PICS What can i remove from my engine bay???

[Trab]

Hey guys i know it looks like a big pile of shit right now, but im in the process of removing the cruise control box and whatnot. What else do you guys see in these pics that i can remove. Im really debating on removing the AC or not. It hasnt worked in over 3 years due to not being charged and i really havent missed it. But you guys tell me what you think and if you see anything. thanks

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-15_16-49-11_78.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-15_16-48-55_170.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-15_16-48-14_632.jpg

[UTRacerX9]

I'd upgrade your fuel lines and filter while you have such easy access, especially if you are building a high hp car. Other than that, not much else I can see, looks like you've already removed the charcoal cannister and that kind of thing.

[Hard AttacK]

AC and ABS would be first on my to go list. :)

[Trab]

I would love to do the ABS but i would really like somebody to help me out that has done it before, i dunno were to find the proportion valve or the lines i would need.

[Austin@STM]

Everything can be removed, the question is what do you want left, and go from there.

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/z/austin_stealth/9_15_10_engine_bay.jpg
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/z/austin_stealth/austin_8_8_10_dyno2.jpg

[Trab]

I know I wanna keep heat but that's about it... Where did you put you fuse box??? Where the abs was???

[Trab]

I'd upgrade your fuel lines and filter while you have such easy access, especially if you are building a high hp car. Other than that, not much else I can see, looks like you've already removed the charcoal cannister and that kind of thing.

What would you suggest? Is there a kit i could buy somewhere? Thanks

[UTRacerX9]

I made mine with help from Jeff Lucius' site, and put it together myself. Was still kinda pricey, especially after buying the AN fittings and new fuel filter. Check out Jeff's site, he's got most of the part numbers listed for this.

[Trab]

Yeah i just checked that out. I think im going to leave them alone for right now this car shouldent be making to much power. I have a new stock fuel filter on it right now anyways. And the 3sx fuel rail loop. Car is going to be on pump gas with 16g's. So probably wont see over 18-19psi...

[Trab]

AC and ABS would be first on my to go list. :)

Im getting the small belt tommorow and removing the AC for sure.

[Austin@STM]

I know I wanna keep heat but that's about it... Where did you put you fuse box??? Where the abs was???

I moved the fuse box to my interior, right below the fuse box thats already in there. I removed all the extra wiring while i was in there and got about 40 pounds of wire out of the harness. Its a bit of work but looks great without it.

Just something to think about. Thats about where it ended up after i cleaned up the wiring and finished it all.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs017.snc3/12470_1288522541445_1481643354_30796850_347621_n.j pg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs441.ash1/24329_1407772442618_1481643354_31069178_6763468_n. jpg

[GTO Assassin]

Whoa! Coloured spaghetti! :D

Scotty

[arthur92710]

When I read the title I was going to post, the engine, looks like you beat me to it. ;)
What about the wiper fluid and power steering? I read that ac was going out and am assuming that this wont be a luxury car.

[Trab]

I moved the fuse box to my interior, right below the fuse box thats already in there. I removed all the extra wiring while i was in there and got about 40 pounds of wire out of the harness. Its a bit of work but looks great without it.

Just something to think about. Thats about where it ended up after i cleaned up the wiring and finished it all.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs017.snc3/12470_1288522541445_1481643354_30796850_347621_n.j pg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs441.ash1/24329_1407772442618_1481643354_31069178_6763468_n. jpg

Holy crap, that looks like a major headache. WISH i could do something like that. Going to look into that when im in there getting out the AC. I had a question, when you removed your ac how did you go about routing your belt? I saw a couple different ways just wondering how you did yours... thanks

[MaxClass]

I live in Las Vegas, can’t do without the A/C here. The A/C does not take any power unless it is turned on. If turned off it just acts like an idler pulley.

Don’t dump the power steering. You can’t steer without it.

Personally, I would start with the DIRT. Windex everything and let it set for about five minutes then wipe it out with paper towels [Viva only. You can't destroy them]. That will show you where you need the heavy stuff. Before you start with something to strong check the label. I bought some degreaser then noticed that it says not to use it on painted surfaces. Amazingly PB Blaster will remove a multitude of gunk. Just spray it on a paper towel and it wipes away a lot of junk. Once clean final it up with Windex to remove any oily film or it will just attract more DIRT. Might not hurt to Wax or Polish all the frame members while you have access to help keep them clean or easier to clean.

[Austin@STM]

There is actually an oem belt for cars without ac. It just runs to the opposite side of the tensioner. You could make it work, but I just pushed the pulley tight with the belt on and tighened it. Haven't had a squeek yet. I will have to look up the part number tomorrow if I can and let you know.

