Painters enter please

[Jimvr4]

I'm going to be respraying my Spyder because the paint is getting very thin on some panels and of course I have the door dings and rock chips you would expect on a car with nearly 100K miles. I'm going to use a body shop for the painting but I just want to make sure I get everything right on the order.

I'm going to stay with the X94 sable black color that came on the 95. I believe the 96 came with the X08 solano black pearl. I *think* the X94 is a single stage urethane and the X08 is a BC / CC (base coat / clear coat) paint. I'm pretty sure the X94 is single stage because when I polish it I get black color on to my polishing disc. From what I've read you can go with single stage on solid colors but all the new metal flake paints are BC / CC because you can't get depth in the finish otherwise.

I want to be able to polish the finish for years to come so I want to make sure it is thick enough. I'm thinking like 120 micro inches ( around 4.7 mils ) would be thick enough. 3-4 coats should be able to cover it right?

I've already talked with a body shop and we agreed I could save a couple grand by doing the de-trim myself. So far I have all the interior out and I've started pulling weatherstrips. The plan is to strip everything off including door handles, bumpers, door caps, side skirts. I'm also going for a new windshield glass.

I'm going to try to document the Spyder top stuff as well while the interior is out,

[Jimvr4]

For a while I've wanted to fix all the minor imperfections in the Spyder including dents, rock chips and fading paint. I finally made the decision to go ahead with this project. To save cost (and because I like working on the car) I'm doing nearly all the work to de-trim the car and prepare it for paint. Here's a short list of what I've done:
1) Remove all interior trim, seats (except for driver's), headliner, trunk trim, carpets
2) Remove under trays, wheel well covers
3) Remove lamps and turns, front and rear
4) Remove front and rear bumpers, side skirts and door cap moldings
5) Dissassemble bumpers
6) Remove door handles and lock cylinders
7) Remove mirrors and dissassemble
8) Remove all weatherstripping

Rear bumper and sideskirts were particularly painful to remove. The 4 nuts that hold the bumper sides to the rear quarter panels are very tough to reach. On the passenger side it is necessary to remove the tonneau piston to gain access to the inside of the quarter panel:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/24000a80.jpg

Sideskirts were even tougher since access is through the door jambs. I don't have a picture of this area yet. Maybe when I get the car back for assembly. Here's all the parts removed:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/24400a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/24600a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/24800a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/24a00a80.jpg

Here's the car getting ready to go to the body shop:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/24e00a80.jpg

[Jimvr4]

Here's my new Targa-top Spyder, lol. Front and rear glass removed and most of the body work underway:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/25000a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/25200a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/25400a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/25600a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/25e00a80.jpg

[BigTyla]

4 thin coats should do it for urethane.

If you're having color come off when you wax, you have single-stage paint. You probably know the advantages and disadvantages of single-stage paint already (and you also seem to have made up your mind on it) so I won't bore you with the details.

[Jimvr4]

4 thin coats should do it for urethane.

If you're having color come off when you wax, you have single-stage paint. You probably know the advantages and disadvantages of single-stage paint already (and you also seem to have made up your mind on it) so I won't bore you with the details.

I'm no paint expert so I don't mind discussing. I've learned that black can look really good with either system but there are differences. With a highly polished SS paint the finish looks deeper since the pigment is so much closer to the surface. On the other hand the BS/CC black has a higher gloss but looks more "plastic" since the color coat is further away from the surface.

[Gearhead]

Not trying to jack your thread, but which would be better for a show car?

[BigTyla]

I'm no paint expert so I don't mind discussing. I've learned that black can look really good with either system but there are differences. With a highly polished SS paint the finish looks deeper since the pigment is so much closer to the surface. On the other hand the BS/CC black has a higher gloss but looks more "plastic" since the color coat is further away from the surface.

Black is definitely a beast of its own. I think it looks best without a clear. Of course if you're adding flakes you HAVE to go with a clear coat.

If you want more gloss without going with a clear coat, mix your paint with a hardener.

[BigTyla]

Not trying to jack your thread, but which would be better for a show car?

Subjective question. See above.

