My setup, need suggestions and help .

[mb7050]

This is the HU.
Infill G4 Double-DIN Car-PC Barebone (1.5Ghz, FM radio, Amplifier, GPS) (http://www.cartft.com/catalog/il/770)
http://www.navigadget.com/wp-content/postimages/2006/07/infill-g4-002.jpg

I bought it because I just wanted to upgrade the OEM HU and for On board datalogging electric dash and all the other features that on board computer offers. Well ofcourse it didnt work like I planned the problem is this really annoying static noise problem and the only solution is to use the optical output.


I´m having a really hard time finding an EQ for this setup that would accept optical in (toslink) (2 channel PCM) .
(fixed) no longer a problem i can use the rca outputs too

And then there is the other issue I would like to have functional rear speakers too.
ill mount the woofers in the rear 6x9 location

And then there is the third problem if I use the optical output I need something to control the volume because the volume buttons on the Hu no longer works=(fixed) no longer a problem

[2fnloud]

This is the HU.
Infill G4 Double-DIN Car-PC Barebone (1.5Ghz, FM radio, Amplifier, GPS) (http://www.cartft.com/catalog/il/770)
http://www.navigadget.com/wp-content/postimages/2006/07/infill-g4-002.jpg

I bought it because I just wanted to upgrade the OEM HU and for On board datalogging electric dash and all the other features that on board computer offers. Well ofcourse it didnt work like I planned the problem is this really annoying static sound problem and the only solution is to use the optical output.


I´m having a really hard time finding an EQ for this setup that would accept optical in (toslink) (2 channel PCM) .

And then there is the other issue I would like to have functional rear speakers too.

And then there is the third problem if use the optical output I need something to control the volume because the volume buttons on the Hu no londer works

OK with that added fact, I have nothing.

[mb7050]

Here is it installed, just needs a little refining/ aligning
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3515/30205298.jpg
dust dust dust
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/2057/aaaaaxt.jpg
yep I also need a new cigarette lighter cover :)
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/1281/90938873.jpg

The HU got a touchscreen but I also bought this Logitech keyboard its wireless, two strong magnet holds it over the black suede piece I made for it, magnets are also there to guide it in the right position .
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3218/2590973365_ac91b99c2f.jpg

[mb7050]

I found this EQ


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrG8UsDcSiE

Audison - Music Expression (http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=BITONE)

[2fnloud]

I knew about the bit one but didn't know about it having the digi input...reading manual now

[2fnloud]

If you have a classy place to install the remote interface....THAT is your best option.

[mb7050]

it says It can reconstruct a stereo signal from a multi-channel signal. In addition it can reconstruct
reconstruction a centre channel and subwoofer channels from a stereo input alone.

I wonder if it can reconstruct a 4 channel signal from PCM 2channel opt input. so many output channels for me I´m going to upgrade the speakers too but only using the OEM locations . Any recommendations for speakers, amps..

[2fnloud]

might as well stick with Audison products...I like matching brands.

[mb7050]

If you have a classy place to install the remote interface....THAT is your best option.

I´m trying to find the dimensions for the remote interface but with no luck :(

[2fnloud]

on page 4 of the owners manual

43.5 mm tall
17mm thick (23mm thick accounting for dial on the unit)
For the width I can only see the width of the bracket, if you assume that the remote width is the same it is 90mm. even if it is not it wouldn't be that much bigger than that.

Hope that helps

[mb7050]

Thanks !
I´m thinking audison 6.5” Component Set for front and rear
http://caraudiomag.com/sites/default/files/images/00000/99/24/audison_av_k6_voce_65_component_set.jpg

Audison - Music Expression (http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=VOCEAVK6)

and this amp Audison - Music Expression (http://www.audison.eu/index_main.php?Section=LRX45)

and then if I´m not satisfied I can always add a subwoofer later, which will be a challenge because of the lack of room :)

[mb7050]

on page 4 of the owners manual

43.5 mm tall
17mm thick (23mm thick accounting for dial on the unit)
For the width I can only see the width of the bracket, if you assume that the remote width is the same it is 90mm. even if it is not it wouldn't be that much bigger than that.

