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IronmanTT
05-26-2011, 08:54 AM
What does a stock oil pressure gauge read on a all stock TT? Mine is showing a constant 3 notches from the bottom. Seem kinda low but no lights cooling temp is running cool as well. Just need to confirm all is OK ... :rolleyes:

I'm meaning right at this mark...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e324/bqv/oil.jpg

TwIzTeD_3kGt
05-26-2011, 09:18 AM
A bit difficult to tell you it's safe since they're only notches. I can tell you mine used to hang out around there at warm-idle before I spun a bearing. After the rebuild it's above half at warm-idle.

Best to take the time to check it with a mechanical oil gauge, only have to do it once, but I would imagine it's just normal.

Keyan
05-26-2011, 09:30 AM
Warm idle mine hangs at 1 notch or half notch and it has for the 70000 miles I've owned it.

Every car is different.

[Droid X via Tapatalk]

DocWalt
05-26-2011, 11:34 AM
Mine would hang out at around 1.5 to 2 notches at warm-idle. While cruising at 2k RPM it would be around the big notch in the middle-ish. If I ever had it above that in revs I wasn't just cruising so I wasn't focusing on it, just glancing to make sure it hadn't dropped to the bottom.

DocHoliday
05-26-2011, 11:43 AM
I don't have a TT, but mine is always in the 3/4 range of the gauge.

Alan92RTTT
05-26-2011, 03:05 PM
Mine was 1-2 up from the bottom on warm idle.

It would bottom out on hot idle.

I Installed a cheap manual gauge. I get 12.5~ on warm idle. I do not trust the stock gauge.

http://mi3si.org/custom/images/IMG_3051.JPG

Polygon
05-26-2011, 09:50 PM
Mine was 1-2 up from the bottom on warm idle.

It would bottom out on hot idle.

I Installed a cheap manual gauge. I get 12.5~ on warm idle. I do not trust the stock gauge.

Mine is the same way. It doesn't quite bottom out, but close. I don't trust that ANY of the stock gauges are accurate. Especially the oil pressure and boost. First two gauges I would replace.

IcelandGTO
05-26-2011, 10:22 PM
this is my oil pressure while cruising.. I Never see the gauge show more then1/3
Its 1-2 up from the bottom on warm idle
While cruising at 3k RPM it would be around the big notch in the middle-ish

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/Hjalti_gto3/101_9347.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/Hjalti_gto3/101_9344.jpg

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/Hjalti_gto3/101_9343.jpg

IPD
05-26-2011, 11:21 PM
i've yet to hear of any 3/s with a stock (100% unmolested) oil pressure gauge that consistently ran "in the range" on the gauge during normal conditions. my car has never been above the 3rd-4th mark; either n/a or TT. seems rather useless as a range of indication--if you ask me.

i'm with polygon. stock boost & oil pressure gauges are SHIT. don't rely on them.

IcelandGTO
05-26-2011, 11:46 PM
.



http://www.3sgto.org/f2/low-oil-pressure-need-help-4706.html

IcelandGTO
05-26-2011, 11:53 PM
Does a thicker type of oil help with to get higher oil pressure? What thickness do you guys recommend?

I normaly use synthetic 10w-30.
thinking of switcing to 15W-50 oil. bad?

Polygon
05-27-2011, 12:04 AM
Does a thicker type of oil help with to get higher oil pressure? What thickness do you guys recommend?

I never saw an oil pressure difference between Mobil 1 15w50 and Royal Purple 10w30. However, the Red Line 10w40 that's in there now has slightly higher pressure at temperature. There are too many variables to say that the viscosity rating has no effect on oil pressure. However, I will say that I think that 15w50 is way too thick. I personally like 10w40.