[Jimvr4]

Not trying to jack your thread, but which would be better for a show car?

I've read that SS is better for a show car. Deeper color but less UV resistance, tougher to maintain but looks best when cared for properly.


Black is definitely a beast of its own. I think it looks best without a clear. Of course if you're adding flakes you HAVE to go with a clear coat.

If you want more gloss without going with a clear coat, mix your paint with a hardener.

Agree.

According to Em of GZP *all* our cars were BC/CC or base / pearl / clear combinations. So, either I've sanded all all the clear on my car or it was resprayed with a single stage paint sometime before I got it. I'm going to have to talk to the painter to get an opinion on what I have. Doesn't change what I'm looking for though - deep black color with a flat reflective finish :)

[BigTyla]

I would imagine every rendition of black was BC/CC for UV protection.

I have not painted before but I've been doing quite a bit of research on it in preparation for painting my Talon. It looks like I'll be going black as well, only my choice will be a lot more budget-oriented.

[mcshooter]

for a budget minded paint try montana paints . i just used there eurospeed clear on a bright red 1969 nova thats going to car shows. also if you need a blender look at u-pro20 as it does not have to be used in 2 minutes ..iam not a painter but have painted a few cars that have won awards at car shows. if you have a place to do it yourself give it a go..

[Jimvr4]

De-trim is progressing well. All the interior is out except for the driver seat. I have the doors stripped down completely, front and rear bumpers are off. I'll have to post up a picture on getting access to the last four 10 mm nuts holding the rear bumper. You have to remove one of the tonneau pistons :eek4:

Wheels are off and the car is on jackstands. Fender liners are out. Next up is door caps and side skirts. So far I have about 15 ziplock bags full of hardware :popout:

[Jimvr4]

Updated the thread with lots of pics :)

[dbest671]

Did you have fun removing the rear bumper, ever wished you had smaller hands :p? You should order the reproduction VR4 badge for the Spyder, and have the body shop paint match it to the original emblems. The emblems on the rear bumper have been replaced at some point because Spyders never had the 3 diamond emblem before the Mitsubishi part.

I know our Spyder has a couple of resprays on the roof and tonneau cover from the factory, and I want to say it was BS/CC because the clear had flaked off the small piece above the rear center garnish.

Subscribed for finished product. I can see a total repaint for our Spyder later down the road.

[Jimvr4]

Yeah, the rear bumper was fun. It's not really that hard once you figure out which holes in the body panels to use for access. I already have all the badges from Frank which he painted in silver and I bought a new Mitsubishi emblem so it will look factory from the rear for the first time in the 12 years I've owned it.

I found information that the original paint was Single Stage for all non-metallic colors:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/268c3940.png

[dbest671]

Yeah, the rear bumper was fun. It's not really that hard once you figure out which holes in the body panels to use for access. I already have all the badges from Frank which he painted in silver and I bought a new Mitsubishi emblem so it will look factory from the rear for the first time in the 12 years I've owned it.

I found information that the original paint was Single Stage for all non-metallic colors:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/268c3940.png

My hands were a little banged up the next days from reaching in the access holes.

But I wondering about the Spyder Specific stuff, like tonneau cover and roof. I have heard just about every black Spyder has problems with the paint on the Spyder parts.

[Jimvr4]

I didn't have any CC peeling issues like I've seen in pictures. It really wasn't bad at all but I wanted to fix all the little dents and rock chips. And I did have two places where the paint was so thin it was getting down to primer. These were the drivers A pillar molding and the rear skirt under the tonneau. Also the tonneau lid was hazing in a pattern to match the sub structure.

The problem with the roof is the thin rubber weatherstrips at the roof edges. These don't have part numbers so can't be ordered.

[dbest671]

I didn't have any CC peeling issues like I've seen in pictures. It really wasn't bad at all but I wanted to fix all the little dents and rock chips. And I did have two places where the paint was so thin it was getting down to primer. These were the drivers A pillar molding and the rear skirt under the tonneau. Also the tonneau lid was hazing in a pattern to match the sub structure.