Hope that helps

Well damn it is exactly the same size as my HKS evc 6 boost controller that i mounted inside one of the center vents all I need to do is to paint it glossy black and it makes a perfect couple !

not my pic but my install looks exactly the same
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c280/rpinieck/Stealth%20Pics/100_3617a.jpg

http://www.udc-caraudio.com/public/images/Audison_Bit_One_Remote_DRC_1280x1024_s.jpg

[mb7050]

I found these unused still in unopened box, These are from the late nineties

"JBL Century C630s 3-way Component system. Probably one of the best JBL ever produced. These were produced in very small quantities ! Brand New as seen in the photos.

made in Europe made in France so not the todays made in China JBL

Titanium tweeter, titanium reinforced power pmp polymer woofer cone..."

He is asking 250$ - very reasonable price but I have no idea how much these retail at, when these were new

the combined JBL tweeter/mid is a perfect fit, OEM tweeter hole is 75mm should be exactly the same size !

http://magnitola.com/attachments/akustika/26294d1255104921-selling-jbl-century-c630s-1.jpg

http://magnitola.com/attachments/akustika/26296d1255104937-selling-jbl-century-c630s-3.jpg


http://magnitola.com/attachments/akustika/26295d1255104929-selling-jbl-century-c630s-2.jpg


http://magnitola.com/attachments/akustika/26297d1255104944-selling-jbl-century-c630s-4.jpg


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/boboffkey123/IMG_0859.jpg


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f370/boboffkey123/IMG_0854.jpg

Audison also makes 3 way sets but prices start at 4200$ + 1000$ "made to specs crossovers" way too expensive for me

[mb7050]

would it be reasonable to put those JBL 3 ways to front doors and two JL 6.5" Subwoofers to rear

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/images/products/detail/6W3v3-4.jpg
"* Sensitivity: 80.49 dB
* RMS Power Range : 40-150 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 300 Watts
* Impedance: 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 30 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 300 Hz
* Diameter: 6.5 Inch

Features

* 6.5" 4-ohm subwoofer
* Mineral-filled polypropylene cone with nitrile-butylene rubber surround
* Vented Reinforcement Collar - reinforces the critical cone / spider / voice coil joint, resulting in superior mechanical integrity
* DMA Optimized Motor System - Dynamic Motor Analysis system aimed at improving dynamic motor behavior
* Elevated Frame Cooling - delivers cool air through slots directly above the top-plate to the voice coil of the speaker
* Spider and Lead Wire Assembly - Nickel-plated brass push terminals combine with strain relief features to ensure solid contact and lead-wire reliability
* Surround Stress-Relief - resulting in longer life and more consistent surround behavior
* Floating Cone Attach Method (FCAM�) - ensure concentricity of the surround, spider and voice coil without torquing the suspension to achieve it
* Customizable Trim Ring
* Top-mount depth: 4-3/16"
* Sealed box volume: 0.15 cubic feet"

[mb7050]

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7898/imag0279hi.jpg
Sound deadening

high water resistance

Same stuff that many car, train and aircraft manufacturers use.

[2fnloud]

I love the 3-way set up, If you have the means, get them.

The 6.5 woofer, are you talking about in the rear speaker location? If so I do not think that you will have the mounting depth for that magnet. My 6x9's didn't set right on the plastic enclosure. I ended up using non-hardening modeling clay to seal up the void.

Can bee seen here (http://www.3sgto.org/f21/2fnoulds-build-log-2575-10.html#post102648)

I would hold off on subs, or consider these (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-837), You will not get teeth jarring bass from them, but you also only need 180W RMS (I know they are only 90W, but you want the headroom) so you will not need a huge amp to push them.

If that isn't enough bass then I can recommend a little more that would go the the extreme rear corners of the hatch.

[mb7050]

would you rather use some 2 way - 3 way 6x9 at the back, Who makes the best 6X9 speakers? :D ? I may have found a way to add 2 8" subs to the trunk

[2fnloud]

IF I wasn't going 5.1 DTS moble theater, I would have nothing in the rear.

