View Full Version : arc2 and e85
keo92stealth
12-17-2011, 02:23 PM
is anybody here on this forum running a similar setup. e85 and a arc2? im gonna be running this. any arc2 tuning experts out there besides matt? we will not help unless its a dr arc2. any help would greatly be appreciated! any im willing to pay!
TurboSinceBirth
12-17-2011, 02:25 PM
There's no reason you can't run E85 on an ARC-2. You're just limited to a 720cc injector size on the ARC-2 so that would equate to roughly 1000cc injectors on ethanol. If you tried to run it on regular gas there's no way it would work but in theory on ethanol it should. How much power are you looking to make?
keo92stealth
12-17-2011, 03:58 PM
There's no reason you can't run E85 on an ARC-2. You're just limited to a 720cc injector size on the ARC-2 so that would equate to roughly 1000cc injectors on ethanol. If you tried to run it on regular gas there's no way it would work but in theory on ethanol it should. How much power are you looking to make?
hello, as for power, I dont know man. I dont even really know what the setup is capable of. as for fuel its a dual pump/ dual feed and high flow fuel rails, and 950cc injectors.
mb3000
12-17-2011, 11:24 PM
You should be fine with that setup. However, if you run into problems you can simply wire in a SAFC before the arc2 and make a mainscale adjustment to compensate.
keo92stealth
12-18-2011, 05:32 PM
You should be fine with that setup. However, if you run into problems you can simply wire in a SAFC before the arc2 and make a mainscale adjustment to compensate.
i hope I dont run into any problems. I talked to steve at pampena motorsports and he runs 1000cc e85 and a just a SAFC, but we shall see very soon. do any of you guys know where I should start tuning wise? I know the arc2 is easy to tune. I appreciate you guys comments and help. thanks
TurboSinceBirth
12-18-2011, 06:37 PM
i hope I dont run into any problems. I talked to steve at pampena motorsports and he runs 1000cc e85 and a just a SAFC, but we shall see very soon. do any of you guys know where I should start tuning wise? I know the arc2 is easy to tune. I appreciate you guys comments and help. thanks
You shouldn't have any problems since the ARC-2 can adjust up to 720cc injectors. Ethanol uses 30+% more fuel which would make the 1000s act like or under 700cc injectors. The MID knob will always be -7 clicks no matter what. For the rest of the settings I would try +1 LOW, -7 HIGH, and +2 ACCEL. If it's too rich at idle back off the low a click or two. What you want to do when tuning the ARC-2 is let it warm up to operating temperature then make adjustments. Some people constantly adjust it when the engine is cold which makes you chase around the tune forever.
keo92stealth
12-18-2011, 07:20 PM
You shouldn't have any problems since the ARC-2 can adjust up to 720cc injectors. Ethanol uses 30+% more fuel which would make the 1000s act like or under 700cc injectors. The MID knob will always be -7 clicks no matter what. For the rest of the settings I would try +1 LOW, -7 HIGH, and +2 ACCEL. If it's too rich at idle back off the low a click or two. What you want to do when tuning the ARC-2 is let it warm up to operating temperature then make adjustments. Some people constantly adjust it when the engine is cold which makes you chase around the tune forever.
ok. i know i cant just leave the arc2 just zeroed out until warm up? it would probably run rich? so before startup, should i just preset the arc2 to those settings or somewhere in that range?
hey, I havent been a member on any 3/s forums long but in the last 2 years i have had my car, ive done alot of searching. Ive seen your username on this site and 3si. Is your setup still the 3.5 and 5857s or Do i have you mixed with someone else? i was gonna run thev 5857s but im only on the built 3l, so i went another route.
TurboSinceBirth
12-18-2011, 07:42 PM
ok. i know i cant just leave the arc2 just zeroed out until warm up? it would probably run rich? so before startup, should i just preset the arc2 to those settings or somewhere in that range?
hey, I havent been a member on any 3/s forums long but in the last 2 years i have had my car, ive done alot of searching. Ive seen your username on this site and 3si. Is your setup still the 3.5 and 5857s or Do i have you mixed with someone else? i was gonna run thev 5857s but im only on the built 3l, so i went another route.
