Drove my car after getting my spark maker back. Now I still need to figure my idle..........it'll search, then it wont, then it will, and wont and repeat. Just a couple hundred rpm in oscillation from 800.
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Drove my car after getting my spark maker back. Now I still need to figure my idle..........it'll search, then it wont, then it will, and wont and repeat. Just a couple hundred rpm in oscillation from 800.
I finished wrapping up replacing the rear turbo finally...The O2 housing is a major PITA to get wrangled back in when you take it completely out; choice words were used & used frequently.
Sent from the garage
Wasn't my car, but I snagged a 97-98 front bumper from a junk yard car. She's getting prepped for paint today and will be installed soon.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps20b371e1.jpg
nice! i love those bumpers. my only beef is the headlight area with the fugly gasket--and i wish the turns were like 2g stealth. no matter...if you want it, you can fix those issues...Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted3s
Eliminated EBC and installed MBC. Recalibrated TPS on 70mm TB AND AEM EMS V2 has now the flex fuel update ready to down load wooohoooooooooo
Why eliminate the EBC? Our Blitz SBC-iD's have always been ROCK SOLID....Quote:
Originally Posted by DuTTch
Bob.
I put my updated insurance card in it. Thankfully everything inside is still dry. I guess my sunroof fix I did all those months ago worked well.
Bought a pair of unconverted DSM SMICs to get rid of the wonked stockers, on the TT. Also, picked up a new tap and die set, to repair some snapped bolt holes for the battery tray.
My HKS started acting up after 23psi, I read more and more that EBC's dont do so well at high boost applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman
Dutch fix your sig so we can see the whole thing pleez
Oringed my block....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...-no/image.jpeg
Crappy pic, but my thumb is at the wire end joint...not bad:)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...25281%2529.JPG
Dayum...that looks good!!
Bought a new 300M output shaft to help jump start the transaxle rebuild process.
I recall someone at the TN fall meet saying something about that as well. They just can't bleed enough air. Well, unless maybe you upgraded the waste gates? Can't quite remember the discussion on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DuTTch
Started gapping rings....Then visited neighbor to play some poker and drank "just a little" beer and moonshine:D
Teplaced the orings in my throttle body today. Later in the afternoon I took the car out for a short drive since it isnt fully registered yet.
There was a kid in the bike lane with his sister and dad. He stops and watches me turn and says whoa cool! Sure is great to be driving it again.
September 7 it goes to FSR to finally have the pro efi tuned! Hope all goes well.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
Finished un-screwing the wiring under the SL's dash. *To the twerp who owned her before me: Someone should take away your tools, and your driver's license. If you are less than adept at installing aftermarket accessories, you should probably hire a pro...
Sounds about on par with how I felt after having to fix all of the wiring on mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by MorbidlyAngelic
Thanks! .039" wide groove with approx .031" depth .041" SS wire, for approx .010" protrusion. Will be using composite head gaskets with A1 studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4
Finished assembling the short block tonight. All stock 2bolt turbo bottom end with clevite bearings. One rod/pin replaced because it was turning on pin. Clearances came out great with a couple bearing swaps on mains.
I'd drive it around on wastegate boost, and low timing for a while. If anyone ever deserved to just enjoy a car for a while..........
Thought about randomly going to the track for some street tire fun but opted to wait until a weeknight test n tune when it's not 90+ deg @ 10 pm.
Great info. Are you copying Chris' recipe?Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...-no/image.jpeg
Wow, so it just rides on those pins as your rotate it by hand? I had no idea you could avoid using a mill. What'd that tool cost you and how long did cutting each groove take? Did you notice the cutting tool wear out? Did the pins it rides damage the surface? (not that it would matter)
Isky makes that tool, and I have been dying for either me, or someone I know to give it a shot. I may be buying one now. You can also rent it from them for under $100.
