FIC 750's flowing 840cc's (yes that's right, FIC cleaned and flow tested them and sent them back to me like that!!) an AEM E85 fuel pump and NGK iridium plugs (9's) all done today.... just filled up on e85 and tuned. Runs like a champ!!
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FIC 750's flowing 840cc's (yes that's right, FIC cleaned and flow tested them and sent them back to me like that!!) an AEM E85 fuel pump and NGK iridium plugs (9's) all done today.... just filled up on e85 and tuned. Runs like a champ!!
I did this today.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFDiY2iBTHk
Stock LS2... I didn't realize I had beat him that badly until I watched the video lol.
MITOSKA shift boot! Now I must replace other stuff so it looks equally good!
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...092926_962.jpg
Picked up an ATR down pipe, ATR high flow cat, and some Torque Max precat eliminators. Had about 10k on them. Also just purchased a tubular front exhaust mani from Gil. I am very pleased with the quality of the ATR /torque max parts. They feel very well made, and the precat eliminators have the stock heat shield tabs welded on! Score!
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psg57nkl7o.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psivc1nv2z.jpg
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Placed an order for AN6 to NPT fittings and AN6 to metric fittings for a bigger coolant crossover for the TD05s.
Placing my order in the next week or two for the SCE center diff, as well as ordering the new wiring bulkhead for my personal fuel sender conversion.
I will get you my addy for when that diff needs shipped!Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
That's okay, I can just copy it off of the envelope you send my check for $2500 in first :p
Damn you!
Started picking pieces from a twin disc clutch set up. Car won't be seeing much (if any) stop and go traffic, so might as well. When in Rome and what not.
Probably going to go cerametallic, but hoping that the flywheel will be compatible with QMa 8 leg set up. Have a buddy with an Evo8 and an 8 leg, definitely quieter and easier than his old Tilton unit was.
Seems like cost overkill for your goals. I ran an xtd stg 4 (unsprung 6 puck) with zero issues launching on the street or holding 500awtq.
No track launches but I don't think that's much of a concern for your intended use, even though I see no reason it wouldn't hold.
I should just rename the car Project Overkill. :D
From all of the bad reviews on the expensive clutches, I don't see the appeal for the power levels you'll be running. Nothing exotic is needed and reliability will be improved. Seriously, eBay clutch FTW.
Im gonna get an XTD when the trans goes back on...KISS
defiantly I wouldn't go with a tilton style clutch for a street car with 500AWHP. They have to be measured for wear and shimmed periodically, it isn't something very driver friendly.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
The only thing I do not like about the heavy big single disk clutches is they seem to slow shifting, at least for me. I have a fully rebuilt trans and with my southbend fe disc and ACT mb019 pressure plate I really have to kick the clutch hard and time things perfectly to nail really good shifts. With the stock disc you could be a lot lazier and it still shifted easier.
I was actually looking at the RPS new carbon carbon design, but if my clutch is working ok I can't see spending that kinda dough unless it made the transmission a lot easier to live with. It might be easier to just go six puck, but I sure like the driveability of a full face.
I wrecked the 97! :(
Not too bad, only left a smudge in the front bumper cover, and a perfectly round burn ring from the exhaust of the victim in front of me... :suspect:
Clutch? You mean those things for people who are so addicted to their smartphones that having a shifter stuck in the hand is the only way you can get them to drive safely? :awesome:
Yesterday I went out to my 91's coma home. Uncovered it and hosed it down with Wasp killer as the nest attached to the drivers side door was massive. I shook my head and wondered why I was so frustrated with it in the first place. So I checked the fluids and everything was as good as new since it was just changed before I parked it. I pulled my Ram up to it, hooked up the cables, jumped inside, turned the key and she fired up and purred like a kitten save the exhaust leak at the Cat. I let it run for about 30 minutes before I pulled it around to hose off the dust and garbage. Then I took it out.
I didn't get after it but listened as the turbo's came to life and got a small grin on my face. My tags had been dead since 2013 and I didn't want to push it with the locals so I went back to the house. I decided parking it in front of the house would either bring in a passerby who might make an offer or piss my wife off enough to let me have the funds to repaint it.