No you don't want to zero out the ARC-2 while it's warming up. What I meant is that you try those preset settings and don't touch them until the car is warmed up. When you turn one knob it will affect the tune on the others so your tune will get way out of whack if you're trying to chase it when the car hasn't come up to operating temperature.
Yes I had that setup. Long story short I ended up abandoning it for multiple reasons. I had Ray do all the lower end work and I sent my block to a local machine shop to get done. It ended up they incorrectly replaced the copper wire for the o-rings which resulted in pushing coolant as soon as the motor fired up. Between another $300 gasket set, $1k longblock, and another $5-6k in paint/bodywork I had left I ended up stopping the project. I was fed up with it and sick to my stomach. Had I driven the car before all this I probably would have stuck with it but I didn't have any fond memories with it. I only lacked putting it back together to run 6-700AWHP and a set of 300M upgraded rear axles to run closer to 1000AWHP.
Since then I parted out the car, bought a 95 TD04 upgraded Stealth, and a few parts cars. I basically only kept the tranny, transfercase, stroker short block, cams, cam gears, billet oil pump gears, T3 manifolds, injectors, engine management, and 3.5" exhaust. I'll be putting the stroker back together since I have another block non o-ringed all ready to go for it just have to assemble everything. I'll be getting a set of DR Stage III heads to put on it. I'll probably sit on the engine for awhile until I decide what to do but I'd like to go back to something similar. For now I have a much simplier setup that I'll be driving until I decide to take on a bigger project. I plan on doing a 5-speed swap with at least a Quaife front diff and hopefully a SCE center diff if I get the funds for it. I plan to explore a flashed ECU as soon as I can get an adapter harness and ECU. I plan to upgrade the turbos after that to maybe DR-750s, upgrade the whole fuel system, and then if that isn't enough I'll drop the stroker in with some T3 turbos. At least this way I'll get some enjoyment out of the car before I do another large project. Come June I might even have my own garage to work on it instead of outside sometimes not even on concrete so that'll help.
keo92stealth
12-18-2011, 07:58 PM
No you don't want to zero out the ARC-2 while it's warming up. What I meant is that you try those preset settings and don't touch them until the car is warmed up. When you turn one knob it will affect the tune on the others so your tune will get way out of whack if you're trying to chase it when the car hasn't come up to operating temperature.
Yes I had that setup. Long story short I ended up abandoning it for multiple reasons. I had Ray do all the lower end work and I sent my block to a local machine shop to get done. It ended up they incorrectly replaced the copper wire for the o-rings which resulted in pushing coolant as soon as the motor fired up. Between another $300 gasket set, $1k longblock, and another $5-6k in paint/bodywork I had left I ended up stopping the project. I was fed up with it and sick to my stomach. Had I driven the car before all this I probably would have stuck with it but I didn't have any fond memories with it. I only lacked putting it back together to run 6-700AWHP and a set of 300M upgraded rear axles to run closer to 1000AWHP.
Since then I parted out the car, bought a 95 TD04 upgraded Stealth, and a few parts cars. I basically only kept the tranny, transfercase, stroker short block, cams, cam gears, billet oil pump gears, T3 manifolds, injectors, engine management, and 3.5" exhaust. I'll be putting the stroker back together since I have another block non o-ringed all ready to go for it just have to assemble everything. I'll be getting a set of DR Stage III heads to put on it. I'll probably sit on the engine for awhile until I decide what to do but I'd like to go back to something similar. For now I have a much simplier setup that I'll be driving until I decide to take on a bigger project. I plan on doing a 5-speed swap with at least a Quaife front diff and hopefully a SCE center diff if I get the funds for it. I plan to explore a flashed ECU as soon as I can get an adapter harness and ECU. I plan to upgrade the turbos after that to maybe DR-750s, upgrade the whole fuel system, and then if that isn't enough I'll drop the stroker in with some T3 turbos. At least this way I'll get some enjoyment out of the car before I do another large project. Come June I might even have my own garage to work on it instead of outside sometimes not even on concrete so that'll help.
i just hate it when someone elses mistakes fucks up someones elses shit. that setup would have hurt some feelings lol. well you still pretty much got everything to do what you really want. If I didnt buy all the shit that I did, I think i probably would have went dr750 as well. I think alot of people would have went the dr750 route if they didnt spend all the cash they did on the setup they run know. Im looking to got stroker probably so time next year if all goes well. I have a 92 so I dont have the 4 bolt block so I might be thinking the 74 route. idk just yet. that type of displacement should be fun as fuck with some large snails. so whats the setup you rockin now with the 95 tt?
