DIY AWS Delete from scratch!!!

[DrGonzo]

While in the process of restoring my Stealth TT I wanted to delete the AWS. The lines were really corroded and leaking. I am crediting Drweldin as he gave good directions on another forum as to how to do this.

After removing all of the AWS lines and pump from the rear frame I plugged the hole with a 1 9/16" Freeze plug. There are a few different types of freeze plugs. There are the metal ones that most people silicone in. I actually used an expandable plug as the freeze plug is just a little to small and the last thing I wanted to do was drop it into the read dif. The expandable plug seals and golds just great!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/images.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/images.jpg)

As for the Heim joints, I order all of my parts from Speedway Motors:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|9/14/2010%2010:24:11%20AM=heim&deptId=0

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0708.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0708.jpg)

Here is a list of parts needed:

(2) Swedged steel tube: #910-34258-7 (7 inches long, 5/8" threads)
(2) RH Rod Ends (1/2" holes): #175-0126
(2) LH Rod Ends (1/2" holes): #175-0326
(2) RH Chrome Jamb Nuts: #910-01006
(2) LH Chrome Jamb Nuts: #910-01106
(1) Aluminum spacers for rod ends (pk of 8): #546-4108

All parts came to like $94.0 shipped and they are top quality parts!

I reused the factory mounting points. Since the joint ends are 1/2 holes I used a 1/2 bolt on the control arm side as it is a straight hole to mount the joints too. No need for drilling or tapping out holes. The x-member side is a tapped 12mm hole. I used a 12mm grade 8 bolt to mount it on the x-member side. the 12mm bolt is a hair to small for the 1/2 joint hole. Once you use the aluminum washers and tighten it down there is no play in the joint whatsoever.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0709.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0709.jpg)

Now you will need to plug the front steering lines. The threads are BSP not NPT. You can order BSP plugs online but I have heard good things about people using NPT plugs and Teflon tape without having issues. Plugs are 1/4 in memory serves me correctly. I actually swapped out the front steering rack to an N/A rack. The only difference in the racks is the lack of rear steering lines and the N/A rack is geared differently so turning should be nice and crisp.

Weight savings with everything removed is about 30lbs.

Let me know if anyone have any questions!

[Dittmar]

nice write up! i really really need to do this to my car. when im taking a clover leaf off ramp the rear end feels really loose. i have no need for the aws and i could use the weight reduction!

[sbrunthaler]

The link to speedway motors does not work, sorry.

[DrGonzo]

Oops.... Link fixed :)

[92RT-TT]

nice writeup. If I build up another Vr4 I'll be deleting the rear steer that for sure!

[ViperZ]

Awesome, thanks for all the part numbers, I'm just getting ready to delete the AWS!

[Austin@STM]

Yup same thing as all the "kits" out there for a lot less $$$, thats how i did mine.

-Austin@STM

[DrGonzo]

The GTO MR doesn't use heim joints.

None of them do!

You use the Heim joints to lock the rear end straight after removing the rear steering. Or did I miss understand what you where saying?

[mh3kgt]

Thanks for the writeup man! I'll refer back to this if I ever decide to remove the AWS

[UTRacerX9]

You're using a FWD rack? How many turns does it have lock to lock vs the TT rack?

[DrGonzo]

You're using a FWD rack? How many turns does it have lock to lock vs the TT rack?

Not sure! I'll have to check it out tomorrow and I'll let you guys know!

Anyone know what the turns are for a TT?

[jba3]

Not sure! I'll have to check it out tomorrow and I'll let you guys know!

Anyone know what the turns are for a TT?

The 4WS is slightly faster lock to lock

4WS steering racks are 2.52
2WS steering racks are 2.80

[DrGonzo]

Cool thanks for the info!

Yeah definitely not something that is going to be extremely noticeable.

[mh3kgt]

Is this something that can be done at a home garage with floor jacks and jack stands? Or is it a lift only job? Gonna try to attempt it soon but I only have access to a buddie's garage and the shop lift is the drive on type :sad:

[DrGonzo]

I completed this job by myself out in my driveway with just standard tools. You will most likely need two jacks to help balance the rear subframe when installing it. It is really heaving and you cannot man-handle it into place. I spent the most time trying to get it mounted back into place as the four mounting holes/studs all pretty much have to line up together. If they are a little off they will bind and you won't be able to raise the rear subframe into place.