-Austin@STM

[MaxClass]

You probably won't get a squeak out of just running the alternator as the belt does not have to be that tight. The A/C pump puts quite a load on the system when it is turned on. You will notice an RPM increase when you turn the A/C on to compensate for this extra load. The alternator also puts a load that varies depending on the electrical load placed on it but not nearly as high as the A/C does.

[Trab]

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/modified-accessory-belt-routing-complete-pics-354474/

What do you guys think of this method??? Somebody later in the post says something about if the belt is to tight it is going to ruine the #1 cylinder bearings...

[B-Man]

I used a timing belt tensioner pulley for an a/c delete tensioner.

[Atrosity]

God damn austin, you removed so much shit but your engine is one the cleanest ones I have ever seen for a 3S. What spark plug wires are those?

[B-Man]

COP would allow you to move stuff around.

[B-Man]

and if you really wanna go light weight, you can do a manual steering rack.

[Austin@STM]

NGK 8mm wires, they fit really well compared to a lot of wires we have used on DSM's

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/a/ngk_3000gt_spark_plug_wires.jpg

[Trab]

I used a timing belt tensioner pulley for an a/c delete tensioner.

So did you just bolt the pulley on with a washer behind it and thats it? Id rather do it the way yours is done but i cant find a good writeup on this way. Like which belt would i need, do i need a bracket to hold the timing pulley used???

[B-Man]

Replace the idler pulley with the timing tensioner pulley. Put a few washers behind it. People on 3si say to use a 400 belt, but a 400 was too short for me.

[B-Man]

From Highboosted's post on 3si

*390 for routing straight to alternator, no other pullies, underdrive crank pulley will use 370.

*400 for routing using timing tensioner as idler, or reversing stock tensioner, underdrive crank pulley will use 390.

[i3igpete]

using the alternator and stock idler, no tensioner. you bolt in the alternator bracket on the side and then yank up on the alternator to get the top bolts.

http://www.3si.org/wiki/images/1/10/Picture955.jpg

[arthur92710]

Yea, ac is a relatively high load. At idle when I turn it on my rpms to to 1k

[Trab]

using the alternator and stock idler, no tensioner. you bolt in the alternator bracket on the side and then yank up on the alternator to get the top bolts.

http://www.3si.org/wiki/images/1/10/Picture955.jpg

What size belt is that? This looks like how i wanna go

[i3igpete]

looks like the part numbers are 410k6 or 6pk1040

[Trab]

Dang didnt see that u could read it. Nice pic... Anyways im gonna run by the auto store tonight and see if they have it.

[Trab]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-16_19-59-55_351.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-16_20-00-15_563.jpg

Finished yanking it out, if anybody see's something that i need to put back in let me know :D Thanks

[Trab]

Update guys, worked on it today and got ALOT of stuff done. At least it took a long time to do it all... I do have a question though guys, on the last pic. Do you all thing that is a decent way to have my oil cooler sit? I wasnt sure if it matter at all which way it was turned, didnt think it would. Also relocated the fuse box down below where the overfill tank goes, going to try and find a replacement overfill tank to replace the stocker with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-19_19-03-18_735.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-19_19-04-19_30.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-19_19-04-55_846.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-19_19-05-17_312.jpg

[jba3]

Yank that ABS! Get the parts from a non-abs NA or direct from mitsu. Takes maybe an hour to do. Cleans up the engine bay a lot. Cost is $50-$100, depending where you source the parts.

[Austin@STM]

Looks like things are coming along, its cleaning up for sure. I would recommend cleaning everything before you put the motor back in, while you have easy access to everything.

ABS is nice to get rid of, it gets rid of a lot of mess, I just bought Earls and Russell stainless lines and fittings and an OEM proportioning valve to delete mine.

[Trab]

Yeah i am going to use a wire brush on most of the surface, then primer it, then its getting painted a metallic black.

[Trab]

Looks like things are coming along, its cleaning up for sure. I would recommend cleaning everything before you put the motor back in, while you have easy access to everything.

ABS is nice to get rid of, it gets rid of a lot of mess, I just bought Earls and Russell stainless lines and fittings and an OEM proportioning valve to delete mine.

Yeah im thinking about holdin off on the ABS, wish i could drive one without it to see if i like it or not. I would love to get rd of the clutter but it looks like a lot of work to delete it and i might like the car better with it... O and thanks for the tip on the firewall, dunno if it was in this thread or not but i got me a long pair of needle nose plyers and yanked that stuff right out.

[jba3]

Yeah im thinking about holdin off on the ABS, wish i could drive one without it to see if i like it or not. I would love to get rd of the clutter but it looks like a lot of work to delete it and i might like the car better with it... O and thanks for the tip on the firewall, dunno if it was in this thread or not but i got me a long pair of needle nose plyers and yanked that stuff right out.

