View Full Version : DSM at dragstrip, trying for 10s, Take two
11secondFWD
04-09-2011, 09:03 PM
Well I just got back from another long day at the strip. 11-5pm. I got 9 runs in today and my goal was to finally break into the 10s. Well long story short is that I did not get it no matter how hard I tried. I cannot get an ounce bit more of power out of this car. I have the wastegate vacuum line pulled off, running 30+ psi and it is still the same. I can only launch at 12 psi or the tires go up in smoke. I am getting a 1.65 60ft almost everytime and I am very consistent but I cannot cut this last bit off. If I launch harder then I get no traction. If I had slicks I could launch at 30psi and get a great 60ft and have 10s no problem but a set of 4 are $937 without rims. So I am not doing that yet because of no funds. The track was prepped like crap or should I say not prepped at all. Next week I will be at norwalk and hopefully get better traction so I can hit 10s. The car is doing great and it has great consistency and showing no signs of problems.
I have 6 videos and my times went like this. Not in this order. So close, so many times but no cigar. I tried switching the launch up and it didnt matter. I changed tire pressure a lot and it helped but still not enough for 10s. I think I should start bracket racing. lol
11.20
11.18
11.14
11.13
11.12
11.08
Best slip (will be scanned later)
60ft 1.6452
330ft 4.6081
1/8 7.084@99.41
1000ft 9.241@111.98
1/4 11.0892@121.91
I weighed the car at the track too. These are race weights with gas.
2690 with driver
2515 without driver
11secondFWD
04-09-2011, 09:06 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0qj5nuyBdo&feature=channel_video_title
Here is my 11.08 video, check out my channel for the rest of them!
11secondFWD
04-09-2011, 09:07 PM
See above post.
11secondFWD
04-09-2011, 09:16 PM
I was disappointed because I didnt get a 10 but I did get 4 runs that were better than last week. ANd what is the difference in 0.08 sec really other than saying "I got a 10 sec car." I am still going to try and get 10s but I think I should be happy having a fast street car. A 10.99 and 11.08 is the same more less but I want that first number to say 10. lol
CoopKill
04-09-2011, 10:15 PM
Yank the damn seats and try again! lol
Still nice #'s
11secondFWD
04-09-2011, 10:29 PM
Well seats are gone, all I have is one race seat. Everything is completely gutted. I still have the dash, heat, center console, roll up windows and wipers. I do not have any carbon fiber or lexan. I also do not have light rims or slicks. If I got a cf hood, hatch, and doors, lexan windows, took the rest of the interior out, and got light rims and light slicks, I would be golden. I am 2525 without driver now so I could possibly be pretty light. Also, I could do a light driveshaft too. I just think I rather do more performance before any more weight reduction. ANd I dont want to cut into the car more than I have already.
But than at 10.99 you need a roll cage so I will be adding weight...
HellBringer
04-10-2011, 02:14 PM
Have you tried pushing the rear camber to zero or even positive (if adjustment will allow it) to compensate for the squat? When the car squats out of the hole you're getting a ton of negative camber and only riding on the inside 1/4 of the tire.
R/T93
04-10-2011, 03:25 PM
Front end raises, too, dial in some negative static camber.
11secondFWD
04-10-2011, 07:07 PM
Well everything on the car is 100% stock. Can I change that on the stock setup. The part of cars I know least about is the suspension/handling. I really dont know how to change it or if I even can. lol
R/T93
04-10-2011, 07:13 PM
Yeah you can, you can probably get a few degrees each direction with the factory settings.
On the front strut, loosen the lower bolt a little, and the top bolt loosen the nut slightly then turn the bolt, the cam on the golt head will push against a welded/formed tab on the strut housing that will change the camber of your front wheel, sitting in front of the whole hub assembly and turning the bolt you should be able to actually see the whole thing tilt a little bit.
Same for the rear, but its just a different arm, the adjustment is probably in towards the differential. Loosen the nut some, then turn the bolt, there is normally a few degrees of adjustment able to be had from the factory settings.