TurboSinceBirth
12-18-2011, 09:41 PM
i just hate it when someone elses mistakes fucks up someones elses shit. that setup would have hurt some feelings lol. well you still pretty much got everything to do what you really want engine wise. If I didnt buy all the shit that I did, I think i probably would have went dr750 as well. I think alot of people would have went the dr750 route if they didnt spend all the cash they did on the setup they run know. Im looking to got stroker probably so time next year if all goes well. I have a 92 so I dont have the 4 bolt block so I might be thinking the 74 route. idk just yet. that type of displacement should be fun as fuck with some large snails. so whats the setup you rockin now with the 95 tt? and Also, I see you have alot of stuff for sale lol? damn dude, how many setups have you tried and been through lol?
I would go with a 6G74 over the stroker for the cheaper cost. Pampena Motorsports 6G74 3.5 Liter to 3.8 Liter Stroker - Engine - Pampena Motorsports (http://store.pampenamotorsports.com/engine/pampena-motorsports-6g74-3-5-liter-to-3-8-liter-stroke.html#) You end up modifying some of the exhaust and a few other things so that everything will bolt up but as long as you have all the components you need it works great. The way I see it if you want 600AWHP or less keep the stock 3.0L. If you want more go ahead and upgrade to a 3.5L because you probably want quite a bit more than 600AWHP lol.
Right now the Stealth is running a set of GT-368 turbos. It should be about 400AWHP. It feels slow but I haven't really driven the car since I'm waiting for money to tag and insure it. I hadn't planned on spending another $8k on parts cars so it has sat since then. I saved a few goodies I wanted but all the rest of the parts I'm selling. It's one way to fund the obsession and makes the girlfriend a little happier. :) I've had 13Ts and E16Gs before I bought a DR-900 kit which turned into twin 5857s after I went the stroker route. I get very bored when something remains the same, I change my mind all the time, and I'm always looking for the next challenge. Once I know how something works I lose some interest because there's nothing new about it anymore. I always have to tinker on something. I guess I could keep one setup on the Stealth and part out cars to get my fix, but I always like making improvements until I have a solid car. If I weren't going to keep the Stealth I would buy a Spyder in a heartbeat. I know of a cheap one that just needs a motor/drivetrain transplant which would be awesome, but I have no use for driving multiple 3S's plus I've grown to love the clean lines of a 2nd gen Stealth over other models.
keo92stealth
12-18-2011, 09:48 PM
I would go with a 6G74 over the stroker for the cheaper cost. Pampena Motorsports 6G74 3.5 Liter to 3.8 Liter Stroker - Engine - Pampena Motorsports (http://store.pampenamotorsports.com/engine/pampena-motorsports-6g74-3-5-liter-to-3-8-liter-stroke.html#) You end up modifying some of the exhaust and a few other things so that everything will bolt up but as long as you have all the components you need it works great. The way I see it if you want 600AWHP or less keep the stock 3.0L. If you want more go ahead and upgrade to a 3.5L because you probably want quite a bit more than 600AWHP lol.
Right now the Stealth is running a set of GT-368 turbos. It should be about 400AWHP. It feels slow but I haven't reallOpy driven the car since I'm waiting for money to tag and insure it. I hadn't planned on spending another $8k on parts cars so it has sat since then. I saved a few goodies I wanted but all the rest of the parts I'm selling. It's one way to fund the obsession and makes the girlfriend a little happier. :) I've had 13Ts and E16Gs before I bought a DR-900 kit which turned into twin 5857s after I went the stroker route. I get very bored when something remains the same, I change my mind all the time, and I'm always looking for the next challenge. Once I know how something works I lose some interest because there's nothing new about it anymore. I always have to tinker on something. I guess I could keep one setup on the Stealth and part out cars to get my fix, but I always like making improvements until I have a solid car. If I weren't going to keep the Stealth I would buy a Spyder in a heartbeat. I know of a cheap one that just needs a motor/drivetrain transplant which would be awesome, but I have no use for driving multiple 3S's plus I've grown to love the clean lines of a 2nd gen Stealth over other models.
yea, i seen that engine on site the last time i looked at it. pretty good price as well. i think ray only wants like 3700 for the complete block assembled and probably a core on the side. thats cheap as dirt. thanks for help on the arc2 and i will post on this topic again soon as my car is being revived from bent valves lol. thanks bro. names keo by the way.
