Fabrication Parts

[markoverclock]

What new parts should be made available for our cars? Im trying to start my custom fab shop, well officially lol. Ive been making stuff for years. But i want to start to make stuff for our cars. I was thinking cromoly roll cage, cromoly subframe, comoly lower control arms.

But before anyone says yes all the above, Lets see what you would commit to buy, Majority vote wins the first round of builds. As always i will stand behind everything i build.

I will update the first page with people when everything is nailed down for now we will just use it for reference.


Cromoly Roll Cage
FeaRpb
markoverclock
roll cage

Cromoly Lower control arms
rawavr4
slage
Mr2
mehrshadvr4


Cromoly Subframes
FeaRpb
vantage
tteric
mehrshadvr4


Possible double wishbone suspension
Jfast
mehrshadvr4

Solid rear subframe bushings
rawavr4
FeaRpb
Turbosincebirth
a2j
Ja3gt
cntrlswitch

Fuel pump Assy (1-3 pumps)
Markoverclock
Mr2

Single Turbo kit
Markoverclock
JasonY (?)

[FeaRpb]

I would be into the subframes depending on how much lighter they are than stock.

As for the roll cage, I will definitely buy one.

[92pearltt]

Chromoly cage and subframes are going to be pretty expensive. I Would rather just see them made of mild.

[FeaRpb]

I would also love to see solid subframe bushings

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[Vantage]

Subscribed...I'm certainly interested in the subframe but thats a project for later down the road..

[J. Fast]

I like the idea of the subframe and would possibly be interested depending on cost vs. weight.

What I've been saving for for awhile now is a modified hub and control arm assembly which converts the suspension to a double wishbone. Yes its exotic but it's the real deal. A true performance upgrade, not just a weight saver. If you could make that happen I think you'd be pleasantly surprised at what might come of the development. With that in mind, the right design it would sell for sure.

I've been going back and forth with my crew for a long time regarding the $ suspension setup. It's actually been discussed over and over and well thought thru. We could have a trigger pulled on it if Erron and I wanted Magnus to cut and fab everything. Unfortunately, for two setups its just not economical so its a bright idea and a pipe dream till we want to spend 3G's.

I would be in for sure if you could come up with something wherin the numbers made it more economical.

I think it'd be safe to speak for Erron also and say he'd be onboard if you could fab something. I'd be more than happy to share the info from H. Landry, J. Lehkuhm, R. Nelson, Erron and I have sifted thru. It's a pipe dream but man it would be cool for sure. As always, it's something others could take further and aid in the development which would make it that much better.

Subframe = in (depending on cost)

Cage, already have that one checked off.

Maybe a double wishbone converson?

Lastly, How about a single turbo kit?

Just stating what's on the brain currently so hope no one minds.

Right on for furthering the platform overclock.

[FeaRpb]

IMO, there are plenty of single turbo kits. It wouldn't be worth the time vs pay off.

[markoverclock]

the single turbo kit i have and would/might change my design from over the trans to in front of trans. But im not to sure on the selling point. i could deff make double wish bone setup but i really need to take a close look at cost on that one.

Just for some kind of reference what type of ball park prices would keep the interest on all the above setups for people.

[rawavr4]

I want tubular control arms and solid rear diff&subframe bushings. Front and rear subframes would be great too. Possibly hot side intercooler pipes that route under the car like the ETS kit. With all the cxracing kits out there, I'm sure there are buyers that wouldnt mind that(me). Maybe a custom fit meth tank for the trunk, same size and shape as the trays so it looks completely stock. Just thinking out loud here. I'd def be in for rear diff bushings and front control arms pending though.

[FeaRpb]

Could you ballpark how much the cage would weigh?

Solid rear diff bushings would also be nice along with the subframe bushings.

[markoverclock]

Could you ballpark how much the cage would weigh?

Solid rear diff bushings would also be nice along with the subframe bushings.

Roll Cage 3000GT / Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=24550)

Look at the top one. Im thinking of doing a 6 point cage. ( just used 3sx for weight reference only )

Will look at the solid rear diff bushings seems to be very popular request.

[arm0red1]

OOOOOOOOOOooooooo - ok suspension aside if u offer all the fab components it takes to make a decent single setup (intake mani to drivers side for least heatsoak, drivers side ic single pipes, tubular headers to t4 flange either in front or over trans) but offer them all seperately for purchase- i think that would be quite nice and make purchases reasonable vs waiting to drop 8k on a WHOLE kit- sure its everything you could need, but its also intimidating and cost prohibitive.

1- you mentioned your single turbo setup- I dont believe its manufactured by anyone else anymore- ie you would be the only one producing a kit uniformly vs ppl making their own in there back yard - like me :P- last group I saw carry it was IPS, (last I checked it wasnt on their site anymore, but that was a few months ago just after they teased their quad tip exhaust) but piping price was absurd. If you can make a more budget oriented single setup that isnt made from gold and doesn't run 3000 for JUST piping like ips (non polished pipes, with polishing as an option, normal 304 stainless, regular flanges with vband as an extra option, if i recall, 350z headers line up fairly well, maybe they can be repurposed and slightly modified to further drop costs vs making a header from scratch, ect ect) I know a few that would be interested- if u could find a cost effective way to make the over the trans work (doubt it as the battery relocate is necessary) that would have the most aesthetic appeal with functionality imho- but hey, its preferential over practical at that point

2-for said single setup- intake manifold specifically designed that relocates the throttle body to the drivers side without the inlet being in the way of the master break cyl resevior- on my own single setup im using an intake off the avenger 6g73, it bolts on, but the turbo flange needed to be welded on, and I still need to redo brake lines and move the resevior off the cylinder with a dsm resevior to to get it to clear- having a pre fitting intake setup with better clearance would REAAAAAALLY be nice- or heck, to keep costs down, the avenger one modded with our throttle body flange.

- this offers a setup that supports BIG POWER turbos like PTE6765 CEA, garret gt42, Holset Hx52 PRO ect ect without pulling the motor to install it - a convienient advertising feature- like u need to do in order to install twin td05 flanged setups- and it gives the NA guys another option to jump into the mix vs waiting to collect a turbo guys stuff and convert to twins or drop the money on a twin 16G setup with ebay parts for 2500 with tax/shipping - as most of the single setups i seem to see are actually SL's and the like

[slage]

lower control arms

front & rear crash bars

[futurevr4man]

i didnt read through the other posts but...

a GOOD 6 speed transfercase brace.
stronger gears for the internals of the transfer case that can be relatively affordable.
brake adapters for cheap big brake conversions. could say the same thing for suspensions (to use evo suspensions for instance)
gauge mount for behind the steering wheel that looks good
the gauge bezel with 2 gauges on the side instead of using buttons
1st gen/2nd gen lips

thats all i got for now. some of this stuff has been created before, some of it could be built upon with some ingenuity, and some of it could just be made more affordably. just my .02 :D

[markoverclock]

OOOOOOOOOOooooooo - ok suspension aside if u offer all the fab components it takes to make a decent single setup (intake mani to drivers side for least heatsoak, drivers side ic single pipes, tubular headers to t4 flange either in front or over trans) but offer them all seperately for purchase- i think that would be quite nice and make purchases reasonable vs waiting to drop 8k on a WHOLE kit- sure its everything you could need, but its also intimidating and cost prohibitive.

