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btw word to the wise, be careful removing the main girdle. Knock it loose first and then pull it off. I had a little bit of up pressure while I was knocking it loose. It came loose in a jolt and I put a tiny knick in one of the mains. :( I went over it with some thousand grit until you couldn't feel it, but its a shame, the surface was perfect.
well I measured the gaps of all the rings. The top ring was 17 thou on 5 cylinders and 18 on 1. Just fine.
The 2nd rings were way to tight. some came out around 12 thousand. I shot for 20-21 thousands on all of them. 5 of them I got right, but the first one I screwed up and it came out to 25 thous. I guess I gotta order a new ring set for one cylinder :(
Get a 55 gallon trash bag. They work like a charm.Quote:
Originally Posted by vroom4
-Chris
Common practice, and I have done it for years, is to make that bottom ring on the large side. This way it allows some blow by. If it is too tight not enough blow by get by the ring and it ricochets (ring flutter) right into the top ring and can cause it to break. 25htou/.63mm isn't out of line. I have built them even larger, up to .75mm testing ring gaps on the race car and everything was great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
Think about that gap when the ring in compressed in the bore. AND most of it is covered up by the piston. Only a Smidgen is out in the free air making a gap.
I would not worry about it. It anything, cause I am anal, I would bring the others up closer to the large one to "even" then up. I surely wouldn't buy a ring pack to replace it.
-Chris
Thanks Chris, I was hoping you'd say something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja Performance
I guess I'll bring the other gaps up to about 22 thousandths. I don't really want to run them all at 25 because I'd like this to burn little oil.
Do you think the top ring being 17-18 is good?
25 won't burn oilQuote:
Originally Posted by Forest Gump
17-18 is fine.
Also keep in mind the ring pack/pistons you are using and the bore size. The rings/piston set should have come with a paper stating .XX per bore size for the rings. Try to follow that also.
-Chris
yeah surprising enough this ring setup didn't contain any gap specs and barely any instructions. I guess since it is stock replacement they expect you to use stock specs or not gap them.
One piston and rod is installed:
http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...4t02B_btjq.JPG
Rod clearance came out to .019. Really happy with that.
$7.99 ring compressor from sears worked fine. Engine still turns pretty easily by pushing on a counter weight.
just like new:
http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/p...553B5_Msm3.JPG
I followed the manual for where to put the rings gaps as bet as I could. Going to be pretty nervous starting this thing :) Next time I'm just going to pay ray to build something for me. Too many variables.
.019" ??? Holysmokes....hope that's a misprint-
I would recommend pulling your knock sensor bracket & check the contact area, one side of mine had terrible contact (small eyebrow). I suspect it contributed to odd high knock counts prior to my build.
.0019 of course.
Rod and piston #6 is in. .002 on that one.
good idea about the knock sensor bracket.
fyi I had several rings that were nearly stuck in the grooves due to carbon.