720CCs X 1.3 =936CCs... But you will probably still be ok with the ARC2
keo92stealth
12-19-2011, 03:54 PM
720CCs X 1.3 =936CCs... But you will probably still be ok with the ARC2
where is the 1.3 coming from. which formula? ive seen alot of different formulas.
Most people say E85 takes 30% more fuel, but there is differing amounts of ethanol in E85, so that can change from month to month/ state to state.
keo92stealth
12-20-2011, 11:05 AM
Most people say E85 takes 30% more fuel, but there is differing amounts of ethanol in E85, so that can change from month to month/ state to state.
true 30-40% more fuel.
keo92stealth
12-20-2011, 11:06 AM
You shouldn't have any problems since the ARC-2 can adjust up to 720cc injectors. Ethanol uses 30+% more fuel which would make the 1000s act like or under 700cc injectors. The MID knob will always be -7 clicks no matter what. For the rest of the settings I would try +1 LOW, -7 HIGH, and +2 ACCEL. If it's too rich at idle back off the low a click or two. What you want to do when tuning the ARC-2 is let it warm up to operating temperature then make adjustments. Some people constantly adjust it when the engine is cold which makes you chase around the tune forever.
what does the high knob do? i think the low and acc control idle? not sure?
TurboSinceBirth
12-20-2011, 02:00 PM
what does the high knob do? i think the low and acc control idle? not sure?
It's basically the mainscale adjustment knob. It'll shift the fueling to the left or right by a percentage. You use it to adjust for WOT also. Low mostly affects idle. Accel is usually adjusted if you can't rev the car very freely or it stumbles when going into WOT.
keo92stealth
12-22-2011, 09:24 AM
It's basically the mainscale adjustment knob. It'll shift the fueling to the left or right by a percentage. You use it to adjust for WOT also. Low mostly affects idle. Accel is usually adjusted if you can't rev the car very freely or it stumbles when going into WOT.
alright. thanks for the info. i will update this thread ince my car is in running condition!
keo92stealth
01-11-2012, 09:49 PM
hey guys, is it possible to run the arc2 in a blow thru configuration? if so, through me some pointers.
mb3000
01-11-2012, 10:42 PM
Grab an arc2, but don't use the maf. Buy the typical 3" GM maf that everyone uses & use this to connect:
SCT 2901 Big Air MAF Adapter Cable (89-95 Mustang) 2901 - Free Shipping! (http://www.americanmuscle.com/sct-2901-maf-adaptercable.html)
keo92stealth
01-11-2012, 10:51 PM
Grab an arc2, but don't use the maf. Buy the typical 3" GM maf that everyone uses & use this to connect:
SCT 2901 Big Air MAF Adapter Cable (89-95 Mustang) 2901 - Free Shipping! (http://www.americanmuscle.com/sct-2901-maf-adaptercable.html)
thank you sir. looks like i would have to wire that in myself, and my strong point isnt electronics lol.
J. Fast
01-12-2012, 12:50 AM
Sooo, has anyone ran an ARC-2 on E-85 and made gobs of power... say 500+ to the wheel?
Could the ARC-2 MAF be used for blow-through? I thought Matt's race car was set up with ARC-2 in blow-through...
keo92stealth
01-12-2012, 08:51 AM
Could the ARC-2 MAF be used for blow-through? I thought Matt's race car was set up with ARC-2 in blow-through...
i could have sworn the same thing. but i dont know how he set his up. maybe i should search more lol.
keo92stealth
01-12-2012, 09:45 AM
Sooo, has anyone ran an ARC-2 on E-85 and made gobs of power... say 500+ to the wheel?
soon enough i hope:)
mb3000
01-12-2012, 04:15 PM
I'm sure you can, but you have to have the metal housing. Also, the shape makes it undesirable for intercooler connections.
keo92stealth
01-12-2012, 08:16 PM
today, i had a guy tell me that i cant use methonal with just any injector because of the rubber??? then what the hell type do I use if that is true?
keo92stealth
03-26-2012, 09:07 PM
ok. now when you guys say on click, is one click a dot on the arc2 or is one click just one click?