R/T93
05-27-2011, 12:07 AM
Wow I get higher readings than any of you, cruising I am about 2:30, idle it is 2-4 ticks from the bottom, on both my cars. VR-4 idle is 1.5-1.6 BAR (22 psi)

As for thicker oil making more pressure, it does. However, the oil filter had a much greater effect on oil pressure for me. The K&N/Mobil 1 filters provided 4.0 BAR exactly at 2000 rpm, a stock Mitsu filter was around 3.6 BAR, the current WIX filter I have (its pretty big) I have about 3.3. The Wix filter has 1.5 BAR at idle, the others were always 1.6, warm.

My oil stays at the cold weight unless I am racing (thats the only time my oil gets to 100+ C), the pressure with the mobil 1/k&n filters will go up to 2.0 BAR, the wix and mitsu filter stay around 1.6 BAR. I am sure the Wix filter flows a lot more, that is the only reason there is a lower pressure at a given rpm.

IPD
05-27-2011, 12:25 AM
if you live in iceland; i would never run anything thicker than 10w30. period.

IcelandGTO
05-27-2011, 12:34 AM
if you live in iceland; i would never run anything thicker than 10w30. period.

i only drive it at summertime...it never gets cold here during the summer

IPD
05-27-2011, 12:51 AM
i only drive it at summertime...it never gets cold here during the summer

if you're not regularly seeing 90F+ degree outside temperatures, i wouldn't use a 40 weight. there's no need. seeing as how your average summer temps are usually <80F, i wouldn't worry about it.

either way though, you're not doing your car any favors by pouring thicker oil into it--just to raise the pressure indicator on the stock gauge. some pressure is good; but too much can mean that it's not flowing enough.

IcelandGTO
05-27-2011, 12:54 AM
does someone have experience with HAVOLINE PREMIUM 20W-50

IPD
05-27-2011, 12:59 AM
no, but i have used valvoline 20w50 in my car when it had the n/a engine in it. 20w is WAY, WAY too think of a cold weight for your car; given the climate you live in. perhaps if you lived in the topics (read: between cancer & capricorn) it might be a better bet. i would NOT use anything with a cold weight above 10w. period. not in iceland.

IcelandGTO
05-27-2011, 12:59 AM
if you're not regularly seeing 90F+ degree outside temperatures, i wouldn't use a 40 weight. there's no need. seeing as how your average summer temps are usually <80F, i wouldn't worry about it.

either way though, you're not doing your car any favors by pouring thicker oil into it--just to raise the pressure indicator on the stock gauge. some pressure is good; but too much can mean that it's not flowing enough.

90% of oil sold here is ( something /w40) must be a reason why

IPD
05-27-2011, 01:04 AM
90% of oil sold here is ( something /w40) must be a reason why

if it's a 0w40 or 10w40...it's probably fine. i think 40w is a little thick for a hot temp oil for your area, but it is a turbocharged engine with a notoriously hot engine bay--so it's your call.

cold temp, on the other hand, is not something to be taken lightly. i don't know what the precise temps are in your area, but if summer "warms up" somewhere between 10-15 celsius--i don't consider that warm enough to use a 20w or even a 15w cold. you will create premature wear on the engine; though to what extent i can't accurately judge.

IcelandGTO
05-27-2011, 01:13 AM
if it's a 0w40 or 10w40...it's probably fine. i think 40w is a little thick for a hot temp oil for your area, but it is a turbocharged engine with a notoriously hot engine bay--so it's your call.

cold temp, on the other hand, is not something to be taken lightly. i don't know what the precise temps are in your area, but if summer "warms up" somewhere between 10-15 celsius--i don't consider that warm enough to use a 20w or even a 15w cold. you will create premature wear on the engine; though to what extent i can't accurately judge.

okey i can go with it that over 10w is to high.
Im leaning towards MOBIL Super 3000 X1 5W-40

http://the-filtershop.eu/shop_ordered/4034/shop_pic/Mobil_Super_3000_X1_5W-40_1_L.jpg

IPD
05-27-2011, 01:21 AM
not as much of a fan of mobil1 as i used to be; but full synthetic is certainly good.

amsoil has 5w40 and 10w40 oils. shell rotella T6 5w40 oil is what i personally swear by. i would opt for either of those over mobil1--but again, unless you're demanding the absolute best & driving the piss out of it--you probably won't notice.

