look them up on fb by searching for "kale's custom." I've dealt with some fiberglass in the wood strip canoes I've made. This is the kayak I'm working on. I could make a wood strip hood that wouldn't need reinforcing underneath. IDK what kind of affect the heat would have on it.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pspzpq2czi.jpg
Good guess:). Thinking naca duct, turbo intake for some forced, forced induction. Lol. The headlight inlets are good for 2-3lbs/min. Not sure if naca would do the same because of turbulence (unfortunately research says it's hit or miss as well). May not be worth the trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
I'd certainly try it on an OEM hood with tuft testing before cutting on the fiberglass one
Yeah thought about using the OEM hood that has the hole for the vent. Just need to seal up the current vent hole first.
I'm keeping my original hood unscathed and stored. Donniekak donated the extra hood for the extractor vent several years ago.
I've contemplated my options for venting and ducting the 2g hood, hard to find stuff that flows with the body lines as well though. Did quite a bit of research on the NACA ducts as I considered turning the side skirts into functional NACA ducting for the rear brakes, however ran into the same issues you did (hard to predict exactly how it'll go until it's done.)
All my rear subframe stuff is disconnected, I can now roll the subframe in and out as I please (left the wheels on so I could do so since space is at a premium.) Lot of bad discoveries under there..Misc wiring, rust, and what appears to be rubberized undercoating from a can that still hasn't dried (I've owned the car 3+ years) as it looks wet and wipes off on me. Have to figure out a safe way to elevate the car further so that I can wire wheel it all off, lay down some Por15 for rust conversion and then top with a real sound deadener/undercoating.
daily drove my car for the past 2 days...
Got my new rims mounted.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...pshphsav1f.jpg
Amr's?
Nope sir XXRQuote:
Originally Posted by Boomer3000
Big improvement! That looks great
Receive your new Stealth yet? :eagerness:Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
What did I miss?????Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
Me to, about 5,000 miles.......... Well not 2 days, but 8-9.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
I think Nomie got himself a super clean 1GQuote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Installed factory PCV inline before the front (only) krank vent. So far smoking issue seems better, fingers crossed. Watching forecast, want to hit the strip tomorrow night if it doesn't rain...
Well...I didn't buy it...I told my buddy about it who bought it. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
But yes, he did get the car...although I haven't seen it yet.
Im a 3000GT guy...haha
Does he have any plans for it? or keep it stock?
friends don't let friends drive stock...its gonna be a mildly bolted td04 car..
ftfy.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
That's all the further I take these cars when I own them.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
yep..Eric told me about your philosophy...and I agree. These cars are best enjoyed when modded moderately. Otherwise they become too expensive too quick...Quote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
1. Fixed an oil leak.
2. Actually installed an air filter on 14b, not because I wanted to be nice to it...I just needed to add my intake pipe that has fittings for crank case evac to see if it would mitigate the junk-motor blow-by. Seemed to work okay.
3. Beat the crap out of it tonight. Several launches, 3rd gear pull, 4th gear half pull. Several runs up through the gears. Couldn't break it and I tried.
Power drops noticeably at 5k when boost nose dives. Stupid 6cm hotside and tiny compressor is way too small for a 2.4l! Need more powaa!
Interesting 4g oil pressure data....fully warmed up idle pressure 25psi (10w40). Beat on it with no oil cooler....still 25psi :D
This is with an engine that has had way too much ferrous metal cleaned out of the pan (twice) after I got it. Previous owner rebuild it. I speculate rod pieces and not a good clean up job. BTW, still rocking the bearings it came with! (I don't imagine it can live forever with this abuse but that's what the other block is for:))
A buddy fixed my power windows today!!!
Busted wire harness in the door jamb?
Not totally sure. The relay was acting up too so we wired a new fused wire to the switch to power it bypassing relay and jam. Works.
Adjusted exhaust so it doesn't hang as low then cruised with the windows down to a neighboring towns folk festival. Swapped stock hood back on. Can't rock a ratty carbon hood. Parked it at a friends to sit and look pretty....
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...%2B%283%29.JPG
You can't tell from this pic, but if you look at my sig pic, the tip of the muffler now touches the top of the opening instead of a couple inches below.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...%2B%282%29.JPG