TurboSinceBirth
03-26-2012, 09:14 PM
ok. now when you guys say on click, is one click a dot on the arc2 or is one click just one click?
One click is one click. Each dot is two clicks.
keo92stealth
03-27-2012, 10:01 AM
alright sounds good. hopefully she will be ready by friday. man, im so freaking excited lol. no hopefully i can get it to run correctly. ill try them settings you gave me awhile back. +1 -7 -7 +2. now, if its to rich at idle, i back of on the low and but it and 0 or go into negatives? i now the mid stays -7 no matter what. now when the car is warm, and i give it gas and she stumbles, back off on the high and accel? or only 1 knob at a time?
TurboSinceBirth
03-27-2012, 02:37 PM
alright sounds good. hopefully she will be ready by friday. man, im so freaking excited lol. no hopefully i can get it to run correctly. ill try them settings you gave me awhile back. +1 -7 -7 +2. now, if its to rich at idle, i back of on the low and but it and 0 or go into negatives? i now the mid stays -7 no matter what. now when the car is warm, and i give it gas and she stumbles, back off on the high and accel? or only 1 knob at a time?
The ACCEL is mainly used for idle. LOW does affect it but it's only for cruising and small throttle inputs. If you're running too rich cruising and have to make a big adjustment you will have to readjust the ACCEL. Most cars are usually happy around +1 to +3 on the ACCEL. For some reason my car is higher than that. If I go any lower it will stall out. I think it's contributed to some vacuum and or boost leaks I need to check for since my boost controller is overboosting plus the hotwired Aeromotive Stealth pump I'm sure is overrunning my stock fpr.
If it's rich at idle increase it one click on the ACCEL and vise versa for if it's lean. You don't want to mess with it too much when the car is warming up because it will have to be changed again once it's warm. Just change the settings enough that the car will idle without stalling and an AFR that isn't rich say 10-11:1. You will get fuel in your oil and will need to change it asap if it idles rich. Once you have the idle at warm dialed in close to 14.7:1 you then want to focus on cruising. Go tool around in 2nd or 3rd around 2k-2500 rpms and adjust the AFR to achieve close to 14.7:1. You can adjust this later but get it close for now. From there you then want to datalog and make some WOT runs from 2500-redline. If it starts running too lean or you get knock let off the throttle immediately. Check to see why the engine knocked. If it was too lean add one click to the HIGH knob. If it was too rich pegged at 10:1 AFR subract one click. Rinse and repeat until you get a 11.5:1 AFR WOT or a little richer if you'd like some more safety margin. I would not recommend trying to soley tune it by watching your AFR while going WOT because the wideband might not be responding fast enough or you just can't get a good enough reading plus it's dangerous not focusing on the road. Review your logs and it will be much more helpful. You're better off adjusting one knob at a time focusing on idle, cruise, and then WOT in that order. Doing everything at once will leave you chasing your tail the whole time. The above AFRs are for pump not E85 FYI.
keo92stealth
03-27-2012, 08:39 PM
The ACCEL is mainly used for idle. LOW does affect it but it's only for cruising and small throttle inputs. If you're running too rich cruising and have to make a big adjustment you will have to readjust the ACCEL. Most cars are usually happy around +1 to +3 on the ACCEL. For some reason my car is higher than that. If I go any lower it will stall out. I think it's contributed to some vacuum and or boost leaks I need to check for since my boost controller is overboosting plus the hotwired Aeromotive Stealth pump I'm sure is overrunning my stock fpr.
