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Toyota Hilux dualcab
I needed a work car but me being me cant just leave a good car standard :rolleyes:.
I wanted a stereo That would work within a few parameters. I wanted it loud but SQ always comes first with me...
1 it had to be stream line enough to not get in the road of my work.
2 I needed the third seat... (for my boy)
3 Needed to be clear but loud. Oh and it has to go low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4 Oh and look good of course.
gear is as followed...
0 and 4 gauge power cable
950 CCA lead acid low maintenance battery
stinger RCAs
Blaupunkt IVDM-7003 indash single din screen replaced now with a Kenwood - KVT534DVD 7 INCH unit.
Blaupunkt VPA-172 splits
Blaupunkt VPW-480 18" sub
Fusion FJL-1211D mono amps x 2
Fusion FJL-4011 4 channel
Audio Control Epic-160/(3.1 I am adding later)
6x1.4m of sound deadening
Oh and lots of Glass :D
Oh shit I forgot my car PC :D
I'll start with the ute.
Its a Toyota Hilux SR Dualcab 4l V6 petrol.
Started like this- here its got 5% window tint, deck lid and 4" King Springs lowering kit. Oh and also signage. Plus I'd cut off the roll bar...
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6545/16780314.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1632/40834506.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5615/72096340.jpg
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I stripped out the interior and laid the sound deadening. I did the floor/roof/back wall and two layers in the doors plus Dynamat diffusers in the front doors.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6199/12096549.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4412/84829403.jpg
These amps are all brand new. I've 4 monos and 4 4 channels left over from when I worked at FUSION. You get a few people bagging FUSION but usually its just big mouths that don't really know what they are on about. Sure FUSION makes some really crap products just like any entry level brand does but the Jonah stuff was bullet proof and never failed we only ever had two come back ever and one was customer error (even SQ wise it is very surprising).
I ran up from a 950 CCA battery 0 gauge power cable with a FUSION 300amp ANL fuse to the amps where I split them into 4 gauge using a Stinger distribution block. I used Stinger twisted pairs RCA's (can't remember model) for the signal.
Ive ran the Amps behind the rear seat. It you have ever worked on one of these you'll know how hard it was to get them there... 70mm of room at best when the seat is folded up.
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9664/20045211.jpg
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/6720/16493008.jpg
Ill throw up the door and tweeter pods later on
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I HAVE A HILUX TOO!!!!!!!!!!
thats amazing, I haven't thought that I'll find someone here that owns a Hilux Vigo :)
you did an amazing job on your car, congrats.
its a little different than what we are doing, at least here in my country with this car as we are not lowering them, we are only lifting them. :)
yours is RWD? does it has a factory LSD? I hate you for the 4.0 liter engine.LOL
here is mine, an ExtraCab, 4x4 , 2.5 D4D rolling on LandCruiser wheels 17" with AT tires
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1977/93729274.jpg
Ilie
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Yea its only RWD and has a LSD. It was funny as doing a complete drift around "around about" with my 6.5m ladder on top... I'm looking at C notching the rear chassis so I can drop it further and there's coilovers available for the front. I'm also looking at running a turbo later on down the track.
Ok I'm upping the door and tweeter pods. I should of taken more photos as I only have pics of them in the roughed out stage onwards and none on the glassing etc.
Here I started with the door card off. Masked up the area I'm getting the shape from I penned the shape I wanted with a black texter and laid a 225 layer of glass chopped mat, 1.5 % hardener. Let it set over night then laid a layer of 600 but with less hardener (1.2%) to ease up on the heat (this will cause it to pull at the edges if to hot) but just enough to let set. . The black texter will come through onto the glass so all I need to do it cut it out. Put my ring into the position I wanted. I then grill clothed the main shape and brushed resin to harden it. I laid a 225 mat let it set then a 400 mat. I make my own bog with vinyl ester resin and qcell. Extremely hard when set but sands beautifully and it is extremely light- if you look at my solid tweeter pods it was a handful of bog slapped into the corner of the dash and A pillar... Oh I did mask the area up first (and watch the heat from this mix as it will go off fast and hard or not at all, its to do with the bulk of the mix). look at the tops of the door pods they were perfect untill I added the bog so it gives you an idea of how hot it will go off. I then put my bog onto the door pods to shape them where I wanted to bulk it up etc. I do use normal bog to finish off where I need to but when you see the difference in weight and hardness, well. Sand it all to shape and primer fill until perfect...
I always use Vinyl Ester resin..................