Today I contacted a local guy who sent me a message on here a while back. I'm hoping he can help me reset the SRS. Maybe, just maybe I can get this thing through inspection. Then I remembered the box sitting in the back seat. Shit.....the front engine mount that needs to be replaced. Am I going to be able to do this without pulling the entire car apart again? Well screw it. Should only have to pull the radiator right? :ambivalence:
So my updated checklist runs as follows:
Install new mount-Crap
Bleed brakes again and check drivers side front rotor(feels like it's slow)-Easy
Fix exhaust leak-I really wish I had a lift
Why isn't my Speedo working again?-Cable at the transmission end?
SRS Light on-Hoping it's a battery issue
Windshield fluid motor-yeah need a new one
All in all.....I guess aside from the mount these are little things. There's alot more I gotta do to it but if I'm gonna turn this back into a daily driver these gotta get fixed first.
Act pressure plates are notorious for high rpm lockout. A good pressure plate, and unsprung hub disk are the best shifting singles. My spec stage 3 pressure plate, and xtd disk setup was the fastest shifting single I've been in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Interesting Donnie, I had not heard anything bad about the ACT stuff. I just bought an ACT 6-puck with the sprung disc and I have an RPS Max PP with the 6 puck unsprung in the car right now. I figure I'll leave this clutch in until it acts ups.
TeotwawkiL The front motor mount is not too bad. Way easier than the rear at least. If you take the radiator out there's quite a bit of room to work with.
I didn't do squat to my cars today, but I did replace the alternator in my wife's SAV (Suburban Assault Vehicle) - AKA - 2002 Chrysler Town and Country.
Her battery light came on yesterday a couple of times, so I dug into it today. Static battery voltage seemed OK at 12.4 volts. Started it and the meter was all over the map...13.6, 13.0, 13.3, 12.8...figured for sure it was the alternator...
Took the POS out, took to the local O'reillys to give them a core. For shits and grins I had them test it. 3 times in a row it tested good (WTF?) The counter guy said "bring the battery in and I'll test it", so I went back got the battery.
He put it on his mini tester, looked up at me and said "It says it's good, just needs a charge" DOH!
He put the battery on their charger and I went home to wait for results (said about an hour). Called and he said the battery was good, had about 1/4 of its life left (BULLSHIT, I just bought that battery in January), so I went up, told him to keep my core alternator and PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE sell me a new (reman) alternator for $180..he happily did.
Install went off with no minor issues, voltage with SAV running is now a pretty solid 14.0 volts.
What did we learn today? Never trust auto parts testing. In car testing gives much BETTER results.
Carry on, nothing to see here....
Bob. :)
Yeah it shouldn't give me too much grief. I'll probably get into it later this week.Quote:
Originally Posted by DK77
Today I cleaned frogs out of the side skirts. Don't ask cause I don't know. It rained like crazy yesterday and they congregated there.
I helped out a guy that traveled two hours to get a tune. He had a shop do a smoke test but it had so many vacuum and boost leaks that we gained around 100hp. We had to install a few check valves he didn't realize he had taken out when he was replacing hoses. One of the brake booster hoses didn't have the check valve in it and that was the worse.
We also maxed out the 800cc injectors at 20 psi on E85 running DR-650s. We bumped up the fuel pressure and retuned for 22 psi. At that point the Spec clutch would get hot enough sometimes on the pulls it occasionally slipped so he'll be getting a RPS clutch.
I'm not very sold on the champion race plugs. Trevor recommended them to him because they work together on airplanes, but idle would occasionally miss and WOT was a little pickier misfiring on ethanol. It cut out real bad in the 10s. 11.8 to 12.1 AFR seemed to work the best for the cleanest pull. He was a happy camper at the end of the day with the car running like a champ. :)
The wife and I went for a hike in the foothills yesterday and on the way I had to stop and snap a pic. Could be washed again but considering its a DD and its rained briefly basically every day last week i dont think its too bad.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pshahenj99.jpg
Maybe these will help. I finally had a chance to wash the grime off the car and snap some new pictures. These shots still came from a cell phone camera but I provided multiple shots with the wing both up and down.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps9074e2e4.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...pse24f0e09.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ps4b12f55d.jpg
And just for reference here is the old wing the up position during the NG13 Auto-X
DSC_8571.jpg
As you can see, the new wing sits up higher and is both longer and wider.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...2f91abac01.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by 95gto
Attachment 7090
Wrapping up VSS project. Has been long road, hoping to start her up tomorrow.... Seasons are short up here, hope to get some road time before....you know....