1- you mentioned your single turbo setup- I dont believe its manufactured by anyone else anymore- ie you would be the only one producing a kit uniformly vs ppl making their own in there back yard - like me :P- last group I saw carry it was IPS, (last I checked it wasnt on their site anymore, but that was a few months ago just after they teased their quad tip exhaust) but piping price was absurd. If you can make a more budget oriented single setup that isnt made from gold and doesn't run 3000 for JUST piping like ips (non polished pipes, with polishing as an option, normal 304 stainless, regular flanges with vband as an extra option, if i recall, 350z headers line up fairly well, maybe they can be repurposed and slightly modified to further drop costs vs making a header from scratch, ect ect) I know a few that would be interested- if u could find a cost effective way to make the over the trans work (doubt it as the battery relocate is necessary) that would have the most aesthetic appeal with functionality imho- but hey, its preferential over practical at that point

2-for said single setup- intake manifold specifically designed that relocates the throttle body to the drivers side without the inlet being in the way of the master break cyl resevior- on my own single setup im using an intake off the avenger 6g73, it bolts on, but the turbo flange needed to be welded on, and I still need to redo brake lines and move the resevior off the cylinder with a dsm resevior to to get it to clear- having a pre fitting intake setup with better clearance would REAAAAAALLY be nice- or heck, to keep costs down, the avenger one modded with our throttle body flange.

- this offers a setup that supports BIG POWER turbos like PTE6765 CEA, garret gt42, Holset Hx52 PRO ect ect without pulling the motor to install it - a convienient advertising feature- like u need to do in order to install twin td05 flanged setups- and it gives the NA guys another option to jump into the mix vs waiting to collect a turbo guys stuff and convert to twins or drop the money on a twin 16G setup with ebay parts for 2500 with tax/shipping - as most of the single setups i seem to see are actually SL's and the like

I dont mind building a single kit but i really dont see a need for it. the kit ( turbo, headers, fmic, hot and cold piping, and driver side intake) would cost about 3-4k. But you still need fuel system and a tuning system. I dont many people spending that kind of money at one time on our cars. If someone would like me to make them one i will.

I really see most people buying smaller things for their car.

[markoverclock]

OOOOOOOOOOooooooo - ok suspension aside if u offer all the fab components it takes to make a decent single setup (intake mani to drivers side for least heatsoak, drivers side ic single pipes, tubular headers to t4 flange either in front or over trans) but offer them all seperately for purchase- i think that would be quite nice and make purchases reasonable vs waiting to drop 8k on a WHOLE kit- sure its everything you could need, but its also intimidating and cost prohibitive.

1- you mentioned your single turbo setup- I dont believe its manufactured by anyone else anymore- ie you would be the only one producing a kit uniformly vs ppl making their own in there back yard - like me :P- last group I saw carry it was IPS, (last I checked it wasnt on their site anymore, but that was a few months ago just after they teased their quad tip exhaust) but piping price was absurd. If you can make a more budget oriented single setup that isnt made from gold and doesn't run 3000 for JUST piping like ips (non polished pipes, with polishing as an option, normal 304 stainless, regular flanges with vband as an extra option, if i recall, 350z headers line up fairly well, maybe they can be repurposed and slightly modified to further drop costs vs making a header from scratch, ect ect) I know a few that would be interested- if u could find a cost effective way to make the over the trans work (doubt it as the battery relocate is necessary) that would have the most aesthetic appeal with functionality imho- but hey, its preferential over practical at that point

2-for said single setup- intake manifold specifically designed that relocates the throttle body to the drivers side without the inlet being in the way of the master break cyl resevior- on my own single setup im using an intake off the avenger 6g73, it bolts on, but the turbo flange needed to be welded on, and I still need to redo brake lines and move the resevior off the cylinder with a dsm resevior to to get it to clear- having a pre fitting intake setup with better clearance would REAAAAAALLY be nice- or heck, to keep costs down, the avenger one modded with our throttle body flange.

- this offers a setup that supports BIG POWER turbos like PTE6765 CEA, garret gt42, Holset Hx52 PRO ect ect without pulling the motor to install it - a convienient advertising feature- like u need to do in order to install twin td05 flanged setups- and it gives the NA guys another option to jump into the mix vs waiting to collect a turbo guys stuff and convert to twins or drop the money on a twin 16G setup with ebay parts for 2500 with tax/shipping - as most of the single setups i seem to see are actually SL's and the like

I dont mind building a single kit but i really dont see a need for it. the kit ( turbo, headers, fmic, hot and cold piping, and driver side intake) would cost about 3-4k. But you still need fuel system and a tuning system. I dont many people spending that kind of money at one time on our cars. If someone would like me to make them one i will.

I really see most people buying smaller things for their car.

[MR2]

ok, if you could make lower control arms I'd be interested, also the brake adapters and possibly dual wishbone suspension...keep in mind the day you make them may not be the day I can afford them.

a nice TD05 kit would be cool..before you go "already done to death"

make something more compact than the current designs, no turbo's sticking up out of no-where, forget equal length tube, just make shortest tube to turbo and include useful long term heatshielding, make it with external waste gates but make them hidden, under the car or atleast under the turbo's.

there are LOTS of TD05 Turbo options out there, just most of the manifold kits are an eye saw and or known to crack, make your kit SOLID (and by having less inch's of pipe the kit should not only run cooler but also be in theory the same weight/lighter.

[anyonebutme]

FYI, strut to SLA conversion Griggs style, note that creativity is needed for coilover install to clear axle and that a yoke mount is a viable option:

http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/9447330/mufp_0710_16_z+classic_ford_mustang_coilover_suspe nsion+griggs_racing_products.jpg

http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/9029075/m5lp_0707_03_z+griggs_racing_s197_ford_mustang_+GR 40_suspension_system.jpg

http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/31253483+w750+st0/mdmp_2011_1968_mustang_002+every_which_way+.jpg

http://www.griggsracing.com/gallery/66/15.jpg

[green-lantern]

People have always wanted a rear subframe but price always seems to be an issue when making them. Only time I've seen one for sale was nelsons and it was very pricey.

[92pearltt]

I would like to go over a custom single turbo manifold set if you would be interested in making it. I need one made but have no one to make it.

[TT Eric]

Can you give us an idea of the price ballpark subframes would be ? It really appealing.

Eric

[markoverclock]

I would like to go over a custom single turbo manifold set if you would be interested in making it. I need one made but have no one to make it.

PM me with your details you want like where you want to possition it. and if do you just want headers?

[markoverclock]

Can you give us an idea of the price ballpark subframes would be ? It really appealing.

Eric

right now this is just an intrest of parts to be made, after we have the input needed we will then go to design and cost. i dont want to give a ball park till i know what and how many people intrested to do a group buy or something similar to where we can get commitments, so that if i have to make them and wait to get my profit out of the final payments thats fine with me. Ill commit to anything to make anything as long as you guys commit to buying it.

I think we can work together and make this platform excel. So if we can do it this way i believe we can keep cost down, Quality high and no chance of scams or bull@#$@. I would like to see our cars beat anything on the streets.

