Changed VSS and now running on 4 of 6 cylinders

[Fletch]

Hello everyone,

Last weekend I swapped out my VSS, completed Sunday night.
Buttoned it all up Friday/Saturday. Started it and it ran rough...

Checked for Vacuum leaks, found one. The tab on the TB was pointing up instead of to the firewall. Sprayed with copper gasket and reassembled correctly. Vacuum leak was gone. Still rough idle.

Checked spark plugs, brand new because of the VSS swap. 3 and 6 look like they never fired and 3 was 'wet'
Checked spark, nothing from 3 + 6 coil. Swapped coil with another that was producing spark, 3+6 still not sparking but the one that was trying to spark them was sparking on the other cylinders.
Came on here and chatted with Coop for a while, last night and today.

removed the PTU and I am testing it right now, following:
Stealth 316 - Power Transistor Unit (http://www.stealth316.com/2-pwrtransunit.htm)

Now when I test without voltage I get 46K ohm resistance. Apply voltage and test and I get -2.72 M Ohms. Is this because the voltage is applied and opening the transistor?

Thank you in advance for you help.

[Steve '92ES]

Double check your Cam sensor, make sure it's plugged in tight and give the wires a good shake.
The wires can become brittle with age and break. Also make sure you didn't disturb the reluctor ring (the "ninja star thingie") while you were in there, especially if you took the cams out.

[Fletch]

Appreciate that, just read a posting that said that the 3 and 6 are off when the cam sensor is off. MAybe I have incorrect timing O.O Checking again in a bit

[RealMcCoy]

Appreciate that, just read a posting that said that the 3 and 6 are off when the cam sensor is off. MAybe I have incorrect timing O.O Checking again in a bit

If the crank and cam sensors are out of phase, the ECU will get confused and start dropping coils... definitely worth checking out.

[Fletch]

O.k. Timing is dead on. Cams and crank are at the marks.

Looking up how to test if the Cam PS is faulty.

[Fletch]

Tested the harness.

Pin 3 is getting 11.6vdc
Touched pin 2 and the other lead was touching the ground on the firewall, no continuity.
Pin 1 no voltage.

So where does this connect on the other side of the engine bay, once it goes through the injector tunnel?

[RealMcCoy]

The following applies to both the cam and crank sensors: The red wire should carry 12v to the sensor, the black wire should be grounded, (you should be able to touch a simple test lamp between the red and black wires and have it light up) the blue wire with some variant of a stripe should carry the 5v reference from the ECU. You should see 5V on that circuit with the connector unplugged from the sensor with the key on, as well as with the sensor plugged in and the signal wheel is not within the sensor. When the signal wheel passes through the sensor, it should pull the 5V reference to ground. You should be able to see this with your meter while turning the motor over by hand.

Did you verify the crank gear signal wheel didn't get damaged? and is still lined up? the notch on the wheel should line up with the notch on the gear:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k252/lnmccoy/gear2.jpg

[Fletch]

Mine does not look like that one
the blade is a little forward on mine. When I took it off it is the same position that it is in now.

[Fletch]

Here is a quick shot of mine.

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff365/btfletcher/Capture.jpg?t=1310955489

[Fletch]

so the timing is two teeth off?

[RealMcCoy]

Mine does not look like that one
the blade is a little forward on mine. When I took it off it is the same position that it is in now.

If the mark on the blade doesn't line up with the mark on the gear, you basically give yourself a choice of which problem you want... You can time it on the signal wheel mark and have the ECU happy, but in reality be out of time, or you can line it up on the gear and have the engine properly timed, but the ECU thinks it's out of time.(giving you the problem you have now..)

[RealMcCoy]

Here is a quick shot of mine.

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff365/btfletcher/Capture.jpg?t=1310955489

You just found your problem...

[Fletch]

Just removed the sprocket. The metal disk is not attached to the cog, do I need to order a new one or are their pins that I can use to hold it on there?

[RealMcCoy]

Just removed the sprocket. The metal disk is not attached to the cog, do I need to order a new one or are their pins that I can use to hold it on there?

It was originally retained with small roll pins, if they've broken off they can be pretty rough to remove... I've fixed them before by getting the assembly clamped in position, and drilling new holes for replacement roll pins.

[Fletch]

Just looking at my crank plate, it is not perfectly flat. The fins are a little beveled. Ever see this?
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff365/btfletcher/Capture-1.jpg

[RealMcCoy]

Just looking at my crank plate, it is not perfectly flat. The fins are a little beveled. Ever see this?


It happens, they're pretty easy to straighten out..

[n2nsanity]

that goes through a pretty small gap in the crank sensor
how's that looking?

[Fletch]

I will need to check that out tomorrow. Tonight this is done. I just washed up, getting ready for tomorrows adventures :D

[Fletch]

It happens, they're pretty easy to straighten out..

press em flat in my vise I assume :D

[Fletch]

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/superbovine/2011-06-16_193144_30002.jpg

The red ones just pin together from what I see.

[Fletch]

Ok timing is dead on. Started her up, cylinder 3 is firing, 6 I cannot confirm.

Rough idle, was able to drive it about 30 feet before I knew to pull it back in the garage. There must be something like a vacuum line someplace that I missed. I checked all that I touched in my past 2 weekends.

Any further guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[Fletch]

Anyone in the Chicago area?

[Fletch]

Cleaned and tested the ISC/IAC. Ohm'd out 40.3 on all 4 coils.

[shmoo]

marsha marsha marsha! i'm learning in here.

good luck man, you're slightly over my head otherwise, i'd try to shed light.

_isiah

[Fletch]

Ok, timing was off. Reset (again, held properly this time) she drives.

The issue that I have now is that if I give it heavy gas, the car studders. If I feather the throttle, 1st and 2nd, about 3000 rpm I get no studder. I

I am thinking that this is bad wires. I will ohm them out tonight, and replace and let ya'll know.

Thanks everyone in this post for your help, love this site.

[Emilie@GZP]

probably bent valves.

[Fletch]

Ok,
Compression check, done. Within 9 of each other. No valves bent.

New Fuel Filter. no change.

Adding a little oil to my engine this morning, saw a spark from the bottom of coil pack 1, at first I was angered then I realized, that is my problem... WOO HOOOO! Wait, I should not get too excited until I replace it right.

So this morning I am looking for a coil pack online.

[Fletch]

Update. After replacing the Coil pack, all is back to normal.

<3 my car again.