The problem with the roof is the thin rubber weatherstrips at the roof edges. These don't have part numbers so can't be ordered.

Now you are going to make me go uncover the car. Chances are if they had part numbers, you still could not order them :(.

I am currently trying to find the main weatherstripping that goes around the windshield and down the pillars, I think the body shop messed mine up :suspect:. I have Mike at Cherry Hill on the hunt.

[Jimvr4]

Now you are going to make me go uncover the car. Chances are if they had part numbers, you still could not order them :(.

I am currently trying to find the main weatherstripping that goes around the windshield and down the pillars, I think the body shop messed mine up :suspect:. I have Mike at Cherry Hill on the hunt.

Marc Mayer says his body shop was able to remove and re-use those thin rubber strips but my shop doesn't want to take them off.

Good luck finding that windshield weatherstrip - if anyone can find it it will be Cherry Hill. But, what's wrong with yours? I pulled mine off by myself and will need to re-attach it with some kind of weatherstrip adhesive.

[dbest671]

^I think the body shop ripped it or something. Now I am getting water in the car through the front of the passenger side window. There is some sticky residue stuff on it, I'll take a picture to show you. But it doesn't look normal.

[Jimvr4]

I just bought this one to re-attach the side air dams. It's 3M 06386 which is 1/4 inch by 20 yards. Jeff on stealth316 specs the 06384 which is 1/2 inch wide but then you have to cut it lengthwise.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Upl9v4ddL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

This one is to attach the custom Spyder and VR4 emblems I got from Frank Pearson. It's 3M 8069 press-in-place emblem adhesive.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21dcSrNO4QL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

And this one is to re-attach the weatherstrip to the header. It's 3M 08008 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41gWPl-5DqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[dbest671]

The body shop put the adhesive stuff on the Spyder emblems. I think it was the same stuff mentioned above. I think it look him about an hour to carefully cut away the excess in between the letters and stuff. Probably took another hour to place them correctly on the car.

We didn't remove the side skirts on the Spyder, and it would probably take an act of god for me to even think about removing them. Those are the biggest PITA, as discussed elsewhere. And I am so anal about the Spyder there would be no nutless stud left of the Spyder, even if the nut feel into the abyss.

This is what the windshield header weatherstripping looks like on the passenger side. It appears that a)the broke the piece attached to the pillar and b) messed up the weatherstripping. Whatever they used to "glue" it for repair is super sticky. I have to pick lent and crap out of it all the time. Sorry for the crappy pictures, had to take a car cover off.

http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/pp4/hoopb23/Spyder/SpyderWeatherstripping002-1.jpg
http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/pp4/hoopb23/Spyder/SpyderWeatherstripping005-1.jpg

[Jimvr4]

I feel the same way about the Spyder so I hope it's not too hard to get those nuts back on. The skirts had to come off for a proper re-spray though. Hard to tell in your pictures if the actual weatherstrip is damaged. Those pillar cap slips are supposed to be available still - have you asked Mike? They are screwed into the header which may be why yours is broken if they tried to pull it out. The weatherstrip has a plastic push pin that anchors it to that clip but I think it does so in the portion that is broken off. So you need a new clip.

[Jimvr4]

Here are the first shots after clear coat was done. Fender was worked a little more before this shot.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/26a00a80.jpg

Still need to buff and polish the tonneau
http://jns.jimnshar.com/26c00a80.jpg

Roof section is fairly complete.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/26e00a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/27000a80.jpg

Driver's door getting there....
http://jns.jimnshar.com/27200a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/27400a80.jpg

Side skirts ready for paint, bottom side rock chips repaired!!
http://jns.jimnshar.com/27a00a80.jpg

[Jimvr4]

Body shop called today and said the glass went in and the car is DONE. They're still finishing up the loose pieces but I should be towing it home on Monday :7Up:

[dbest671]

I'm super jealous... can't wait to see the finished product.

[Jimvr4]

I'm super jealous... can't wait to see the finished product.

