^^^ lol
Metal was melted in specific fashion today...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps60a795eb.jpg
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^^^ lol
Metal was melted in specific fashion today...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps60a795eb.jpg
My eyes hurt just from looking at the picture :lol:
Wired in hd radio receiver.
PB soaked fuel lines by fuel pump.
Thought about ordering new hood struts.
whew
I have some good used hood struts if you want to go that route. I sell them for $25 plus shipping for the pair.Quote:
Originally Posted by TT4ME
Today I took a part a 1998-2000 DCC to replace the light covers. My car has red Leds instead of the stock amber. I also did this to the 2006 Outlander 6-DISC in dash Infinity radio. I got the various red silicon boots from McMaster Car.
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...98-2000DCC.jpg
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...6Outlander.jpg
Sorry I need to get a better picture of the deck the lights are very red / bright flash washed it out. Screen has a red tint to it but it's more clearish / blue since the buttons had the blue boots on them. Unlike the DCC I didn't see a set of black light bulbs.
Holy geekdom! Awesome. ..
Sent from the Man Cave!
*\( ^o^ )/*
Quote:
Originally Posted by bridge
Quality footage of the hydraulic tensioner @ various RPM's would be really cool...
So Needy. I was planning to do that as I'm interested in how much that guy moves. Yesterday I got the cooling system hooked up and the dry rotted injector o-rings replaced so I should be good to go. Its like -10 out so im not sure i feel like opening the garage door tonight. Where can i find some 3" high temp flexible hose.....Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
How high temp do you need it to support?Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddog
Grab some exhaust vent hose and a bilge fan. I put in a "dryer duct outlet" type self-closing vent outlet in the bottom section of my garage door, has a 4" pipe connection that I can hook a portable A/C unit to or hook up a 4" bilge fan and 4" shop exhaust tubing to to run vehicles indoors, Y'ed into 2 3" pieces.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddog
example:
Crushproof Tubing FLT300 3" X 11' Exhaust Hose by Crushproof Tubing | Toolfetch
Or you can use the aluminum flex crap for dryer ducts, the thicker stuff, as it's a lot cheaper or free in my profession, but doesn't last as long and gets ruined if you step on it or look at it wrong, lol.
Dummy gauges came in. Left is 3-3/8 right is 4". I think I will go with the chrome bezel and 4".
Goal is to keep all the idicators functioning. The 3-3/8 gauge will definitely fit with minor modification. The 4" is a very tight fit. Both have a 1" depth.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/tygepa5a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/e8epeda3.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/yju5y3up.jpg
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
Got a wheel alignment and fixed rear camber now that I have the adjustable camber arms. Installed one of the folding power mirrors. No wiring for them in my 1990 model. Will have to dissect the wiring diagrams and wire it myself.
Gaskets from ips came today so I finally bolted my new oil pump to the fresh block. Just need my rear main seal and I can finish up this bottom end.
Fixed this balls up :(
Attachment 6455
How the hell did the spring break like that?
God knows... Only 2 years old too ! Snapped bang in the middle . Had the wife and kids in the car doing around 60mph at the time. Small brown trouser moment !!Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
Which springs were those?
AVO springs which are pretty well known and good ones over here (usually !)
tried to stab the transmission again, this time with the help of my wife. it doesnt wanna go
Are you sure you're up for that after your accident? Get some really long bolts and cut off the heads and use them as studs to guide the trans in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by DuTTch
Probably not, as long as I lay there I am good lol, its getting up and moving makes me dizzy, I take my time. Tommorow Iam dropping the tranny again and putting in the clutch alignment tool make sure the clutch plate still lines up.I like your idea but its lining up pretty good except the input shaft lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
i cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. well, the first two cleans were actually on saturday. the last was sunday, and nothing as of yet today.