[mb7050]

I love the 3-way set up, If you have the means, get them.

The 6.5 woofer, are you talking about in the rear speaker location? If so I do not think that you will have the mounting depth for that magnet. My 6x9's didn't set right on the plastic enclosure. I ended up using non-hardening modeling clay to seal up the void.

Can bee seen here (http://www.3sgto.org/f21/2fnoulds-build-log-2575-10.html#post102648)

I would hold off on subs, or consider these (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-837), You will not get teeth jarring bass from them, but you also only need 180W RMS (I know they are only 90W, but you want the headroom) so you will not need a huge amp to push them.

If that isn't enough bass then I can recommend a little more that would go the the extreme rear corners of the hatch.

yes I´m talking about the OEM rear speaker locations

"Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer
The oval shaped frame of the W69-1042 gives you the surface area of a typical 8" driver in the footprint of a 6-1/2". Perfect for constructing a narrow-baffle subwoofer, or for automotive installs in factory 6" x 9" locations. High power handling and long excursion for excellent low-bass performance.

Specifications: • Power handling: 90 watts RMS/170 watts max • VCdia: 1-1/2" • Impedance: 8 ohms • Re: 6.5 ohms • Frequency range: 35-350 Hz • Fs: 35 Hz • SPL: 87 dB 2.83V/1m • Vas: 1.34 cu.ft. • Qms: 6.05 • Qes: 0.37 • Qts: 0.35 • Xmax 7 mm • Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 6-1/2" x 9-1/4", Mounting Depth: 4-3/16". "

These tang bangs have exactly the same mounting depth as JL 6.5"s

[mb7050]

Tang Bang 6.5 sub with mounting depth little less than 4"
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-832


then there are also these
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51W-VxaKJfL.jpg
mounting depth less than 3"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036MOQAE/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1278548962&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0013FDL52&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=159D3DGEF2EG7JQYRGTG

[2fnloud]

my concern with the TB 6.5 is that with that much cone movement the surround will slam into the spreaker grill.

[mb7050]

my concern with the TB 6.5 is that with that much cone movement the surround will slam into the spreaker grill.

your right it probably will do just that.

[mb7050]

I had this 10" sub laying around and it will cover the hole just nicely :D its actually very nice fit for a 10" sub ! mounting depth will be an issue for sure
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/9080/imag0292d.jpg
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/5326/imag0293l.jpg
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/1673/imag0294o.jpg

[mb7050]

Am I crazy if I´m thinking about putting some nice 10" subs back there ? something like this hmmm
http://www.advantageaudioandautosports.com/images/jl-12TW5-3.jpg
http://www2.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/800/600/products/2007/113/x113XW1000-f.jpeg
http://www.surroundsoundsystems.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/l/clarion-10-wf-ser-1-vc-sub-clrwf2510_3.jpg
http://www.motorator.com/uploads/blog_images/0000/0235/RF_Shallow_Enclosure_3.jpg
http://caraudiomag.com/sites/default/files/images/00000/26/82/mtx_thunder_thin_flat_cone.jpg

edit: no way me crazy

[2fnloud]

I wouldn't without a grill.

[2fnloud]

Your biggest obstacle would be sealing the sub properly.

[2fnloud]

These are not shallow, but require little air space, plus they have a nice grill that you can get

Solo Classic | KICKER (http://www.kicker.com/solo-classic)

[ictponder]

Might be a little too late but the Alpine PXE-H701 has optical input and will do any kind of eq or correction you want. If you don't mind waiting, the PXE-H800 will do even more.

[mb7050]

I ve got an impression that alpine EQ´s need also alpine HU to work with

[ictponder]

I ve got an impression that alpine EQ´s need also alpine HU to work with

Not a HU just a controller. I tuned mine with a laptop.

[mb7050]

I have not yet bought the audison . Do you have any pics of the controller ? My friend is rewriting the soft so hopefully I can use the volume on the HU and steering wheel control..

