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View Full Version : AWD how hard is it to replace wheel bearing in a vr4?



thor'svr4
09-21-2010, 09:34 PM
I was thinking about replacing the passenger side rear wheel bearing this weekend but I’ve heard that its incredibly hard to do. it doesn’t look to hard in the book, but I have a feeling that nothing is going to come apart easily.

What do you guys think?
Anyone got any tips or advice?

Geordon
09-21-2010, 11:21 PM
I don't know how hard it is to do yourself, but I had both front wheel bearing/hubs replaced at a local shop, and as with anything else on this old car, 18 winters of salt takes it toll. I was charged 2 1/2 hr labor for each corner. Total job cost me about $625 in parts, labor, shop supplies, tax, etc, etc.

Rom3BreaK
09-21-2010, 11:27 PM
I'm also interested in any advice. I have the new part waiting to go in one of these days; maybe I'll do a write up for the new site when I get around to it.

Jimvr4
09-24-2010, 01:18 AM
I don't know how hard it is to do yourself, but I had both front wheel bearing/hubs replaced at a local shop, and as with anything else on this old car, 18 winters of salt takes it toll. I was charged 2 1/2 hr labor for each corner. Total job cost me about $625 in parts, labor, shop supplies, tax, etc, etc.

Ouch. It's really not hard at all to replace the front hubs. I just had mine out to replace a broken wheel stud. All you have to do is disconnect the tie rod end and mark and disconnect the eccentric bolts from the strut. You have to break the axel nut free with a 32mm socket and a 24 inch breaker bar (need car in gear and helper pushing on the brakes). Then you disconnect the caliper, pull the rotor, and the axel can be pushed out of the hub.

Here's a pic. Just need to break the 4 17mm nuts that hold the hub to the knuckle.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/20680a90.jpg

Jimvr4
09-24-2010, 01:21 AM
I was thinking about replacing the passenger side rear wheel bearing this weekend but I’ve heard that its incredibly hard to do. it doesn’t look to hard in the book, but I have a feeling that nothing is going to come apart easily.

What do you guys think?
Anyone got any tips or advice?

I only did the fronts so I can't comment on how hard it is to do the rears.

RealMcCoy
09-24-2010, 01:48 AM
It's pretty easy if you have the right tools... How equipped are you to do that kind of work? I use a slide hammer with a hub attachment to pull the hub, and a press to remove/install the anti lock tone ring and outer bearing. I just knock the inner bearing out with a large punch and a hammer.

Edit: I hope I don't sound like an ass, but how did you determine which bearing is bad? I just did one a couple weeks ago that I would have bet hard cash was the right rear, but when I got it on the rack and started testing, it ended up being the left rear. Those noises can transfer all over the car and really fool you.

Jimvr4
09-24-2010, 09:04 AM
It's pretty easy if you have the right tools... How equipped are you to do that kind of work? I use a slide hammer with a hub attachment to pull the hub, and a press to remove/install the anti lock tone ring and outer bearing. I just knock the inner bearing out with a large punch and a hammer.

Edit: I hope I don't sound like an ass, but how did you determine which bearing is bad? I just did one a couple weeks ago that I would have bet hard cash was the right rear, but when I got it on the rack and started testing, it ended up being the left rear. Those noises can transfer all over the car and really fool you.

Larry, I had to google slide hammer. I don't own one and had no idea what it was. Does the hub attachment need to be a particular size to work with our cars? Do you have any pictures to show how you do the job?

green-lantern
09-24-2010, 09:54 AM
I'd say you need a press or take it somewhere to press them out. I haven’t done the rear ether but have done the front. 3SX has the front hub for a good price if anybody is needing to do theirs.

R/T93
09-24-2010, 09:34 PM
You dont need any slide hammers or any of that nonsense. If your suspension isnt rusted to shit you should be able to tap the rear of the studs with a hammer and get the bearing out. A new bearing has new studs so dont worry about damaging the old ones so much.