The reason I use only Vinyl is because its a harder plastic than poly (better for sub boxes) and it shrinks a lot less so it will put the corners nowhere near as much. But beware not to buy to much unless you use it constantly as it will go off in the tin in heat!!! It has a short shelf live (but if you have access to a fridge it will keep for years). Plus it will stick to some plastics better that poly ester, with a little scuffing and Methyl Ethyl Ketone it will stick...
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/6164/83595323.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7792/77866227.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/7580/95870233.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/9807/29743678.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5182/85132046.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/796/32617226.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1077/80951773.jpg
Ill up the finished product later ...
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Well basically I did the same as the doors but on a larger scale... I wanted a fibreglass box that was in the corner of the car..... well the pics will do it justice...
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6587/27907541.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9958/31865554.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/4503/81762618.jpg
I once the base was finished, marked where I was going to cut the final shape. Then mounted the sub frame!!! I actually glassed in all of the brackets as well.
The base looks a little thin in places in the pic but were built up later.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/963/38752905.jpg
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2206/93851109.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/5029/73682916.jpg
Remember this is an 18" sub. It kind of looks like a 15 in this ute for some reason until you get close to it...
I then covered it in grill cloth and gave it a coating of resin.
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2713/94372600.jpg
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6572/56045560.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1020/95859496.jpg
Ill up the glassing of the top etc later...
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All trimmed up and a raw fit in the car to see where it pulled...
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/9586/94260292.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7999/23824883.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5439/43762875.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8906/40165437.jpg
Right all I need to do is fill and prime...
I also on the inside of the box filled all sharp edges and joins (rounded off) with the same mix I used for the tweeter pods and then two layers of 400 chopped class. Adding strength but also spl.
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This is the unit I'm replacing the Blaupunkt IVDM - 7003 indash screen. This was bought bare boned...
These are some of the basic specs:
CPU - x86 family 6 model 14 stepping 8 intel 1.83 GHz core 2 duo
HDD - Laptop 7200 rpm 80 gig
RAM - 2 gig (single)
OPP - W7 32bit and using Centrafuse 3.
http://www.logicsupply.com/images/ph...945VXR_big.jpg
http://www.logicsupply.com/images/ph...R_pic1_big.jpg
http://www.logicsupply.com/images/ph...R_pic2_big.jpg
http://www.logicsupply.com/images/ph...R_pic3_big.jpg
CNET - REVIEW
AOpen MiniPC Duo MP945-VXR Review - Barebones PCs - CNET Reviews
I've also gotten a basic no frills single din indash screen with a res of 1600 x 1200 so I should be happy with that (now up for sale)- have now replaced with Kenwood - KVT534DVD 7 INCH unit.
Using also the CNX-P1900 dual output 140 WATT intelligent DC-DC power regulator...
http://carnetix.com/images/P1900_1.jpg
Features
* 140 Watt Dual Output Regulator
* Jumper selectable main output of +18/+19/+20V
* Jumper selectable secondary output of +12V/+13.5V or +5V
* Optional 3rd output using the CNX - P5V +5v/15 watt regulator.
* Survives Engine Cranking under full load over entire temperature range
* Includes sophisticated Startup/Shutdown Controller
* Includes sturdy aluminum chassis with variable speed fan suitable for car environment
* Field upgradable flash microprocessor
* Low battery monitor prevents drained battery, even during Standy/Sleep
* "Deadman Timer" automatically exits Sleep mode after 72 hours to prevent battery damage
* "Anti Thump" delayed remote control for audio amplifiers
* Remote "Pulse Start" from wireless device or car alarm/remote start system
* Over current protection on both outputs with graceful forced shutdown of main output
* Powers both your CarPC/Mac AND your screen or USB devices
* Compatible with Mac mini including startup and sleep mode
* Compatible with Pentium P4-based systems such as Travla C158-120, Sumicom S630, or Xenarc SC8*
* Full, safe support for Windows Standby mode including auto shutdown if PC fails to shutdown
* Over voltage surge suppression on battery input for protection of harsh automotive environment
* User replaceable fuse on battery input to protect your car from internal short circuits
* Very compact design measuring 4.6" x 3.25" x 1.75" (L x W x H) or 117mm x 83mm x 45mm.
This will be going into my work ute so it should prove to be very interesting...
From there I'll be using a 4.1 or 3.1 Audiocontrol crossover and a Audiocontrol epic 160...
I've decided as I've over 4TB of music and movies I would setup a laptop hot swappable docking port for ease of use. I can then swap drives as needed. Plus jaming a HDD into a hole in my dash would look quite cool!!!
