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I picked up a new pair of DR500's directly from DR in 2010 for my full rebuild.
My front spilled it's guts bigtime @350 miles. They were contaminated with .004"-.007" steel blasting shot, which subsequently contaminated my oiling system-
Cost me plenty to rectify.
Remember the story. :(
DR has been through quite a few turbo shops because of various issues to get where he's at now. I know the quality is there now on turbos especially looking at the 950s I've got. Hundreds of people haven't had any issues so it's not like it's going to make a difference when the products are proven.
This thread has already gone OT. A billet TD04 with a few mm bigger compressor wheel comparable to the GT 2863 in size or flow in a larger compressor cover with upgraded thrust bearings and a 9 blade HL turbine wheel sounds better but I wonder about going too big on the compressor side. Sure it could in theory support 700-750AWHP that is probably out of reach for DR-750s but looking back at the failure rates of GT-368SX turbos with a huge 60-1 T3 compressor wheel on a TD04 HL shaft they couldn't make more than 22-24 psi without breaking the shaft due to the large compressor wheel on a small turbine side.
I'm stuck at a crossroad unsure what to do. My front turbo is going to start from scratch and from the damage there's no possibly way to tell the sequence of events on what failed first if it was material or bearing failure. I need new compressor wheels which aren't quite as much as $400 like I originally thought. Dan said the run of wheels done cost $190 each so I need to ask you Bill and also Josh if you want any parts for your turbos; otherwise, it'll probably be around $3-350 per wheel for a replacement. My only 9 blade HL option is the Kamak/Kinugawa 9 blade turbine wheels which another builder will be using so I may give it a shot due to not wanting to go to a 12 blade wheel. I should probably go ahead and rebuild the turbos, then decide whether to run them for the summer or sell and proceed with a single turbo that's the goal one way or another. I'd probably rather have my car running on TD04s than sit most of the year it has already done.
After researching (as I always do) I am staying with my PTE 5027s .48 A/R turbos.
FP stop responding to my tech emails
Midwest has nothing
And I really don't want to spend buckets of money.
I have a number of things I am going to do to my setup to create better efficiency with what I have.
I am staying with my PTE TD05 hot side 5027s .48/R, Stock heads and stock cams. I May pocket port the valves.
I am going to change the WG setup, since it is the WORST on the market. WG exhaust should dump back at the shallowist angle possible (45 degree good, 30 degree or less is better) and 18" or more away from the turbine wheel. This keeps back pressure and turbulence at the turbine wheel down which creates a better flowing/higher efficiency engine/head. It all back tracks. Mine are setup the way they were originally made, WG dumps back into the exhaust front-about 6" away from turbine wheel and at a 90 degree angle, the rear-RIGHT AT THE TURBINE WHEEL and 90 degree.
It is a horrible and as inefficient as it can be. So That is getting changed. That should greatly increase engine and turbo efficiency especially at higher RPMs.
Should have this done in a few weeks. Just have to get caught up. We have 4 customer cars and every time one gets picked up another gets dropped off. I can't imagine what it would be like if we advertised and or trolled for service work. They just keep coming LOL.
-Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja Performance
That will be sweet! I'm eager to see the difference!
Porsche used to keep the wastegated flow FAR FAR AWAY from the turbine. On the front engine cars, they would re introduce the wastegate flow about 2 feet in front of the rear diff. Way after their main cat.
I am probably a bit late to the party, but I run twin new FP greens on my car (3.0). I upgraded from my td06sl2-20g 6cm tothese. They are td06h4-76hta (ccustom billet 3076 compressor wheels made by FP) all shoved in the 20 housings and the 6cm turbine housings. I am sure this setup will support 1k plus HP. My car is a street car. I really reallylike how the car spoiled with the 20gs. Not so much with these turbos. The car starts to make serious power around 5100 rpm. The 20gs had the same pickup around 4600 rpm. It is VERY NOTICEABLE. I had to upgrade when I did because my old turbos god trashed from bearing material jamming up to the oil channels, but I wish I could go back to the sl2s. Even if a standard tdo6h wheel would spool better, I would be happy with that. The car is VERY laggy. It probably wouldn't be as bad with a 3.5, but for a 3.0 street car, highly reccomend against it......unless you are hell bent on making 1000+ wheel HP.
FP lists greens as 73mm comp and reds as 76mm. Yours sound more like reds. I would def not pair reds with a 3.0. I had suggested greens a few pages back for a 3.0 and red for 3.5.
Sounds like you aren't running the FP housings either? So all the lag without the results unless they ported the crap out of your turbine housing and even then my understanding is its inferior to the FP td05 turbine housings.
Edit: props for going for it!! Just add some displacement and you will be rockin!
Chris, since you are keeping your setup mostly unchanged, you should also try a big plenum intake mani with Q45 TB. Bet you pick up mid and high end. Up to you how much you want to shorten runners. Easy and cheap to swap back and forth and Virtual Dyno. Just use stock NA runners and build from there. Looks like you have a source now for custom parts since you are coming up with new items....this is another one for you:) buy some d shape aluminum and have your guy make some flanges and weld to mani. Bolt on q45 and your IAC block and done.
I only know a little more about the turbos than Robert Young told me when I sent them to him....they are new style greens shoved into trust housings. Not reds ( unless they have changed the green formula since I bought them which is highly likely. I think for a while they called them blacks......who knows.). I still wouldn't reccomend them. The more I think about it, the more I wish I had twin 9 blade td06sl2 billet 20gs with 8 cm housings. I have a feeling THAT would give me the responce and power I want from the car.
I considered the Billet 20Gs with a 9 blade TD06SL2 turbine since it would be a good match to the compressor inducer specs but I don't really know how good they would perform in a twin configuration. FP HTA68 turbos are bigger than a 20G wheel and made 740AWHP on a heavily modded 3.5L.Quote:
Originally Posted by Armond30