If it's rich at idle increase it one click on the ACCEL and vise versa for if it's lean. You don't want to mess with it too much when the car is warming up because it will have to be changed again once it's warm. Just change the settings enough that the car will idle without stalling and an AFR that isn't rich say 10-11:1. You will get fuel in your oil and will need to change it asap if it idles rich. Once you have the idle at warm dialed in close to 14.7:1 you then want to focus on cruising. Go tool around in 2nd or 3rd around 2k-2500 rpms and adjust the AFR to achieve close to 14.7:1. You can adjust this later but get it close for now. From there you then want to datalog and make some WOT runs from 2500-redline. If it starts running too lean or you get knock let off the throttle immediately. Check to see why the engine knocked. If it was too lean add one click to the HIGH knob. If it was too rich pegged at 10:1 AFR subract one click. Rinse and repeat until you get a 11.5:1 AFR WOT or a little richer if you'd like some more safety margin. I would not recommend trying to soley tune it by watching your AFR while going WOT because the wideband might not be responding fast enough or you just can't get a good enough reading plus it's dangerous not focusing on the road. Review your logs and it will be much more helpful. You're better off adjusting one knob at a time focusing on idle, cruise, and then WOT in that order. Doing everything at once will leave you chasing your tail the whole time. The above AFRs are for pump not E85 FYI.
ok so in other words, the low and accel is for idle and just your basic driving, mid is always -7 and the high is for wot? so if you have to adjust the accel then you have to adjust the low? sorry for the noob questions!
mb3000
03-27-2012, 09:25 PM
Basically put Accel on zero and tune your low, if you can't get it where you want it with the low only than set the low knob a little lean of what you want and add accel.
keo92stealth
03-27-2012, 09:39 PM
Basically put Accel on zero and tune your low, if you can't get it where you want it with the low only than set the low knob a little lean of what you want and add accel.
ok another noob question. lean is the negative side correct?
mb3000
03-27-2012, 09:41 PM
Right is rich, left is lean.
TurboSinceBirth
03-27-2012, 11:12 PM
If you get your base settings close you usually won't have to go back and retune the ACCEL after you mess with the LOW. I'm talking about a huge change like 4 or 5 clicks. That will cause you to have to retune some of the other settings if it's that far off. Think of ACCEL as the idle enrichment. Turning clockwise richens on any of the knobs and turning counter-clockwise leans out. It's more than just right being 0 to +20% and left being 0 to -20% fuel correction. You don't have to be on the negative side to run lean. Say you're at +6 on HIGH for example's sake. +3 may make you super lean WOT such as at 12.5:1 AFR which is no good for WOT. So for the sake of simple argument just remember to turn it right to richen and turn it left to lean out. Let us know how it goes and if you can't get the car to run right. It's very simple to setup. Make sure that you solder the yellow wire coming out of the ARC-2 box to the red wire. They both go to +12V switched power!!! Very important or else you won't get the tune right ever. :)
keo92stealth
03-27-2012, 11:23 PM
ok got you i think:p. yea, i had splitsecond bench test the unit a while back and they tested it as the r5 version so when i did install it , i did put both those wires red and yellow to 12v power. the only one i didnt do as the instructions said was the black wire and that was a ground for the tps? my engine harness might have been chopped our something beacause after following that pin after about 8 inches, the wire was cut:eek4: so i just put the ground to the chassis. i hope i have no issues with that situation. unless that ground absolutely has to be wired into that pin or whatever.
oh yea, and the maf is in blowthru:) thanks to turbosincebirth.
ok so again, start at +1 -7 -7 +2? mid stays the same so if the idle is to rich or lean, increase or decrease the accel or low? and if its to lean or rich at wot, increase or decrease the high?
TurboSinceBirth
03-27-2012, 11:33 PM
ok got you i think:p. yea, i had splitsecond bench test the unit a while back and they tested it as the r5 version so when i did install it , i did put both those wires red and yellow to 12v power. the only one i didnt do as the instructions said was the black wire and that was a ground for the tps? my engine harness might have been chopped our something beacause after following that pin after about 8 inches, the wire was cut:eek4: so i just put the ground to the chassis. i hope i have no issues with that situation. unless that ground absolutely has to be wired into that pin or whatever.
oh yea, and the maf is in blowthru:) thanks to turbosincebirth.
ok so again, start at +1 -7 -7 +2? mid stays the same so if the idle is to rich or lean, increase or decrease the accel or low? and if its to lean or rich at wot, increase or decrease the high?