Ray does great work with getting huge HP, Dynamic has done great with getting low times. We still need reasonable costs, Something for track racers, and i beleive even Na parts or covnersion parts for them as well.

[markoverclock]

First Page updated.

[green-lantern]

Honestly I'd be interested in all of it. The price would be the reason if I bought it or not.

[slage]

lower control arms

front & rear crash bars

crash bar bump... would anybody else want one?

[TurboSinceBirth]

I'd go for subframe and rear diff solid bushings for sure. As for the tubular subframes I'd have to wait and see what the prices were. If it was around $2k I'm not sure if or when I would get one. If each was affordable like a set of coilovers it would be easy to get but I have a feeling it'll take more money in labor and materials than that.

You could always fab some adapters for EVO Brembo brakes. I can't think of anything else but I'm sure I'll come up with something.

[rawavr4]

Would a subframe bushing kit include the diff bushings? Or would diff be separate? I ask because I'm mainly interested in the diff but if the price is right I'd get subframe too.

[markoverclock]

All my parts will be affordable.

[MR2]

when you start talking about suspension stuff I get a little worried about strength...I'd need to be convinced that they are very strong :p

[mb7050]

Just a thought

something like this would fit to a mcstrut package 'easier' and a double axis strut system(similar to revo knuckles) would not need any 'body modifications'.

http://www.carenvy.ca/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/revo_knuckle_2.jpg

http://www.fordfocus.hu/albums/album152/RevoKnuckle_pic1.sized.jpg

http://blog.caranddriver.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Ford-RevoKnuckle-and-GM-HiPer-Strut-Explained-Article-placement.jpg

http://subscribers.wardsauto.com/images/2010/03/HiPer-Strut.jpg

http://www.justcar.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/2010_lacrosse_1600_hiperstrut_exploded-thumb-717x477.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/kaneuk123/Picture5.png

http://www.not2fast.com/chassis/revoKnuckle.pdf


double axis strut system/ revo knuckles in action

http://nimg.sulekha.com/sports/original700/sweden-rally-2011-2-12-11-0-29.jpg

http://images.gizmag.com/gallery_lrg/top-10-biggest-wrc-rally-jumps-6.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PigHtBkokwA


I´m fairly certain almost all of the WRC cars have switched to a revo-knuckle style suspension by now, ford and citroën have been using the system for quite some time. (Two of the best in the recent years )

or this type of a double-'A' arm suspension
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRX7z_JbQq1jYkRhX4TQv_N7LDKJbdf3 Se-oJrCj5epngW5JpHmToiTJ2aD
http://image.modified.com/f/17349805/0108scc_fr200focus12_zoom.jpg

[Turbo Beast]

Sheeeet, if i had my car, id be in the market for some of that stuff!

[markoverclock]

when you start talking about suspension stuff I get a little worried about strength...I'd need to be convinced that they are very strong :p

i will be using chromoly 4130 or 4140, i will give tensile strength and bernell hardness with what ever i use. So you can see for yourself the strength. lol. It will be stronger than stock.

[markoverclock]

http://image.modified.com/f/17349805/0108scc_fr200focus12_zoom.jpg

I was thinking something like your last picture here.

[mb7050]

^That would be great !

[markoverclock]

I think the revo system is nice but would require alot of cnc work and i cant get that kind of work done very cheap. I Like the way it would adapt easy. But i believe it would also limit the struts to choose from.

[mb7050]

the double-'A' arm setup is every bit as good as revo knuckle style setup even better IMO

[slage]

You can put me on the list for the LCA... depending on price of course


also, i still want a tubular front and rear crash bar lol

[J. Fast]

I was thinking something like your last picture here.

Close, more like this tho. It's much easier to see with a halfshaft in there.

http://archive.caranddriver.com/var/ezflow_site/storage/images/news/spied/09q3/2012_mercedes-benz_sls_amg_roadster_-spied/gallery/2012_mercedes-benz_sls_amg_double_wishbone_front_suspension_diag ram_photo_18/2740754-1-eng-US/image_cd_gallery.jpg

[MR2]

yeah ok, I might buy that :)

[green-lantern]

I'd love to have something like that but I'd trade some of the travel to make it more economical.

[GTOJOE]

the next problem would then be what suspension do you base that off? Unless you try to make that work with our struts then you need to pick a strut....

[MR2]

I'd love to have something like that but I'd trade some of the travel to make it more economical.

I would not.

[Permanent grin]

How about something to adjust caster?

André

[MR2]

with the Suspension, the top uneven A will be the hard part, how will you mount it? how will you make sure it stays 100% aligned? are there spots to go through on both of the chassis rails? I assume that's what you'd bolt to..as PG says, how adjustable will it be? I think 99% of us looking at buying such a solution would want a coil over solution, and probably the ability to fit deeper offsets without butchering the cars panels?

I'd actually be keen to see Mark start up a thread to discuss it.


something like this?

http://www.rapid-racer.com/resources/double%20wishbone%20suspension.jpg?timestamp=13044 42246282

Does not take away travel (in theory you could have more)
Does not have additional components between the shock and tyre stuffing up offset
the design of the lower arm could even let you keep stock shock, just change lower shock mount adapter or something?
While your doing this, would you adjust the brake mount to have it inboard?
keep stock bearing assembly + ABS sensor mount etc?

still the big question of what to mount the top control arm to...could you really mount it to the frame? don't the frame and subframe move slightly? a good thread to get GT into.

[mb7050]

http://image.modified.com/f/17349805/0108scc_fr200focus12_zoom.jpg
^would be a 'bolt on' solution, possibly no body modification.

http://www.carbibles.com/images/coilspring1.jpg


This is a type of double-A or double wishbone suspension. The wheel spindles are supported by an upper and lower 'A' shaped arm. In this type, the lower arm carries most of the load. If you look head-on at this type of system, what you'll find is that it's a very parallelogram system that allows the spindles to travel vertically up and down. When they do this, they also have a slight side-to-side motion caused by the arc that the wishbones describe around their pivot points. This side-to-side motion is known as scrub. Unless the links are infinitely long the scrub motion is always present. There are two other types of motion of the wheel relative to the body when the suspension articulates. The first and most important is a toe angle (steer angle). The second and least important, but the one which produces most pub talk is the camber angle, or lean angle. Steer and camber are the ones which wear tyres.


http://www.carbibles.com/images/coilspring2.jpg


This is also a type of double-A arm suspension although the lower arm in these systems can sometimes be replaced with a single solid arm (as in my picture). The only real difference between this and the previous system mentioned above is that the spring/shock combo is moved from between the arms to above the upper arm. This transfers the load-bearing capability of the suspension almost entirely to the upper arm and the spring mounts. The lower arm in this instance becomes a control arm. This particular type of system isn't so popular in cars as it takes up a lot room.


yet another way to do it ..., a quick creation;
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7661/quickphotoshop.jpg

IDK im just thinking out loud here;
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8540/anotherd.jpg

[FeaRpb]

I would love anything that replaces heavy OEM parts with lighter parts.

[markoverclock]

IDK im just thinking out loud here;
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/8540/anotherd.jpg

Something like this one but the upper ball joint would go into the adapter for the Hub.
I want to use the stock hubs.
It will have adjustable camber and caster.

