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View Full Version : AWD A Comparison: Hub / Wheel Bearing Assemblies



knighty
06-12-2012, 02:16 AM
Part #: MR223993
Ordered: 2012 June
Paid: $87.68/ea from Cherry Hill Triplex
Part: FRONT WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY
Left: See above
Right: 1993 Dodge Stealth RT/TT OEM
Weight:
New = 7.8lbs
Original = 9.0lbs

Most of this weight would seem to come from the much thinner disc that mates to the lugs. New = .28inches, Original = .5 inches. There is also some considerable sculpting done to the knuckle side as as well. The newer piece is much more contoured, less blocky.

There are no studs to deal with any longer, assuming so this could be a more "universal" part. Bolts come with instead. While the original configuration nutted on at the back of the knuckle, this cofiguration now bolts on through the back of the knuckle to the hub itself, hence they provide a threaded hub and lock washers for them to attach into. No nuts.

Cons:
-New studs and bolts look of a lesser strength rating and quality. Original wheel studs and hub studs were longer and heavily zinc plated. My original studs and bolts look pretty good for being 20 years old and from Illinois. New bolts and studs are raw or nasty modern zinc plated (if plated). May rust tomorrow.
-New studs are E rated. Old studs were N (or Z?) rated.

Bearing quality:
New are marked with an additional HR lettering across from the bearing number. Not sure what that stands for. Part number DACF2044M.

Old bearings are DACF2044B. Assuming just the Mth revision that they are on and not bearing load indicator.

Spin effort: The new wheel hub assemblies are considerably harder to turn than the old. Assuming after 100,000 miles they will loosen up a bit though.

4229
4230
4231
4232
4233

knighty
06-12-2012, 02:20 AM
4234
4235

Broomfield Racing
06-12-2012, 09:59 AM
Any price info? I just bought a new set on ebay for my DD. Bought the cheapest ones I could find, $65 each.

R/T93
06-12-2012, 10:20 AM
They are only like 80-90 from mitsu

knighty
06-12-2012, 11:02 AM
$87.68 / ea from Cherry Hill Triplex. Mitsuparts.com

Broomfield Racing
06-12-2012, 11:04 AM
Much cheaper than I expected. I think I'll return my ebay cheepo's and get these. Thank you.

knighty
06-12-2012, 11:06 AM
You're welcome.

Do you have time to throw some pics up of yours from Ebay? What bearings do they use? Weight?

Broomfield Racing
06-12-2012, 12:38 PM
Here are the photos of the ebay bearing. Similar to your new one. I don't have a scale right now but I would bet it's very close to your new one.

The bearing is unmarked.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/Mayhempics/964cd152.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/Mayhempics/5cc42f46.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/Mayhempics/93f2c88c.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/Mayhempics/8b62adcc.jpg

knighty
06-12-2012, 03:29 PM
Those are remarkably similar. It's amazing what "ebay" is capable of sometimes.

I would like to see some stock 97 and stock 99 AWD front wheel hubs posted up on here for comparison. I'd like to know if this was a legitimate 'revision' of our hub in the timeline of the production of the car or if the parts that we are getting from Mitsubishi are universal replacement parts that have taken over the old part number.

I don't think it matters all that much, and hey, my car is now almost 4lbs lighter :p ...

Some people spend a lot of time protesting that the engineering done on this vehicle in it's original implementation is very important to keep. That any little thing you do is a sin against the original engineers and so on and so on. I think if we look at instances like this we will find out definitively if that is the case or not... or at least if Mitsubishi themselves believes these things are as important as those protesters claim.

Another idea is... are these bearings really the best we could be using? If the bearings are only $20 bucks or so from Mitsu they are even cheaper from Koyo directly or through a wholesaler. In the end they are just wheel bearings, but with everything that we are doing to these cars... I wouldn't mind learning a thing or two about wheel bearings in the process and find out the answers to things like the amount of force it should take to spin one of these, etc.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CKYBEBYwAw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skf.com%2Ffiles%2F005030.pdf&ei=RZnXT9SsFIbs8wS9t4HiAw&usg=AFQjCNFnJluBEvZav9uixuVyl09I-_ympQ&sig2=lHCf7Wf-CrdV624wwTxppA <-- explanation of the physics behind suitable wheel bearing selection -- over my head. : (

i3igpete
06-12-2012, 10:34 PM
not a bad price, all things considered. seems like it would be easier to buy a new whole wheelbearing assy than swapping out snapped wheels studs.

R/T93
06-13-2012, 12:13 AM
The wheel studs are so easy to remove and install.... A lugnut, punch, and a hammer is all you need.

i3igpete
06-13-2012, 01:37 AM
i thought it doesn't go in straight so you have to angle grind the knuckle to make clearance?

edit: found it
http://www.stealth316.com/images/wsr-notch.jpg