In fact I did my Stealth bearings last spring and they pretty much came out by hand (1st gen TT front brakes)

RealMcCoy
09-24-2010, 09:37 PM
You dont need any slide hammers or any of that nonsense. If your suspension isnt rusted to shit you should be able to tap the rear of the studs with a hammer and get the bearing out. A new bearing has new studs so dont worry about damaging the old ones so much.

In fact I did my Stealth bearings last spring and they pretty much came out by hand (1st gen TT front brakes)

That "nonsense" was in regard to the subject of this thread, the REAR bearings... :D

CoreyB
09-24-2010, 09:45 PM
The rear bearings are inner and outer per side for a VR4. One bearing comes out toward the differential. The other toward the wheel, It is difficult to determine one bad one until dis assembly, I recommend doing the inner and outer at the same time,.

AF Twin Turbo
09-24-2010, 10:48 PM
the slide hammer is very simple to use, and will break the hub off quickly. you can rent one from an auto parts store for maybe 5-10 bucks, and the attachments you need for the lugs will come with the set. if i were you, i'd buy all 4 bearings for the rear (inner and outer) and do them all at the same time, it's a half hour job, very easy. i can't remember step by step how to do it as it's been 2 years since i sold my car and i can't just look at the axle and explain.

R/T93
09-24-2010, 11:11 PM
That "nonsense" was in regard to the subject of this thread, the REAR bearings... :D

Damn, foot in mouth. Lol, sorry.

Yea you will need some special tools :)

deemo99
09-25-2010, 08:47 AM
I have only done the fronts, but I didn't think they were too difficult. I did not need a press or slide hammer on our 95 which is just under 100k at the time I replaced them. Given the fronts bolt into place they were significantly easier than on my DSM which were a press fit and a major PITA by comparison. I used a gear puller to get the hub to slide on the half shaft and it was cake from there.

wraith
09-25-2010, 09:20 PM
For the fronts, you just need to loosen the castle nut enough to push the axle in so you can get to the bolts with an open wrench. Once you take them all off, the bearing can be pryed out from the front unless its really rusted. If its really rusted, you might be banging on it for days trying to get it off and in some cases have to take the whole shebang off the car to get it pressed off. Remember to put anti-seize on it all when it goes back. For the rear, you have to unbolt the flange that holds the axle together and inside that flange on the wheel side is a nut inside. Take the nut off and after taking the wheel off of course, bang the whole axle out and one bearing will stay on the axle, the inner one usually jams inside the housing. No need to take the reluctor ring off and I would not touch it.

Sam

RealMcCoy
09-25-2010, 09:25 PM
No need to take the reluctor ring off and I would not touch it.

Sam

And what form of magic will you be using to get the outer bearing off with that reluctor ring in the way...? :D

x2xtreme360
09-25-2010, 11:00 PM
I've done the rears.

It's not hard up to the bearing part. You need to disconnect the 4 bolts holding the CV shaft to the axle. Once that's off, you need to break the axle nut free. Take it from me first hand... if you have an impact, use it. Advance has a kit for rent that contains the right size sockets and they are BLACK (for an impact gun) so they wont shatter. Hold the hub still with a tire iron and simply break the bolt free with the impact. Once that's off, use a slide hammer to remove the axle. It literally take all but 3 seconds to get it out. Harbor Freight sells a nice one for cheap and I'm sure Autozone or Advance has one for rent... all these parts are free. Basically they require a deposit that you get refunded when you return them. Okay, now that the axle/hub assembly is out, it HAS to go to a shop to have the bearings removed and pressed in. I tried everything to remove them. I actually ended up almost ruining the threads on the axle trying to get the bearings out. They WILL NOT come out without a press.

Good news is that the shop wont charge you the labor for getting to the bearings and it should cost you less than $20 to get the new ones pressed in.

Also, you should buy a new locking nut for the axle. I'm pretty sure they are not supposed to go on twice as I couldn't torque the bolt to the 180 ft lbs Mitsubishi recommends without causing the hub to not be able to spin freely.

RealMcCoy
09-26-2010, 03:03 AM
Larry, I had to google slide hammer. I don't own one and had no idea what it was. Does the hub attachment need to be a particular size to work with our cars? Do you have any pictures to show how you do the job?