I will make a jig to bolt onto the lower control arm mounts and that will align the upper mount so you could weld it into place and be aligned.

[Nationalmilkman]

What would be the benefits of basically adding a upper control arm the the stock suspension? The last picture looks as if that's all that would change, strut would still pivot with the knuckle, I just don't see the positive points in it, but I'm no wiz at the geometry of it all.

[markoverclock]

What would be the benefits of basically adding a upper control arm the the stock suspension? The last picture looks as if that's all that would change, strut would still pivot with the knuckle, I just don't see the positive points in it, but I'm no wiz at the geometry of it all.

No the strut wont be stationary to the knuckle it will swivel on the adapter.

[Nationalmilkman]

So the strut with still turn, right? What does it add the the setup of the suspension, though?

[mb7050]

Double wishbone designs allows to carefully control the motion of the wheel throughout suspension travel, controlling such parameters as camber angle, caster angle, toe pattern, roll center height, scrub radius, scuff and more.

The advantage of a double wishbone suspension is that it is fairly easy to work out the effect of moving each joint, so the kinematics of the suspension can be tuned easily and wheel motion can be optimized. It is also easy to work out the loads that different parts will be subjected to which allows more optimized lightweight parts to be designed. They also provide increasing negative camber gain all the way to full jounce travel unlike the MacPherson strut which provides negative camber gain only at the beginning of jounce travel and then reverses into positive camber gain at high jounce amounts.

Double wishbones are usually considered to have superior dynamic characteristics as well as load-handling capabilities, and are found on higher performance vehicles. Examples of makes in which double wishbones can be found include Alfa Romeo, Honda and Mercedes-Benz. Short long arms suspension, a type of double wishbone suspension, is very common on front suspensions for medium-to-large cars such as the Honda Accord, Peugeot 407, or Mazda 6/Atenza, and is very common on sports cars and racing cars.


BMW too seems to be switching from mc struts to a double wishbone setup(new 5 series for example)
http://www.autoscope.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/2011-bmw-5-series-sedan.jpg


...Nissan GTR style double wishbone setup (just a sketch)
http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2010/324/e/9/double_wishbone_suspension_by_bigpixel-d3398h7.jpg

[MR2]

wow I like it :)

[slage]

i like it! :D

[TT Eric]

Anything that make our car significantly lighter and improve handling and allow me to keep my actual Coilover and actual wheels (no major offset change) I'm interested. It would be very cool to 'update' our cars.

Eric

[MR2]

Anything that make our car significantly lighter and improve handling and allow me to keep my actual Coilover and actual wheels (no major offset change) I'm interested. It would be very cool to 'update' our cars.

Eric

See, this is where we're stuck, with the design that has the bar that runs up to above the Tyre it's seriously impacting on Tyre wall room, which is why skylines etc usually have offsets around +10 and 0, this impingement on the guard space will also hinder using wider tires... BUT

if your going to all the effort of doing this stuffing around, your going to need new rims, probably new shocks. the reason this works for the skylines I ASSUME, is that they have the shock towers further inboard...

How the offset effects the car's tracking would be more to do with the knuckle design wouldn't it?

need the un-even A, with both of the arms mounting below the tyre line with just the shock sticking through as per normal (similar to the design I posted, but with the shock between the legs of the A as opposed to the hole in the center.

[mb7050]

http://www.carbibles.com/images/macphersonstrut.jpg

^ much like our front suspension. 'un-even' A desing is prity much a must I think...

not really..many ways to do it
you get the idea
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h107/Ghazzah/5.jpg?t=1280729857


idk I have to take a look at the front suspension tomorrow

[markoverclock]

ya i forgot about it turning, i could still make it swivel on top. But i really dont want to. So we are looking at top of a-arm or using the wishbone adapter on lower. I was thinking of using dsm coilovers. But still need to get my car home and start measuring things up. i would like to increase the distance from tire to strut but dont know if that will be able without welding more to the car. If we use the same top adapter then we are limited to how much angle we could place the struts. therefore limiting the clearance.

[MR2]

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h107/Ghazzah/5.jpg?t=1280729857


idk I have to take a look at the front suspension tomorrow

exactly...pretty much your only option, and notice how the upper A arm is mounted to the subframe, not the rails themselves? that is something I think we'd need to keep. not impossible, just weld onto the subframe and wrap around the frame rails etc
I'd not be worrying about keeping the stock stock setup as anyone going THIS far won't be running their car 90% of the time on the road, and if they do they are going to be OK with some additional stiffness, you should be fine keeping the top mount though and with a custom lower mount that uses the normal coilover mount points in theory most people with coil overs could stick with them...

[mb7050]

using the wishbone adapter on lower.

^this definitely because I´m thinking that mounting the shock to the upper arm would shorten the travel too much

you could gain little more room Strut vs Tire by mounting the strut more inboard

[MR2]

not going to help that much, when you run the wheel further inboard you start to hit the frame with the tire at full lock anyway :|

[markoverclock]

not going to help that much, when you run the wheel further inboard you start to hit the frame with the tire at full lock anyway :|

how wide of a tire hits?

[MR2]

at 19x10+42 with a 285/35R19 at full lock it JUST hits the rails, this is with the alignment at 0 camber, keep in mind this is a larger than stock OD, but you get the idea.

most race tire's are wider than the same size road tyre as well :| it's why I'm keeping an eye on Permenant grin's DR1400 build...see how the R888's go against his shocks.

[markoverclock]

i dont think during road racing you normally do any full tilt turning correct?
also permenant grin also went wider on the offset too with a wide body kit.

[MR2]

you'd definitely not do any full tilt turns unless your going hairpins or something, you don't want your tires contacting the rails no matter what your doing though so if your going a custom setup you need to keep in mind the bearing center-line etc (but then I don't need to tell you any of this), and yeah he did, quite a few of us think there will be oodles of room between his tire and shock to have had a higher offset (and improve things like the bump steer/ increase the lifespan of bearings etc)

[FeaRpb]

A nice flowing 4'' downpipe would be nice to see.

[J. Fast]

exactly...pretty much your only option, and notice how the upper A arm is mounted to the subframe, not the rails themselves? that is something I think we'd need to keep. not impossible, just weld onto the subframe and wrap around the frame rails etc
I'd not be worrying about keeping the stock stock setup as anyone going THIS far won't be running their car 90% of the time on the road, and if they do they are going to be OK with some additional stiffness, you should be fine keeping the top mount though and with a custom lower mount that uses the normal coilover mount points in theory most people with coil overs could stick with them...

Are you saying just convert to double wishbone and stick with stock coilover mounts?

[MR2]

more or less, yes.

assuming you have a pivoting bracket that goes between the lower A arm and the bottom mount of the shock, a bracket could be made to suite any shock lower mount if you get what I'm saying

[Nationalmilkman]

at 19x10+42 with a 285/35R19 at full lock it JUST hits the rails, this is with the alignment at 0 camber, keep in mind this is a larger than stock OD, but you get the idea.

most race tire's are wider than the same size road tyre as well :| it's why I'm keeping an eye on Permenant grin's DR1400 build...see how the R888's go against his shocks.

What rim/tire size is P. G. using?

