Fixing the tick w/out $$$?

I've had very minor lifter tick for about a year now. Recently it's gotten worse and I want to remedy i, however, I just dumped $400 into a new clutch/plate/bearing. I am more than willing to do the work but just can't afford a new set of lifters right now.

There are so many different opinions on what causes it and I want to know - is there a way to get rid of it outside of replacing them. Can I simply clean them individually? Is it possible to drill the hole into the chamber a little biggerto keep them from going dry?

I'm just brainstorming here because I'm broke. If I had the cash (along with the wife's go ahead lol) I would just buy new ones.

Any ideas?

Your problem may not be that the lifters are gummed up, here's a copy of what the FSM suggests-



LASH ADJUSTER CHECK
NOTE
If the clanging noise due to the lash adjuster produced immediately
after the engine has started or during operation persists,
perform the following checks.
(1) Check the engine oil, and add or replace if necessary.
NOTE
(1) If the engine oil level is low, the air drawn in from
the oil strainer will be trapped in the oil passage.
(2) If the engine oil level is higher than the specified
level, agitation of the oil by the crankshaft could cause
a large amount of air to enter the oil.
(3) A deteriorated oil contains a large amount of air, because
the air, once trapped, is not readily separated
from the oil.
If the air trapped due to these causes enters the high
pressure chamber in the lash adjuster, the air in the high
pressure chamber will be compressed while the valve
is in the opened position. The lash adjuster will be drawn
too far in, and will produce noise when the valve closes.
This is the same phenomenon that occurs when the valve
clearance is adjusted to an excessive dimension.
In this case, the normal condition will be, restored if the
air escapes from the lash adjuster.
(2) Start the engine and slowly race* it several times (less
than 10 times).
If racing the engine causes the noise to die away, it means
that the air has escaped from the high pressure chamber
of the lash adjuster and that the lash adjuster has regained
its normal functions.
* Accelerate the engine from the idling speed to 3,000
rpm slowly (in 30 seconds) and then decelerate it
to the idling speed slowly (in 30 seconds).
NOTE
(1) When the vehicle is parked on a slope for a long
period, the oil in the lash adjuster will decrease. When
the engine is started, the air might enter the high
pressure chamber.
(2) After a long period of parking during which the oil
in the oil passage goes away, it will take some time
before the oil is re-supplied to the lash adjuster. Therefore,
the air could enter the high pressure chamber.

I don't know if you have a turbo car or not, but for the NA's, you can use motor flush before changing your oil. It usually cures my lifter tick until the oil starts to go bad. Can't do it with a turbo car though.