[ictponder]

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/500/h500RUXC701-f_DGv2p.jpg

[mb7050]

I really don't have a place to mount that

[mb7050]

I´m seriously thinking 3 way active front ..

I´m thinking for the rear Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-837) or 2x these Tang Band W6-1936S 6-1/2" Aluminum Cone Subwoofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-907)

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large/264-837_l.jpg

vs

http://www.mamut.net/dynabel/ta0605.jpg

http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Midbass-Speakers/CADENCE-6x9-COMPETITION-MID-BASS-CAR-SPEAKERS-DRIVERS/(2)+CVLW69.aspx

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3479/3470384252_4614e53e1a.jpg

[MR2]

wow insteresting design

[mb7050]

well I hooked up the JBL 3 way set and listened it for a while aaand it sound like CRAP, yep now I´m back to looking for a decent 3 way set.

front only

[2fnloud]

well I hooked up the JBL 3 way set and listened it for a while aaand it sound like CRAP, yep now I´m back to looking for a decent 3 way set.

front only

JBL & crap rarely belong in the same sentence, can you be more specific about what you didn't like about them?

[MR2]

I'd go with the wrong enclosure can make anything sound crap.

[mb7050]

Just a thought but then there is the issue with the impedances.................

Usher 9950-20 1-1/8" Textile Dome Tweeter (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?PartNumber=276-608) Tweeters needs to be hacked to fit 8ohm

HYBRID AUDIO TECHNOLOGIES LEGATIA L3 SPEAKERS (http://www.shopaudioxperts.com/HYBRID-AUDIO-TECHNOLOGIES-LEGATIA-L3-SPEAKERS-p58.html) Midrange 4 ohm

Proraum Vertriebs-GmbH | Shop | USHER-Lautsprecher | USHER 8945-K (http://www.audax-speaker.de/index.php?module=shop_articles&index%5Bshop_articles%5D%5Baction%5D=details&index%5Bshop_articles%5D%5Bcategory%5D=12&index%5Bshop_articles%5D%5Bdata%5D%5Bshop_articles _id%5D=36) Woofers 8 ohm

oor

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1038 Tweets

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8816 Mids

and I would mayby keep the JBL century woofers or something

[mb7050]

JBL & crap rarely belong in the same sentence, can you be more specific about what you didn't like about them?

mayby thats why these were produced in very small quantities, lol / or the seller lied me and sold me blown set of speakers(these were supposed to be new)

the midrange/tweeter coaxial thing (1" titanium dome and 2" coax driver combined) sound "raspy", few distortions here and there not nice and clear . the "woofer" was ok


I'd go with the wrong enclosure can make anything sound crap.

idk I put them inside one of my home speaker enclosures didnt make much difference other than bass response
I think I have to do more testing with the jbl´s before I completely ignore them .

[2fnloud]

what frequency did you have the cross-over set? How low was the woofer trying to play?
What have you done to the door to sound deaden / seal the door?

There should be a frequency range listed on the box and or owner's manual. Also that is the rated RMS wattage? take that rating and doiuble it, that is the RMS wattage you want your amplifier, why double it is for headroom.

An amplifier will rarely output its full RMS wattage while playing music, so you get an amplifier that is double (give or take) the speaker's RMS wattage so they are closer to their listed RMS wattage while playing music.

What did you have powering them? must head units you are lucky if they are 15 RMS watts. Take a speaker that looks like it is good for 100-125 RMS wattage and power them with 15 watts, they are not going to be loud we then start turning up the radio to play them louder...(distorting the sound) and we think that the speakers crap.

I would set the cross-over at 100, maybe 80 Hz and give a listen. that 6.5 is a mid-bass, not a subwoofer ;)

Hope this info helps.

[mb7050]

hmm I think I´m spoiled by the superb system in my DD (BMW 7 series). Ha I googled it and its pretty amazing shit !


Experience your music like never before with the HiFi Professional LOGIC7 System(7.1 surround sound concept). Thirteen speakers ensure high-quality reproduction of all your favourite music from practically any format.