[MR2]

315/30/18 R888's
Rays Volks TE37SL 18 x 10.5 ET +15

[Nationalmilkman]

I had 295/30/18 R888 on 18x10 +22, great tire and a lot bigger than any other tire I've had but I still had a lot of room inside(tire to stock strut).

[MR2]

did you take pictures or measure it at all?

[Nationalmilkman]

With that set up I had about 1" between tire and strut

[MR2]

sounds about right, the stock strut actually has more clearance than many coil overs when you go a lower profile rubber, with my Teins and DMS's shocks the tire was high enough to actually be into the spring space.

[FeaRpb]

How about a COP setup?

[MR2]

not just any COP setup, one that does not have the coils sitting on top of the cover plate...using CBR1000R coils that don't extend up past the spark plug opening...

[markoverclock]

whats wrong with the stock coils, just need a dli and your good. Unless your willing to pay the money. Cop is not cheap.We would need 6 coils, wiring and brackets. do you know of anyone wanting to pay 800-1k for that setup?

[a2j]

I want/need Solid rear diff/subframe bushings. Thanks.

[FeaRpb]

Nope, I wouldn't pay $800-1000 for a COP setup

[MR2]

Second hand coils..$50 for 4

HONDA CBR CBR1000 CBR1000RR IGNITION COILS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CBR-CBR1000-CBR1000RR-IGNITION-COILS-/270065729240?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ee12bfed8#ht_500wt_969)

Second hand harness $27

04 05 Honda CBR1000RR CBR 1000RR Ignition Coil Harness | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/04-05-Honda-CBR1000RR-CBR-1000RR-Ignition-Coil-Harness-/140580856642?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bb45a342#ht_2837wt_792)

the coils pretty much sit in the existing holes...maybe a rubber grommet to keep them just right, then the bar that covers the whole lot has what...a little bit of rubber to hold each one down?

where is $800 to 1k coming from?

put me on the list for Double wishbone suspension...of course this would depend on price/what it's compatible with etc


Anyone reading this, go look at the first page and put your hand up for what parts you'd be keen on.

[mehrshadvr4]

i would like front and rear subframe and control arms. double wishbone suspension is nice if we can find out the way to make it work on our cars. i'm sure if you make tube fron subframe you can adopt sla in there also. Evos have struts like ours though and they roll the tracks.

[markoverclock]

Second hand coils..$50 for 4

HONDA CBR CBR1000 CBR1000RR IGNITION COILS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CBR-CBR1000-CBR1000RR-IGNITION-COILS-/270065729240?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ee12bfed8#ht_500wt_969)

Second hand harness $27

04 05 Honda CBR1000RR CBR 1000RR Ignition Coil Harness | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/04-05-Honda-CBR1000RR-CBR-1000RR-Ignition-Coil-Harness-/140580856642?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bb45a342#ht_2837wt_792)

the coils pretty much sit in the existing holes...maybe a rubber grommet to keep them just right, then the bar that covers the whole lot has what...a little bit of rubber to hold each one down?

where is $800 to 1k coming from?

put me on the list for Double wishbone suspension...of course this would depend on price/what it's compatible with etc


Anyone reading this, go look at the first page and put your hand up for what parts you'd be keen on.

But would they be any better than stock, hotter spark or higher kv output? it not worth doing if its not an upgrade. maybe something with msd cop or accel.

[MR2]

Good question really, need someone to test this stuff and find out...then put a kit together :)

unfortunately not something I can look into, I'll probably just go the Eclipse's COP that it comes with (I've more or less got a MIVEC engine coming along) be keen to look at upgrading that system down the track though if/when someone comes up with a hardcore but discrete COP system (if MSD HAS to be done then so be it)

[GTOJOE]

Good question really, need someone to test this stuff and find out...then put a kit together :)

unfortunately not something I can look into, I'll probably just go the Eclipse's COP that it comes with (I've more or less got a MIVEC engine coming along) be keen to look at upgrading that system down the track though if/when someone comes up with a hardcore but discrete COP system (if MSD HAS to be done then so be it)

Just use stock coils and a HKS Twin Power DLI and hide the unit. Looks stock then.

[MR2]

oh look I agree, his money/time is better spent on some of the other projects listed.

[ja3gt]

This is some pretty sweet stuff i actually mite be interested in the solid bushings depending how much stiffer/solid the car feels
Mark is definately the mann for some fabrication he's a baddass
Too badd he cant keep up with me in some c.o.d tho..

[markoverclock]

Too badd he cant keep up with me in some c.o.d tho..

You wish i OWN You!!! lol.

[ja3gt]

You wish i OWN You!!! lol.

Coming from the man who likes to camp out and roast marshmallows lol
U should do some kinda kit for the fuel pump assembly thing
Something like this :)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c308/bigj_27/IMAG0477.jpg

[markoverclock]

Coming from the man who likes to camp out and roast marshmallows lol
U should do some kinda kit for the fuel pump assembly thing
Something like this :)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c308/bigj_27/IMAG0477.jpg

I will be doing something different than that one i modified for you. I can still do those for that need their stock ones repaired just send me your pump and stock fuel hose. Those would be $125 for those not looking to upgrade their pump. its a direct bolt on with stock fitting going the line on the bottom of the car. Just as you see his picture.

Ill be manufacturing one that can hold 3 wine bros in the tank with only one fitting on top, can be made for single pump, twins, or trips, -6 outlet to -10 outlets available. Made from ss or aluminum i haven't decided that yet. i believe ss is my leaning option. will post up pics as soon as i get started on it.

[MR2]

What's the SS vs Alu go with fuels? I know Earls suggested Aluminium lines for me...

would it be impossible to get an aluminium one that takes the stock level sensors & has 2 pickups for external pumps?

[markoverclock]

What's the SS vs Alu go with fuels? I know Earls suggested Aluminium lines for me...

would it be impossible to get an aluminium one that takes the stock level sensors & has 2 pickups for external pumps?

Yes i can, but most external fuel pumps require sumping a tank, not siphon tubes.
and yes i will have the stock pickup sensor installed on all of the assembly.

Either Stainless Steel or Aluminum. Im really leaning toward the stainless one. Smaller welds and stronger material when thin. Plus no rust.:p

[markoverclock]

Also if you guys could spread the word on the fab parts. that would be great. After x-mas we will see what lists are the longest and start on making the parts and pricing.

[MR2]

I would assume that you could use an external pump with the stock pickup? this is the direction I'm more or less heading in? stock pump would cavitate and drop to 0 pump pressure on air pickup as well surely?

[markoverclock]

I would assume that you could use an external pump with the stock pickup? this is the direction I'm more or less heading in? stock pump would cavitate and drop to 0 pump pressure on air pickup as well surely?

the way you are talking about, they dont recomend it. because the pumps are not suction pumps just turbine pumps. you can use a stock style in tank fuel pump and a bosch o44. but that really still is restricted on the first pump. i does help say a 255lph pump flow more like 280 or so. but at some point the first pump is a restriction. that is why im doing one, two, or three in tank pumps.

3 for the people who want to use e85 like me and shoot for 1xxx. also helps people do the upgrade slowly. you can buy a single pump then upgrade to 2 then to 3 and all you need to do is buy another pump and modify the one i made to begin with. so your not loosing money buy a whole new setup. Sure you loose a little do to having it upgraded. but that way you only pay for the upgrade as needed.