If I know you, yours will come out even better when you decide to take it on :)

I can't wait to get it back here and start putting everything back together. It will be 4 weeks Monday since it was towed for paint and probably 2 weeks of de-trim (part time) before that. So already 6 weeks of not getting to drive it in the California summer :(

[NOMIEZVR4]

Wow...shes looking great already! Keep the pictures coming..

[BigTyla]

It looks like the body shop did a good job with your paint!

[Jimvr4]

Been really busy on the car so I'm a little behind in updating this thread. Those last pics were taken on Thursday 7/7/2011. On Monday 7/11/2011 I took another set where you can see the shine really coming out:. This one is after color sanding, buffing, polishing, and waxing
http://jns.jimnshar.com/27c00a80.jpg

Here are the small bits sitting on a table in the back. They didn't come home today as they need a final buffing and waxing.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/27e00a80.jpg

Sideskirts in the foreground and bumpers in the rear. All still need to be buffed. Final buffing may have to take place after they are back on the car as they are too flimsy to handle
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28000a80.jpg

Here's a few shots of the hood from different angles
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28200a80.jpg

This one is showing the ceiling like a mirror
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28400a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/28600a80.jpg

Tonneau lid in process
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28800a80.jpg

[Jimvr4]

Manually opened the top to connect the rear glass defroster and trim some excess sealant from the glass installation. I discovered the top would not open by power as it just continued to fast beep. I connected Toplink and read the codes. It's throwing a code 41 which is an open circuit in the passenger side header latch wiring. Interestingly the code remains highlighted in grey if it is actively being thrown. I know this because I purposely disconnected the driver side header latch and it threw a code 37 which was grey. Reconnecting it removed the grey highlight. With the top not working under power I was concerned about the trip home. I needed to have the tonneau latched down for the trip but when I tried my manual release lever I confirmed it did not work. The body shop came up with a long piece of wire which I tied directly to the splitter behind the passenger side and tested that I could pull this wire and release the latches. After confirming this I switched the tonneau to manual and dropped it down and pressed each side to latch it down. Then I used the special tool to latch the header.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28a00a80.jpg

Tonneau showing beautiful reflectivity
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28c00a80.jpg

Loaded up and ready for the return home. A couple of shop towels stuffed next to the windows prevent the glass from rattling.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/28e00a80.jpg

Finally home after 4 weeks at the body shop. Now comes probably 30-40 hours of re-assembly and cleaning.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/29000a80.jpg

[Hans@GZP]

Looks great Jim. It's definitely a lot of work reassembling a spyder after paint. Good luck and be careful. Don't be afraid to use low tack tape on the edges of the body when reassembling bumpers and skirts.

[Jimvr4]

Thanks Hans!

I got all the body parts back on over the weekend. Car back at the body shop for wet sanding and polishing the bumpers.
http://jns.jimnshar.com/29800a80.jpg

First crappy pic of the completed car body. Fixed the header microswitch too! Need better lighting!
http://jns.jimnshar.com/29a00a80.jpg

[BigTyla]

Looking good. I want a Spyder so bad but seeing the added complexity they bring (like this thread) always makes me think twice!

[CoreyB]

Man that is looking amazing.

[dbest671]

:loveeyes::yum:

How did the side skirt reinstall go?

[Jimvr4]

:loveeyes::yum:

How did the side skirt reinstall go?

Not too bad considering. It took about an hour for each one. I used a bike flashlight to see inside the quarter panel. I used a box end 8mm wrench on the nearest nut and an 8mm ratcheting wrench on the far one. I tied one end of a string to the car and the other end to my wrench in case I dropped it inside the quarter panel. And I did and it got STUCK!! I had to push on my string to unstick it and pull it out. I also dropped one 8mm nut in there (weight addition mod). So yeah, the sideskirts aren't that hard :rolleyes3: Rear bumper is MUCH easier.