The hub attachment is a pretty common size... We have the same bolt pattern as the last 40 years of Fords, and many Mopars.

I don't have many pics. I took a few with my phone last time I did one, but the only one that came out was the this one: (using a gear puller to remove the ABS reluctor)
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k252/lnmccoy/RearBrg.jpg

jba3
09-27-2010, 01:33 PM
It cost me a few hairs under $1,000 to have one rear bearing and an alignment done on my VR4 last year. Would have done it myself, but it was 3 days before my wedding, and I needed the car for the wedding. That was a painful repair to pay for. :o

CoreyB
09-27-2010, 01:42 PM
You got robbed.

wraith
09-29-2010, 07:32 PM
And what form of magic will you be using to get the outer bearing off with that reluctor ring in the way...? :D


I actually just went out to the garage to look at the axles I have sitting on my garage floor and realized I used axle assemblies which is why I never took them off the old one :) getting old ;)

I had a mechanic do one side and after that my ABS never worked again because he chewed up the reluctor taking it off. When I did both sides all over in the back, I bought them assembled from Mitsu and pushed the inner one on when it went back in. Unfortunately, the mechanic also damaged the sensor and broke the mounting bolt into the hole that holds the tab for the ABS sensor and then broke a tap into it trying to fix it. I have to replace that whole arm now, but never got to do it this summer. Need to get the subframe blasted and powder coated as well.

Sam

Jimvr4
09-30-2010, 12:46 PM
I actually just went out to the garage to look at the axles I have sitting on my garage floor and realized I used axle assemblies which is why I never took them off the old one :) getting old ;)

I had a mechanic do one side and after that my ABS never worked again because he chewed up the reluctor taking it off. When I did both sides all over in the back, I bought them assembled from Mitsu and pushed the inner one on when it went back in. Unfortunately, the mechanic also damaged the sensor and broke the mounting bolt into the hole that holds the tab for the ABS sensor and then broke a tap into it trying to fix it. I have to replace that whole arm now, but never got to do it this summer. Need to get the subframe blasted and powder coated as well.

Sam

Sam, That will teach you for using a "mechanic" :lol:

OhioSpyderman
09-30-2010, 01:17 PM
Alrighty guys, I did my rear inners last fall (which cleared up my rumbling noise that I had coming from the rear), but the rumbling has returned.
I just bought outers and hadn't thought about the reluctor rings. I have a 3 jawwed gear/pulley puller (I'm thinking the jaws are about 6" long). Can I use this on the reluctor rings or will I need longer jaws?

Any input is greatly appreciated :)

Bob.

CoreyB
09-30-2010, 01:18 PM
I heated the ring and tapped it off with a hammer and a block of wood so to not damage it. Didnt take much heat and it came right off.

RealMcCoy
09-30-2010, 01:28 PM
Alrighty guys, I did my rear inners last fall (which cleared up my rumbling noise that I had coming from the rear), but the rumbling has returned.
I just bought outers and hadn't thought about the reluctor rings. I have a 3 jawwed gear/pulley puller (I'm thinking the jaws are about 6" long). Can I use this on the reluctor rings or will I need longer jaws?

Any input is greatly appreciated :)

Bob.

The reluctor rings are not a problem with a gear puller or a press... The outer bearings can be a little more of a challenge. I use the press to get them off.

OhioSpyderman
09-30-2010, 01:29 PM
And are the bearings themselves easy to get off once the rings are removed?

Bob.

OhioSpyderman
09-30-2010, 01:29 PM
grrr...no press and no access to one, would a local autoparts place have a press to remove them?

Bob.

CoreyB
09-30-2010, 01:55 PM
The bearing is tuff because there is no room to get behind it. Mine actually slid when pulling the axle which made it easy. A little heat will help here as well. Will burn a little grease but its bad anyway.

songsay ratana
09-30-2010, 05:34 PM
the slide hammer is very simple to use, and will break the hub off quickly. you can rent one from an auto parts store for maybe 5-10 bucks, and the attachments you need for the lugs will come with the set. if i were you, i'd buy all 4 bearings for the rear (inner and outer) and do them all at the same time, it's a half hour job, very easy. i can't remember step by step how to do it as it's been 2 years since i sold my car and i can't just look at the axle and explain.

