My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

Took the car out to Cars and Coffee this morning and the BSLCD is about useless. WBO2 does not update in realtime, looks to be updating every couple of seconds even with the WB wired directly into the BSLCD. Unit is still freezing up after driving for about 10 min or so. it does seem to periodically unfreeze itself but not for long. Did note that it I use the control knob when it is frozen up, once it unfreezes it seems to go to that screen or whatever screen it would be on depending on the know turns. Another problem that is going on now is after so long of it being frozen, the screen goes completely blank for a bit and then comes back on. It also looks to not be displaying the Boost pressure properly. I am using a GM Sensor and when I hit boost I get over boost error saying I hit 24psi but I was not even at 14 psi based on my boost gauge.

I wonder if the freezing up is related to the data it is receiving from the ECU. What can I do to turn off reading the ECU to see if that helps at all. Only data I really need constantly from the ECU is knock and trims so am I able to disable reading all the other data and just have knock and trim readings? 90% of the data shown and displayed is really useless for everyday use. So a toggle to turn items off to increase the system response may be best if that is an option and possible.

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When you purchased an old generation LCDBC unit from someone else, it's harder for me to diagnose your problem, as there's been many improvements on the hardware over the years (such as better OBD2/MUT cable, better serial chips, better DB9 connectors, etc).
Adjusting the "ScreenRefresh=" to a low number will update the screen faster than you can read it. However, if you have a ECU communication problem, it will add additional delays as the LCDBC is waiting for a response from the ECU.
It also sounds like static electricity discharge is causing you grief. If your knob is not installed, and you just use it in your hands, you will cause static discharge and that will cause a microprocessor reset, or other strange behavior.
Your old generation LCDBC is obviously not functioning correctly with the list of problems you have given. It might be a good idea to reflash again in case static electricity has corrupted the software on the microprocessor.

So this is not an ECU problem as if ti was I would be seeing issues when logging through Evoscan which I am not.

What option do I have for disabling it from trying to read the ECU so it is only showing me Boost and WB? I want to remove the ECU data from the loop to see if it is indeed a ECU communication issue of if the system itself is just faulty.

As for the knob, it is securely mounted in the tray in front of the shifter. Since I have a Stealth I don't have the AA switch there, Just an empty tray.

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Originally Posted by BlackStealth

When you switched to the 98 ECU, are you using the appropriate OBD2/MUT cable? The OBD1 cable will not work anymore after upgrading to flash ECU.
Also, if you choose the incorrect microprocessor speed, you will have trouble connecting.

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I believe I read that 3xxx updates can be done via the 4-pin connection on the side opposite the serial connector, using the same 4-pin-to-USB cable used for logging.

If this is wrong, or I am using the wrong cable, please advise - FWIW, I tried hooking to the serial port - just spitballing - that didn't work.

Maybe I need to examine the 4-pin cable for a defect?

I believe I have all the cables you made for the LCDBC, Antero - I also have one of those serial gender-changers if I need it.

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Originally Posted by DrGonzo

So this is not an ECU problem as if ti was I would be seeing issues when logging through Evoscan which I am not.

What option do I have for disabling it from trying to read the ECU so it is only showing me Boost and WB? I want to remove the ECU data from the loop to see if it is indeed a ECU communication issue of if the system itself is just faulty.

As for the knob, it is securely mounted in the tray in front of the shifter. Since I have a Stealth I don't have the AA switch there, Just an empty tray.

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Simplest thing to try first is to re-flash. This will replace any corrupted software on your microprocessor.

You misunderstand what I meant by "ECU communication problem". I'm not saying your ECU is defective. I'm saying the ECU communication between the LCDBC and ECU is possibly problematic if you have long delays. Because you have an old model, please check to see if you have a "maxim" or Texas instruments chip, the "maxim" are problematic. Other areas of problems could be poor connection between older model OBD2/MUT cable and your car's OBD2 connector. Or DB9 serial connector not mating well with the OBD2/MUT cable.


