3rd Gear Syncro Replacement

Well my 3rd is blocking me out. It isn't grinding yet, but I want to replace the syncro before it does damage to any hard parts. 1st,4th,5th are perfect and 2nd is "ok".

I have a new 2,3 and 4 oem syncros coming from jacks transmissions and I'm going to replace 1st with my low mile first out of my other gear box.

I've replace the 1st and 2nd syncros before and it is really no big deal, but the 3rd/4th look a lot harder. It looks like the shaft needs to come out of the box completely by pressing it out of the end case, 5th needs to be taken out of the way, and then you can get to the meat of 3/4th.

Anyone have any more info? Pics would be ever better. Obviously I have the getrag manual.

I need to get this done quick as I want to replace them before the NG if I can. When I had the trans apart to put my 300m output shaft in the gear engagement teeth looked great, so I'm not expecting any serious parts that need to be replaced. The box is quiet, and does not have excessive backlash, so I am going to leave the bearings alone.

The other thing I'm considering is just running syncromesh for while ;) I have redline mtl in it right now.

Can't help you on getting to the third gear sychros, but if you ordered parts from Jacks Transmissions, why didn't you also order up some Diaqueen tranny fluid? Best stuff to use, IMO. Best of luck on the tranny rebuild.

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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT

Can't help you on getting to the third gear sychros, but if you ordered parts from Jacks Transmissions, why didn't you also order up some Diaqueen tranny fluid? Best stuff to use, IMO. Best of luck on the tranny rebuild.

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tried that before on my last transmission, I prefer the redline.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...T/6fba8faa.jpg

Pull trans and pop it open. Get that shaft out. Take the snap ring off that is under that long beveled gear (before the gear sets). Then use a puller or press to get that top gear off. Then, 4th gear will just pull off. Next, use a press to get under 3rd gear and get that off with the hub/sleeve. Be careful of those damn balls and springs. Bastards like to shoot everywhere.

how big does your bearing splitter need to be? about 4"?

I'm not sure... never used a splitter on that shaft. Just press plates.

well scratch that maybe. The clutch still drags. If I rev it past 6000 with the clutch depressed it starts to try to creep forward. New slave, new master, bled well, pedal is adjusted to where there is not much play and it doesn't start grabbing until near the top.

Not sure what else to do besides pull the clutch. What do you guys think?

If the clutch engages towards the top, maybe it's being disengaged too far? That can cause the diaphragm arms to hit the hub of the clutch disc. Try lowering the engagement point a bit and see if it helps/hurts.

the play is actually about right on according to the specs. I adjusted it a little more out and it doesn't seem to creep anymore. The trans feels a "little" better, but not great.

I'm out of adjustment on the pedal, so I'm going to bleed the system again tomorrow and see if that helps.

Hate to drop the trans for no reason, but I think it may still need some syncros. This was an 18 spline original trans, so I'm sure it has the crappy organic syncros.

Thanks for the help on getting 3rd gear off.

When all else fails, there is an adjustment rod behind the clutch master. It's part of the clutch booster.