[MR2]

I assume your referring to priming issues? the Weldon 2015-A(one to start.. a second down the track if I really have issues) I'm looking at is self priming, I'm assuming your worried about getting air in the line?

I understand what your working towards don't mean to be a pain in the arse :)

[markoverclock]

look at the directions, they still want a sumped gas tank.

[MR2]

Michael,
As long as the pick up tube is properly positioned, my fuel pump can lift up and out of your fuel tank. Be careful to not route the return fuel flow back into the “bucket area” and also use a 40 micron WEQ1040CLN before the fuel pump to prevent contamination to the fuel pump. Sure, if the pump is below the fuel level and fed from a sumped area the pump would operate more “freely” – but with my pump’s capabilities this is not an absolute necessity. There are many offroad and roadracing teams that position the pump exactly as you plan to and they all “lift” up and out of the cell. Now, if the pump is placed more than 8 – 10 inches above the top of the tank, a one-way check valve on the outlet side would be ideal to prevent the back-flow of fuel into the tank.
Good Luck and if you have any other questions, please call or email

Thanks,

Jim Craig -- Racing Products Mgr.

Weldon Racing Pump
640 Golden Oak Pkwy
Oakwood Village, OH 44146
USA
Ph: 440-232-2282 ext. 103
Fax: 440-232-0606
Cell: 440-465-1061
Email: jcraig@weldonpumps.com


This email, and any files transmitted with it, are confidential and intended for use by the addressee only. The confidential nature of the information contained in the email and/or file attachment is not waived, lost or destroyed if it is sent to other than the addressee. Use or dissemination of the information contained in the email and/or file attachment, by a recipient other than the addressee, may cause commercial damage to both/either the sender and/or addressee. If you are not the addressee of this email/file attachment contact the sender immediately and delete this email/file attachment.

[MR2]

So my general plan is 75micron filter bag on the pickup's, 10Micron before pump, 6 micron before injectors. (been the plan since day 1)

anyhow none of that really matters, but if you can make a good light twin 8an end to end hanger I'll be in :) if possible some 90 degree bends with a nice radius out of the top but you know what your doing.

[<nv>]

early in the new year i will take a roll cage and then later on in the year a subframe and lower control arms

[MR2]

Put me on the 4 channel ABS list.

according to the Australian laws a Diagonally split ABS system means your not allowed to change anything with your rim/tyre size/offset as it introduces unpredictable effects... no way I'm getting defected because of ABS not being happy and it's illegal to remove it.
the other guys looking at ABS might want to figure out why there might be an issue...it would probably convince more people.

[markoverclock]

Not interested in doing abs stuff. But your fuel pump hanger i can make you.

[MR2]

OH sorry the ABS was for another thread :)

let me know when you get near some of this stuff, I'm probably 2 months out from putting $$$ down on the fuel hanger itself.

[FeaRpb]

Remote IAC blocks :)

Or just one. haha I need one.

[markoverclock]

Remote IAC blocks :)

Or just one. haha I need one.

send me your stock i can modify it to be remote. Ive already done mine and davids. Looking at $65 to mod it.

[anyonebutme]

Put me on the 4 channel ABS list.

according to the Australian laws a Diagonally split ABS system means your not allowed to change anything with your rim/tyre size/offset as it introduces unpredictable effects... no way I'm getting defected because of ABS not being happy and it's illegal to remove it.
the other guys looking at ABS might want to figure out why there might be an issue...it would probably convince more people.

I haz options for that. Want an ATE Mk 6.0 4 channel system with yaw control and motorsport flashed controller with laptop connection cable? $11,684.60 with new hardware all around, plus shipping. Does NOT include 2 brake pressure sensors (front and rear primary circuit pedal pressure), wheel speed sensors, and yaw rate sensor, which can be purchased separately. Comes with on-off switch for resetting on track and warning/diagnostic LED, and complete electrical harness. Porsche GT3 guys like this system to get rid of the troublesome PASM. Everyone is Grand Am is using it now, basically. I can get you a non-motorsport flashed system with used hardware for less, but I will not make your hardlines for you, you are on your own for that. Liability issue. Unless you want a complete soft line system.

[JasonY]

Compound turbo setup?

:D

Jason

[mb7050]

a triple compound

[markoverclock]

cmon guys your getting a little out of hand, lol.

[JasonY]

I might be after u for some single turbo manifolds and downpipe and remainder of the exhaust. I might sell my ips ones since I don't want to cut/mod them to adapt to a more street friendly setup. All V bands from the turbo back, no stupid bolts/gaskets!

Would want identical placement as ips(or abouts) to allow gravity oil drain and would work with my air/water ic setup which lives where the stock battery was and is directly affixed to the throttle body. But would absolutely need recircd wastegates, which the current setup I have is all wrong for that and being already coated not worth redoing it all again.

Jason

[markoverclock]

I might be after u for some single turbo manifolds and downpipe and remainder of the exhaust. I might sell my ips ones since I don't want to cut/mod them to adapt to a more street friendly setup. All V bands from the turbo back, no stupid bolts/gaskets!

Would want identical placement as ips(or abouts) to allow gravity oil drain and would work with my air/water ic setup which lives where the stock battery was and is directly affixed to the throttle body. But would absolutely need recircd wastegates, which the current setup I have is all wrong for that and being already coated not worth redoing it all again.

Jason

show me a picture of your underhood. Also what intake do you have?
I was really thinking of redoing mine to the one just like you stated. If your serious in really doing it, i will make it.

[JasonY]

Got a phone number? I'm limited to internet use on my droid, too long to type out all the small details.

Jason

[TT Eric]

Got a phone number? I'm limited to internet use on my droid, too long to type out all the small details.

Jason

AH-HA! This is the reason why I don't see you anymore on AIM! :)

Eric

[FeaRpb]

Hey Mark, I will send to you when we get more into the intercooler stuff we were talking about.

[MR2]

was thinking the other day...

some sort of slimline number plate holder that uses the OEM bolt spots (for the front) ? the plastic thing takes up a whopping amount of space with something like 1" of overshoot top and bottom..?

[a2j]

is there a time frame for this? or ETA?

[markoverclock]

is there a time frame for this? or ETA?

will start after this week, on designs. Why what did you need?

[a2j]

just would like to plan ahead

[CntrlSwitch]

Add me in for solid rear subframe bushings since my rear is currently on a picnic table next to my car lol (depending on cost)

[Vantage]

I'm going to have to put my wish list on hold for a little while, since the VR4 just decided to roundhouse kick my wallet for twice the amount I thought it was going to.

[MR2]

how about a replacement brake shield that allows for brake ducting?

[MeTarzan]

I had started a thread like this but we have gotten so tied up at teh shop with contract work since our new machine arived we havent had anytime to develope anything yet. Hope this takes off I'd love to see some new and more available parts come out.

[markoverclock]

Anyone know a good website guy, i would like to get one made, not alot to add on it at the moment. Looking to see if anyone would like to do some trading?

[markoverclock]

Well looks like im making the single turbo kit first, lol. Im currently going to redesign mine and jigg it. Also the fuel pump will also be done first as well. So you single guys speek up if your interested. I should be started and done by next month on the single kit and fuel pump hangers.


