Routing vacuum lines.

[blindmist]

So how do most of you people run a vac line to the a pillar without it getting smashed in the door?

[DocWalt]

Up through the hole in the dash and behind the A-pillar. There's enough space.

[Polygon]

Yep, it's easy.

On a related note. What do you guys do with that damn hard booster line next to the Y-pipe besides delete it?

[DocWalt]

Mine's still there. I like the feel of the clutch, I don't want to change it.

[Polygon]

Neither do I. I want to keep it, I just don't want to see it. It's such a stupid way to route that. I would imagine that it doesn't have to be a hard line?

[DocWalt]

It doesn't need to be, but I'd imagine a rubber line that long would start wanting to collapse.

[Polygon]

That's my only concern. I guess I could easily just get some hard line in that size and just bend it up and route it out of sight.

[DocWalt]

I was going to suggest that next :p Make sure you flare the ends if you do that.

There's a trick to not allow rubber lines to collapse, if you wanted to try that. Just shove a spring of appropriate size in to the locations where it's going to bend. It will allow it to flex, but not collapse.

[MaxClass]

Filling it with sand would also prevent collapse but then that's not really a viable solution is it.

There is hose available that is very thick walled such that you probably could not collapse it with a pair of channel locks. Ask at a good parts store and show them what the original is. I found something like that to replace the clutch vacuum line on my Fiances '93. The line has a sort of cloth wrapping around it but I don't know what kind it is. Also make sure you have the one way valve inside unless you have an NA engine. Make sure the line has the same ID as the original.

Cut the old valve out carefully so you don't damage it.

You can insert the old valve inside of a new rubber hose by finding a bold that fits inside of the hose [used to push the valve back inside] and make a mark on the bolt for depth control. Then put the end of the hose in some boiling water for several seconds until it is soft then insert the valve and press it flush then stand the bolt upright and press the hose down onto the bolt and press the valve in [probably about 1 1/2 inches]. Make sure you get the valve in the right way or it will not work. Once in just run some cold water on the hose to harden it back up. Works like a charm.

[Polygon]

Some clever ideas. About the check valve, which section of line is it? I just want to replace the hard section that runs along the side of the Y-pipe. At least for now.

[blindmist]

I completely got rid of my clutch booster and didn't feel a difference in my clutch at all. Maybe its just my all powerful left leg.

[DocWalt]

Why would you dump sand in? The spring idea works perfectly fine, lol.

The check valve should be in the hose that's right off of the back of the plenum.

[enigma]

i've used braided servo piping on mine, works fine!

[95vr-4]

the line that runs over past the ypipe and then down to the vac reservoir under the car is just for clutch assist for startups when the car isnt running or in boost. But whens the last time you pushed your clutch in while you were in boost? Im pretty sure on this, I took mine out and couldnt tell a difference in clutch feel. I cut it off by where it tees by the brake master cylinder.

Ryan

[i3igpete]

^ what he said

when the engine is operating, there is enough vacuum built up in the lines themselves that you can still use the brake and clutch for a few seconds at full throttle. it's purely for easy clutch/brake operation when the car is off.

[blindmist]

I got a strong leg. I already made the mistake once by hitting the brakes and letting off at 110MPH when my y-pipe blew off. I had to bring that bitch to a stop with no assist!

[x2xtreme360]

Mine's still there. I like the feel of the clutch, I don't want to change it.

That line is only used to keep vacuum in the vacuum tank so it's no hard to push it down next time you start your car.

The actual booster is what makes the difference while driving, and that doesn't get deleted.

I deleted my tank a long time ago and the pedal feels no different... even when the car is off.

[blindmist]

You know, you could just unhook it, plug the line, and drive it. If you think it makes a difference, hook it back up, if not, rip that shit out.

[DocWalt]

That line is only used to keep vacuum in the vacuum tank so it's no hard to push it down next time you start your car.

The actual booster is what makes the difference while driving, and that doesn't get deleted.

I deleted my tank a long time ago and the pedal feels no different... even when the car is off.

I can pump my clutch pedal twice with full assist after I shut the car off and wait a few days... I like that :p

[Polygon]

Hmm.... A lot of good info. I'm going to plug the line and see. If it doesn't pose a problem I'm just going to delete it. I'm all for getting rid of superfluous crap.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

That line is only used to keep vacuum in the vacuum tank so it's no hard to push it down next time you start your car.

The actual booster is what makes the difference while driving, and that doesn't get deleted.

I deleted my tank a long time ago and the pedal feels no different... even when the car is off.


This.

[VR4]

And after you rip out the tank bypass the clutch switch so you don't need to depress it to start

[ntcmpjg]

I put a soft line in my TT never had a problem with it

[n2nsanity]

you cant route it through the firewall?

[x2xtreme360]

And after you rip out the tank bypass the clutch switch so you don't need to depress it to start

Meh... not something I would openly recommend. Not a safe thing to do, especially if you have a remote starter.


you cant route it through the firewall?

Route what through the firewall? The vacuum tank?

[blindmist]

Meh... not something I would openly recommend. Not a safe thing to do, especially if you have a remote starter.



