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View Full Version : Engine 4-bolt 6G72 Stroker block and stock 4-bolt block



TurboSinceBirth
06-27-2011, 06:29 PM
I have a 4-bolt block already clearanced for a 6G74 crank. The cylinders were honed, mains align bored, the mains were all 0.015-0.018", and the rods were all 0.015-0.020". It's a 93mm bore. It has a total of 10 minutes of runtime on it. The reason I'm selling it is because the machine shop replaced the copper o-rings, the heads didn't seal, and I'm not going to risk it again replacing the copper if I can't guarantee it will seal. Ray said he can replace them and most any machine shop should be able to. I'm asking $300 plus shipping for the block. Crank, pistons, and rods NOT included so don't ask.

markoverclock
06-28-2011, 11:10 PM
think i have your 91.1 block sold, let show me some pics.

TurboSinceBirth
06-29-2011, 06:50 PM
think i have your 91.1 block sold, let show me some pics.

It's pending sale right now but I'll let you know if it falls through.

gs1000kat
06-30-2011, 09:59 AM
Hmmmm, might be interested. Looking to build a stroker.

markoverclock
07-01-2011, 01:47 AM
please send pics to markoverclock@hotmail.com

familyMAN
07-06-2011, 05:35 PM
still have the non-stroker block? shipping to AZ 85388?

markoverclock
07-06-2011, 06:12 PM
send me your phone number so i can sell that block of yours.

TurboSinceBirth
07-08-2011, 10:04 PM
send me your phone number so i can sell that block of yours.

PM sent.

TurboSinceBirth
07-13-2011, 08:24 PM
:bump:

TurboSinceBirth
07-25-2011, 11:37 PM
Anyone want a stock shortblock? I can sell one of those. All you need is bearings and rings.

TurboSinceBirth
07-29-2011, 08:39 PM
To the top...

TurboSinceBirth
08-03-2011, 06:39 PM
Price drop.

:bump:

gs1000kat
08-03-2011, 08:16 PM
Any idea what shipping to 45701 might be? Where are you located?

Also, is the short block 4 bolt?

TurboSinceBirth
08-04-2011, 07:49 PM
Any idea what shipping to 45701 might be? Where are you located?

Also, is the short block 4 bolt?

Because of the weight shipping was going to be about $100. Yes the 91.1mm bore stock block is a 4-bolt. I never wanted a 2-bolt and they won't work for a stroker anyways so that's why I've only bought 4-bolts.

TurboSinceBirth
08-16-2011, 06:55 PM
:bump: No solid interest.

TurboSinceBirth
08-20-2011, 12:05 AM
Auction link is in my sig for Chris Hill.

TurboSinceBirth
08-23-2011, 07:57 PM
:bump:

TurboSinceBirth
08-26-2011, 12:54 AM
Still here. Both blocks and auctions listed in sig.

TurboSinceBirth
09-01-2011, 06:24 PM
Stock 4-bolt block sold. Stroker block still available and price dropped.

TurboSinceBirth
09-10-2011, 04:00 PM
Stroker still available.

TurboSinceBirth
09-15-2011, 08:26 PM
:bump:

TurboSinceBirth
09-25-2011, 05:45 PM
Price drop.

TurboSinceBirth
10-09-2011, 04:15 PM
:bump: Offers people.

TurboSinceBirth
10-18-2011, 02:33 AM
:bump:

TurboSinceBirth
10-22-2011, 01:58 AM
:bump:

TurboSinceBirth
10-24-2011, 09:03 PM
Make me an offer. I'm purchasing another 3S for parts so I might even take a lowball.

gs1000kat
10-24-2011, 09:53 PM
So what exactly would I need to do to use this block? was it a problem with the copper or is there an issue with the block where the copper goes?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

TurboSinceBirth
10-25-2011, 12:11 AM
So what exactly would I need to do to use this block? was it a problem with the copper or is there an issue with the block where the copper goes?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


All you have to do is replace the copper wire. I'm not exactly sure how to go about getting it out since it's smashed from torquing the heads down and they're in there super tight. You'd probably need a pick or something. I never got the specs from the machine shop but I believe the previous owner had a 0.035" cut into the block for a 0.038" copper wire. Trevor thinks that the end gap was too big which caused the heads not to seal. He uses SS wire for his o-rings and a SCE copper head gasket with hylomar spray I believe. It's holding 35-36 psi on his GTX42R turbo so far. Between the $300 OEM gasket set and labor for replacing the copper wire I wasn't willing to give it a shot again without sending the block to Ray or having someone that knows what they're doing replace the copper wire. Multiple members have gotten a MLS head gasket and copper o-ring to work, but either Trevor's setup or stock would be my choice imo. I guess I'm just gun shy by all of this because it was part of the reason for ruining my continuation of my build besides the $5k extra in paint/bodywork. All the DSM guys extensively use copper o-rings with MLS head gaskets to run more boost sometimes even o-ringing the head too, but they also don't have weaker coolant channels by the intake valve that causes the heads to flex.

From there all you'd have to do is buy the rotating assembly whether you decided to go with a stroker or forged 3.1L build because the bore on this block was 3.1L. It was formerly a GT-Pro 3.1L fully built motor o-ringed and everything since the late 90s. It had spun a bearing when the last owner had the car so I decide to upgrade it because I needed a new crank anyways.

TurboSinceBirth
11-10-2011, 09:30 PM
:bump:

gs1000kat
11-11-2011, 12:46 AM
All you have to do is replace the copper wire. I'm not exactly sure how to go about getting it out since it's smashed from torquing the heads down and they're in there super tight. You'd probably need a pick or something. I never got the specs from the machine shop but I believe the previous owner had a 0.035" cut into the block for a 0.038" copper wire. Trevor thinks that the end gap was too big which caused the heads not to seal. He uses SS wire for his o-rings and a SCE copper head gasket with hylomar spray I believe. It's holding 35-36 psi on his GTX42R turbo so far. Between the $300 OEM gasket set and labor for replacing the copper wire I wasn't willing to give it a shot again without sending the block to Ray or having someone that knows what they're doing replace the copper wire. Multiple members have gotten a MLS head gasket and copper o-ring to work, but either Trevor's setup or stock would be my choice imo. I guess I'm just gun shy by all of this because it was part of the reason for ruining my continuation of my build besides the $5k extra in paint/bodywork. All the DSM guys extensively use copper o-rings with MLS head gaskets to run more boost sometimes even o-ringing the head too, but they also don't have weaker coolant channels by the intake valve that causes the heads to flex.

From there all you'd have to do is buy the rotating assembly whether you decided to go with a stroker or forged 3.1L build because the bore on this block was 3.1L. It was formerly a GT-Pro 3.1L fully built motor o-ringed and everything since the late 90s. It had spun a bearing when the last owner had the car so I decide to upgrade it because I needed a new crank anyways.

Thanks for the info and sorry for the late response. Tyring to get some things sold.

TurboSinceBirth
11-11-2011, 08:35 PM
Thanks for the info and sorry for the late response. Tyring to get some things sold.

No problem. I'll be listing more things up for sale. I have to pay for shipping another 3S so things have to go.

TurboSinceBirth
11-15-2011, 11:10 PM
:bump:

niterydr
05-17-2012, 05:32 PM
Still have this?

TurboSinceBirth
05-18-2012, 08:54 PM
Still have this?

Nope. I sold the stock block and scraped the stroker block. I will have two different short blocks here shortly. One is pulled and one the engine stand. I just need to take the motor apart. I have the receipts for when the shortblock was bought new from the dealer and has 45k miles on it now.