Pull your ABS fuse then drive it. If you like how it drives like that, the ABS is disabled, and that's how it'll feel with the ABS system removed. It also looks MUCH cleaner without ABS, and drops a good bit of weight (30 lbs, maybe?).

[Trab]

Ok well is it possible to take out while the engine is in? Because if thats the case i can wait till after i drop the engine in then try that out.

[jba3]

Ok well is it possible to take out while the engine is in? Because if thats the case i can wait till after i drop the engine in then try that out.

With the OEM style hardlines, it's hard, you probably would want to pull the rear turbo & manifold, but if you do the flexible SS lines, it's far easier and wouldn't need to pull the turbos. Just the battery and a couple quick, easy access things (assuming you have vac reduction done).

[Trab]

Looks like things are coming along, its cleaning up for sure. I would recommend cleaning everything before you put the motor back in, while you have easy access to everything.

ABS is nice to get rid of, it gets rid of a lot of mess, I just bought Earls and Russell stainless lines and fittings and an OEM proportioning valve to delete mine.

Wish you would put together a kit for the delete, bet you would sell a ton :D

[Austin@STM]

I can do that, the only hard part to find is the proportioning valve, besides that i know the length of all the lines and the fittings needed. we should have a kit together soon. I bought lines from 2 companies, we have goodridge make all our other lines here so im sure i could send them the specs and have them make a full matching set.

-Austin@STM

[jba3]

I can do that, the only hard part to find is the proportioning valve, besides that i know the length of all the lines and the fittings needed. we should have a kit together soon. I bought lines from 2 companies, we have goodridge make all our other lines here so im sure i could send them the specs and have them make a full matching set.

-Austin@STM

Mitsu was backordered but got one for me earlier this year.

[Trab]

I can do that, the only hard part to find is the proportioning valve, besides that i know the length of all the lines and the fittings needed. we should have a kit together soon. I bought lines from 2 companies, we have goodridge make all our other lines here so im sure i could send them the specs and have them make a full matching set.

-Austin@STM

Yeah i know i would buy one, just tell people to order that valve from mitsu is what i would do. That and the fuel line with filter set we talked about, i really think would sell good. Im still going to buy those fuel line/filter kits from you sometime, i just wanna make sure my engine is going to be good this time around before i put much more money into this car.

[Trab]

I can do that, the only hard part to find is the proportioning valve, besides that i know the length of all the lines and the fittings needed. we should have a kit together soon. I bought lines from 2 companies, we have goodridge make all our other lines here so im sure i could send them the specs and have them make a full matching set.

-Austin@STM

O and i want that back window / trunk setup you have. Looks badass with the bolts going around it.

[Austin@STM]

Yeah i know i would buy one, just tell people to order that valve from mitsu is what i would do. That and the fuel line with filter set we talked about, i really think would sell good. Im still going to buy those fuel line/filter kits from you sometime, i just wanna make sure my engine is going to be good this time around before i put much more money into this car.

I thought that valve wasnt available anymore, and thats why people dont do it. We are the biggest account for buying mitsu parts at our dealer, we sell a ton of OEM parts to DSM/Evo guys so we get a pretty good break on them. If that proportioning valve is available, then i can make a kit this week im sure. I will have to have the parts guy get a hold of Mitsu.

[B-Man]

Why not sell it with a preset wilwood prop valve?

[Trab]

Yeah the wilwood valve might be nice to, might even be cheaper to....

[Austin@STM]

OEM valves are available, i will figure out my lines and fittings again and have a kit price tonight!

-Austin@STM

[B-Man]

Sweet, I've been wanting to do this for a long time.

[Trab]

Badass i might have to get a kit before i put my engine back in...

[Austin@STM]

gonna check with goodridge tomorrow to see if i can get all the lines form them. Otherwise it will have to be like my kit 3 russell lines and one earls line. No big deal it will still look the same, just cost a little more that way.

[STLVR4]

Depending on price, I may be interested in purchasing this kit as well.

[Austin@STM]

Worst case if i have to buy the kit from seperate places, and piece it together will be $270 shipped. I went kind of fat on the numbers just to get a worst case, should be cheaper for it all.
I'll let you guys know what i find out more tomorrow.

-Austin@STM

[thor'svr4]

I do have a question though guys, on the last pic. Do you all thing that is a decent way to have my oil cooler sit? I wasnt sure if it matter at all which way it was turned, didnt think it would.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Trab123/2010-09-19_19-05-17_312.jpg

thats exactly how i mounted my B&M oil cooler. my only issue was that my B&M had an electric fan and thermostat built into it and i simply didnt have room for the fan. the fan would have been useless though because even after extremly hard driving im able to hold my hand on the oil cooler and it feels cooler than my FMIC. so unless cool oil is an issue you should be fine.