Seven mid-range speakers, four tweeters and two centrally-positioned woofers ensure an unmatched listening experience in the cabin of your BMW. The tweeters (28 mm in diameter) and woofers (100 mm diameter) feature aluminium membranes. The tweeter uses ceramic components for superb precision.
Seven mid-range speakers (including one central speaker) are positioned around the cabin: one in each of the front and rear doors, two in the shelf behind the rear seats, one in the centre of the instrument panel. The woofers (217 mm in diameter) are fitted underneath the two front seats.
The central bass concept enables a symmetrical distribution of the bass frequency output within the vehicle. This concept exploits the underbody volume: the hollow space in the underbody is used to add depth to the bass tones. Positioning the speakers under the seats has the added advantage of freeing boot space, and reducing unwanted vibration of items in the cabin, as well as ensuring excellent, distortion-free bass reproduction.
The influence of driving noise is automatically compensated by the speed-dependent equalizer, which finely adjusts bass output as required.

The LOGIC7 system uses high-performance woofers with 28 mm of lift and a Neodym-constructed drive. The woofers are connected acoustically to the side-sills, using these hollow cavities to full advantage. This location is well suited to enhance the quality of the sound system. This solution also ensures woofer sound with very low distortion and a symmetric spread of the low-frequency sound energy within the passenger full advantage.
The 7.1 channel playback matrix is stereo compatible and allows all two-channel material to play in full, multichannel surround.

LOGIC7 technology has the ability to clearly place musical instruments, sound effects, and dialog within recorded or broadcasted music at different depths and panning within the listening space. Each of the seven LOGIC7 channels are full bandwidth and uniquely reproduce decorrelated stereo information from front to back, regenerating the broad spectrum of frequencies in the desired locations.

LOGIC7 surround sound, passengers in the new 7 Series can enjoy both music originally recorded in analog mode, surround-coded recordings, and the specially mixed multichannel sound of DVD films

and for gigs I took a look at it and all the connectors are fiber optic now this is what I want in my spyder :D
the amp is quite damn big and btw it says its made by Harman Kardon

[2fnloud]

You will have to do an insane amount of sound dampening to make the cabin of a 3s even remotely close to a cabin of a BMW.

[mb7050]

You will have to do an insane amount of sound dampening to make the cabin of a 3s even remotely close to a cabin of a BMW.

its a spyder I always drive it top open so surround is kinda useless anyway I think. all I want is nice and clean sound :) and the 2.6om is correct for the mids my multimeter was acting up..

[mb7050]

what frequency did you have the cross-over set? How low was the woofer trying to play?
What have you done to the door to sound deaden / seal the door?

There should be a frequency range listed on the box and or owner's manual. Also that is the rated RMS wattage? take that rating and doiuble it, that is the RMS wattage you want your amplifier, why double it is for headroom.

An amplifier will rarely output its full RMS wattage while playing music, so you get an amplifier that is double (give or take) the speaker's RMS wattage so they are closer to their listed RMS wattage while playing music.

What did you have powering them? must head units you are lucky if they are 15 RMS watts. Take a speaker that looks like it is good for 100-125 RMS wattage and power them with 15 watts, they are not going to be loud we then start turning up the radio to play them louder...(distorting the sound) and we think that the speakers crap.

I would set the cross-over at 100, maybe 80 Hz and give a listen. that 6.5 is a mid-bass, not a subwoofer ;)

Hope this info helps.

Here are the setting I took a better look at the amp it says RMS power 4 x 50 W ..

test HU
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2825/imag0316n.jpg
test amp
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/7174/imag0324w.jpg
this would be a good mounting place ?, fits flush on door panel so it should look pretty OEM
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/2401/imag0318d.jpg

[mb7050]

Did some more testing with a different amp/settings/HU/box and came to conclusion that these are not for me SQ just isnt there ..

the mid bass sounds actually very good but the 2" way coaxial is crap

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Your going to have some serious phase issues with your 2" mounted there... read http://www.3sgto.org/f21/sq-nothing-but-being-cheap-isnt-option-4878.html and The Hybrid Audio speakers are sweet.... Hes my idol in audio...