IcelandGTO
05-27-2011, 01:40 AM
Thanks for the help Thadd :)

IPD
05-27-2011, 02:10 AM
you're welcome!

IcelandGTO
05-27-2011, 02:17 AM
A bit difficult to tell you it's safe since they're only notches. I can tell you mine used to hang out around there at warm-idle before I spun a bearing. After the rebuild it's above half at warm-idle.

Best to take the time to check it with a mechanical oil gauge, only have to do it once, but I would imagine it's just normal.

How?
where?
help?

GTOJOE
05-27-2011, 10:53 AM
Mine always sits one line below the first major line. So 5 from the bottom.

aaronatstate
05-27-2011, 11:17 AM
if it's a 0w40 or 10w40...it's probably fine. i think 40w is a little thick for a hot temp oil for your area, but it is a turbocharged engine with a notoriously hot engine bay--so it's your call.

cold temp, on the other hand, is not something to be taken lightly. i don't know what the precise temps are in your area, but if summer "warms up" somewhere between 10-15 celsius--i don't consider that warm enough to use a 20w or even a 15w cold. you will create premature wear on the engine; though to what extent i can't accurately judge.

I run Redline 10w40 all year round. I have had zero issues running it. Temp ranges from 15 degrees to 115 degrees ambient.

DocWalt
05-27-2011, 12:52 PM
I always ran 10w30 all year, but I'd get some heat related pressure drop in the summer (90s) that was even noticeable on the stock gauge.

IPD
05-27-2011, 09:15 PM
I run Redline 10w40 all year round. I have had zero issues running it. Temp ranges from 15 degrees to 115 degrees ambient.

10w40 is fine. if you hit over 90's a lot--you should run a 40 weight hot oil for those months at a minimum. the problem is running a 15w or 20w cold weight at temperatures at or below zero.

Chris GTO TT
05-27-2011, 10:30 PM
10w40 or 5w40 are the only oils I'd run in a turbo car. 10w30 shears too fast and once is shears you are lacking protection in a motor that produces a lot of heat.

IPD
05-27-2011, 10:48 PM
10w40 or 5w40 are the only oils I'd run in a turbo car. 10w30 shears too fast and once is shears you are lacking protection in a motor that produces a lot of heat.

conventional 10w40's and 5w40's will also sheer. it's too great of a temperature split for conventional to handle. full synthetic only is what's needed. and i still love rotella t6.

Chris GTO TT
05-27-2011, 11:51 PM
Right all oil will shear even syns, which resist longer. The thing that makes a 10w40 or 5w40 such as the t6 better is when they shear they still protect longer since they will go from a 40 to a 30. Whereas the 30 will go down to a 20 fast. I would really stay away from M1 0w40 as bluemax saw massive shearing in less than 2000mi. He does track his car but still the M1 sheared way too fast.

NOMIEZVR4
04-07-2014, 10:32 AM
Old thread but with all the talk about oil pressure going on I thought i'd bump it up...

Mine with 10w40 with a Premium Guard PG193 filter at idle sits on/slightly above the big middle tick...so from the bottom about 6/7th mark..Oh yeah..the harness under the hood is still the original...I'm probably going to replace it though...its old and hard...

Cruising its at 2 o clock ish...I've never put a mechanical gauge on it, but I think I will just to see the numbers...gulp...:/

familyMAN
04-07-2014, 11:37 AM
Nomie, stock gauge is useless. Spend the $30-50 on a gauge. I have a cheap autometer that works great.

NOMIEZVR4
04-07-2014, 11:54 AM
yep...thats the plan for the upcoming weekend.