I hate having a bad 2nd gear sychro!!!

[hotGTO]

:mad: I love my new 91 Stealth TT, but it has a bad second gear synchro and it makes me look like I can't drive a 5 speed very well because I have to pause for so long to shift!!! It sucks because I want to row the shifter and instead it's more like:

WhaaaaaapWhoosh, let me do a fucking crossword puzzle while everyone thinks I can't find 2nd, Whaaaaapwhoosh,whaaaaaaaaaapwhoosh,Whaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaap.......

Or worse, When my instinct takes over sometimes and I throw it down just to hear the cringe inducing sound of gears being tortured!

I HATE IT! :mad:

[Austin@STM]

I feel your pain, i drove around all last year with a bad 2nd gear, but i just slammed it in anyways :p

There are usually good trannies for sale in the classifieds for a decent price. Or go with a rebuilt Kormex or 3sx unit.

[hotGTO]

What is the least expensive, buying a trans or repairing the synchro? Does it break down to having to rebuild the whole tranny to fix the problem?

[hotGTO]

I feel your pain, i drove around all last year with a bad 2nd gear, but i just slammed it in anyways :p

There are usually good trannies for sale in the classifieds for a decent price. Or go with a rebuilt Kormex or 3sx unit.

Can you just slam it hard enough that it doesn't grind? Will that kill the tranny by eating chunks off the gears?

[Flamer]

Yeah shit SUCKS! Same thing happened to me.

[blindmist]

Same here. I personally do Sudoku, but it's all preference.

[MR2]

I went through a new 2nd syncro in 6 months :)

[hotGTO]

It probably makes it interesting for the guy who is trying to race you when he thinks he's about to catch you.... LOL

[hotGTO]

I went through a new 2nd syncro in 6 months :)

That had to hurt your feelings! LOL So what do you do, replace trans or replace synchro?

[MR2]

well, I replaced the syncro at the same time as installing the billet end case + front LSD + Center LSD

second did not feel any different nor have any trouble going into it even when they said it was completely worn...so maybe your engagement Hub is also damaged?

[B-Man]

I know the feeling :( I burned my up at the NG drags. Haven't been able to afford a fix yet.

[Austin@STM]

Can you just slam it hard enough that it doesn't grind? Will that kill the tranny by eating chunks off the gears?

NO!! I wouldnt suggest it, you can really damage something that way. Thats just what i did because i new i was replacing it anyways, and thought it was funny. I even launched in 2nd gear at the track once just so i didnt have to shift, it was pretty funny.

Either get it fixed or just baby second gear for now.

[92RT-TT]

Definitely do not slam it into 2nd unless you do plan to buy a new 2nd gear syncro and or other parts as well. You'll not only damage the gear but could cause damage to the rest of the transmission too.

I rebuild vr4 transmissions so I've seen some nasty stuff when people slam grinding gears.

If you do need a new transmission, I have a perfect condition 25 spline for sale, or I can rebuild your current transmission as I do that on the side. (done 6 so far including the one in my vr4 in my sig :)).

[beepbeep]

Having a bad synchro sucks, but replacing the bitch sux, too.

[92RT-TT]

I also install them, I've got a hoist and all that good stuff. If you ever made it out my way I could have it in and have you on your way in a day no problem :)

[hotGTO]

I sorta thought that's what you meant... you only slammed it because you didn't care about trashing it, LOL... I have a feeling I will shortly be an unwilling pro at digging into these gear boxes... LOL <weeping> LOL

[Flamer]

Just rev-match upon the gear change to prevent any more damage.

[MR2]

1st to second is a hard one to match when your blasting along :)

especially when it's raining and your spinning all 4 tires and want to keep it going into second :p

[Sin'sVr4]

My tranny smoked itself, (bearing destroyed all my gears), had to have all new gears and syncros installed. If I were u, I would just ensure once its apart to replace what ever is needed at that time. If you just replace the 2nd gear syncro, and nothing else , your waiting for the inevitable to happen. Do it right the first time or you'll pay for it in the long run

MIke

[MR2]

yeah that too...I got all bearings + seals replaced :) (that was 6 mo ago)

FWIW I've yet to have a problem getting into a gear when the car is warm on GL5 gear oil. not recommended for our gearboxes though!

[blindmist]

GL-5 isn't good for our transmissions, you need to get GL-4!!

[MR2]

yes but GL5 work so WELL!

