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Patryn
10-11-2011, 06:40 PM
Took the car to the Mitsubishi dealership for an alignment today. Anyone have any suggestions on what is going on with the alignment from the below chart? This is with a Megan coilover setup. Last alignment with the Megans and there were no issues with alignment. The only thing I can see that is an issue was on the right rear where the camber adjustment bolt seems worn, which is a matter of just replacing the bolt. Think there might be some other area to look at? Physically looking at it I could not see any damage or undue wear and tear once I got the car home to give it a look over.

http://i810.photobucket.com/albums/zz25/patryn882005/Alignment.jpg

B-Man
10-11-2011, 06:52 PM
Was that before or after the alignment? Did they run out of adjustment? Did it change from the last time you had it aligned?nI don't understand what you're asking.

Patryn
10-11-2011, 07:00 PM
That was the after. Last time I had it aligned it was all in spec. The left rear I can see what might be causing the adjustment issue in how the bolt is worn, however with the front it appears that it can still be adjusted, especially the camber. Does anyone have any issues when trying to align our cars with Megan coilover setups? Would it be beneficial to install a set of adjustable rear control arms on this setup, as is it needed? Is there also a recommended torque for the front Megan coilover camber bolts?

mcshooter
10-11-2011, 07:12 PM
iif thats a computer job go somewhere else. all you have to do is lean against a wheel to change the numbers, also if they do not unhook the rear and do it first they dont know what they are doing. i assume you are 4 wheel drive.. we have megans and no problems ever

B-Man
10-11-2011, 07:14 PM
lol, if that's after, you need to go someplace else. I don't understand why so many places have problems with alignments on these cars.

Patryn
10-11-2011, 07:58 PM
I'm assuming it might have been a complications with the Mitsu Tech and Megans, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't something common with alignment specs as it pertains to Megan Coilovers on our cars. Car was pulling left for some reason, so decided to take it in for an alignment job. I'll get the replacement bolt for the rear and see how that goes. I talked with the service guy at Mitsubishi dealership, and he offered to do it again, on their bill. I guess after talking with him, the tech doing the car didn't know to look under the hood for the adjustment on top of the Megan's in the front.

However, has anyone found a good torque setting or fix for the Megan Coilovers breaking loose in the front, as in even if the bolts are tight, in a tight turn they will sometimes allow the coilover to slide? They are marked so I can put them back, but wondering if there is a work around for that issue.

GTOJOE
10-11-2011, 08:20 PM
The rears on mine are out of adjustment. Stuck at 1.5% or something like that. I have purchased adjustable rear control arms to fix this..... it's a very common issue with our cars once they have been lowered.

IPD
10-12-2011, 07:27 AM
i have adjustable control arms...they're worth their weight in gold.

p.s.
dual-adjustment pillowballs might help too.

DocWalt
10-12-2011, 12:23 PM
Geez that's worse than Mitsu's terrible factory alignment. Go somewhere else that knows what they're doing.

Roybatty
10-12-2011, 02:32 PM
The rears on mine are out of adjustment. Stuck at 1.5% or something like that. I have purchased adjustable rear control arms to fix this..... it's a very common issue with our cars once they have been lowered.


i have adjustable control arms...they're worth their weight in gold.

p.s.
dual-adjustment pillowballs might help too.

Just got mine done today @ lunch. Tech was able to get front spot on but only get the rears "close enough" to spec where I shouldn't notice it. Whatever that means. But he explained couldn't adjust it anymore. Nothing is lowered.

So basically; I need to get this>>
3SX Adjustable Control Arms - AWD Twin Turbo Camber*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1454)?

DocWalt
10-12-2011, 03:20 PM
I'd personally go with Maximal's camber arms with the heavy duty ends: Suspension - AWD Adjustable Control Arms - Maximal Performance (http://www.maximalperformance.com/store/suspension/awd-adjustable-control-arms/prod_63.html)

FWIW, my VR4 was barely within spec on camber and I was at stock height as well so I guess it's not too rare.

Roybatty
10-13-2011, 10:38 AM
I'd personally go with Maximal's camber arms with the heavy duty ends: Suspension - AWD Adjustable Control Arms - Maximal Performance (http://www.maximalperformance.com/store/suspension/awd-adjustable-control-arms/prod_63.html)

FWIW, my VR4 was barely within spec on camber and I was at stock height as well so I guess it's not too rare.

Always something with these cars! I like the heavy duty ends. Okay will add it to the spring to do list...do the mod then the alignment to avoid this>>>
http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae349/Stealth2turbo/Stealth/Align101211.jpg

Thanks.

DocWalt
10-13-2011, 11:10 AM
I'd get them to aim for at least -1 degree camber on the front, and maybe -0.5 degree on the back. Those settings seemed to work well for my VR-4 in DD duties. Spirited driving requires more camber.

Chris@Rvengeperformance
10-13-2011, 02:10 PM
a little negative camber never hurt anyone, as long as you can get each axle set to have about equal camber with its wheel partner and keep it around 1.25 or below negative you'll be fine.

Personally I'd stick with the stock rear arms as long as you can. I have aftermarket arms and I don't care what kind you get, rod ends wear a lot faster than stock ball joints or bushings.

Rod ends without using dust shields are made for race cars that get taken apart very often.

Roybatty
10-14-2011, 11:52 AM
a little negative camber never hurt anyone, as long as you can get each axle set to have about equal camber with its wheel partner and keep it around 1.25 or below negative you'll be fine.

Personally I'd stick with the stock rear arms as long as you can. I have aftermarket arms and I don't care what kind you get, rod ends wear a lot faster than stock ball joints or bushings.

Rod ends without using dust shields are made for race cars that get taken apart very often.

I found this in the manual. I will check it out this weekend>>http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae349/Stealth2turbo/Stealth/AWDRWC.jpg