Things left to do:
1) Fix mysterious hydraulic leak near top pump
2) Fix very slow hydraulic leak at passenger tonneau cylinder
3) Install head weatherstrip using 3M super weatherstrip adhesive
4) Install roof weatherstrips
5) Install full interior
6) Install emblems including Frank's replicas
7) Install undertrays (should consider a splitter instead)

BTW - I tried to buy new A pillar caps and Cherry Hill can't get any. Still thinking about carpet replacement and dynamat

[dbest671]

Yeah called cherry hill today to see about that clip the body shop broke, Mike said he they didn't have them :(. Got the weatherstrip in today, and it is the wrong one. It is the one that goes around the tonneau cover (on the body of the car). I decided I would keep it since Mike said there was only left in inventory (Atlanta), and it was $913. It is a brand new weatherstrip though, even has the little velvet piece on the bottom on the quarter window seal. Sent the guy an email to see if he has the correct weatherstrip, we shall see.

New carpet will run about $450 shipped, at least that was the cost when I bought mine.

My passenger tonneau cylinder started leaking, and we bought a new one. Installed the new one and had the old one rebuilt. The rebuild cost about $50.

Get a splitter, it really does make the car stand out. Sucks when you hit your shin on it, but still looks great.

[OhioSpyderman]

Looking B-eautiful!!!!

I know you'll fix those things....

April, you slay me with some of the off the wall stuff you say....

Bob. :)

[Jimvr4]

Yeah called cherry hill today to see about that clip the body shop broke, Mike said he they didn't have them :(. Got the weatherstrip in today, and it is the wrong one. It is the one that goes around the tonneau cover (on the body of the car). I decided I would keep it since Mike said there was only left in inventory (Atlanta), and it was $913. It is a brand new weatherstrip though, even has the little velvet piece on the bottom on the quarter window seal. Sent the guy an email to see if he has the correct weatherstrip, we shall see.

New carpet will run about $450 shipped, at least that was the cost when I bought mine.

My passenger tonneau cylinder started leaking, and we bought a new one. Installed the new one and had the old one rebuilt. The rebuild cost about $50.

Get a splitter, it really does make the car stand out. Sucks when you hit your shin on it, but still looks great.

You got a bargain on the weatherstrip even if it is the wrong one, but that one is pretty easy to R&I so you may not really need the new one. Does your splitter have cutouts for tow hooks and the jacking point?


Looking B-eautiful!!!!

I know you'll fix those things....

April, you slay me with some of the off the wall stuff you say....

Bob. :)

I think I found the source of the leak and may have fixed it. Those black manifolds have a snap ring on the back that locks the control knob in place. The snap ring had partially worked itself loose when I operate the control for the first time in the 12 years I've owned the car. I just pressed it with a small screwdriver and it clicked into place :)

For the tonneau I plan to pump out the fluid and disconnect the cylinder to replace the O-ring seals. Pretty sure the seal was identified on the Yahoo list already.

[dbest671]

You got a bargain on the weatherstrip even if it is the wrong one, but that one is pretty easy to R&I so you may not really need the new one. Does your splitter have cutouts for tow hooks and the jacking point?

I got the splitter from skillard44 on 3si. Same one 3sx sells. It didn't have cutouts for the tow hooks, but 30 minutes with a cut off wheel on a drill, I had the spots cutout for the tow hooks. Somebody else used a 5" hole saw, I would have if the damn hole saw didn't cost about $60. It does have a reinforced plate in the center for the jacking point, and it works.

http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/pp4/hoopb23/Spyder/Spyder002.jpg

[Jimvr4]

I got the splitter from skillard44 on 3si. Same one 3sx sells. It didn't have cutouts for the tow hooks, but 30 minutes with a cut off wheel on a drill, I had the spots cutout for the tow hooks. Somebody else used a 5" hole saw, I would have if the damn hole saw didn't cost about $60. It does have a reinforced plate in the center for the jacking point, and it works.



I think your splitter looks great but I don't think I'll go there yet. First since I lowered the car I can barely get a jack under it from the front and also my jacking point is bent in so I think I'll need to buy a new cross member to fix that.

[Jimvr4]

I spent the whole weekend working on the car again mostly reinstalling the interior and tweaking the top stuff. I was hoping the snap ring fix would work on the manifold but it still has a slight leak. Not sure how to work on the manifold since oil will pour out of it as soon as I loosen the snap ring. Probably have to complete drain the system.