[11secondFWD]

I made it so I had one belt going from crank to alternator. Thats all I had on my FWD tt. Struggly first did it then I followed. And I think trevor did it too. It worked great. I used the napa belt.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/modified-accessory-belt-routing-complete-pics-354474/

[Trab]

I made it so I had one belt going from crank to alternator. Thats all I had on my FWD tt. Struggly first did it then I followed. And I think trevor did it too. It worked great. I used the napa belt.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/modified-accessory-belt-routing-complete-pics-354474/

Yeah i read that 100x, but then somebody said something about it being to tight and that it might throw off the crank somehow. Dunno if thats even possible but im gonna try to do it and use the tensioner somehow.

[11secondFWD]

Yeah i read that 100x, but then somebody said something about it being to tight and that it might throw off the crank somehow. Dunno if thats even possible but im gonna try to do it and use the tensioner somehow.

Cool. Yea I had no problems whatsover. I ran my car hard at the track, high speed/rpm highway racing, and daily drove it. I made over 400whp, went 11,s and the car was very reliable and never had a problem. I had it like that for 3 to 4 years. It is not too tight, because you get the right belt and still go according to proper belt tension. You don't over tighten the belt. The belt I got from napa was perfect. I did see the IPS a/c set up with the tensioner and it looks like a good way too. Good luck

[Trab]

Cool. Yea I had no problems whatsover. I ran my car hard at the track, high speed/rpm highway racing, and daily drove it. I made over 400whp, went 11,s and the car was very reliable and never had a problem. I had it like that for 3 to 4 years. It is not too tight, because you get the right belt and still go according to proper belt tension. You don't over tighten the belt. The belt I got from napa was perfect. I did see the IPS a/c set up with the tensioner and it looks like a good way too. Good luck

Yeah im sure its fine either way, if i dont like how this belt setup with the tensioner looks im gonna go struggly's way.

[Austin@STM]

Heard back from goodridge today, they can make all the lines no problem. They will all be plastic coated, braided stainless lines so they wont scratch or wear through anything on your car. Total regular price on the website will be about $245, but as an intro price on here i will start a sale for $220 shipped for everything to do an ABS delete.


-Austin@STM

[B-Man]

Is that for all stainless braided line and OEM non-ABS prop valve?

[Trab]

Are the line sgoing to look like the fuel lines on your site? Where do i send payment? Instuctions??? Thanks

[Austin@STM]

They are all stainless steel braided lines with a clear plastic coating on them. They are available in different color coatings, but it costs a little more i think. The lines that go to the calipers are one peice as well, which means less potential problems.

My car is a little different because i am running a 1g DSM master cylinder, and proportioning valve. I am running that prop valve because of the weight difference in my car, it seems to work really well.
The kit will come with the standard 3s non abs prop valve, and will fit the stock master cylinder.

sorry my cars a bit dirty right now, but it will give you an idea what it looks like.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs699.snc4/61951_1607946486844_1481643354_31589162_3320233_n. jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs353.ash2/63342_1607945926830_1481643354_31589160_1593356_n. jpg

-Austin@STM

[Trab]

Where do i pay? And are they going to include any instructions because im sure i can find a way to screw the install up...

[Austin@STM]

Paypal is sales@streettunedmotorsports.com send $220 and put 3sgto.org ABS Delete sale in the note.

It will include the 4 stainless lines in the engine bay, 2 to the front calipers from the prop valve, and the 2 from the prop valve to the master cylinder. The adaptor fittings to run the lines from the master cylinder/calipers/prop valve. OEM Mitsubishi non abs proportioning valve.

I wont be able to send them out until mid/end of next week at the soonest, the only thing im worried about taking to get is the proportioning valves sometimes mitsu parts take a couple days extra to get here. Once all the parts arrive i will put them together and send them out. I will make another post with a few pictures of how it all goes together. I will keep you guys updated as parts come in.

-Austin@STM

[Trab]

Ok sounds good, let us know when you have them ready to go.

[B-Man]

Are those pics with the engine in the car? Are the two 90* bends at the master cylinder the only hard lines?

[Austin@STM]

Are those pics with the engine in the car? Are the two 90* bends at the master cylinder the only hard lines?

Yes i took those pics yesterday, its just as i drive it, its that empty in there. Yes those are the only hard spot in the lines, and yes they stop very well. I slammed the brakes to avoid 5 deer in the road the other night and it stops great. I also have to get on the brakes pretty hard at the track, and this setup worked fine slowing me from 130mph.

-Austin@STM

[Austin@STM]

sale is up on the kits

http://www.3sgto.org/showthread.php?1390-***-New-Product-Release-Sale!-STM-ABS-Delete-Kits-225-Shipped-***&p=22178#post22178

-Austin@STM