Slightly tweaked 3000GT TT

The boost curve you are describing is completely normal with stock turbos. You need a larger compressor wheel to maintain 12+ psi to redline. Even 13g's can do 17ish psi to redline, a HUGE difference in potential (100 awhp).

The reducer is required if using the stock "bleed" method of controlling boost. If you install an alternative boost control solenoid in the same setup as stock you will still need the reducer. If you don't use the bleed method then no restriction is required. The diameter of the restriction Also varies depending on the solenoid used.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for clarifying this guys!

I was worried that the boost "spike" I see at low RPM was due to some malfunction since I thought stock cars where never supposed to surpass ~9 psi of boost.

Knowing that my new big brake kit is just days away I decided to take my old brakes to track on last time. I knew from my previous experience that the brakes most likely wouldn't last an whole evening so I did only about 5 or 6 laps but this time a had no mechanical sympathy for the brakes and used them really hard.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/DSC06217.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/DSC06234.jpg

The brakes held up pretty good but the pads started making an odd noise on the last lap and made a horrible squeaking sound when I drove the car through the pits afterwards.

I must have been quite hard on the brakes because this is the first I've managed to heat up me rear brakes enough for them to start smoking.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2615.jpg

...apart from spending time on the track I've had to give some love to one of my Volvo 940's (daily beater) after the radiator on it decided to do this when I was on the other side of town:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2678.jpg

Got my new brakes today.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2681.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2683.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2686.jpg

Comparison with stock VR4 brakes:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2691.jpg

Mounting them on the car:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2697.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2703.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2718.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2728.jpg

Instead of the "sport pads" that came with the kit I opted for EBC Yellowstuff pads (DP4032R). The reason for this is that I had been told that the sports pads weren't up to the task when it came to any kind of track usage, even the reseller I bought the brakes from admitted this. The reseller also mentioned that the race pads XYZ offer didn't work very well on the street so I'm hoping that these yellowstuff pads will be a good combination of both street and track performance.

I'm gonna have to contact EBC however cause the pads needed some slight grinding in order for them to fit the calipers:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2699.jpg

They also protrude slightly outside the disc cause the patch of material on these pads is slightly larger than on the pads that came with the kit.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2705.jpg


I completely flushed my brake system with Motul RBF 600 this winter however I noticed now that some residue had formed on the bottom om the brake reservoir (probably old gunk dissolved by the new brake fluid).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2687.jpg

When I went to the auto parts store the other day I found this little contraption made for filling and checking oil in motorcycle forks. I used it to suck out all the residue at the bottom of the reservoir and also for prefilling the new brake calipers to simplify the bleeding process later on.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2688.jpg

I'm gonna bed in these pads over the coming days and see if I can hit the track next Wednesday. Even though I've been really careful on the brakes so far it takes noticeably less amount of pedal pressure to stop the car compared to "toasted" brakes I had on the car.

I'll report back later with a report on how they work compared to stock brakes with better pads.

This thread has been quiet for quite some time now however I got some parts in the mail last week so let's revive it.

First I got a LCD boost controller from Blackstealth:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2890.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2893.jpg


I modified the panel under the stereo for the heated seats switch in order to able to mount the display there:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2903.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2965.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2966.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2990.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2997.jpg


Here is where I mounted the rotary switch (same location as Ange pioneered a while back).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2993.jpg


In order to simply removal of the unit I fitted connectors to all the cables and I also moved the internal MAP sensor to the engine bay.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2988.jpg


I actually don't use the LCDBC to control my boost instead I use it to replace a load of gauges and to able to view the ECU parameters in real time. The unit does a superb job when it works. I'm having stability issues with it right now but I'm sure that I'll manage to sort them out with Blackstealth's help.

The next package I got was a Seibon CF hood and a set of low tension hood struts that I ordered from Seibon UK.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2910.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2912.jpg

Having been a frequent visitor the various 3S forums for years I've read countless "horror stories" of hoods which don't or fit very badly. To play it safe I decided to order my hood from the UK instead of the US in case I wanted to send the hood back for one reason or another. The hoods are cheaper in the US but the shipping across the pond costs a fortune...

The hood I got was well packaged, had the same outer dimensions as the stock hood and finish was really good so it was a keeper.

As most bolt-on parts I've ordered for this car it needed some "mending" in order for it to fit. It took me an whole evening to get the thing fitted...

Immediately after bolting the hood to the hinges I noticed that it wasn't aligned properly longitudinally so I had to bring out this little tool and enlarge the holes in the hinges so that I could move the hood further forward.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2935.jpg

Next I noticed that it wouldn't close properly so I quickly realized that it must be hitting something. To resolve this issue I borrowed some play-doh from my five year old son and placed it on various parts in the engine bay until I found the culprits.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2919.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2923.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2926.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2927.jpg

After removing the ECS caps and cutting holes for the ECS connectors and the outer most strut nut the hood closed properly.

Next I fitted a set of AeroCatch hood pins which took even longer than mounting the hood.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2940.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2959.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG2962.jpg

Here is the finished result:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_0014.JPG

Overall I must say that this hood beat my expectations. I had read a post here on 3SGTO from a member (I think it was Erron) that had purchased this hood and mentioned that it was a bit soft and on the heavy side but fitted quite well so that's what I expected.

The hood I got however is very stiff it's defiantly not soft. I can't make it bulge more than a fem millimeters even if I press right in the center of it. The production date of this hood is marked as April 2013 so I suspect that they must have changed the way they make these hoods lately.

Bravo! Sleek mods as always with your car. Damn I want one of those hoods!

the reason the pad overhangs is the part number is not the standard AP -D54 pad shape. I forgot the EBC part number but it's listed under a k-sport application, they do carry the correct pad.

How do you like the fitment of the hood? Also how much lighter is it compare to OEM?