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I thought that I may have used the external serial port to flash lash time, but this time I could not get it to flash. Tried about 5-6 times and the ArduinoUploader would not connect.
I checked the manual and didn't see it mentioned so though that I did it with my null cable which I think I may have throw out accidentally when cleaning up the shop.
So tried to flash it again using the 20mhz update and the cmd screen comes up, looks like it is going to load running commands and then closes. I can't see what it is doing due to the cmd window closing so fast. Tried with the 16mhz update and it flashed properly, but now I can't get it to connect via MUT. Fails to connect each time. I have the new chip installed with the soldered on circuits so not sure why the 20mhz is not flashing but the 16 one is. not seeing a log and trying to update the command line in the uploader to stop the cmd window closing with any type of pause statement is also not working.
Any Ideas??
I did find that two of the pins on the serial to ODB2 connect in your kit had been pushed in all the way. Iopened the connector and found the solder points from the pins to the board had come off so the pins pushed in. I pushed them back out and resoldered the pin to the board. it was the two pins soldered together to the yellow wire with the brown jumper going two pins over.
Flashing and logging the ECU still work so I know it's not the ECU or cables.
Flashing the incorrect 16mhz version on a 20mhz processor will results in connection problems. You need to flash the correct 20mhz firmware.
On your PC, erase the update you have now, re-download, and try again with 20mhz flash file. Following this step will eliminate two potential problems. No need to use null-modem cable, just USB-to-serial adapter.
If you prefer to flash using a command line, copy the flash files to a folder called C:\FLASH.
1. Open CMD.exe
2. CD C:\flash
3. avrdude -F -v -pm1284 -cstk500v1 -P\\.\COM1 -b38400 -D -Uflash:w:"C:\FLASH\FIRMWARE347_20mhz.hex":i
OK, I'll try it again tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help.
http://lcdbc.xp3.biz/updates/UPDATE348.zip
Improved analog capture -- no more jittery readings on external pressure sensor.
Just wanted to say I upgraded my lcdbc to the latest firmware and installed an oil and fuel pressure sensor. Got the sensors from amazon for like $22 each. This thing is so awesome! The new options in the firmware are great. And I don't even use it as a bc. I am so happy with this thing. Easily one of my top 5 fav mods.
I got mine updated to the 347 and also wired the WBO2 directly to the unit instead of feeding off the ECU signal. Seems to be much more stable now. Once I get some road time on the car I will know more. So hopefully this weekend I will have updates on it.
Was trying to update to 348 connecting with the serial data-logging cable and experienced the same thing Gonzo did; ignition on = fail to connect.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrGonzo
Reviewed all connections, etc, finally gave up, pending this post, but decided to take her out for the first run of the spring - when I started the car, the LCDBC went through it's normal display sequence, then it displayed "fail to connect" before going to the WBO2/boost/knock display.
Does any of that suggest the problem, Antero?
BTW-
I've gone to a 98 SL ECU/Chrome, and changed the appropriate settings in the LCDBC menu.
Took the car out to Cars and Coffee this morning and the BSLCD is about useless. WBO2 does not update in realtime, looks to be updating every couple of seconds even with the WB wired directly into the BSLCD. Unit is still freezing up after driving for about 10 min or so. it does seem to periodically unfreeze itself but not for long. Did note that it I use the control knob when it is frozen up, once it unfreezes it seems to go to that screen or whatever screen it would be on depending on the know turns. Another problem that is going on now is after so long of it being frozen, the screen goes completely blank for a bit and then comes back on. It also looks to not be displaying the Boost pressure properly. I am using a GM Sensor and when I hit boost I get over boost error saying I hit 24psi but I was not even at 14 psi based on my boost gauge.
I wonder if the freezing up is related to the data it is receiving from the ECU. What can I do to turn off reading the ECU to see if that helps at all. Only data I really need constantly from the ECU is knock and trims so am I able to disable reading all the other data and just have knock and trim readings? 90% of the data shown and displayed is really useless for everyday use. So a toggle to turn items off to increase the system response may be best if that is an option and possible.
When you switched to the 98 ECU, are you using the appropriate OBD2/MUT cable? The OBD1 cable will not work anymore after upgrading to flash ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by j2k4
Also, if you choose the incorrect microprocessor speed, you will have trouble connecting.