It is also best to leave the wheels on the subframe as it makes it easier to roll in and out. You will need to remove the driveshaft, exhaust, brake lines, Parking brake lines, and unplug the ABS sensors. The rest is just the PS lines. Now remember I did this on a stripped down car so a lot of things were already missing so just look around at everything and make nothing is still connected.

[YoshiBishi]

Is there a reason people delete their AWS? Mine seem to be working...

[DrGonzo]

Cause if it leaks or is broken it is a pain to fix and really expensive! Other do it for weight savings or auto-cross/racing reasons.

I deleted mine as I had the car apart anyway and didn't know if it worked or not. so I just removed it to save myself the pain of having to do it later on!

[YoshiBishi]

Ah okay, so I'll just leave it alone until it breaks then. I like having all my nifty tech stuff still working on my car (knocks on wood).

[jba3]

Is there a reason people delete their AWS? Mine seem to be working...

Less weight (30 lb reduction)
Less "stuff" to break
Not really needed - the 96 Stealth TT didn't come with it
Only functions over ?35? mph and some road racers/autocrossers find it more predictable to remove it

[mh3kgt]

Ya I'm mostly doing it for preventative maintenance so I don't have to worry about leaks later on, plus all the weight savings I can get is ok by me :thumbup:

[YoshiBishi]

Ah okay. My SL didn't have any nifty features, just a broken ECS... Now I got a VR4 with all the working bells and whistles, so I am hesitant to start deleting all of them. I still have my stock cat-back on for the active exhaust, even though my catless turboback doesn't seem to get muffled in tour mode at all :lol7:

I'll give it 2 weeks before I end up replacing my suspension once the ECS goes out, the rear spoiler when the active aero get stuck in the upright position, and my cat-back exhaust when it develops a leak.

[DrGonzo]

Once the MOD bug bites you will always have that itch...LOL

[mh3kgt]

I think I'm beginning to like deleting stuff as much as adding new mods :p

[HLxDrummer]

Do you happen to have the length of the bolt you need? I am ordering everything on that list, but that doesn't include the bolts, correct? Would I be better off ordering a 1/2" bolt since that is the actual size of the hole (instead of metric)? Then just need nuts and I'm ready to rock?

Just want to make sure, I'm stock piling parts to powdercoat the rear end, bushings, new suspension, AWS delete, control arms, etc. and want to have it all ready when I tear it down!

[nodoze]

pretty easy to do mod , i have done prolly about 8 of em now . all done in acouple hours in my garage with just a floor jack. well worth it imo .

[VR4Play]

Less weight (30 lb reduction)
Less "stuff" to break
Not really needed - the 96 Stealth TT didn't come with it
Only functions over ?35? mph and some road racers/autocrossers find it more predictable to remove it

My case. Was leaking badly. Always wanted to remove, so this was a good excuse to do it. Stick may be ultimately no different, but vehicle rotation in curves at speed is much, much better. And that would be expected given how the RWS is supposed to work. Love what it has done for response to steering wheel movements.

[i3igpete]

pretty easy to do mod , i have done prolly about 8 of em now . all done in acouple hours in my garage with just a floor jack. well worth it imo .

do you need two jacks to raise it up or does it balance with just one jack on the diff?

[HLxDrummer]

pretty easy to do mod , i have done prolly about 8 of em now . all done in acouple hours in my garage with just a floor jack. well worth it imo .

Really? Didn't have problems with stuck hardware/etc.? Did you remove the hardlines running to the front (forget if they are bolted down or not). I am putting on coilovers/control arms/tie rod ends/sway links and would like to do this at the same time so I only need one alignment, but this is my only car so if it is down for a while I am screwed.

[sublime_whatigo]

do you need two jacks to raise it up or does it balance with just one jack on the diff?

It balances perfectly on a standard 2-3ton jack head. Problem is most jacks are not long enough to get under the car to the diff. My jack is 40" long and works like a dream, I wheeled the whole assembly around my garage without a worry. Set a few 2x4's under the lower control arms and lower the jack, good to go.

[Rakuny]

even my $60 harbor freight jack had no problem using a 2x4 for extra height.. was able to balance the sub frame by myself for removal and re-installation.