Rebuilding or replacing hub wheel bearing assembly's, front and rear

[J. Fast]

Some tips on taking this task on in the future would be much appreciated. When I was rebuilding the calipers and working the bugs out of the braking system last week I noticed the hubs are starting to collect surface rust at the collar the rotors slide into so figured I'll do them when time allows. Not that there's any problems with them currently but they're 17 yrs old.

Anyone know the mitsu parts numbers for the fronts and rears. Can you buy just the bearings or does the whole thing come together?

OEM bearings are KOYO? Timken okay to use, or same same?

Part numbers and tips for either full replacement or rebuilds with new bearings would be appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.

[92pearltt]

Get the full replacements you can get them from cherry hill for pretty cheap. Try that candle trick that I told you about, and your probably going to need heat to get the nuts off the hub studs. Other than that its pretty straight forward.

[J. Fast]

Where do I score one of those MB990767 wrenches or any of the wrenches depicted in the service manual in TSB 26-7? I've always just wedged a prybar between a couple of studs and don't want to risk tearing up the new threads. Any tips or a place to snag a stud wrench? Hrmm, never checked the endplay before. Always just removed the cotter pins and castles and then torqued them to spec. Apparently theres a spec for the endplay and you keep torquing till you get to it or you have to ditch the bearings?

Done lots of R&R on DSM ans 3/S trans and have never once checked the endplay. Damn, it's right there in the manual. Guess I got lucky? Think that endplay out of spec can cause high speed wobble?

[OhioSpyderman]

I've only done the rear bearings and it wasn't too tough :)

The inner's can be done with minimal tools, the outers require a press to get them off and on.

I didn't have much trouble breaking the hub bolts loose, just some PBBlaster and a breaker bar.

You'll know if they're on there way out as they "sing" quite loudly the worse they get....

Good Luck!

Bob.

[IPD]

on awd? the fronts are an assembly & bolt in no sweat.

[J. Fast]

I've only done the rear bearings and it wasn't too tough :)

The inner's can be done with minimal tools, the outers require a press to get them off and on.

I didn't have much trouble breaking the hub bolts loose, just some PBBlaster and a breaker bar.

You'll know if they're on there way out as they "sing" quite loudly the worse they get....

Good Luck!

Bob.

They definitely aren't singing yet but I have a hint of a shimmy between 55-65. I was thinking its the control arms or a bearing with too much endplay. Definitely not drivetrain or brake/tire related. Everything is balanced.

So there's two sets of bearings for the rear Bob? Any chance you know the part #'s for those?



on awd? the fronts are an assembly & bolt in no sweat.

What's the price for two front replacement assembly vs a bearings? Can you buy just the bearings or are they a discontinued part #? Can I use an alternate bearing?

I can't just go out and sink hundreds of dollars when I want to anymore. Money's tight... saving for another house.

[UTRacerX9]

I have no idea what a front bearing only costs, but a few years ago, the whole assembly ran about $75 for one.

[IPD]

you should be able to find front hub assemblies for ~$100 each. varies a bit on who you go with. 3sx is still selling them for $115, so i'm sure you shouldn't have to pay more than that.

if you have a slight shimmy, you might check your tie rod ends while you're at it.

[OhioSpyderman]

I got mine at RockAuto.com, inners were ~$12 each (BECK/ARNLEY Part # 051396), outers were ~$15 each (BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0513993).

Hope that helps :)

Bob.

[green-lantern]

on awd? the fronts are an assembly & bolt in no sweat.

This


What's the price for two front replacement assembly vs a bearings? Can you buy just the bearings or are they a discontinued part #? Can I use an alternate bearing?

I can't just go out and sink hundreds of dollars when I want to anymore. Money's tight... saving for another house.

When I've pressed them apart before the race part was stuck anyway so I had to return the bearings to auto zone. To be honest it looked like the race was part of the hub to me anyway. At the time 3sx had them the cheapest so I got the whole hub and it's a damn breeze to change. It was worth getting the hub to me, time is money.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Hub bearing assembly with new studs is about 70 from cherry hill.

Allow some extra time. Mine rust welded themselves to the knuckle. Bolts came out fine, but I had to use air chisel to seperate hub from knuckle. Took several hours. Very annoying.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[J. Fast]

You chisel on the car or off? 2hrs... damn that sounds like a pain , I bet mine are rust welded too :(.

I can see myself swearing IPD dead. "piece of cake". LOL, here's Forest two hours later... dnnnnntttt, ddnnntttttt, dntttttttt, 'bang' 'bang' 'bang', dddddnnnntttt. haha.

So a few things to add to the list:

Air hammer with point chisel, 'check'
Birthday candles for the party, 'check'
Headphones and beer, 'check'

[Frostedbutts]

Gimme a call when you're gonna do it J, I can come by and hit shit with a hammer if you need some help.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

You chisel on the car or off? 2hrs... damn that sounds like a pain , I bet mine are rust welded too :(.

I can see myself swearing IPD dead. "piece of cake". LOL, here's Forest two hours later... dnnnnntttt, ddnnntttttt, dntttttttt, 'bang' 'bang' 'bang', dddddnnnntttt. haha.

So a few things to add to the list:

Air hammer with point chisel, 'check'
Birthday candles for the party, 'check'
Headphones and beer, 'check'

lol, yeah on the car. The hub flange can get stuck to the knuckle and you gotta work your whole way around it chiseling away without messing up the hub. First time I used a manual hammer, but 2nd time I used an air hammer. Was a lot faster, but damn you better use ear plugs.

I don't think it happens that often, my car was from NY.

[IPD]

seriously, if you think the fronts are difficult; don't even TRY to press-fit the rears by yourself.

[vr4gto]

Just about to do my driver side hub. Bought it from Cherry Hill, $99.85 shipped. Part #MR223993

[stealthee]

When I've pressed them apart before the race part was stuck anyway so I had to return the bearings to auto zone. To be honest it looked like the race was part of the hub to me anyway. At the time 3sx had them the cheapest so I got the whole hub and it's a damn breeze to change. It was worth getting the hub to me, time is money.

Even on FWD's that are meant to be pressed in/out the race gets stuck every freaking time. I've done bearings a few times over the years and every time the race got stuck. Last time I needed bearings I just took the whole hub to a machine shop with new bearings and paid them to do the job for me so I didn't have to deal with the bullshit.

[Hans@GZP]

Just cut the race off with a cut off wheel. Or use an air hammer with a chisel bit. For the rear bearings on an awd car, I just use an air hammer to get the old bearing and abs hub off. I don't even use a press :)