Deleting brake booster, non diaphragm assisted brakes

I want to delete my brake booster. What style would you guys say the OEM brake master is? Is it a 1" single master with double crossover? Or is it a dual master with split front and rear? Should I go with a two res master and separate front and rear with each reservoir? Or cross them over eachother so I have a second one for redundancy should the first one fail? <--- how stock brake master is setup I think? OEM brake master is 1" right?

If that's the case I'm going to drop a 1/4" down to offset the brake assist so I think I'm going to go with a 3/4" Willwood replacement kit from Chase Bay and ditch that black 20lb's of space stealing uglyness on the firewall.

Double checking my brake master rule here... Smalled diameter brake master piston = higher line pressure? Translates, if I delete the OEM diaphragm brake assist I'll adjust the pedal modulation and brake clamping force by changing the brake master?

What I'm going to go with instead of OEM... Except it will be double reservoir.

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/IMG_1107.jpg

This is on my street car BTW... AP Racing 14" BBK up front and stock 2nd gen pots in the rear with a proportioning valve. Feel free to chime in...

Pedal pressure (foot pressure) will increase massively.

Stock master on a turbo is 1 1/16". The size is actually cast into the bottom of the cylinder. NA is 15/16" if I recall correctly.

The stock booster isn't remotely near 20 lbs. I'd be surprised if it was much over 5.

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Originally Posted by Jeff V.

Stock master on a turbo is 1 1/16". The size is actually cast into the bottom of the cylinder. NA is 15/16" if I recall correctly.

The stock booster isn't remotely near 20 lbs. I'd be surprised if it was much over 5.

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Yeah I'd kinda want to keep that weight for the sake of being able to stop my car at high speeds.

I installed an NA booster, it's about an 1" smaller in diameter and a bit lighter. Booster weighs like 5-7 lbs.

ABM what was your purpose in doing that? just for the 1" smaller diameter?

a little more room, and a little more stiffer pedal to keep the brakes from being so touchy.

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Originally Posted by anyonebutme

a little more room, and a little more stiffer pedal to keep the brakes from being so touchy.

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Thoughts on upgrading to a hydratech hydraulic type setup? I figure if I'm deleting the rear AWS then I can just utilize those taps and retrofit a hydralic setup? I'm still trying to make a decision, but I most definitely need to make room on the drivers side. Biggest reason I'm moving is because I need more room on that side. Big ass booster over there is in the way. 2nd reason. Running a really lopey cam and am going to have problems with brake assist with little to no vac at cruise.

I was digging around and found some I actually like this setup. Still looking tho.

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/images/3200.jpg

the hydroboost is an option, just not for me. my boosted brakes will go by-by when the new tilton pedals go in, so there will be nothing on the firewall then. I'm not sure the hydroboost will fit as it shoots the master straight out a couple more inches. Problem with removing the booster on the stock pedal is the ratio is wrong, really needs a longer pedal.

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Originally Posted by J. Fast

Running a really lopey cam and am going to have problems with brake assist with little to no vac at cruise.

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Even 5mm of mercury is enough vaccum to help a LOT but I can understand eliminating the booster if you need the space. You consider retrofiting the clutch booster as it's much smaller and fits inside the cab?