We did this on your car on the side of my house in a matter of a couple of hours.
So difficulty is a relative term in accordance to skill level and experience.

OhioSpyderman
10-01-2010, 06:41 PM
SUCCESS!!!!!! My driver side outer bearing was toast (wobbled). Only bad thing was having to pay a dealership (local Chevy dealer) $72 to do the press work (pissed me off too, cuz I was helping the damned tech :( ).

Still not bad though, I only paid $8 per bearing, so total cost for a now QUIET ride was $88 :)

(any YES, I did ALL the work myself :) )

Bob.

Jimvr4
10-01-2010, 08:39 PM
SUCCESS!!!!!! My driver side outer bearing was toast (wobbled). Only bad thing was having to pay a dealership (local Chevy dealer) $72 to do the press work (pissed me off too, cuz I was helping the damned tech :( ).

Still not bad though, I only paid $8 per bearing, so total cost for a now QUIET ride was $88 :)

(any YES, I did ALL the work myself :) )

Bob.

Bob, How easy is it to tell if you have a problem? I have about the same # of miles as you and I can't recall hearing anything from back there. Are the inner bearings also that cheap?

CoreyB
10-01-2010, 08:44 PM
Inners and outers are about the same cost. Not worth it to replace one and not the other though.

Jimvr4
10-01-2010, 08:47 PM
Inners and outers are about the same cost. Not worth it to replace one and not the other though.

That's what I was thinking. It's already apart so do both at the same time.

OhioSpyderman
10-01-2010, 09:23 PM
Bob, How easy is it to tell if you have a problem? I have about the same # of miles as you and I can't recall hearing anything from back there. Are the inner bearings also that cheap?

Jim, the problem was with my Stealth, not the Spyder....

When this started (over a year ago) I got advice from Ray/Steve that the inner bearings were most likely the cause, so I replaced them (cost per was ~ $24 per). As mentioned, it seemed to correct the problem...but alas it came back with a furry about 3 months ago...

I snagged the outer bearings off www.rockauto.com for $8.xx per bearing...had I had access to a press, other than my sweat, this could have been a really easy/CHEAP fix :)

My Stealth has ~ 104K, the Spyder ~ 106K.....

No issues with the ass end of the Spyder :)

Bob. :)

Hans@GZP
10-02-2010, 07:44 PM
I just buy the whole hub assembly with bearings on it from the dealer. That way I don't risk messing anything up while taking everything apart. It makes the job so much quicker and easier. Plus you get all new wheel studs to replace those old and tired ones on the car.

OhioSpyderman
10-02-2010, 07:54 PM
Price per side Hansie?

Bob. :)

IPD
10-02-2010, 07:59 PM
I just buy the whole hub assembly with bearings on it from the dealer. That way I don't risk messing anything up while taking everything apart. It makes the job so much quicker and easier. Plus you get all new wheel studs to replace those old and tired ones on the car.

i had to make a 30 minute run to sears for a 12mm allen wrench. by the time i got back, milt had already installed the new ones on the knuckles i have waiting to go on my car. 3sx is full of win. milt is full of win.

Hans@GZP
10-02-2010, 09:38 PM
Price per side Hansie?

Bob. :)

I believe the rears are about $175 each and the fronts are $80 each.

Hans@GZP
10-02-2010, 09:40 PM
i had to make a 30 minute run to sears for a 12mm allen wrench. by the time i got back, milt had already installed the new ones on the knuckles i have waiting to go on my car. 3sx is full of win. milt is full of win.

Fronts are cake for sure. Rears are extremely easy if you buy the whole assembly, especially if you are lacking special tools to do the job. It makes it a driveway job.

OhioSpyderman
10-03-2010, 10:06 AM
I believe the rears are about $175 each and the fronts are $80 each.