Just think about what is happening during launch and take Hellbringers advice for the rear, you might be able to gain a half a tenth on a 60' with the different alignment. Of course, you will probably gain 2 tenths with some decent tires but like you said thats 900 dollars. Adjusting these things shouldnt take an hour, plus its free :)
Hope this helps
I may be crazy, but what about a wheelie bar to keep the front tires on the ground? It will add some weight, but hopefully equal that out with traction. If it's homemade, it wouldn't be too expensive.
TUFFTR
04-10-2011, 09:56 PM
Just get some stiff as all hell rear springs made up. You'll hardly squat.
Ninja Performance
04-10-2011, 10:50 PM
For the money/mods you have in that, 11.08 is sweet. Nothing to be ashamed of for sure.
-Chris
11secondFWD
04-11-2011, 12:43 AM
Yea I am definitely happy with it Chris.
As far as this camber issue, I might need some pics. On the front are you talking about the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the hub? In the rear I am very unacquainted with any of the suspension back there. I have changed front struts enough to be familiar with them but not 100% sure on what to do. ANd the rear, I really dont know.
My wheels are 20lbs and tires are 22. If I had some light wheels with et drag slicks I think I could shave quite a bit off. Especially since at the moment I cant launch at more than 12psi without spinning bad. And I can get up to 25+ psi on the launch. So with traction and more psi at the launch I bet I could get a low 1.4 60ft and be in the 10s easy.
The back wheels are the ones that are breaking loose the most. I can feel them slip a lot. WIth more boost though, all 4 break loose. I would get coilovers but those are alot too. I am not into suspension so I dont know if they just sell springs for the rears that are real stiff for the dsm.
I plan to go again next weekend and hopefully I can beg and borrow some slicks.
Plus the lighter wheels and tires would save weight and rotational mass too. We will see and Ill let everyone know.
R/T93
04-11-2011, 01:48 AM
Yeah the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle, on the upper one the "bolt head" has a big washer face to it, its like an offset circle, if you turn it, it will push the strut out or in, depending on what way you turn it, just take a look, you will see.
On the rear there is an arm that bolts towards the inside of the car, towards the differential, the adjustment bolt goes through there.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/Ultor2/suspensionrearnew.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/Ultor2/Untitled-1.jpg
#3
http://beergarage.com/imgs/Suby/Camber/02.jpg
Hope this helps
wolf0573
04-11-2011, 02:35 AM
On a 1g dsm, the rear camber can be adjusted by the eccentric bolts mentioned. The front, however, has no factory adjustment points for camber. The front only has a toe adjustment. Bolts labeled two and three in the picture posted above are both regular bolts. If you want to adjust the camber up front, you will need to purchase some "camber bolts."
Congrats on the fast and consistent times.:bigthumb:
R/T93
04-11-2011, 11:45 AM
aw man thats crappy, how do they perform alignments then?
wolf0573
04-11-2011, 01:00 PM
The camber up front is fixed. So, when they align it, they only adjust the toe in/toe out up front. Pretty shitty idea on Mitsu's part. They just as easily could have put in an eccentric bolt on the bottom of the strut like they did on the 3/s. I guess chalk it up to being cheap cars.:eh:
There are aftermarket options to make the front adjustable. Eibach makes "camber bolts" for these cars. That's what I used on my laser when I lowered it. They're cheap. They work good. Plenty of adjustment even with my 2" of drop.:)
Chris@Rvengeperformance
04-11-2011, 03:07 PM
make sure you set your rear toe if you change the rear camber. The camber change effects toe a lot
wolf0573
04-11-2011, 03:34 PM
make sure you set your rear toe if you change the rear camber. The camber change effects toe a lotThis is true. It is common for the rear toe adjustment bolts to freeze up. I would suggest trying to turn them before getting an alignment.
11secondFWD
04-16-2011, 04:17 PM
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/1108.jpg
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