Havent forgot about the rear solid diffs ill try and slide that in here as well. Then the lower cromoly subframes and control arms.

[FeaRpb]

Great news, and good luck.

[JasonY]

Cool, im trying to get the money together, but the IRS has really stuck it to me this year. I still owe almost 10k in April. 22k a year in taxes anyone? FML

Jason

[markoverclock]

Cool, im trying to get the money together, but the IRS has really stuck it to me this year. I still owe almost 10k in April. 22k a year in taxes anyone? FML

Jason

you need more write offs.

[JasonY]

I need a bunch of 6.0 powerstrokes, not just one! LOL

Jason

[anyonebutme]

lol @ writeoff joke that 90% of people wont get.

[markoverclock]

First page updated again!

[markoverclock]

Single turbo kit, can be broken down in sections so dont have to buy it with the fmic parts or drivers side intake.

(1) Details on the kit, For me 1.75 primaries equal length can be 1.625 or 1.5 for you small turbo guys. Full merge, flex joint from bank to bank. All backpurged welded. Tial 44mm v-band, with flex on dump to recirculating. 3" downpipe to stock exhuast (cat).( can be changed)

(2) Fmic part of it 2.5 or 3 charge pipes, 12*24*3 core. 3"in and out. Drivers side intake( will require your core )

(3) Turbo is optional, kit will be made with a standard 3" v-band housing in mind.

[ja3gt]

Ohhh the single kit really is starting to sound interesting now.

[92pearltt]

Where is the turbo going to be placed for the single kit?

[markoverclock]

Ohhh the single kit really is starting to sound interesting now.

then jump on, lol

[markoverclock]

Where is the turbo going to be placed for the single kit?

in front of transmission, I want it to retain, stock fans, coolant bottle, batttery, can make it for stock mas too if needed.

Playing with a couple different design in my head, one will allow for 4 dp, and keeping a.c. but the piping will be more exspensive. on the hot sides. ill know more when i get my flanges in and start on the headers, Using a stock car for mock up.

[JasonY]

Both stock fans or using two stock a/c fans? If i can keep a/c i'll be one hugely happy SOB!

Jason

[Intropy]

Somebody told me you're making / converting remote IAC blocks, is that true?

[MR2]

Heat shields :)

[92pearltt]

in front of transmission, I want it to retain, stock fans, coolant bottle, batttery, can make it for stock mas too if needed.

Playing with a couple different design in my head, one will allow for 4 dp, and keeping a.c. but the piping will be more exspensive. on the hot sides. ill know more when i get my flanges in and start on the headers, Using a stock car for mock up.

Very good, I will more than likely be down for a set of mani's. I will have to see if I can have you tweak a few things as I want a forward facing setup with either 2 wastegate ports or one big one, but we can discuss that once the original design is completed.

[ja3gt]

then jump on, lol

its growing on me.
i mite get attached to it if i get to touch it :)

[markoverclock]

Somebody told me you're making / converting remote IAC blocks, is that true?

yes, i need your original one, i cut it up and weld it up. and put in 2 1/8 npt ports one for a stone filter other is for vacum.

[markoverclock]

Yes it will have heat shields and im going to try and make it fit the stock fans both of them, also fitting everything stock as possible. i will know for sure in like 2-3 weeks when my material and turbo come back. I sent my comp tipple bb back in to get the billet upgrade. i will be using my turbo for mock up. It will be the 4inlet and 3 outlet big cover. with 3in dp.

It will also have heat sheilds on the lower half covering were the oil pan will be close to pipes.

[markoverclock]

i will try and brake this kit down for options for people to have such as heat shields or not. My heat shields wont be really cheap. i plan making them contoured to the header pipes, and also have insulation on the inside or sandwiched with insulation ( will be not cheap by any means ) Hopefully i find a way of just using insulation without sandwiching it.

also will have options for egt in every runner, 02 bungs in every runner. And the standard one on each bank for your stock o2 sensors or widebands for standard fuel trim. Good to have even if you dont use them now, great to have the for trouble shooting problems if they ever arise.

Ceramic coating optional, i will use a place locally called, polydyn. ( i can only give estimate on this after its built and they see it. ) used them before with great success.

Mild steel optional? (dont think the price change could justify it in material cost)

Fmic optional

(Drivers side or pass) intake with bigger surge tank optional. Must send in yours for conversions.

v-band connections or 2 bolt? ( undecided if i should just one style only, V-band )



P.S.
If any of you know a good website builder guy interested in a kit discounted for exchange, but no first timers, i would like to see something they already built. Pm if any ones interested. I also have a couple local friends i might use if i cant find someone on here for (trade).

[JasonY]

Thats great news about the fans since the stock fans are better than just about any you can buy. Also my turbo will be a garrett 37 frame compressoer housing, for a size reference...

Jason

[kywhitelightning]

I'm in for solid rear subframe/diff bushings.

[MR2]

Thats great news about the fans since the stock fans are better than just about any you can buy. Also my turbo will be a garrett 37 frame compressoer housing, for a size reference...

Jason

This deserves discussion, Mark has been suggesting that the Spal fan's are an upgrade to the stock ones, they do seem like one company that MAY be able to pull it off, I'd want to see figures on the stock fans first though...

[mb3000]

This deserves discussion, Mark has been suggesting that the Spal fan's are an upgrade to the stock ones, they do seem like one company that MAY be able to pull it off, I'd want to see figures on the stock fans first though...

http://www.3sgto.org/f2/radiator-fans-stock-vs-rest-7550.html#post146313

[markoverclock]

look at the fans ill be using, SPAL USA (http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102038)

These have a pdf file that gives you the flows of the fans and different restricition levels, they pull up to looks like 22amps each, and a max suction flow of 1640cfm each. Im also making a custom alum fan shroud for these fans. These are not cheap by any means. But the best never are.

On my last engine i had overheating problems with (4) mishimoto fans 2 pushers and 2 pullers( only flow 900cfm rating with no rating on restrictions). with a koyo rad and 3inch fmic core. In the hot texas heat with the a.c. on in stop or slow traffic i overheated.

Im also using the spal fan controller on the new engine, very very nice controller already installed one in davids car and it works like a charm.
now i wont have to worry about that anymore.

You could do a suction test on oem vs spal but im not spending the money to proove what i already know from seeing stock fans, cheap aftermarket and these.
Stock fans do work great for some, but if you want the most flow you wont be disoppointed is these. they do have slim line fans, but they cant match the flows of the spal high performance or extreme fans. the pitch on the fan blade is huge, thus combined with a strong heavy duty motor give great flow that cant be matched.

[markoverclock]

i do get better pricing than that if anyones interested. I could also do a fan shroud for those really wanting these.

[JasonY]

Wow..that sucker is almost 4" deep!

Jason

[ja3gt]

Wow..that sucker is almost 4" deep!

Jason

Thats wut she said ;)

[JasonY]

If she did, shes easy to please....

Jason

[ja3gt]

Ohh yes! i mite have a chance.

[markoverclock]

Lol lets not loose track of what the thread is intended for. lol.

[MR2]

on the discussion we had in chat the other day about heatshielding, I assume the heat shielding I linked you to (ACL branded) is not going to withstand 900 deg c direct as it's made from aluminium sheet.

anyone know what the OEM shields are made from? thin stainless or something?