If you adjust "ECU type=" to OBD1 instead of MUT, it will stop attempting to connect as MUT. Disconnect your OBD2/MUT cable from the car, and this will give an equivalent to "not looking". If you want, I can add a "ECU type=none", and this will remove the timeout delays as the LCDBC waits for a response from the missing ECU.

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Originally Posted by j2k4

I believe I read that 3xxx updates can be done via the 4-pin connection on the side opposite the serial connector, using the same 4-pin-to-USB cable used for logging.

If this is wrong, or I am using the wrong cable, please advise - FWIW, I tried hooking to the serial port - just spitballing - that didn't work.

Maybe I need to examine the 4-pin cable for a defect?

I believe I have all the cables you made for the LCDBC, Antero - I also have one of those serial gender-changers if I need it.

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Yes that is correct, all firmware v3.xx microprocessors by default will use the "datalogging" serial port for software updates. If you suspect your "datalogging" serial port cable is defective, just test the cable by datalogging on it. By the way, if you want to use the main serial port (the one for OBD1, or OBD2/MUT cable connects to), you must hold down the rotary encoder button down during power startup, as it will temporarily use that serial port for flashing instead. Once the flashing begins, you can release the rotary encoder button. Also because the gender on the main serial port is different, you must use a "null-modem serial adapter" to change genders, and not a normal gender changer. Null-modem adapters or cables will switch pins 2 and 3 around which is important.

Usually the most challenging part when it comes to flashing new software is powering up the LCDBC within 2 seconds of when the flashing program looks for it. I wish I could extend the flashing program timeout to make it more user friendly.

Thanks, Antero.

I'll be back at it soon.

So an update. I reflashed the BSLCD and drove around with the ODB2 cable disconnected and it did not have any issues. it never locked up or blanked out the screen.

As for the Chip. I have the newer 20mhz chip installed so not sure if I still need to check to see if it is a Maxim or Texas instruments chip.

As for the cables, here is the setup I am using. The brain is mounted in where the second gen passenger airbag would be. Since I have a 1st gen it was empty space. So I converted i into sort of a glove box with the old airbag cover hinged over the opening.
Serial/ODB2 cable runs to the center console.
ODB2 extension cable runs from the Chrome ODB2 connector to the center console.
Center console houses all connectors. Makes it easier to work and get to them and no cables running by my legs.

I have tested running the serial/ODB2 from the BSLCD directly to the chrome ODB2 and it did not help. Still froze up.

I do remember finding a couple pins in your ODB2 connector that got pushed into the housing. I opened it up, resoldered the pins in place and added some hot glue to prevent them from getting pushed back into the housing again.

You've confused the microprocessor with the serial IC. The maxim IC is problematic, and can be fixed by replacing it with a TI brand chip. Depending on how old your LCDBC unit is, it will have 1 or 2 serial ICs.

You have the old serial OBD2/MUT cable, the one where the pins could move on you. The newer serial OBD2/MUT cable has plastic molded inside so no wires or pins can move. I wonder if you have an issue with the OBD2 connector, making intermittent connection issues. One guy on the other forum had to replace his OBD2 connector (Chrome ECU package), because the connector had intermittent problems. This was a frustrating problem for him because it worked fine with his Tactrix device, but not on his LCDBC cable. After he replaced his OBD2 connector, his problems went away. I wonder if this applies to you.

So here is the one I have:

http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psyewyq7uo.jpg

http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/...psqfoyqm7t.jpg

So I have the maxim ic's. So what/where do I need to get the TI chips to replace them.

As for the OBD2 connector are you referring to the one that come with the Chrome ECU that I got directly from Adam? I would think that any intermittent problems would also cause flashing problems which I don't have.

You have the good TI IC's, I see the TI logo. So your serial chips are okay.

See this post here with regards to Adam's chrome OBD2 connector issue:
http://www.3si.org/forum/9130730-post23.html