View Full Version : Just hit 90K... Changing brake pads tomorrow
JoshAnker
09-17-2010, 10:54 PM
anything special I need to know?
My stepdad has done plenty, but I wasn't sure if there were any surprises in store :)
I looked on the 3swiki, but no one has written up a brake pad change walkthrough/FAQ... Probably because it's too basic, but then again, I'm a wrench noob :)
Also, how do I set my signature here? I found avatar, in the CP, but not sig. I guess I could pull a zent and insert it manually every time... ;)
Edit: Dammit, i need to take the 3si logo out of it.... And put in a pic of my new motorcycle, too, I guess.
http://josh.josh.name/joshsigfinal.jpg
Steve '92ES
09-17-2010, 10:59 PM
FWD or AWD?
JoshAnker
09-17-2010, 11:01 PM
FWD, but I'll be changing front and rears, I think. I've had the car since 34K miles, and never done brake pads (I forget if the fluid was done at 60K, but I'm going to do it anyway). For all I know, the car is on it's original set.
Chris GTO TT
09-17-2010, 11:01 PM
HOLY SHIT its Josh.
JoshAnker
09-17-2010, 11:06 PM
Nice edit, but I saw the original post ;) It's a 95 SOHC... My third 3/S, but I have yet to own a turbo. From a DOHC MTX to a DOHC ATX, to my 95 SOHC MTX now :) The first one was the fastest, the second one was the nicest, but the current one is the one that runs ;)
Valorian
09-17-2010, 11:12 PM
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Maint/All/BPad/
I've been reading on this myself, hope it helps
JoshAnker
09-17-2010, 11:19 PM
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Maint/All/BPad/
I've been reading on this myself, hope it helps
That's a damn good how-to, with pictures to boot. thanks! :)
Steve '92ES
09-17-2010, 11:27 PM
They're pretty straight forward, your stepdad should be able to get you through it.
A couple of tips:
When you re-install the anti-rattle springs, the curved silver parts that the pads sit on (you'll see when you get in there) put a drop of brake pad stick-em (anti-squeal compound) under the part the pad slides on. Once they've been messed with they tend to squeal at low speeds. Took me forever to find it after my first go at it, now the stick-em is part of the routine....
Surprisingly the caliper pins are readily available at most part stores if you need them. If your's are rusted or pitted don't panic just get new ones.
Speaking of replacing, if you're just putting in OEM style pads price out "Drop In" kits. Re-built calipers with pads and new hardware, ready to go. Sometimes they're not that much more than the pads alone.
Spend the time to pull the rear rotor/drums off and give a little love to the E-brake. Chances are it's pretty rusty in there. If it's real bad don't mess with them, just order up new shoes and springs (dealer only..) and come back to it.
Wear grubby clothes. Brake jobs are messy...
Have Fun!
Steve '92ES
09-17-2010, 11:32 PM
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/...aint/All/BPad/
That IS a nice write-up....For AWD cars.
You're going to be a bit befuddled following that with your FWD though... ;)
(The calipers are completely different)
Valorian
09-18-2010, 12:04 AM
That IS a nice write-up....For AWD cars.
You're going to be a bit befuddled following that with your FWD though... ;)
(The calipers are completely different)
Boo! lol I tried
blindmist
09-18-2010, 12:40 AM
Its so simple I can do it in my sleep. 10x easy on FWD. Just make sure you compress the caliper before you pull it off the rotor. I like to use a flat head in the heat veins of the rotor and pry against the caliper nice and slow to not mess with the ABS.
stealthee
09-18-2010, 02:10 AM
Josh, brake pads on a NA are cake. There are two caliper bolts with 17mm heads for the front brakes. Remove those bolts, then place a flathead screwdriver in the rotor vane and wiggle back and forth to loosen the caliper piston. Slide the caliper up and off and place the new pads in place. Using a C clamp or the like compress the pistons the rest of the way in. Slide the caliper back on and tighten it down.
For the rears you just remove the one bolt. IIRC its 12mm. Once removed, wiggle the flathhead between the vanes again to loosen it. Now pivot the caliper out of the way and remove the pads. Again, using a C clamp or the like compress the piston the rest of the way in. Place the new pads in place. Pivot the caliper back into place and tighten the bolt down.
Thats the most basic simplistic instructions I can give you.
JoshAnker
09-18-2010, 08:33 PM
It went well :) Thanks to those tho replied!
Chris GTO TT
09-19-2010, 03:26 PM
Glad to hear it went well, brakes aren't hard at all just have to take your time.
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