[markoverclock]

on the discussion we had in chat the other day about heatshielding, I assume the heat shielding I linked you to (ACL branded) is not going to withstand 900 deg c direct as it's made from aluminium sheet.

anyone know what the OEM shields are made from? thin stainless or something?

https://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=16850/681.0

im not puting the heat sheilding laying on the runners. It will be suspended like stock style only by 3/8 inch. i want the sheilding stuck on the back of the heat sheilds.

I also want a clam shell design for both sides of the headers.

[markoverclock]

Im thinking on the fuel pump hanger, 200 for single, 220 for twins, 240 for triples.

what do you all think on those prices?

[Erron Spalsbury]

Thats wut she said ;)

LOL!

Mark, can you PM me a price please? Also the 14" if you have that.

[FeaRpb]

Love the price on those Mark.

[markoverclock]

LOL!

Mark, can you PM me a price please? Also the 14" if you have that.

Pm sent but not sure what your wanting a price on,lol

[markoverclock]

had some time to play with the software for making the headers. This is just a header design equal length but not the ones ill make for our car

[markoverclock]

[img=http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7444/65057114.th.jpg] (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/65057114.jpg/)

[MR2]

Mark, that is seriously cool shit :)

[ja3gt]

This is def baddass theres so much stuff to play with on there
Diagrams
Precise lengths
Dimentions
Weight

[TurboSinceBirth]

What software did you use?

[markoverclock]

wouldnt you like to know, lol.

[TurboSinceBirth]

wouldnt you like to know, lol.

I was just curious. I didn't know they had anything like that publicly available or at least priced low enough that a consumer could afford it. I could search for it if I wanted just haven't felt the need to since all I'd do with it would be to mess around to see what the program did instead of actually putting it to good use.

[arm0red1]

Havent seen if this was mentioned already, so here goes:

Would you be looking into possibly producing an IAC relocation block for a easy to swallow price?? Removing the FIAV opens a good chunk of engine bay for those looking to declutter, (knowing a lot of us 3s guys and espectially our tt engines, that wouldn't be such a bad thing :) ) and/or still gives the guys with an aftermarket throttle body an option to have some stockish driveability and idle with more extreme setups. I'd personally buy one right now this tax season as I'm trying the flash tunning thing out from gatecrasher and Greg E/Monochrome- I have a different tb relocated to the other side, and I'm having difficulty locating any suppliers of this, the last being monkey wrench racing posts from years ago, it'd be a nice, liveable option for the more whipped out setups and offer a solid dressup mod for the more tame by removing the fiav.

[markoverclock]

its 50 to have yours coverted to a remote mount with no coolant lines.

[arm0red1]

Sold. Pm me ypur paypal and ill pm you my info.

[markoverclock]

sent!

[familyMAN]

I haven't seen the details, but I'd be interested in a 6 pt cage with harness mount.

[markoverclock]

I haven't seen the details, but I'd be interested in a 6 pt cage with harness mount.

havent gotten to that one yet, but stay tuned,lol. ill have that not to much longer with a 3d print of it.

[FeaRpb]

Custom wiring harness for the car? One that only runs to what is needed to drive on the road?

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[markoverclock]

Custom wiring harness for the car? One that only runs to what is needed to drive on the road?

Post via Tapatalk

Thats basically what im going to do on my car. But I havent got the engine in the car yet. Only issue i see will be we cant get the connectors for our cars sensors, so we have to reuse ours.

[FeaRpb]

Ahh I see.

I would love to have a harness that just runs to the lights of the car, the speedo and gauges, and the engine.

[Permanent grin]

That is exactly what I am running. I had Eurospec build it from scratch. We tried stripping down a full stock loom but tracing what was interconnected to what was a nightmare, so built one from the ground up. There was a ton of wire that came out!

André

[markoverclock]

That is exactly what I am running. I had Eurospec build it from scratch. We tried stripping down a full stock loom but tracing what was interconnected to what was a nightmare, so built one from the ground up. There was a ton of wire that came out!

André

did they find new connectors or just use your old ones and soldier new wires?

[Permanent grin]

They used my old connectors from the loom they removed I believe.

André

[FeaRpb]

Any updates?

[a2j]

any chance of solid bushings (subframe/diff) will be done by the end of April? Thinking about just buying factory rubber bushings... I need car ready for UMG2012

[markoverclock]

solid bushings probally not done by april, as for updates, i should be starting on the single kit in like 2-3 weeks, im just waiting on my bilett oil pump gears so i can install the engine. then it will be the solid bushings.

[FeaRpb]

I want to get my damn core already and mail it to you

[markoverclock]

I want to get my damn core already and mail it to you

if you have one mail it that would help speed up the process. that way i dont have to remove mine to get started on the developement.

[92pearltt]

Any updates on the single kit?

[markoverclock]

ordering header material next week, turbo is on the way now. so should have something by next weekend atleast drawn up in software.

[mehrshadvr4]

high volume oil pump is a must for our cars. almost every car that is popular for modification has a available high volume pump.

[MR2]

a lot of cars also have problems with running out of oil due to too much getting stuck in the heads.

[JasonY]

high volume oil pump is a must for our cars. almost every car that is popular for modification has a available high volume pump.

Already exists, its called SCE Dry Sump.

Jason

[mehrshadvr4]

a lot of cars also have problems with running out of oil due to too much getting stuck in the heads.
it's mostly rb26 has this problem, some people say it's because of high crank case pressure that stop the oil from returning which can be fixed by venting the crank case better and some say it's because of little oil drain holes on the head since it only have one in front of the head and one in the back which explain this problem with such a long head the inline engine has.


Already exists, its called SCE Dry Sump.

Jason

for $3800 i would look for better alternatives :D.

[MR2]

for $3,800 you guys have no idea how good a value that is... try making something like that in AU and you'd quickly be over $6k

[mb3000]

for $3,800 you guys have no idea how good a value that is... try making something like that in AU and you'd quickly be over $6k

Y'all have to pay out of the ass for everything :lol:

[MR2]

nah it's all good, we just buy EVERYTHING from America :p awesome quality is dirt cheap over there.

[mehrshadvr4]

for $3,800 you guys have no idea how good a value that is... try making something like that in AU and you'd quickly be over $6k

i'm sure it's good value, but a high flow oil pump and higher capacity oil pan is much cheaper. :)

[anyonebutme]

i'm sure it's good value, but a high flow oil pump and higher capacity oil pan is much cheaper. :)

After Wayne's billet gears, oil pressure gets a bit much anyways, anymore high flow and you have to start thinking of ways to bypass it. So the option you want it already available.

[92pearltt]

updates?

[markoverclock]

updates?

i have had some things come up and havent had the cash for the material for the headers yet, Dont worry ive also been doing some side jobs. As soon as im caught up on money ill order the material. But right now im broke:(

[OBXBoost]

Mark, what about small things like synchronizers and friction rings? :)

[markoverclock]

Mark, what about small things like synchronizers and friction rings? :)

what do you mean? Me making them, uh no. Me replacing them yes deff.lol.

[3000GTPro]

Are OEM design replacements in the works, since parts for the entire platform aren't made anymore?