Then I guess I did good @ $44 per side :)

Bob.

Jimvr4
10-03-2010, 11:19 AM
Then I guess I did good @ $44 per side :)

Bob.

IMO, the fronts would be worth the $80 per side if your studs were in poor shape. I just did all my front studs and re-used the hubs since they had no play in them.

thor'svr4
10-12-2010, 11:35 AM
wow i hadnt checked this since page 1.
well i did do my right rear wheel bearing without any special tools, except for a pvc pipe and impact gun but those arent really 'special' lol.
everything went together nicely. i was given all the parts to replace both the inner and outter wheel bearing when i bought the car 3 years ago. i even had a new abs gear! im assuming it was the right rear because all the parts said r/r ______. for example r/r bearing inner, r/r/ bearing outer, ect. i havent had a chance to drive the car since but the wheel spins freely (much nicer than it used to) and there is no more play in my wheel. i used to be able to tilt the top of the wheel in and out, but now its solid. ill find out for sure this weekend.

OhioSpyderman
10-12-2010, 12:04 PM
wow i hadnt checked this since page 1.
well i did do my right rear wheel bearing without any special tools, except for a pvc pipe and impact gun but those arent really 'special' lol.
everything went together nicely. i was given all the parts to replace both the inner and outter wheel bearing when i bought the car 3 years ago. i even had a new abs gear! im assuming it was the right rear because all the parts said r/r ______. for example r/r bearing inner, r/r/ bearing outer, ect. i havent had a chance to drive the car since but the wheel spins freely (much nicer than it used to) and there is no more play in my wheel. i used to be able to tilt the top of the wheel in and out, but now its solid. ill find out for sure this weekend.

With the inners you can do that....outers you absolutely must have a press....

Bob. :)

thor'svr4
10-12-2010, 10:37 PM
http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/Service-Manual-3000GT-1992-1996-Volume-1.pdf

do you mean part #10 on page 708? not sure why you would need a press... thats what the pvc pipe and hammer are for. the axle shaft has 'ridges' built into it so you cant accidently push the bearing on to far or not far enough.

CoreyB
10-12-2010, 10:49 PM
No need for a press, been there done that. I didnt even use the PVC method.

OhioSpyderman
10-13-2010, 08:55 AM
Well, you guys must be supermen, because I couldn't even budge the reluctor ring (let alone the bearing) with a gear puller. It took quite a bit of pressure from the press to break the reluctor rings on both sides. The bearings came off fairly easily with the press (and back on....and they CAN be pressed on too far, mine were and wouldn't spin....they had to be brought back out about a 1/16")

Bob.

CoreyB
10-13-2010, 09:25 AM
I used some heat and the reluctor ring almost feel off.

ilian51378
07-23-2012, 03:35 PM
Are there two bearings per wheel in the front as well or is it just one? I need to do mine and would like to purchase all the parts I need... Thanks!

Primus101
07-23-2012, 04:09 PM
Are there two bearings per wheel in the front as well or is it just one? I need to do mine and would like to purchase all the parts I need... Thanks!


With the AWD, the 2 halves of the hub make up the bearing, just replace the hub & torque the axle to spec as that determines the bearing preload-

ilian51378
07-23-2012, 06:56 PM
With the AWD, the 2 halves of the hub make up the bearing, just replace the hub & torque the axle to spec as that determines the bearing preload-

Okay, so just to make sure, this will not do the trick:

http://www.carparts.com/details/Mitsubishi/3000GT/Koyo/Wheel_Bearing/1995/VR-4/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/W0133-1731738.html?loc=Front

And for that reason, I will need this:

3000GT Lancer Evo w/AWD Front Wheel Hub & Bearing NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3000GT-Lancer-Evo-w-AWD-Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-NEW-/130707285574?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A3000GT%7CSubmodel%3AVR-4&hash=item1e6ec2e646&vxp=mtr)

Please confirm. Thanks!

Primus101
07-23-2012, 08:13 PM
Second link looks correct- you gotta take those ebay compatibility listings with a grain of salt....