Printable View
PS intercooler mounted. This was by far the easiest step. I think I have to drill holes for the driver side, right?
Attachment 5385
*Wow, should've cleaned it first, lol
Attachment 5386
Somewhere in the middle of all this, I decided to go ahead and do the ABS delete. That actually took me a good bit of the weekend. With working Saturday and Sunday and also Sunday being Mothers Day, I only had about 8 hours to work with.
Not sure if I'm understanding right but the oil cooler really needs to be straight up and down or the efficiency will suffer big time.Quote:
Originally Posted by n2nsanity
Yes you have to cut a hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by n2nsanity
I just found this pic with a quick search. It should give you a good idea what you need to do.
http://www.3si.org/forum/attachments...help-tt-10.jpg
Engine's out
Without removing the hood. TIGHT squeeze! :p
Attachment 5389
Attachment 5390
Attachment 5391
*sitting pretty stable, but should probably zip tie compressor in place just in case
Attachment 5392
Trans off
Attachment 5482
Think I need to resurface the flywheel? Feels pretty flat to me.
Attachment 5483
Not easy to see from pic, but clutch is as smooth as glass.... Explains why it was slipping recently. Oh well, glad it started slipping before I started the conversion, lol. Would've been pissed if I had to take the trans off a few days after completing this project.
Attachment 5484
This homemade tool helps a lot with removing and installing flywheel. It's actually part of my homemade crankpulley removal tool. Basically 2 metal bars, 1 long/1short forming with 2 holes drilled in each. Together they form a Y. This is the shorter piece and works perfectly for flywheel too. If you don't have a drill press at home, ninjaperformance sells a nicer tool for cheap.
Attachment 5485
I run the long bolt through the sleeved hole on the engine, but there are a number of ways you can do this.
Attachment 5486
Tranny was brown, lol. I didn't clean it too good the 1st time. A few years ago it had mud caked on it where bees or something had built nests on it. I scraped that off but never really cleaned it. So attempted some cleaning this time around.
Hit it with some wire wheels, was taking forever
Attachment 5487
This (nylon I think) attachment worked MUCH better :)
Attachment 5488
Got bored with this and moved onto other things. Pretty sure this thing will need replacing soon anyway lol.
Front manifold on. Not sure I like that PTU location so much any more. And looks like my dipstick is leaking. Don't remember that being a problem before.
Attachment 5399
*Later on I moved PTU to side under coilpack with a makeshift bracket.
*Also, later I used a new oring on the dipstick tube.
*Also, ended up putting the stock manifold on later.
I was wondering why the old manifold came off so easily but then I remembered what I did the day before....
Attachment 5398
*This magical concoction = ATF/Acetone mixture
Seriously, I could have removed those exhaust manifold bolts with a stubby 1/4" drive ratchet :)
Thanks, yeah I'm pretty sure I've seen a pic before and looked like they did it with a hole saw for a cleaner look. But hacking wide open allows for easier install, better ventilation and larger pipes in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
I'll figure something out. I have a few toys that can cut metal :)
For the oil cooler, I've seen them mounted sideways MANY times. You sure this is going to be a problem?
OEM has ports on top, I believe. Which will be a REAL PITA to pull off using the one I have.
Yep, of course it matters how much of an angle but the more it leans the less efficient it becomes. You've never seen a car built with a flat radiator have you? :pQuote:
Originally Posted by n2nsanity
Edit: I should say though if you build ducting to force air into it then it will help a lot.
+1 on the PTU, looks like you might have trouble with it mounted there.
The build is coming along nicely, sorry if I missed this but are you going to run some kind of LSD?
Also some of your pics aren't working.
Need to fix the pics. Not sure what happened.
*Pics fixed.
Stainless manifolds are causing some fitment issues that I don't feel like dealing with atm. Going back to stock tt manifolds for now.
Oil returns are proving to be a real pita. The 1st set of flange adapters fit, but didn't leave room for those monstrous lines to attach. The 2nd set are 2 pieces each and make it sit lower. So I'm having a hard time lining them up to oil pan in stock location. I have weld-on fittings so I could put them anywhere but trying to get the most effective drain possible. Lines are mostly likely going to need some adjusting.
I have 2 broken studs in the front turbo housing. I've replaced all the missing ones already. Anyway, these 2 are killing me. I've tried all kinds of stuff and can't break them free. Guess I need to find a machine shop.
I thought I had another problem, but figured out a solution. My rear oil feed setup is going to be ridiculous. I'm improvising a few things to make this work.
I'm not sure why the oil feeds were m10 up front and m12 in rear. But the rear has a removable adapter. Pull it off and it's an m10 just like the front.
So now my ss line with the m10 banjo fitting fits :)
Mounted the axle to the block to check for clearance and looks good. Close, but should be fine.
Also can't really do the tt oil filter housing until after the oil pan. Can't do the oil pan until I get everything fitted so I can mark spots for weld-on return fittings. These broken studs and returns are the hold up now.
Wow, I knew most people replaced the front motor mount bracket, but thought that was mostly due to oil return.
No way I'm getting the front turbo to fit with this bracket on, unless I hack it all to hell, which I have considered, lol.
Anyway, guess I need a front TT mount bracket.
This is going to slow progress :(
*Have a tt front mount bracket lined up for cheap, but won't have it for a while. I ended up hacking the mount all to hell, lol.