Powder coating was done through Terry @ Maximal Performance. I am real happy how it turned out, will be happier to drive it again!
Do you think my oil pan is dented?
Attachment 7093
This is what happens when you hit a power steering pump that falls off the car being towed in front of you. Only took me a few months to get motivated to start swapping the new pan.
Cleaned the tips. Turned out great. Mitoska sent me one last week, one of mine fell off!! New stainless fasteners should keep them there a while.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...829_180738.jpg
Made plans, finally towing the car up to the new house tomorrow. Very excited.
Finally did something with a 3S besides drive the boring one. Moved the project from the driveway into the grass so the driveway can get paved. Woohoo.
At least it fired right up with a jump. eBay timing belt kit from about 9 years ago. Sitting since last year. Went through a bad wreck. Whatever.
On the plus side, I go pick up my custom clutch setup and repaired Spec 4+ tomorrow, then I start putting the VR4 back together! :)
Trying to figure out a solution for being able to move the car in the driveway and still able to drop the steering rack and rear subframe and stuff, thinking some thick angle iron like the width of the car with a few casters on each front and back, but that doesn't really provide me a way to attach it to the vehicle. Hiring a mobile welder to tack weld it into place is an option, but not sure it'd be worth it unless I had him weld the head light buckets into place as well and just knock that shit all out at once.
Been a busy 3S week....
Sorted through piles of unmarked bolts and parts bins to put a members car back together and got it to fire up for the first time in years (after fixing a swapped cam situation in the front bank...I didn't build engine or do the original timing;))
Bought a spare 4g64 block to build on the side. Kelford 280/288 Cams came in along with kiggly valve springs and kiggly flexplate.
Since I have a brand new 4g63 head already for the good cams and big build, I decided to patch together the junk parts so I can keep driving it and test out the jays racing alt relocation kit with my modded 3S alt to fit the kit.....So.....I JB welded a gash in junk head that was right through the fire ring sealing area. (looks like someone got careless with a tool or set the head on something). Bolted it back on with a new timing belt and adjustable cam gears....and gave it hell! (Well, as much hell as a dying 14b can give;)) Multiple wot 3rd gear pulls and even a brake boosted auto launch...amazingly, no coolant push:D Previously, it also didn't like sustained speed interstate cruising , so I still need to test that. Well, after I fix an intermittent mfi/fuel pump priming issue that a new mfi relay didn't fix:(.
I need to get back out there and go for another ride in it since you've fixed that fuel cut/boost limit issue you had last time lol
Still a pretty fun ride.
I raced a turbo Cobalt that runs 110+ traps up at Bandimere with 8000+ft DA. That's like 116 at sea level. My buddy that rode with me assumed there was something he did wrong because he didn't expect me to smoke him that bad. He had 4 cameras too, so there should be a nice high quality vid of it coming soon.
Come on up for a ride!Quote:
Originally Posted by sergechronos
VD says 250awhp through auto. No idea how accurate that is since I'm guessing on weight and auto messed with VD a bit. It moves decent until 5500 rpm. Haven't really played with timing much but that little 6cm 14b housing is probably choking the 2.4 a bit up top.
Might be a while now that classes are back in session but next time I head that way I'll drop by.
What's the big not turbo plan after the 14b dies? FP Red?
Hope the 14b survives long enough to take my time building the long block for the real turbo....HX40. Good for 70 lb/min and has done over 700awhp in a manual.
If 14b dies before the new engine is done or before I break this engine, then I'll get another 14b for $50-100.
get a 16g...
Don't listen to Nomiez. All the cool kids rock 14Bs :suspect: