So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

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Originally Posted by Greg E

You already have all the goodies. Just don't understand what you have yet. ;)

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hahaha...:p

I need a step by step tutorial on your (the chrome) tuning philosophy...im bored of only being able to run 13lbs of boost due to knock...but at the same time don't want to grenade this whole setup it took me so long to put together either...:)

First things first...according to you..

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Start with the VE table. Log 2 byte airflow, 2 byte load, RPM, your wideband and the fuel table lookup AFR. Compare the wideband numbers you see to the fuel table. Adding more VE gives more fuel. Less leans out the mixture. It works kind of like an SAFC. This is what takes the most time and since every single car is unique, I can't even give you a good base map.

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I'll get a datalog with the listed parameters and we will go from there. Should I start a new thread? I feel like I'm just unnecessarily cluttering this one..I'm sure the questions I'm asking others aren't too far behind either...it would be nice to have a dedicated thread to it...

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Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4

hahaha...:p

I need a step by step tutorial on your (the chrome) tuning philosophy...im bored of only being able to run 13lbs of boost due to knock...but at the same time don't want to grenade this whole setup it took me so long to put together either...:)

First things first...according to you..

I'll get a datalog with the listed parameters and we will go from there. Should I start a new thread? I feel like I'm just unnecessarily cluttering this one..I'm sure the questions I'm asking others aren't too far behind either...it would be nice to have a dedicated thread to it...

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That's probably best. :)

For the future version of Chrome, I suggest to add "speed conditions" to the custom pin 35 output, the idea is to wire the active aero on it ;)

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Originally Posted by dyter

For the future version of Chrome, I suggest to add "speed conditions" to the custom pin 35 output, the idea is to wire the active aero on it ;)

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Sure!

Doesnt the active aero have its own computer? Couldn't you just wire the speed output over to that on the harness adaptor?

Because if the front active aero is removed, the rear won't work. With this tip you can remove the control unit and choose your speed for get up the rear aero ! 2 relays and wires is needed for this tip ...

Just swapped out my ’95 Fed ECU with a ’99 ECU purchased from Brett. Chromed the ECU with V2 and disabled the following bits under Periphery2 as a common procedure for ’95 and earlier models:

bit. 15 P0443, P0446, P0403, P1104, P1105 Solenoids Test – Off
bit. 11 P0135, P0141 P0155, P0161 O2 Heater Test - Off
bit. 10 P1400 MAP Sensor Test - Off
bit. 09 P0403 EGR Solenoid Test
bit. 03 P0136, P0156 Front Rear Secondary O2 Sensor – Off

Now, most of the CELs are gone except P1300 Ignition Timing Adjustment Circuit Malfunction. Not able to find Periphery bit for this CEL. Is this a common problem for a ’95 Fed model?

After everything are ready. Started up the car and got 17-18 A/F ratio during idle and cruise. Logged via EvoScan2.9 on both Front O2 (3E) & Rear O2 (13). Front O2 tends to stay around 0.01952V and fluctuates to 0.03904 if I blip the gas pedal. Rear O2 tends to stay between 0.89792-0.95648V. At the same time, Front O2 (STFT) logged with 12.5% steady and Rear O2 (STFT) logged with -15% steady. Forget about F&R (LTFT) as they both are crazy too.

Re-flashed ECU by disabling Periphery0, bit.02 Dual Narrowband Fuel Bank Trim (basically, front O2 sensor). Now the ECU runs only on the Rear O2 for all 6 injectors. The A/F shows around 13.9 – not too bad. Logged both Front O2 (3E) & Rear O2 (13). Front O2 stays around 0.8xxxxV. Rear O2 now swings between 0-0.9V (perfectly normal).

Before I swapped my ’95 Fed ECU, my A/F ratio stays between 14.6-14.8. In another word, both my O2 sensors are in good shape.
Can someone please help/advice?
Jim

Did I give you V2? I don't recall seeing you on the donation list.

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Originally Posted by dyter

Because if the front active aero is removed, the rear won't work. With this tip you can remove the control unit and choose your speed for get up the rear aero ! 2 relays and wires is needed for this tip ...

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You can also just run an active aero aimulator for the front and not have to worry about this.

An early beta of chrome had the speedo as a test bit for the custom pin outputs but I took it out later on as I couldn't think of any real world scenario where it could be used. It's easy to put that back in.