I did this a long time ago. But for the normal person, you are right, I wouldn't recommend. The remote starter bypasses the clutch switch anyways. The key is to never leave it in gear.

[x2xtreme360]

I did this a long time ago. But for the normal person, you are right, I wouldn't recommend. The remote starter bypasses the clutch switch anyways. The key is to never leave it in gear.

Yes, people do this... but they make remote starters for MTX with their own safety switches. Some of them even go off the gear select if the ECU is capable of knowing what gear the MTX is in. They are ALWAYS tied into the parking brake so it simply wont start without it being engaged, and they will also have a secondary way of knowing that the car isn't going to move if the starter is engaged.

But, how many people install ATX starters in their MTX car without taking the proper precautions? Probably a lot of people...

[blindmist]

Yes, people do this... but they make remote starters for MTX with their own safety switches. Some of them even go off the gear select if the ECU is capable of knowing what gear the MTX is in. They are ALWAYS tied into the parking brake so it simply wont start without it being engaged, and they will also have a secondary way of knowing that the car isn't going to move if the starter is engaged.

But, how many people install ATX starters in their MTX car without taking the proper precautions? Probably a lot of people...

Natural Selection.

[Polygon]

Route what through the firewall? The vacuum tank?

I'm guessing he was referring to the OP, which if he is, that's what we were saying to begin with.

As for the bypass switch, there has never been one on my other car. As a matter of fact, Chrysler didn't use them on any LeBarons/Daytonas/etc...... I've never had problems. Then again, I also have never installed a remote starter and never will.

[jba3]

I completely got rid of my clutch booster and didn't feel a difference in my clutch at all. Maybe its just my all powerful left leg.

Same here. No differences. Though, there is something on Stealth316.com about running it around the side of the battery, instead of in the horrendous stock routing. But I prefer to ditch it.


And after you rip out the tank bypass the clutch switch so you don't need to depress it to start


I'm guessing he was referring to the OP, which if he is, that's what we were saying to begin with.

As for the bypass switch, there has never been one on my other car. As a matter of fact, Chrysler didn't use them on any LeBarons/Daytonas/etc...... I've never had problems. Then again, I also have never installed a remote starter and never will.

Older cars don't have them, and many euro and japan spec cars don't either. Somehow the nuckfutters in the US who are lawsuit happy did dumb stuff like starting their car in gear and hitting things, and thus, the moronic-moment-preventing clutch switch was born.

"Bypassing" is as simple as unplugging a tiny connector. "Re-enabling" is as simple as reconnecting the connector.

There's a group of people who say that pushing the clutch in before starting the car causes extra wear and tear. I've had mine disabled ever since I got the car.

[x2xtreme360]

Same here. No differences. Though, there is something on Stealth316.com about running it around the side of the battery, instead of in the horrendous stock routing. But I prefer to ditch it.

Not sure here, but I think people are mixing up the booster and the vac reservoir. Removal of the reservoir will cause zero differences in clutch pedal stiffness with the car on.

The clutch booster works like the brake booster. It uses engine vacuum and a diaphragm in the booster to assist in clutch pedal stiffness. I wouldn't remove the booster myself... but some probably have with no ill effects.

[DocWalt]

Removing the booster makes a marginal difference. I'm honestly not sure why they bothered, they could have just sized the cylinders differently...

[x2xtreme360]

Removing the booster makes a marginal difference. I'm honestly not sure why they bothered, they could have just sized the cylinders differently...

I figured this much... otherwise is wouldn't be there.

I probably could find out by simply disconnecting the hose from the plenum, but I never have.

[DocWalt]

just pump the clutch when the car is off. It gets noticeably stiffer, but I don't really have any problems with it. I guess for the every day person that expects luxury mushiness, it would be annoying.

[blindmist]

My new clutch is FUCKING STIFF. Maybe its just that I havent driven a stick in a year. lol. either way, its gunna take some getting used to.

[KeithMac]

If you have an upgraded pressure plate it will be a lot harder to push (some are worse than others).

As for pressing the clutch pedal to start, JDM and UK spec cars never had this from the factory. I personally don`t like the idea of pre-loading the crank thrust bearings with no oil pressure while starting but each to their own.

I ditched the clutch vac resovoir, didn`t notice any difference.

[blindmist]

BTW. It was a bitch to get my vac line down that "hole" you guys mention. Maybe I just have less room than you guys, but it took a solid 15 minutes of poking around and just standing there waiting for it to finally clear something. Finally got it through and started to use it and electrical tape to pull the rest of my stuff through.

[jba3]

Not sure here, but I think people are mixing up the booster and the vac reservoir. Removal of the reservoir will cause zero differences in clutch pedal stiffness with the car on.

The clutch booster works like the brake booster. It uses engine vacuum and a diaphragm in the booster to assist in clutch pedal stiffness. I wouldn't remove the booster myself... but some probably have with no ill effects.

I did this one, along with a bunch of other deletes:

http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/3441/beforecm8.png
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/4507/afterxi9.png
(Thanks Pete!)

Now I'm wondering if I deleted the booster or not. I didn't realize the reservoir and booster aren't a single system.

[blindmist]

You rid of the reservoir.

[i3igpete]

i love my ms paint art
:laugh: