Lol well your work has to be better than dents and peeling clearcoat :sad:
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Lol well your work has to be better than dents and peeling clearcoat :sad:
funny you should say that....that is exactly what i had to rectify on this. whats weird is that all the body except hood and roof were clear coated why didn't they do the hood and roof when they resprayed the car?
Yeah that's a good question. Why skimp out when you're going to all the work to fix it anyway. Any tips you can give me on fixing the clearcoat? Paint is perfect otherwise, would it be ok to wetsand around the peeling areas and respray some clear? Really don't have the funds to have the entire car stripped and painted again. I can probably afford having the rear quarter resprayed and color matched since it's gonna need some major work to fix the dent I have there...otherwise body is in great shape as well as paint.
the only problem you have with wet sanding back the peeling clear is you will end up with a dip in the finish and the old clear might start to peel taking the new with it, also the base coat (color coat) is usually only 2 layers thick so you would sand through to primer before you sand back the clear. the only real way of doing it is to take it right back all over that panel and start again.
once the clear starts to fail on the base coat its like a chain reaction. usually caused because its not been done right first time round. rule of thumb is that the clear is put on 45 mins max of the last color coat and there should be 30 min max windows between coats from the primer to final coat before clear. all this keeps the paint coats in perfect bond with each other, clear coating late or painting late from primer coat will cause the paint to not key to its lower coat. this is what causes clear to lift and peel away.
Yeah I was worried about the dip and sanding right through the base coats. Hmm well maybe I'll have to buy some paint and paint it myself. Any good place to get OEM paint, or it'd probably be best to take it down and have it color matched and mixed up..
your asking a brit this? lol i have no clue where you would get paint from there mate. but if its the original color then just give the paint code to whoever supplies and ask for original shade, is it one panel or a couple?
i got 1/2 litre that done two fenders one door a hatch and spoiler and 1 and 1/4 rear 1/4's then you would need clear coat and hardener. 1 litre would do for clear. i think if you convert the measures over.....
1 quart of base coat and 2 quarts of clear and a quart of hardener i think? don't hold me to that. if your unsure get more than you need like add a quart to the measures. you will also need primer and thinner for cleaning stuff with later just std thinner will do it.
Yeah I painted my old DSM a few months back, but let my buddy spray it since I had never done it before. I did all the prep work tho since I had experience on that atleast. Clearcoat really isn't bad. It's peeling on the hood blisters as well as passenger front fender and getting oxidized on the roof a bit. Might just have to save up for colormatched paint and make a project of doing the bodywork all at once since I wanna fill the hole in the hatch when I go 99 wing later on.
why color is your beasty sounds red, R38 monza by any chance?
Actually it's silver, but it's my own damn fault that the clearcoat is in such poor shape. I have neglected giving the car it's regular baths and waxings since I was doing a complete overhaul and new engine and everything. I think all the greasy hands on the fenders ate through the clearcoat since that's where it's the worst. The rest is just sun oxidation from not waxing it enough and keeping it clean. :sad:
that's why i'd like to get something better than factory clear-coat when i get mine painted. something that requires practically zero maintenance.
you're in nevada its pretty hot there i would say most of the year? so the sun would have plain baked the clear off the base. you need to get some dodo juice or something once its painted and give it a good dose with that. it should reflect any UV for upto 6 months, but i would wax with that every 2 month in that heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by mh3kgt
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/DSC07546.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/DSC07540.jpg
exuse the engine i have another one with all my single turbo parts waiting to get put on..and it just got pulled out to do a update picture
I have a lot of work to do ^_^
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0068.jpg
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0071.jpg
Just put on some 17x9 FN01R-Cs!
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5211/...ec5fdd9f06.jpg
this was many moons ago...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/CIMG3473.jpg
and one more
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...a/CIMG4827.jpg
Not a fan of that color rim with black...
maybe it needs to be more bronze, rather than gold. possibly even a copper color.
for $130 each for 19x10, they look fantastic to me :)
:eek5:Quote:
Originally Posted by MR2
hows the ride? steering?
I like them on your car, looks great.
figure if I really get worried (and I'm tempted to go matt black) I'll just paint them.
the pain job is shithouse on them, the front looks fine but if you look really closely at the back of them it fades...but seriously $130 each...who cares :p
can't really say, after putting them on with wheel nuts I can't even tighten (better ones are on order) I discovered I have a bad pass wheel hub bearing (both now on order) I've driven it so little the wheels still have the nobby's on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by gltasn
steering rubs slighly turning right only...have yet to really beat the shit out of it and see what it's like at full flight, going to see if I can adjust the steering to get rid of the right rub, still need an alignement too (it never ends)
Edit: maybe the best way to describe it is I don't notice a difference at this stage:p no harder to steer, no unusual pull on the wheel or anything...it's just kinda normal:p
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1045632_n.jpg
Hopefully gonna be out of the shop in the next two weeks. Been there for over a month now. But the wait is gonna be worth it.
http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg
When it gets just a little bit warmer I can finish painting it. National Gathering here I come...
Some new old wheels on it while it sits.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6138225_n.jpg
Hopefully I'll be able to put the chromes on soon, until then I'll just rock the green steelies.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...p/DSCF2888.jpg
I have a long way to go.
http://www.nscelica.net/vr4/IMG_2363-S.jpg
Nasty heat shield! It okay to remove them.Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS VR4
Or buy a new one :DQuote:
Originally Posted by J_Parker
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/PICT3727.jpg
So that's what they're supposed to look like... Interesting.
Every 3/s I got (I know it's only been 2) I removed that thing, no matter what they get destroyed and make your engine bay look like crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Parker
Austin how much weight is the car down to now?Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin@STM
I removed mine within two days of owning any car I've had, minus the Soarer. All they're good for is collecting dirt and grease IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by skater334
just bought another vr4 the other day and ripped that thing out within minutes!
I like those :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin@STM
My car next to Ictponder's last summer.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...-22-14_413.jpg
We going to be seeing you two at the Lansing meet in May?