The windshield weatherstrip went back in really well. I had stripped off as much of the tape as I could and that caused the surface of the weatherstrip to be rough from having the first layer pulled off. I used my 3M 8008 Superweatherstrip adhesive and layed down a thin layer spread with a toothbrush. By the time I got to the end it was getting really tacky so I got out my 3M 1/4 inch molding take and layed down the sticky side on to the weatherstrip where the glue was:

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2a400a80.jpg

Had to spend time fixing the drivers door handle where I somehow broke off the bolt that goes through the door frame to attach the handle. I bought one of those extractor tools and a cobalt drill bit. With a little 3M oil to lubricate the bit I manage to drill a 1/8 inch hole right on center of the 5mm bolt. The extractor tool backed it right out with no damage to the paint!

First decent pics. Still totally debadged at this point:
http://jns.jimnshar.com/29c00a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/29e00a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2a000a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2a200a80.jpg

[BigTyla]

I kinda like the debadged look.

[dbest671]

I think your splitter looks great but I don't think I'll go there yet. First since I lowered the car I can barely get a jack under it from the front and also my jacking point is bent in so I think I'll need to buy a new cross member to fix that.

Yeah our car is not lowered. We had to buy longer ramps to even get it up on the trailer with the stock wheel gap.

It is coming together nicely. Can't wait to see the finished product. What front bumper emblem are you putting on, the red one or the chrome one?

[Jimvr4]

Thought about going chrome on the front emblem but decided against it because I want it to be flush. Still working on getting the rear emblem :D Tonight I put the Mitsubishi letting on the rear and the red diamond star on the front. Next I need to apply Frank's Spyder VR4 repro to the rear.

Bob got me thinking about tinting but IDK. The law in Cali says you can't have less than 70% on front windows. I suspect a lot of people violate that one. I think my son went to around 30% and he got flagged and had to remove it.

[OhioSpyderman]

Bob got me thinking about tinting but IDK. The law in Cali says you can't have less than 70% on front windows. I suspect a lot of people violate that one. I think my son went to around 30% and he got flagged and had to remove it.

Jim, the LAST thing I would wish on you is having the expense of installing the tint and then the hassle (and re-expense) of having it removed :)

You've done such a beautiful job with the "blackout" theme, I just thought the tinting would add to it...

Your car looks AMAZING btw, only you could pull off the total disassembly and re-assembly of our technologically challenging beauties and make it look like childs play :)

I personally think you went the right direction with the front emblem (mine was faded when I got it and went ORIGINAL as well), but then again I'm OLD (SCHOOL!)...

Bob. :)

[BigTyla]

Bob got me thinking about tinting but IDK. The law in Cali says you can't have less than 70% on front windows. I suspect a lot of people violate that one. I think my son went to around 30% and he got flagged and had to remove it.

70%?!?! You'd think the greenies down there would promote darker tint for less a/c usage and hence less gas usage!

If you aren't allowed less than 70% I wouldn't tint at all. You can hardly notice a 70% tint.

I'm old school as well and approve of the stock red emblem. I've never been a fan of the chrome one to be honest.

[Jimvr4]

I personally think you went the right direction with the front emblem (mine was faded when I got it and went ORIGINAL as well), but then again I'm OLD

Bob. :)

Fixed :lo5l:


70%?!?! You'd think the greenies down there would promote darker tint for less a/c usage and hence less gas usage!

If you aren't allowed less than 70% I wouldn't tint at all. You can hardly notice a 70% tint.

I'm old school as well and approve of the stock red emblem. I've never been a fan of the chrome one to be honest.

Yeah, only the Q windows and the rear could be made dark and that would probably look pretty funny since the side windows are so big in comparison. I may still inquire as to what people around here think is a "safe" percentage on the front.

Forgot to mention Remote Top is operational once again and I don't mind telling how great that feels after having to fix the header latch and re-install all the weatherstrips not to mention the fact that my module broke during dissassembly when I remote controlled the top while the battery was being charged :rolleyes: and I had to fix it.

Somehow the body shop pulled off the old red emblem which I found in my center console but it was dinged up from 16 years of abuse so I put on a new one.

