Eibach's on ECS struts, 17" fno1rc's, 275/40/17 tires.
http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMG_0675.jpg
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Eibach's on ECS struts, 17" fno1rc's, 275/40/17 tires.
http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...4/IMG_0675.jpg
Why would preload matter? They're always loaded the same once you set the car on the ground. Unless you're a Dukes of Hazard fan, they're never going to be unloaded...
It's retardedly simple so balance them. A short piece of pipe and a floor jack is all that's required. You put the pipe on the jack as a pivot, jack up one end of the car exactly in the middle, and set the ride height on the end that's still on the ground. Rinse and repeat...
Wow, it's been a year since I started this thread... :eek4:
It turns out the best way to keep the rings from turning, is to simply use a hammer, and something like a flat-head screwdriver to tighten and loosen them. Be very careful about the angle you're putting the screw driver. I think the rings are made of aluminum, because I have left dents in the rings from using this method. Even when trying to use a rag to protect them.
You can never truly use the adjusting wrenches for anything more than their namesake, because I actually bent mine back after failing to loosen a ring that was somehow SUPER tight.
Preload only matter if you're using the springs to take the bumps rather than firming up the shocks so they didn't blow out and leak like they are known for. This means that if you drive a car as low as megan racing's lowering springs (which is how a lot of people want them including myself), you have to either increase the dampening, or put less travel on the springs. I had chosen the latter. Now I am doing the opposite, and if the car is mostly on the street, not really messing with the spring travel keeps the ride more comfortable, while still having the hight you want. And yes, I have been sort of having a dukes of hazard style of driving when you feel the rough sections of road I drive everyday. Especially when you're late for something, or feeling spirited. haha
I tried your suggestion about corner balancing, but I was never sure if I was lifting the car exactly in the middle. The way I do it, is make 3 different measurements between over all strut height, and spring travel on the strut assembly. If everything is the same, then it should look the same on the ground.
Good to know, I just put some on.
actually, use the spanner wrench and a hammer. i found out that the hammer with screwdriver method can still loosen, since the lever arm isn't large enough to generate any real torque.
When I say I bent my adjustment wrenches (that's what you're calling spanner wrenches right?) I mean I did that by hand with a cheater bar. I got those rings torqued WAY more with a hammer and screwdriver than I ever did with those wrenches.