[2fnloud]

I would not mount them there, I would mount them in the dash at the stock location before putting them there.

[MR2]

I have a tweeter attached angled on the stock speaker location (in the door) and another on that triangle that the mirror would normally stick to (again angled) sounds ok to me...nothing crazy good, the doors are just not speaker friendly :|

[95 RT/TT]

I would set the cross-over at 100, maybe 80 Hz and give a listen. that 6.5 is a mid-bass, not a subwoofer ;)


I agree.

Kinda funny they rate them lower but they can't play those frequencies very well.

I had to bring up my 7" doors quite a bit.

[95 RT/TT]

I ran them off the car with the suplied passive crossovers and powered them with some old blaupunkt 4x75wrms amp (2x75wrms in this case) . the box i used was sealed .

the specs for the

6.5" midbasses 90wrms 2.83V,1m 92 dB 60-20khz 37mm voice coil

1" tweeter 2" mid thing 50wrms 2.83V,1m 90 dB 500Hz -22khz 25mm voice coil

did some testing with the multimeter
6.5"
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/1300/imag0308i.jpg
2" mid

6.5" midbass dissconnected no reading ! its weird because impedance should be 2ohm they sell these like this with this passive crossover without the midbass element as a "2" coaxial element"


Is that some new fangled impedance meter? :biggrin:

[95 RT/TT]

I´m thinking for the rear Tang Band W69-1042J 6"x9" Subwoofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-837) or 2x these Tang Band W6-1936S 6-1/2" Aluminum Cone Subwoofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-907)




I like this idea it would save a lot of weight. I have a smokin corner box and a w3v3. 2 in parallel is 4 ohms which I can power with the existing system. But is it workable?

[MR2]

Thing with the doors is they are a SHIT enclosure...waiting for someone to find a way to seal the speaker enclosure in it.

[2fnloud]

you don't ever completely seal it, you just seal it the best you can and still allow for push rods to move and wires to be routed.

[mb7050]

I agree.

Kinda funny they rate them lower but they can't play those frequencies very well.

I had to bring up my 7" doors quite a bit.

hmmm. I wonder would these fit ?
http://www.audax-speaker.de/temp/explorer/files/imported/fotos/w8945k.jpg
Usher 8945A 7" Carbon Fiber/Paper Woofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-600)
My friend got these installed and god damn they sound amazing.

[mb7050]

if I can find some good sounding 3" midranges where would you mount them ?

[2fnloud]

how extreme are you wiling to go?

[mb7050]

not very but would the door location work for midranges thats about the same height/angle as where the 3.5" mids are located in my bmw ?

[2fnloud]

I will say it bluntly now. Your 3s is not your BMW. even if you perfectly reto-fited the BMW audio system into a 3s it wouldn't sound the same.

each car is different, and that system was designed for a BMW.

[mb7050]

yeah. All I want is nice and clean sounding system.I´m not an audiophile but I can appreciate quality sounding system. I don´t want a loud system. My friend will do the sound proofing for me glass fiber + few thick coats of terophon srayed over the glass fiber for the doors.We will spray few coats of terophon to the truck, roof and under carpets too same thing we did for my hummer few yrs ago no rattles to date ... below is what my friend got and to me these speakers sound amazing and are prity cheap too..

Usher 9950-20 1-1/8" Textile Dome Tweeter (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?PartNumber=276-608)
http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large/276-608_l.jpg

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=8816
http://www.musicalita.com/files/2010/10/fr89ex-400x400.jpg

Usher 8945A 7" Carbon Fiber/Paper Woofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-600)
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31h4sEU7X0L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

BUT I really like the sound of metal dome tweeteres so instead of textile dome i will have these
https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=85
https://www.madisound.com/store/images/NSW2-326-8Anu.jpg

and if those wont play high enough I´ll add these to the mix
Vifa NE25VTA-04 1" Aluminum Dome Tweeter (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1038)
https://www.madisound.com/store/images/NE25VTA.jpg

and 6x9 tang band woofers for the rear and If I´m missing the low tones I could add two 10" to the truck

[MR2]

Bah, If it's the last thing I ever do on the GTO, it will be to figure out how to seal some door pods AND allow the class to lower properly.