I have mine hooked up to the ECU ground. I wouldn't trust it hooked up to the TPS or any other sensors in the engine bay due to all the issues you can have with brittle old wiring like you said. I always run MAP and IAT sensor wiring all the way back to the computer. The ground you're talking about is pin #72 ECU ground for the TPS, 02, IAT, etc sensors not pin #71 chassis ground. That's for a 1st gen.
mb3000
03-27-2012, 11:41 PM
First, read this.
Stealth 316 - ARC2 Tuning tips (http://www.stealth316.com/2-arc2tuning.htm)
keo92stealth
03-27-2012, 11:42 PM
I have mine hooked up to the ECU ground. I wouldn't trust it hooked up to the TPS or any other sensors in the engine bay due to all the issues you can have with brittle old wiring like you said. I always run MAP and IAT sensor wiring all the way back to the computer. The ground you're talking about is pin #72 ECU ground for the TPS, 02, IAT, etc sensors not pin #71 chassis ground. That's for a 1st gen.
yes, that is the correct pin. i just couldnt place it. well thanks for all the help. hopefully, i can try to start her up by friday and get her back on the road. ill definately keep this updated. and ill start off with them settings and go from there. thanks.
keo92stealth
03-27-2012, 11:44 PM
First, read this.
Stealth 316 - ARC2 Tuning tips (http://www.stealth316.com/2-arc2tuning.htm)
thanks, that should help of course.
keo92stealth
04-09-2012, 04:27 PM
sup guys, fired her up today. arm1 didnt cycle but it wasnt dumping fuel. i shut it down due the the arm1 not cycling telling me whats going on. any suggestions? maybe its wired wrong or bad o2 sensor in the rear? it was black due to it running rich when the car ran. we just burned the carbon.off. should i replace the sensor or just go wideband? also when i tried patting the gas it straight died. barely touched it. also, remember my car has no iac but it didnt idle all that bad honestly to have 280 cams. loped like hell but not bad.
keo92stealth
04-13-2012, 08:46 PM
ok guys. +1-7-7+2 is way to lean at idle. but if i richen it the rpms go up like mad cow! any suggestions? the arc2 has no problems controling 950cc and e85:biggrin:
mb3000
04-14-2012, 12:02 AM
Have you tried +1-7-7+3
keo92stealth
04-14-2012, 12:24 AM
i was trying all kinds lol just getting a feel for what corrections does what. but i dont think i tried that exact setting. will have to try. i know too much fuel correction, the car just dies out on its own.
TurboSinceBirth
04-14-2012, 12:35 AM
Did you make sure there weren't any boost or vacuum leaks? I know when I had some bad ones I had to set the ACCEL to +8 or 9 just to get it to idle correctly according to my wideband when it was all warmed up but I know those settings were way off compared to what it should have been. Most people run +1 to +3 on ACCEL.
When you richen up the idle the rpms will raise but that is normal on a cold start. It'll probably idle around 1500 rpms until it warms up. You can richen up the idle while it's cold to make it run just don't go ridiculously rich or else you'll be changing your oil asap. Once it gets warmed up you can lean or richen it to a stoich AFR. From there you can tune the other areas but just focus on idle for now.
keo92stealth
04-14-2012, 10:20 AM
yea i had a big intake leak that kept the car from even idling at first. the surge tank on my plenum is huge and it hit the top of my wastegate so it kept the plenum from sealing completely. fixed that, and she started right up and held idle. was just lean st those settings. i tried one setting when she was warmed up but she idled at 1500 or a little more. was touching mid to high13's and 14's but then when i shut here off and tried to start her back up, she would start, so i changed the settings. but know i feel stupid because the reason she would start for me was because she was out of gas lol lol. i forgot that we drained the tank completely and i only but about 4 gallons of that stinky shit in the tank lol. i guess the pumps can only suck fuel from so far down in the tank. so ill check for leaks and other things.
this might be a stupid question but how to you check for leaks when there is no intake pipes? i had made a intake pressure tester but it looks like it will only work for draw thru setups.
thanks guys very much for helping me out. it would be so much easier tuning the arc if it only had one adjustment for idle lol. but i think im getting the hang of it though. i was just messing with it to see what does what and trying to get a feel for it.