I did some more sanding & the final polishing on my lower intake plenum. I then finished it off with some Shark Hide metal protectant to seal it all in.
today I changed the horn buttons on my 95 base and rehooked up the stock horns. its working again woohooo
Ordered a set of wheels this morning. this afternoon I changed the oil and drained the catch can (talk about nasty, at least i know it works).
Got my rear main seal installed. Just need to mount the strainer and bolt on the pan, then this bottom end is good to go.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psd4008674.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps991bbd40.jpg
^ New pickup or used? you should resurface the face of the pickup flange, like with 4-600 grit on a piece of glass, prior to assembly as the bolt ears can be drooped from reuse-
Turning an ES into a nice 1G VR4? Well done sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Used, i cleaned the crap out of it, it took about 6 baths just because i was so picky about dirt/ contaminants. The flange was pretty nice, this is the first time this bottom end was taken apart so the ears seemed pretty fine. I went over them with a brass wire wheel (just the ears) because my razor would not cut the old gasket off the ears.Quote:
Originally Posted by Primus101
Haha, yea. Thanks man. It has been very slow going now that I have gotten to the engine. I will move onto the heads after i wrap up the bottom end. Going to lightly port them mostly to remove the flash and casting flaws. It will be a while before the TT is going in. Hell, i have not even decided what turbos to go with (400AWHP goal).Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
BTW would you guys recommend cleaning the inside of the pan with dawn dish soap and warm water? Ive sprayed half a can of brake cleaner in it but there is a brown residue still on the walls of the pan(sludge i guess). With a high of 46~50 today I think ill get the pan cleaned finally so I can bolt it on tonight.
there is no harm in that. I actually ran mine through the dishwasher.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Just oil it with something when you are done or it can rust where the coating is thin or gone.
Torqued down heads with the A1 studs and started on my wastegate dumps....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...25287%2529.JPG
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Unfortunately, I think final fitment will have to take place in the car, so that I can avoid all obstacles (subframe, subframe connector, axle, downpipe, etc). It should be good where it is, but want to get it below car and dump back towards rear. Read quite a few instances where dumping in engine bay dillutes o2 content so much that you can see drops of up to 100hp on a dyno (20-50 more common.) Of course, the purpose of doing this is to reduce back pressure post turbo, so I keep turbo more efficient and free up hp!
Combined with my modded downpipe (3.5" to 4" vband, from 3") back pressure post turbo should be as minimal as I can get with this setup and still run an exhaust. The rest of the exhaust will be 4" aluminum, which I connected to downpipe with vband.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...25281%2529.JPG
Crap, wish I had seen this..Mineral spirits and gasoline both do fantastic jobs of dissolving old oil sludge. To clean some of my parts up before paint or similar, I used mineral spirits (till I ran out, then used a bit of gas) and let it sit for a couple minutes, then hit it briefly with a stiff bristled brush, and then washed several times with dish detergent and water. As Gump pointed out, an application of oil (or immediate painting) is required to prevent rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodlust182
Looking good familyMAN!
Thanks:). Going to be a lot of fiddling in the car to make it fit which is disappointing. Much easier to do out of the car. I'll also want to fire it up as soon as engine makes it back in the car instead of more fabbing:D
Front Wastegate complete. Less room than I thought. Should fit.....
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4...25289%2529.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...25288%2529.JPG
Just need to trim off the bottom but a little mishap with the angle grinder/cutoff wheel ended with a cut powercord so I called it a night:redface-new: Haven't decided if I'm going to bring it back under pan and along downpipe a little or just cut it off.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...25288%2529.JPG
Getting better with the TIG....
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o...25288%2529.JPG
Very nice dude, very nice
Eric...its gonna take a magician to fit that thing into the engine bay...GOOD LUCK...you're gonna need it! :D
Not worried about the front. It doesn't sit any further forward than it did before and I had things to reference for measurements. Rear is the concern. I will make the rear fit, it's just a lot of work when it's already in the car and there was no way to figure out all the obstacles on the stand.