[95 RT/TT]

The doors were done in and out with vblock and there's dampening pads for the speakers. There is also a cascade rattle foam under the wires and door rods.

The silver speaker is 6.5" the 7" speaker is the black

Yes that is a black door door panel.

[mb7050]

fuck the glass. that should do it.

oh and seal

I obviously didn't make myself clear enough so let me specify

http://www.johnforceracestation.com/PDGImages/6314595593297494529_1.jpg

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

hmmm. I wonder would these fit ?
http://www.audax-speaker.de/temp/explorer/files/imported/fotos/w8945k.jpg
Usher 8945A 7" Carbon Fiber/Paper Woofer (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-600)
My friend got these installed and god damn they sound amazing.

Wow nice tear in the cone....

[MR2]

Low Profile Subwoofers (http://www.mp3car.com/car-audio/94589-low-profile-sub-woofers.html)

Make a great woofer in a door I recon :) just run it up to 800 and do a mid from there etc

[mb7050]

http://3-photos2.ebizautos.com/4820/7118876/7118876_55.jpg

[mb7050]

Wow nice tear in the cone....

what would you suggest in the 7" range . I would think uneven core would cause uneven mass on the cone and thats a bad thing right ?

[2fnloud]

There is nothing wrong with that brand / model of speaker. He is pointing out that it appears that the photo you posted has a tear in the cone, like it was cut or ripped by slamming into something.

[mb7050]

saving some links for future use
JBL MS-8 System Integration Digital Sound Processor (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27642_JBL-MS-8.html)

Arc Audio KS 125.4 Mini (http://www.arcaudio.com/product-pages/amplifiers/ks-series/ksm1254.asp)

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-1046

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC2-65C-PRECISION-POWER-6-5-PPI-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-MIDS-TWEETERS-CROSSOVERS-NEW-/120610557184#vi-content

[2fnloud]

If you can make that fit in the places that we talked about in CHAT BOX, THAT would be a very advanced system, no need for passive x-overs, let the MS-8 do that. Hope you can get all that stuff to fit.

[mb7050]

now that i´ve got all the hiccups sorted out with the carpc and dac/soundcard its time to get on with the project.. might have to upgrade the usb dac to a better quality one like a rega or a cambridge audio dacmagic 100.

and the latest plan is :

JL HD900/5 amp (100 W x 4 RMS for woofers and mids + 500 W RMS for subs) ( http://www.jlaudio.ca/hd900-5-car-audio-hd-amplifiers-98223 ) and JBL MS-8 ,( 4-way active setup ).

2x6x9 tangbang subs 80 watts RMS each in back (driven by the JL HD900/5 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8 )
2x6.5" jbl century woofers in doors (driven by the JL HD900/5 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x2" jbl century mids in dash (driven by the JL HD900/5 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x1" jbl century tweets in dash (driven and controlled by the JBL MS-8 )

I´m gonna give the jbl´s a third change just because I found and bought a new set of mid/tweets. I also found out that the jbl 3 way set cost over 400€(MSRP) back in 1999 and actually won a test against some other top of the range speakers from the time .. If I´m not pleased i can always upgrade.

or plan B:

JBL GTO1004 amp (3 channel mode: 2 x 100W RMS for woofers + 200W RMS for subs) + JBL GTO504 4-channel amp (55 watts RMS x 4 for mids and tweets ) and JBL MS-8 ,( 4-way active setup ).

2x6x9 tangbang subs 80 watts RMS each in back (driven by the JBL GTO1004 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8 )
2x6.5" jbl century woofers in doors (driven by the JBL GTO1004 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x2" jbl century mids in dash (driven by the JBL GTO504 amp and controlled by the jbl ms-8)
2x1" jbl century tweets in dash (driven by the JBL GTO504 and controlled by the JBL MS-8 )

just because I like matching brands