LOL. Very true. Unfortunately, hard to enjoy it on wastegate boost:DQuote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
Nope, copying DSM recipe that donnie has pointed me to. Chris is copper wire with MLS gasket. I am doing SS wire with composite gasket. The SS wire is positioned in the middle of the fire ring of the gasket. I have already done this on my first build, which held 25psi and overheating that warped my block and heads, but no failure of gasket and I attribute that to oring. (machine shop cut the grooves for us on that build)Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
As donnie said. Isky tool. I ordered from Summit for $330. Comes with copper wire so also ordered SS wire from summit. It cuts easy and no dulling of tool after 6 cylinders. I am disappointed with my technique which caused me to not have a perfectly even groove depth. In order to get it to cut I had to put a little angle on tool to get it to "bite" and cut. Unfortunately, that also lifted it off the pins. I wonder if playing with the angle of the blade (limited flexibility in angling it) would have got it to bite with keeping the tool level.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamVR4
No damage to deck surface from pins. It did take a little off my hone in the top of the bores, so if you really care, hone after oringing. Spent almost as much time setting up the depth and width as actual cutting. Isky recommends cutting .025 first on all bores then come back for a final pass .005 deeper. Good recommendation because my target of .025 actually got me deeper on the first pass, so if I had targeted my final depth, I would have overshot.
Installed my Sake Bomb Garage bi-xenon setup. Not a 3/S but..deal with it.
Here are my install pics. Didnt take step by step but took a few.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps06032434.jpg
Buckets trimmed and lights fitted.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...psa51495eb.jpg
The harness will fit across the inside of the rebar along the front of the bumper.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps3aeb059c.jpg
The ballasts fit nicely under the turn signals on the rebar. These arent final mounted in the pic, but shows where i fitted them.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps7bf705e6.jpg
And all buttoned up and ready to get aimed and go for a drive.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...psb14f2229.jpg
I can see!!!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps8319abcd.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48...ps3aa39dd7.jpg
Jason
Stripped out the back half of the interior. Tomorrow will tackle the front half of the interior.
Heads on and A1 studs torqued down. Several steps. Started at 35 and retorqued several times letting gasket settle for 15-30mins between retorque. Then 70. Then 110. Sweating now. Harbor freight engine stand bends under the load:D
That seems tough to overcome. I wonder if you could have used a giant c-clamp (haha) or a press to apply the downward force so all you had to do with your hands was turn it. Probably not. Spring loading the cutting tool could have allowed you to get the pins flush, but would have really increased the cutting time... huh. I guess I'm glad I'm going with Ray's fix and A1 studs. How much did having the grooves machined cost you last time?Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
Wow, that intake duct is nice. I feel blind in my VR4, so this is on the never ending to-do list. Posts about your RX7 are ALWAYS appreciated!!Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonY
$160 but I moved and trying to find decent machine shops. Already crossed one off my list when they didn't get anywhere close to the RA needed for MLS even though they assured me they could; which is one reason why I am oringing a stock bottom end.... (Lesson learned: ask to see a head next time!) I believe I did find a good shop now but had already ordered the isky tool.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...25282%2529.JPG
It's also now timed and cams degreed. Stock cams, resurfaced block and heads. Ended up at FRONT: EXH -1.5*, INT -1.0*. REAR: EXH 0.0*, -0.5*
Also replaced PS pump and deleted the PS "cooler" hardline. Having second thoughts on putting it all together this week....Trying to decide if I send the trans out for a refresh first. Last few times I had the engine out, the trans fluid was darker than I would think it should be with so few miles in between.
edit: before anybody comments on the fram filter, it's just a dust cover; I don't use them.
Because Racecar ensuing... more to come:
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...mporary-13.jpg
First attempt at painting calipers. Used the brush on caliper paint.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/26/4ynydese.jpg
A lot of times in these cars, dark fluid can be the viscous coupler failing.Quote:
Originally Posted by familyMAN
SHe is a little torn apart for paint. :)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...92477739_o.jpg
https://sphotos-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/h...18356034_n.jpg
-John
Was thinking that at first but I don't think it looks like vcu goo and I let some sit and the dark (metal?) settled out.Quote:
Originally Posted by donniekak
If you want the silver lettering clean, and sharp, paint the red, and use a flat files aggressive side, then fine side to file the lettering. Once you have that if you want it further polished wrap the file in 220, 300, then 600. Turns out nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andr3w
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-y...6+17.21.23.jpg
Awesome! I will definitely give that a try
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
I used VHT spray paint and an electric sander to do mine, IIRC around 80 grit.
http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/IMG_1318.jpg
Edit: Red caliper is red.
http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...D2991EED64.jpg
Powder coat + 300 grit and re-plated bolts here
http://jns.jimnshar.com/56d00ab0.jpg
Put a new slave cylinder in the SL, and lubed and reassembled the TT's freshly painted shifter.