J. Fast
09-20-2011, 04:03 AM
Track Method,
It can be done guys. After you pull all the bolts on the trans, shifter, and the detents, set the trans on the endcover. Smack it and break the seals and pull the bellhousing, VCU, ring, and pinon. Next, pull the midcase and the shift fork roll pin for 1/2. Once you pull the pin, drive the 1/2 fork rod out of the endcover while it's still in the fork guide. Once the rod slides out, pull the fork off the hub/slider. The 1/2 shaft can then be pulled out of the endcover without pulling the endcase plug or changing the preload in the endcover.
Pull the snap ring blocking 1/2 on the shaft and use a 3 jaw gear puller to yank 1st gear making sure to hook atleast 2 teeth with each foot. The inner bearing races will come right out. Next grab 2nd Gear the same way and the hub slider will come with it. (Two grabs and both 1st and 2nd gears, the hub/slder, and sychros/etc are out).
Replace the blocking rings, synchros, and etc for 1st and 2nd gear and coat the replacements with some 500 grit valve lapping compound. Set the hub/slider on a flat surface with the keys and springs removed and stack a gear on it so it will spin freely. Take the 500 grit valve coated synchro parts and spin them back and forth in their respected race (they'll lock on the blocker). Keep doing it till they interface without resonating and don't feel like sand paper.
Once the grit sound is gone when spinning the synchros, clean the lapping compond off everything with some Mobil 1 75-90 fully synthetic or OEM GL-4 trans fluid and a toothbrush. When clean, stack the assembly in rebuild order.
Grab a set of 16" channel locks and a torch (you can use Map gas but it will take about 10 mins to heat everything up, so I use cetylene). Grab the hub/slider and the inner races with the channy's and take a cetylene torch to the 1/2/ hub and inner bearing races and heat them up and drop them in the reverse order you pulled them in. Make sure to keep the torch moving so you don't get hotspots or any funny warping on the parts and drop them when they get nice and toasty. Once they drop into place douse them in Mobil 1 75 weight or OEM GL-4 and spin the gears and bearings till they are fully cooled. If you happen to not be able to get a race or the hub set you can reheat the race or hub while it's still on the shaft (do not heat the hub slider with the keys, springs, and balls in place if you're using the torch method).
If you don't have a torch, you can use an air hammer to fully drive the race or hub in, or you can use a deadblow hammer and some various diameter galvanized gas pipe. You could also use a press, or use the tools specified in the rebuild manual.
Anyway, reset the shift fork, 1/2 shaft, shift rod, and roll pin. Put the case back together and torque all the bolts and check the preloads.
If everything is good, pull it apart again, clean up the trans seal areas with denatured alcohol and chase the threads. Reseal it once it's back together with some Honda bond.
It sounds like a lot but I can actually do this in about 1 hr in an oil drip pan with basic hand tools. Literally, if you jacked a gear at the track, you could fully repair a couple of gears and R&R the trans in 3-4 hrs and back to racing.
It can be done guys. After you pull all the bolts on the trans, shifter, and the detents, set the trans on the endcover. Smack it and break the seals and pull the bellhousing, VCU, ring, and pinon. Next, pull the midcase and the shift fork roll pin for 1/2. Once you pull the pin, drive the 1/2 fork rod out of the endcover while it's still in the fork guide. Once the rod slides out, pull the fork off the hub/slider. The 1/2 shaft can then be pulled out of the endcover without pulling the endcase plug or changing the preload in the endcover.
Pull the snap ring blocking 1/2 on the shaft and use a 3 jaw gear puller to yank 1st gear making sure to hook atleast 2 teeth with each foot. The inner bearing races will come right out. Next grab 2nd Gear the same way and the hub slider will come with it. (Two grabs and both 1st and 2nd gears, the hub/slder, and sychros/etc are out).
Replace the blocking rings, synchros, and etc for 1st and 2nd gear and coat the replacements with some 500 grit valve lapping compound. Set the hub/slider on a flat surface with the keys and springs removed and stack a gear on it so it will spin freely. Take the 500 grit valve coated synchro parts and spin them back and forth in their respected race (they'll lock on the blocker). Keep doing it till they interface without resonating and don't feel like sand paper.
Once the grit sound is gone when spinning the synchros, clean the lapping compond off everything with some Mobil 1 75-90 fully synthetic or OEM GL-4 trans fluid and a toothbrush. When clean, stack the assembly in rebuild order.
Grab a set of 16" channel locks and a torch (you can use Map gas but it will take about 10 mins to heat everything up, so I use cetylene). Grab the hub/slider and the inner races with the channy's and take a cetylene torch to the 1/2/ hub and inner bearing races and heat them up and drop them in the reverse order you pulled them in. Make sure to keep the torch moving so you don't get hotspots or any funny warping on the parts and drop them when they get nice and toasty. Once they drop into place douse them in Mobil 1 75 weight or OEM GL-4 and spin the gears and bearings till they are fully cooled. If you happen to not be able to get a race or the hub set you can reheat the race or hub while it's still on the shaft (do not heat the hub slider with the keys, springs, and balls in place if you're using the torch method).
If you don't have a torch, you can use an air hammer to fully drive the race or hub in, or you can use a deadblow hammer and some various diameter galvanized gas pipe. You could also use a press, or use the tools specified in the rebuild manual.
Anyway, reset the shift fork, 1/2 shaft, shift rod, and roll pin. Put the case back together and torque all the bolts and check the preloads.
If everything is good, pull it apart again, clean up the trans seal areas with denatured alcohol and chase the threads. Reseal it once it's back together with some Honda bond.
It sounds like a lot but I can actually do this in about 1 hr in an oil drip pan with basic hand tools. Literally, if you jacked a gear at the track, you could fully repair a couple of gears and R&R the trans in 3-4 hrs and back to racing.