Car runs, but now......

OK, so for those that haven't read the other entire 20 page thread, here's a low down, and what the current problems are.

I just finished swapping in a 91 JDM TT motor, ECU, and harness into a 94 base. There have been a lot of issues, but now it's running, if rough. Right now, the biggest issue is the radiator.

I followed the instructions at the link below, but the fan still won't turn on for anything. At the relays for the fans, there is power to pins 1 and 5, and possibly 3 (it varies for some reason?). If the engine gets warm enough, the driver's side fan will kick on to cool the motor, but when I turn on the AC, it doesn't turn on. Anyone got any ideas on this one? I'd wire a separate relay into this thing and call it done, if I could somehow slave it to the temp, so the fans would turn on like they're supposed to, but I'm not sure how that'd work. Thanks for looking!

http://www.3si.org/forum/f53/1g-harness-2g-body-274771/

Have you hooked up power to the fan to know that its even good?

It is indeed. At one point I was able to ground pin 5 and have it run. And before I put it in, I tested both fans.

JDM radiator? is the rad in good shape?

i mean sometimes those rads clog in the bottom rail where the senders are, they will not find heat if they are covered in sludge

No, it's a usdm, but I flushed it before I put it in. The reason it makes me think that it isn't the sensors is that sometimes, pin 3 does and does not have voltage. I haven't actually tested to see if this is related to the engine temp yet, but it does make sense. Unless I'm completely backwards on how that circuit functions.

For 20 bucks at any parts store you could get an adjustable high temp regulator. I converted an air cooled engine to liquid cooled and used one to turn the electric water pump when it gets to a certain temp. They are for fans tho. Put sensor inline, turn screw to have it turn on between 150 and 210 degrees. Simple easy fix.

Sounds like a winner, thanks elyria.

OK, so I'm bringing everything back to this thread. I've compiled a list of the symptoms of the car that need to be tuned, and if I have theories or steps I'm going to take on each one, I'll list them accordingly. If there are no ideas, I could use yours, guys, since I'm lost. I've never tuned my own car before.

-car can't build any real boost: doing a pressure check this weekend, as well as installing the new injector insulators (upper and lower), as they seem to be part of the issue
-when the car is warm, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th, when trying to give the throttle some go, at 3000-3500 RPM, the motor falls flat on its face
-the TB plate sticks
-when driving, taking my foot off the throttle, and leaving the car in gear, the car back/mis fires. Also noticed that when it fires out the back end, the WB is reading between 10-11. Seems to be connected
-idles high: ground and adjust idle according to manual
-BOV is constantly going off whenever I accelerate. It's an open atmosphere, and since I've never had an open atmo one before, not sure entirely how it should sound, but I definitely hearing a whirring noise from that area when accelerating.

it all sounds like a boost leak, the whole thing is connected.except the sticky butterfly, does it stick shut or open?

What BOV are you running?

It sticks shut. And it's an apexi open air bov. The guy claimed he didn't know the brand and said it was a recirculating.

More issues to add to the list above:

-It feels like when I shift, the exhaust hits the floor of the car. Time to get solid motor mounts?
-When I accelerate, my car sounds like a car with a broken exhaust. Like someone blowing a raspberry. When I stop accelerating, and just cruise, it has a deep mean sound. Thoughts on the farting noise? I have no cat, if that helps.