[blindmist]

yes but GL5 work so WELL!

lol, I have run both actually and I cannot tell the difference between the 4 and 5 besides the amount of brass that is in the oil. There was a lot more brass in the GL-5

[92RT-TT]

My tranny smoked itself, (bearing destroyed all my gears), had to have all new gears and syncros installed. If I were u, I would just ensure once its apart to replace what ever is needed at that time. If you just replace the 2nd gear syncro, and nothing else , your waiting for the inevitable to happen. Do it right the first time or you'll pay for it in the long run

MIke


yeah that too...I got all bearings + seals replaced :) (that was 6 mo ago)

FWIW I've yet to have a problem getting into a gear when the car is warm on GL5 gear oil. not recommended for our gearboxes though!

+2, when I rebuild transmissions, its pretty much a given that all bearings get replaced and all seals. I dont mess around with bearings and seals because people pay good money for me to rebuild the transmissions, and to have a bearing go out would just be horrible when they could have had them replaced for a little more and saved having to get the tranny rebuilt a second time.

[MR2]

Just found a seller doing 4L (gallon) for $95...guess I'll try some MT-90 (we don't have MT-85 yet)

[Austin@STM]

Just found a seller doing 4L (gallon) for $95...guess I'll try some MT-90 (we don't have MT-85 yet)

Thats a lot of money for MT-90, we sell it for 13.50 a quart. you do the math :p its a lot cheaper even with shipping.

-Austin@STM

[MR2]

even with shipping... to Australia...?

[Austin@STM]

PM sent

[blindmist]

This is how we do it.

[MR2]

? shipping to Australia for anything starts at ~$45 USD...my price of $95 is AUD

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

along with the other suggestions you can try to double clutch until you get a new syncro.

Don't use it at all if you can't make it not grind. The slider/hub/3 piece syncro/ and 2nd gear are about $1000 for new parts.

I shifted from 1st to 3rd for 6 months when I wiped out my 2nd syncro.

[HLxDrummer]

The longer I wait for mine the worse it gets! Just completely blocks me out. If i shift right at 3,000 RPM at the right speed it will slide in nice but most of the time it bounces the shifter all around if I do it quick or blocks me out all together lol No grinding though.. it's wierd. Double clutching helps and is the only way to downshift into second but it's still pretty cranky :(

[92RT-TT]

Either way, the more you use it, the more you abuse it and you'll just make it so you may have to have the gear, and or other parts replaced that wouldn't be necessary if you just skip 2nd gear or have it rebuilt sooner then later.

[hotGTO]

Well, I have a leak in this trans that I need to track down, but in the mean time I topped off the gearbox with oil tonight and she shifts a lot smoother now, although I do still need to ease it into second to keep it from binding.....

[92RT-TT]

One common thing that leaks in these transmissions is the output shaft seal.

[MaxClass]

GL-5 isn't good for our transmissions, you need to get GL-4!!

Up side: He is right on this account. I know I mentioned it elsewhere but I'll say it again. GL-5 has a high sulfur content that gives it a much higher pressure limit. In other words it can handle higher pressure between the gear teeth.

Down side: Sulfur deteriorates [eats] brass and that's what the syncros are made of. Ultimately it will eat your syncros.

Bottom line: ONLY US GL-4 in our transmissions. Check out RedLine lubricants like their MTL [Manual Transmission Lubricant]. It not the only one available but comes highly recommended by many users.

Also, the gears in our transmissions are constant mesh so the teeth for all gears are always meshed together. The syncros are there to lock the output gears to the output shaft. Only one gear is locked to the output shaft at any one time. [Hope I got that right.] If you hear any grinding it is actually the syncro teeth that are grinding, not the gears.

MaxNote: Slippery is not always what you want in a transmission lubricant. If it is to slippery your syncros slip instead of grabbing and matching things up. MTL is formulated to provide the right combination of both.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

yeah the slider teeth are grinding against the "dog teeth" on the gear, ruining both parts.

[Boostaddict]

Up side: He is right on this account. I know I mentioned it elsewhere but I'll say it again. GL-5 has a high sulfur content that gives it a much higher pressure limit. In other words it can handle higher pressure between the gear teeth.

Down side: Sulfur deteriorates [eats] brass and that's what the syncros are made of. Ultimately it will eat your syncros.

Bottom line: ONLY US GL-4 in our transmissions. Check out RedLine lubricants like their MTL [Manual Transmission Lubricant]. It not the only one available but comes highly recommended by many users.

Also, the gears in our transmissions are constant mesh so the teeth for all gears are always meshed together. The syncros are there to lock the output gears to the output shaft. Only one gear is locked to the output shaft at any one time. [Hope I got that right.] If you hear any grinding it is actually the syncro teeth that are grinding, not the gears.

MaxNote: Slippery is not always what you want in a transmission lubricant. If it is to slippery your syncros slip instead of grabbing and matching things up. MTL is formulated to provide the right combination of both.

FYI, not all GL5 fluids are created equal. Some of the more highly engineered gl5 synthetic fluids have very low sulfur compound content and have no problems with copper-based corrosion.