TurboSinceBirth
04-14-2012, 06:23 PM
yea i had a big intake leak that kept the car from even idling at first. the surge tank on my plenum is huge and it hit the top of my wastegate so it kept the plenum from sealing completely. fixed that, and she started right up and held idle. was just lean st those settings. i tried one setting when she was warmed up but she idled at 1500 or a little more. was touching mid to high13's and 14's but then when i shut here off and tried to start her back up, she would start, so i changed the settings. but know i feel stupid because the reason she would start for me was because she was out of gas lol lol. i forgot that we drained the tank completely and i only but about 4 gallons of that stinky shit in the tank lol. i guess the pumps can only suck fuel from so far down in the tank. so ill check for leaks and other things.
this might be a stupid question but how to you check for leaks when there is no intake pipes? i had made a intake pressure tester but it looks like it will only work for draw thru setups.
thanks guys very much for helping me out. it would be so much easier tuning the arc if it only had one adjustment for idle lol. but i think im getting the hang of it though. i was just messing with it to see what does what and trying to get a feel for it.
On my T3 setup I had twin intakes but to pressure test I put a cap on the rear turbo and a pressure tester on the front turbo then pressurized the system. It does the same thing as if you only had pre-turbo pipes and the stock bubble. I'd just do that put a cap on one turbo and connect a pressure tester to the other turbo inlet. You can make a 3" PVC pressure tester simple enough.
keo92stealth
04-22-2012, 05:08 PM
ok. i picked up at aem wideband. it reads regular gas afr. so i know i want 14.7 or somewhere close at idle. they say 12s wide open on e85. but what afr is too rich? anything past 12s like 11s and 10s?
TurboSinceBirth
04-22-2012, 05:25 PM
ok. i picked up at aem wideband. it reads regular gas afr. so i know i want 14.7 or somewhere close at idle. they say 12s wide open on e85. but what afr is too rich? anything past 12s like 11s and 10s?
Lower than 12:1 will probably be too rich. What ends up happening is the spark plugs misfire when the AFR is in the 11s and you lose power. People report good power at low 12s and I've seen quite a few at upper 12s get the best power, but I would not risk that lean until you're on a dyno to monitor your torque curves. You could be running too lean, making great power, and the car could knock while the sensor isn't picking it up resulting in a blown motor. I think Chris made the best power at 12.2:1 or 12.3:1. It was real close to that iirc.
keo92stealth
04-22-2012, 05:30 PM
yea, id rather be safe than sorry lol. so ill keep it in the mid 12s until i get it on a dyno as you stated.
keo92stealth
04-27-2012, 12:40 AM
guys, is it normal on decel for the wideband not to give a reading?
i3igpete
04-27-2012, 01:36 AM
yup, usually injectors shut off completely. otherwise you wouldn't be able to engine brake.
keo92stealth
04-27-2012, 01:53 AM
ok. lol i was thinking i was gonna blow shit up lol. thanks
keo92stealth
04-29-2012, 10:25 PM
why wont the tune stay put? its always something different at idle. and it idles damn high?
mb3000
04-29-2012, 10:31 PM
Only tune at full operating temp.
keo92stealth
04-30-2012, 11:01 AM
Only tune at full operating temp.
i understand that. so do i just let her warm up lean? or rich? whatever its set at? next time im not touching shit until its warm. but i dont want to damage shit either.
mb3000
04-30-2012, 04:19 PM
Yes, basically let it do whatever it wants on a cold start (most likely rich). When it's up to temp tune from there.
TurboSinceBirth
04-30-2012, 10:07 PM
Check to make sure you don't have any boost or vacuum leaks either because that makes a difference too. Pressure test it to whatever psi you run.
keo92stealth
05-28-2012, 11:11 PM
ok. so when cruising around town, the afr im looking for is what 14.7. now i know you only adjust the high for cruising according to stealth316, but if i take fuel out, isnt that gonna mess with wot afr's? if i make it leaner for cruising or no?
mb3000
05-29-2012, 01:02 AM
14.7 is what you want when cruising. And you would adjust the low/accel knobs to tune in your cruise.
keo92stealth
05-29-2012, 04:56 PM
mb3000, and that wont affect the idle? or whenever u come back to idle?
mb3000
05-29-2012, 11:04 PM
It will. All of the knobs on the ARC2 overlap each-other. Each knob setting blends into the next. You need to find a good balance between idle afr's and cruise afr's.
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