How do you guys set ride height?

Long story short I need to adjust my alignment again. I am going to raise the back a hair while I am at it. I was wondering how you guys set up your ride height. Do you make it the same L/R? Make it the same all around?

What I initially did was measure the stock height then just lower those values by a set length. Doing it this way, one side was a little higher than the other. I figured this would compensate for a possibly uneven floor.

Also if anyone has it handy, what is the difference in track width from front to back? I think it is 10mm wider in the rear but want to make sure. Do you guys just measure from the string to the center cap of the wheel?

Thanks!

If not cornerweighting, I set to same height L/R WITH driver weight in.

Don't use the hubs and track width trick for setting up the strings for parallel, because the rear suspension can actually be offset left or right depending on adjustments and if you have that and set 0 toe, the car will have a thrust angle and crab. Extend the strings past the bumpers if using jackstands and actually measure to ensure parallel. Then you can use the hubs to center the square, but it won't be as accurate as finding chassis center and going off that. It'll at least ensure a "true straight" and minimize toe errors.

My setup [smartstring knockoff], eliminates parallel issues and sets up in minutes, only cost like $30 in materials and allows me to roll the car to settle suspension:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ps7cd364a2.jpg

What do you mean by "actually measure"? What do you measure? I am pretty sure it has some thrust angle right now so I would like to zero that out.

Also, I was planning to use suction cups on the car to hold the string. That way I could jack it up/etc. if I need to and not have to reset everything. You think yours is easier/better? How do you mount it to the car?

instead of just measuring to the hubs, measure from string to string in front and back (these measurements have to be equal, and exact). this is the reason for the bars or extending the strings beyond the bumpers. suction cups are fine, I just used what I had. In my case the front rod bolts to the radiator bosses that would hold stock fans had I have them. rear rod bolts to the license plate screws. mounting is not the important part, making it so it's parallel is the important part.

Damn Chris you know too much.... my right rear side sticks out at least 1/4" more than the left. Never knew why. Will have a REAL alignment shop fix....

From the phone.

I use the string method like Chris but with jack stands and quick clamps vs. a bar. I use blue tape or masking tape and tape the center hub of my wheels and then put a crosshair on the centerline of the wheel. Then I raise my jack stands and clamp a string to them at the centerline height of the wheels. I 3/4/5 triangle off of off everything to ensure it's square. .

Once the strings are parallel and plane thru the center of the wheels at the crosshair you can reference the ride height from the string to the crest of the fenders. You can then move into the alignment portion by measuring from the front of the rims to the string and then the rear of the rims to the string.

What I found that really helped ahead of time was using a string and pencil to geometrically radius two parallel lines 12" larger than my track and length. I snapped waterproof chalk lines on my shop floor thru the X'd intersections to build my squared rectangle (I think that's one of the reasons Chris has a box on the floor).

Hm.. lots to think about.

Bear with me for a few more questions (I am not engineer!):

I see how measuring from string to string in the front and the back will ensure the strings are parallel but how do you know they are lined up with the car (not a parallelogram)?

How do you measure from string to string? I feel like a tape measure or even a long metal ruler would have too much flex to be accurate..

Would it be good enough to use an iPhone level on the door sill to check to make sure the car is level? Edit: Just realized that ride height would obviously effect this lol guess I need a piece of wood.

How important is it to roll the car back and forth? My garage slants downward so I will have to put the rear wheels on wood, thus making it a pain to move the car. I am also considering using J. Fast's clamp method as it will require me to buy/make less stuff. Additionally, if I use suction cups on the bumpers I won't be able to measure from string to string.

Last question: What are the chances my rear toe bolt is seized? 1993 with 170K on it. Very clean underneath for the age, however. Should I just load it up with PB Blaster/etc. and give it a go with a 18" breaker bar? I'm guessing it would be a dumb idea to use an impact on it.

Thank you so much everyone! Aligning the car is one of the only things (other than mounting tires) that I have someone else do for me. I paid $100 last time and the dude did each axle independently, didn't use my specs, and when I checked it later it didn't even have even camber up front. Looking forward to learning how to do this.

your front toe will tell you if the box is straight. If the box isnt straight your steering wheel can't be straight driving down the road. Yea, it's a pain to trial and error your first setup, but without finding your true chassis center and measuring from that your options are limited.