My billet TD04 build
by
, 09-11-2012 at 01:18 PM (15076 Views)
I've never used this blog before so we'll see how this goes.
I'm not usually one to make build threads until I'm done and have results. I do enjoy reading other people's builds even in progress so for all those that have been bugging me here it is.
I didn't want to spend 2 years working on my car like my last build so I decided to keep it simple this time. A fast, reliable, simple bolt-on TD04 car can be quite a bit of fun on the street so that's what I was after. Who knows what will be next.
Here's a run down of my mod list:
MTC Devastators with 9-blade turbine wheel
DrWeldin upgraded stock wastegate actuators
ARC-2 92mm MAF
3" FMIC
720cc injectors
Hotwired Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
EK2 fuel rail loop
NGK R5671A-8 Non Projected Tip plugs gapped at 0.028"
Solid F&R motor mounts
Poly driver and passenger motor mounts
Krank Vents
Spec 3+ clutch
DN 02 housings
DR 3.5" downpipe and dual exhaust
BlackStealth's LCD Boost Controller with MAC solenoid
AEM UEGO wideband
AEM oil pressure gauge
Unorthodox lightweight crank pulley
2" Aluminum radiator
Odyssey PC680 battery
Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters
Adjustable rear control arms
Corbeau CR1 seats
I may be forgetting a few things but that's pretty much it. This is all on a bone stock motor with 126k miles and I just changed out all the bearings. 0.015" mains and 0.015-18" rods. I wanted to know what I was dealing with before I decided to push the motor. I'm not going all out on this mainly because of the 2nd gen ringlands and stock rods but I plan to run E85 as high as these turbos go if the motor doesn't pop first.
Here's a comparison of my new billet turbos vs the GT-368SX turbos that were in the car.
I could only run 14 psi on 91 pump with the 368s before I started knocking. This was due to an inefficient radiator and the ecu slightly advancing the timing because of the larger 720cc injectors; only about 2-3 degrees from what I could tell. The biggest issue was one of the previous owners had a parts store radiator in which isn't even as good as OEM. My temps were always 195 or higher. If I even saw a few psi it would shoot up to 200-205. It never overheated but I had to throw more fuel at it because of this. Now with the 2" radiator my temps are 176 degrees rock solid and usually don't get much higher than that. I'm running stock fans and need to make ducting for the FMIC core.
First impressions on the Devastators was a noticeable improvement in torque around the 2-3k area. The car was easier to drive around. I didn't have that feeling of lag just tooling around. The turbos are louder and I can hear them spool much better over the 368s. Peak power is harder to redline which some of that I contribute to the upgraded wastegates cracking open at 12 psi instead of 6 psi stock. Before I ran the 368s knock free on a 91/E85 mix ~E40 to 17 psi. First time out with the Devastators I was running 18 psi knock free after a quick 5 minute retune to 11.5:1 AFR WOT. Later that night I boosted up to 23 psi knock free and didn't go any further mainly because it was my first outing with the car since I swapped the turbos in. I was very pleased with the power anyways.
I had a few friends help me for a few hours during the time I was replacing worn parts plus swapping turbos. I promised them a ride and needed a second opinion on the car anyways. Lol. They both could definitely feel the car pulling harder and spooling sooner. Mostly they were shocked by "cute" little turbos on a bone stock motor. I just laughed.
Currently I'm only at 19 psi due to developing some boost and vacuum leaks. After a 3rd gear pull I popped something loose because my idle started hunting around a little and I noticed my tune was slightly off. I need to go borrow an air compressor and pressure test this weekend. 0-60 in this car goes extremely quick. My 3rd gear synchro is shot so it doesn't like fast shifts which means I either do 1st through 2nd gear pulls or start in 3rd. Honestly, it's a blast in 1st and 2nd. I have my suspension dialed in to where the car doesn't point to the sky and grips very well even on 245 high performance summer tires. Turns are its weakness though.
I knew I wanted more than 500AWHP which was one of the reasons I hadn't gotten around to pushing the 368 turbos further plus I wanted better spool too. They started spooling at 2300 rpms and hit full boost by 3600 which really wasn't bad. Coming from V8s I miss the low end torque from time to time.
I hope to get a dyno on 91 pump to see what kind of numbers these turbos put out. From there I will turn it up on E85 and see where I go. At 23 psi I didn't get spark plug blowout with my new coils, ptu, plug wires, and NGK non-projected tip spark plugs but I have a HKS DLI sitting on the shelf waiting for me to install. I'd like to see how far this hotwired aeromotive pump will take me before I either put the Kenne Bell BAP on or order the lines I need to go with the rest of my dual pump/feed kit.
I would love to build a fully forged 3.0L motor to swap in since I already have DR Stage III heads, 272 cams, Unorthodox cam gears, and DR ported lower intake sitting with my 3.5L stroker left over from my last build, but I'm not sure if I can justify the cost of a built 3.0L given I intended to make this a budget build in the first place. Some of that will be evolving and probably breaking that purpose completely. Lol. Who knows maybe I'll swap the stroker in for a monster torque machine.
This winter I plan to swap in my IPS racing oil pan once they send me the 4-bolt oil pan I ordered instead of this 2-bolt they sent me. I'll address the fuel accordingly to what obstacles I face. Right now my 6-speed has billet shift forks in it but has no bell housing brace from my knowledge so instead of doing that and fixing 3rd gear I will be swapping in a 5-speed with upgraded OS, Quaife front diff, 1-piece CFDS, and SS transfercase. If money permits I will get a SCE center diff to install but seeing as I went back to college after a long haitus I won't be able to spend money on my car other than what parts I can sell and reinvest in the car. I also have aluminum front and rear subframe bushings, still looking for rear diff bushings, and plan to powercoat/restore what I can underneath this winter when I swap in a 5-speed.
Things will be subject to change. I always change my mind on the car partially because I get too bored if I'm not working on it although lately I have been enjoying driving it more because it's a blast.Sept. 28th is the only test and tune this month and possibly the last one for the year. I plan to go unless we get rained out again like last time. I'll just shoot for low 12s so I don't disappoint myself since I won't be doing a hardcore launch due to the unbraced bell housing. I have raced a few friends sitting at 11.3-11.5 in the 1/4 mile and beat them by 1-2 car lengths at the end of 4th so we'll see what happens. I don't doubt at 23 psi it was very close to 500AWHP or a hair under. That's a conservative guess since I don't know but I do plan to get it on the dyno.