[dbest671]

Didn't know the chrome emblems were thicker than the originals. I went with the original also.

That sucks about the tinting, it sounds like the factory stuff if about as dark as you can get. You might be able to get away with something like 50% because Cali doesn't require you to have a sticker on the window. Here in TN, you have a sticker stating what the tint % is.

I likey the black out tails. And the super clean exhaust tips :)

Have you had the reproduction emblems painted yet? Had mine painted and they bubbled real bad, looks like crap and I'm pissed. My emblems has hives :(

[Jimvr4]

Yeah, not ruling out the tinting yet but I do want to make sure I would NOT have to rip it out. You're the first to notice the smoked tails. I was there when the shop did them to decide how dark to go. I smoked the edges of the center panel and the high stop light to match.

I bought one of the early repro from Frank that was already sanded and painted. I just need to glue them on which I'm a little nervous about doing. May want to ask Frank what kind of paint he used on that.

[dbest671]

Yeah, not ruling out the tinting yet but I do want to make sure I would NOT have to rip it out. You're the first to notice the smoked tails. I was there when the shop did them to decide how dark to go. I smoked the edges of the center panel and the high stop light to match.

I bought one of the early repro from Frank that was already sanded and painted. I just need to glue them on which I'm a little nervous about doing. May want to ask Frank what kind of paint he used on that.

My tails are super dark, but haven't gotten pulled over, yet *knocks on wood*.

The body shop had something made by 3m specifically for emblems. It was sort of like a double sided tape thing. The biggest PITA was cutting the excess off around the lettering. I can give them a call tomorrow to find out what the stuff was.

[Jimvr4]

Got the Spyder and VR4 emblems applied tonight. It was extremely tedious. I used the 3M emblem adhesive which is super sticky. You press the emblem onto the adhesive and then you lift it off, problem is extra adhesive sticks around the edges like spiderwebs and you have to use a straight pin to clean up the excess and prepare it for transfer. Once I had them ready to go on a homemade paper carrier I stuck them to the bumper and they would not lay flat enough. I ran inside and got a hairdryer to heat it up and soften the plastic enough to conform to the bumper. Worked out well but I did manage to nick up the emblem paint a little. I'll need to get Frank to tell me what to match it with. I'm happy though - the is the first time in 12 years I have had a script VR4 emblem on the bumper :)

[Jimvr4]

Finally gave the Spyder her first wash since the respray. Was nervous about water leaks especially around the header area but all is good!! I had the headlights clearcoated and polished this week too so they're as close to new as I can make them right now. One of them seems to have kind of a run on the inside so I *may* heat them up and disassemble to work on the inside. That's a future project though as I'm ready to close down my workbench after dedicating the last 8 weeks to the car. I went with a chrome diamond star which I think is 2003 Eclipse vintage. It's not as big as the ones on the newest Mitsubishis which is good. I still have the red plastic emblem but I don't think it looks too good with the smoked tails.

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2a800a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2aa00a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2ac00a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2ae00a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2b000a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2b200a80.jpg

http://jns.jimnshar.com/2b400a80.jpg

[dbest671]

Damn Jim, looks awesome. What the red wiring in front of the radiator? The chrome emblem looks good, now I wish I went that route.

What kind of "run" is inside the headlight? Is it water stains? If it is condensation build-up, check your bracket mounting point for hairline cracks (stress cracks). You wouldn't believe how many headlights I have received with broken mounting points. If there is no cracks, the glue probably needs to be replaced (I would suggest that anyway). I put some 3-5 gram silica packets in there for extra moisture control.

[Jimvr4]

The red wiring is to the siren for my APS-996 alarm. I should take a close up of the headlight so you can see what I'm talking about. I have some of those silica packets saved somewhere.

[dbest671]

^If you don't, you can PM me your address and I can mail you some. I buy them in bulk, seriously. I usually zip tie one around each of the headlight bulbs housing, but in non-robo modded headlights you can put them anywhere.

[OhioSpyderman]

Awesome project with FABULOUS results!!!!

Looking good friend :)

Bob.